Quebec Paddlers Complete 1,500 km Canoe Trip


Sarah-Jeanne Giroux far north in Quebec

Six Canadians have completed their 1,500-kilometre canoe trip through northern Quebec and remote Labrador.

The trip was two years in the making and was called Expedition AKOR. The team included Philippe Poulin, Pier-Luc Morissette, Sarah-Jeanne Giroux, Guillaume Moreau, Nicolas Roulx and Charles Fortin.

On June 6, they left from the starting point in Schefferville, Quebec, a former iron ore town in interior Quebec.

They descended the De Pas and George Rivers to Ungava Bay before making their way up the Koroc River and through the Torngat mountains to the Labrador coast.

While in the Torngats, they climbed the 1,652-metre Mount d’Iberville, the highest point in Quebec/Labrador.

The video below shows what the coastline along the Torngat Mountains is like:

After their climb, Giroux and Poulin left the trip as planned and headed home.

From there, the others paddled another 500 kilometres south along the Atlantic Ocean.

On July 12, they finished the expedition in Nain, the northernmost town on the Labrador coast, after a 70-kilometre day of paddling in cold weather.

They updated their social media with, “Here’s a spot we’ve been looking forward to. After a 14-hour 70-kilometre push against winds and tides, our brave adventurers arrived at the final destination of a great expedition at 9 p.m.”

One of their biggest worries was that of polar bears, but over the entire trip they never saw any signs of them.

One of the goals of the trip was to collect wood samples to be tested at Laval University. In total, they collected 50 samples to hand over.

The team will now begin to get their gear ready for the trip home. For more photos and stories visit here.

Expedition AKOR on the coast of Labrador



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New Ontario Climbing Film About Lion’s Head and Sailing


Mike Smythe at Lion’s Head / watch trailer below

Shawn Robertson has produced a short film featuring Ontario climbers Mike Smythe, Mike Penney and Lucas Uchida climbing at Lion’s Head.

The film focuses on the lifestyle of the climbers as they depart from the marina, sail Smythe’s boat Camista to the rock and work on projects.

“Meet the Mikes in this short about Ontario rock climbers who are passionate about keeping the stoke high while climbing the 70-metre cliffs on Georgian Bay,” said Robertson about the film. “See how the Mikes decided to bring the community together and bring up-and-comers to the awe-inspiring cliffs at Lion’s Head Provincial Park.”

Camista Trailer:



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Full Latok I North Ridge May Still Be Unclimbed


Latok I North Ridge is one of the biggest objectives in the world of alpine climbing and nearly every online climbing news source reported yesterday that the ridge had been climbed.

But we might have all gotten it wrong, as we await for news from the team who reportedly climbed the ridge, we’ve heard rumours that they didn’t complete it in its entirety.

An Instagram post below noted that the team had climbed the peak from the north, but did not say the North Ridge.

From a reliable source close to the team of British climber Tom Livingstone and Slovenians Luka Strazar and Ales Cesen, their seven day climb did not go directly up the North Ridge.

Instead, the three top climbers traversed from two-thirds of the way up and deviated towards the col between Latok I and Latok II. From their, they continued up the south side to the summit.

This means the team is still the second to reach the top after the 1979 ascent by six Japanese climbers and they did climb a new route.

However, the full North Ridge of Latok I remains unclimbed to the summit.

Also of note is that Russian climbers Sergey Glazunov and Alex Gukov might have reached the top of the North Ridge and stood on the lower summit tower, so not the true summit but possibly at the top of the North Ridge.

Glazunov died on the way down and Gukov was stranded until a helicopter rescue many days later.

In conclusion, it looks like there’s a lot of facts that still need to be sorted out. Here are stories by other climbing media about the ascent:

Rock and Ice: Latok I Finally Climbed By North Ridge

Outside Online: Climbers Have Finally Conquered Latok’s North Ridge

Planet Mountain: Latok I North Ridge finally climbed after 40 years by Aleš Česen, Luka Stražar, Tom Livingstone

UK Climbing: Latok I North Ridge line by Livingstone, Česen and Strazar.

In 1978, an American team consisting of Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy, George Lowe and Jeff Lowe almost reached the top, but had to descend. In a story for the American Alpine Journal, Michael Kennedy wrote, “Jeff had been somewhat sick since we had arrived at the snow cave and the summit try had really put him under. He became very ill, so ill that we feared for his life. Almost out of food and fuel in the continuing storm, we knew that we would have to spend one, or perhaps two nights out in the open on the descent. Could Jeff survive it?”

Below is a potential line taken by Livingstone, Strazar and Cesen based on the reports.

Latok I 2018 possible ascent line Photo Guide Bormio

While the facts are still being sorted out, a team including Thomas Huber is currently heading to Latok I.

He and his team have not said what line they will attempt, but it sounds like the North Ridge and/or north face are possible objectives.



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Watch Comp Champion’s Fingerboard Training Routine


Ned Fehally has been British Bouldering Champion twice and is also the co-owner of Beastmaker who make some of the coolest training aids available.

So when he tells you about training it’s well worth a listen and this video contains a sort of ‘how to’ for those who haven’t used a fingerboard before.



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Fourth for Indiana Chapman at Youth Boulder Worlds


Ontario climber Indiana Chapman has missed the podium by one spot for the second year in a row, this time in Female Youth B Boulder at the Youth World Championships in Moscow, Russia.

Chapman headed into Finals in fourth place after topping three problems in Semis and two in Qualifications. Click below to watch.

Fellow Ontario climber Zach Richardson finished in sixth place during Finals in Male Youth A Boulder in Russia, which was his first time ever reaching Finals on the world stage. See here for more.

In 2017, Chapman went into Finals in third place and finished in fourth after she flashed the first boulder.

On the second boulder, Chapman made it to the bonus but couldn’t top it. The third boulder had a massive first-move dyno that shut everyone down but one. The fourth boulder has big dynamic moves which prevented Chapman from reaching the Bonus.

This year, Chapman faced off against Natsuki Tanti and Hana Kudo from Japan, Elena Matiak-Iabluchkina from Russia, Naile Meignan from France and YueTong Zhang from China.

She topped one boulder in good style and managed to advance through enough zones to finish ahead of Zhang and Matiak-Iabluchkina.

An awesome effort by Chapman who continues to climb strong on the international level.

Finals Results
1. Natsuki Tani (Japan)
2. Naile Meignan (France)
3. Hana Kudo (Japan)
4. Indiana Chapman (Canada)
5. YueTong Zhang (China)
6. Elan Matiak-Iabluchkina (Russia)

Watch Finals:



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Rober Rodrigo survives a helicopter accident in Tajikistan


IN THESE MOMENTS HE IS IN THE ICU

        

The Basque mountaineer Rober Rodrigo has survived the accident of the
helicopter in which he descended to the base camp after getting the top of the
 Ismail Samani, former Communism Peak, in the Republic of Tajikistan.
He is currently in the military hospital of Dusamb
admitted to the ICU.

        

Darío Rodríguez / DESNIVEL
– Tuesday, August 14, 2018 – Updated at 2:13 PM

                

                
                

 

                     Roberto Rodrigo and Isabel García in the base camp of Everest-Lhotse 2011.

Roberto Rodrigo and Isabel García in the base camp of Everest-Lhotse 2011. (© Darío Rodríguez 2011)

    

 
        
        

The Basque mountaineer Rober Rodrigo (Barakaldo,
 1969) has been
rescued alive from a helicopter accident in Tajikistan
,
 in Central Asia, in which five people have died.

We have spoken with your partner, Isabel García, who is very
affected He told us that he does not know anything about the real state in which
Rober finds, only that he is in the ICU. Tomorrow he goes on a trip to Tajikistan to meet him.

The helicopter, a Mi-8 had to perform a forced landing to 4,200
 meters of altitude
. On board were 16 people, including 13 passengers and three crew members. Three Russian mountaineers have died (Timur Barabanov -32 years old, Alexander Abrosimov -47-, and Ruslan Tarakanov -42-) and two crewmen (everything indicates that the pilots).

The accident took place on Sunday, August 12 about 2.30 pm
hour (Moscow time) when I returned to the camp located in the glacier
 Fortambek
. The climbers who traveled in the apparatus had made top in the peak Ismail Samani (7,495 meters), in the Pamir mountain range. According to the testimony of the mechanic "the cause
of the accident could be the strong wind and poor visibility "
. The rescue was made yesterday, August 13. The Russian news agency Ria.ru reports that the injured climbers made fire with their belongings to indicate to the rescue helicopters the best place to land.

Rober Rodrigo is a great passionate mountain who had lost 18 fingers in the 2011 Lhotse ascent with his partner Isabel García. In addition to many other peaks he had ascended to Broad Peak (2006) and Shisha Pangma (2010).

Despite amputations Rober continues to make mountains, practically always with his inseparable Isa. In 2012 he travels to New Zealand, in 2013 to Alaska where he ascends to Mckinley or Denali (6,194 m.), They will also travel to Turkey. In 2014 to Salta (Argentina) where ascends several volcanoes of up to 6,739 m. In 2015, the expedition went to the Indian Himalayas al Num (7,135 m.). In 2016 to Ethiopia where the most famous and highest mountain in the country rises (the Ras Dhasen of 4.625m.) His great dream at this time was to complete the Leopard of the Snows which he has achieved with Ascension just made of Ismail
Samani, ancient Communism Peak
.

In his blog he transmits his illusions after the amputations: " Although life changed me and a lot, life also gave me a great dose of effort, a new impetus of perseverance, a renewed tenacity and a new dimension of suffering and above all he gave me great friends, those who were and those who arrived. So I have managed to find that place in the world where I am very happy doing what I can and what I like: to enjoy life day by day, minute by minute "

                



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Denis Urubko and Pipi Cardell open "Matsoni" a new route in the northwest of Ushba. Unevenness


Darío Rodríguez / DESNIVEL
– Tuesday, August 14, 2018 – Updated at 11:15 am

This morning we talked with them and they told us how the climb was, really epic, because the bad weather reached them in the last longs and during the whole descent, which they made surrounded by the storm, with rays falling very close feeling the whole environment charged with electricity.

The ascent was carried out between August 6 and 8, on the 9th they used it in the descent . A descent that also gave emotion the poor condition of the ropes, destroyed by the abrasive granite of this mountain. Since v twenty-five years no new route in the Ushba was opened.

Days before, they climbed the road Gabriel Khergiani on the south face and Pipi he suffered the fall of a stone that left his ribs very sore he thinks he may have a fissure or a break in the cartilage that joins the rib . Despite this, he did not hesitate to accompany Denis on the new route they wanted to open. "I did not want to break Denis' dream and I agreed with him that if he could not continue we would go down. Finally I lasted up to two lengths before the top. The descent cost me, but nothing to do. "

The new route takes place in the
northwest slope and leads to the southern summit of Ushba (4,710 m.), In the mountains of Caucasus,
Georgia
. They have called it "Matsoni", it has 47 long, 1,600 meters of
vertical route on ice and mixed
(plus 400 meters of crossing) and
a difficulty of VII ED WI.3 – on the Russian scale its degree is 5B-). Han
two bivouacs on the way up, and one very hard -for the storm- in the
 decline.
They went up without a tent, only with the advance, a light sack and a
 mat

The name, "Matsoni", they have put it because that's what Georgian yogurt is called, and the conditions they found on the route reminded them.

The year past Denis and Pipi opened a route in the south of Pik Chapaev (6,372m.), Kyrgyzstan which they christened " Shashka" (2,000m, IV / 4 M4 90 °) that was selected for the Golden Piolets 2018 but ultimately did not win.

"Bad weather caught us up, getting into the whole mess, and we had to keep going up"

This is the conversation that we had this morning with Pipi, in which Denis also participated, with whom we also spoke at the end of the interview. It is the best way to know how this ascension has been in style "Denis Urubko": without water during the day (Denis keeps his theory about it, which he tells us in the interview), with very little food, filing the ice axes and crampons at meetings, using a peculiar Russian technique of ice climbing …

Pipi …. Where has Denis got you?
Haha! Go dario Darío, cloth. It has been very hard due to the conditions, we have caught a good day and the rest bad. In fact we have found people who had not been able to do anything. To us the bad weather caught us up, getting into all the fregao. And we had to keep going up.

Did you miss the weather forecast?
We knew that bad weather was coming but not so much. The forecast has not been entirely successful and caught us. We could also have gone down but decided to keep going up.

"Denis came up with the file in his pocket and was constantly sharpening ice axes and crampons"

How is the road you have opened?
It is on the northwest slope. We started to climb the glacier, but it looked very dangerous, so when we arrived at the rimaya, we decided to go to the right, to the rock, and from there they left fifteen longs until we reached the snow.
The first bivouac we did shortly before the snow. Denis chose a perfect site. We went without a tent, with the advance, that we stuck to the rock and thus we protected ourselves. We also had a light sack and a mat. As I was saying, he chose an incredible site, a very small rock ledge, under which we both went because the stone falls were impressive. In fact, one broke right over the rock that protected us. I have not been more scared in my life. All night were falling stones and more stones.
When we woke up at dawn to continue, we saw that this was a suicide and we decided to wait until dawn to get off. We were clear that if a stone came we would not see it, it was very dangerous.
We waited until five o'clock, at dawn, to go down. At that moment we saw that less stones fell due to the cold of the night; it was a good day, so we said: "We throw up, although it's late is a good time" . From there we made a half longer and reached the snow. We continue climbing through the snow and then Denis "plugged in" climbing on ice of poor quality. He climbed with the file in his pocket and was constantly sharpening ice axes and crampons.
( At this moment of the conversation Pipi asks Denis what is his opinion on that section ) " He says that for him were the normal conditions of a summer ice, with many stones and dust. "

"Denis uses a Russian technique to climb on ice"

Sharpening ice axes and crampons at meetings?
Yes, he took out the file and did it. He has come up with an ice ax he has designed with Camp. Take some special sheets. Use your own technique to climb on ice. Use a flat ribbon that goes from the feet to the ice axes. This way it makes more force with the feet than with the arms, it is doing pressure with the feet and as they are tied with the tape to the ice ax the blade is nailed with an impressive force, super aggressive.

Is it like a kind of stirrup that hangs on the ice ax?
Yes, exact.

What are the advantages of this technique?
Advances faster and tires less. Save energy in the arms. He goes nailing the crampons and then, when he presses with the feet, the ice ax is stuck in the ice. Denis says it is a technique he has used all his life in Russia. He tried to see how it worked with that ice and it was great.

You told me you were already on the ice slope …
Yes. Sometimes they fell some impressive pedrolos but we were avoiding them. Denis is a beast on the mountain, the way he moves, the way he is oriented, the way he decides, … it's incredible.
The second bivouac was made in a crevice, in a rimaya located before the last slope. There we also protected ourselves, because we were under a huge serac, and that night the storm began. It began to snow and impressive rays fell . We decided that it was safer to continue, because from the serac we were thirteen long from the pass that was already facing the last rocky ridge before the ancima. Snow avalanches fell on both sides . Denis went through the middle of where the avalanches fell, but sometimes they also fell on us. At the same time there was an impressive snowfall, with lots of blizzard. Sometimes he had an avalanche and he had to be careful because he was unbalanced. It was epic.
He started to improve time a little; When we reached the hill, it had stopped snowing. From the hill to the top there were five long rocks. The first was mixed, Denis did it, and then I was first on the rock. We scale a length of 6b. We were exhausted, very tired.

"We went up Denis style: without water to drink, eating very little and without stopping all day"

They were many hours of daily activity. The one that less 12 hours, the one that more than 20 of not stopping, style Denis, of eating very little and not drinking. We were already exhausted; Those five long rocks were complicated. I felt good but the final edge was made by Denis because in the way we did before, in the south, the Gabriel Khergiani, which is the classic, I dropped a stone and went with a rib touched. I do not know if I have a fissure. I climbed first the rock lengths to the most difficult, but in the 6b I was hit another rib on the rib and Denis continued to the top by the edge. We reached the top at nine o'clock at night, but there was fog and it was still snowing at times. A cold and wind tremendous.

(Denis is heard saying Happiness!) "Yes, Denis says what happiness. He has plenty of energy Hahaha! "

My mother, it was nine o'clock at night and it was super dark. We started to descend following the route we knew of the other route we had made on the south side. The good thing was that: we knew the descent. Although in the dark it was very difficult to find the route. We stop going down about 4,500 meters. Again storm and snow. Mogollón wind, we saw nothing with the fog, the rays fell super close and we thought we had to stop anywhere.

We settled in a very precarious place we covered ourselves with the advance of the store, we put the mat and we could not even put it in the bag. This is how we spent six hours of true Calvary covered in snow, shivering and holding each other. As we saw that the weather did not improve, we told ourselves that we either left or stayed there. And in the middle of the snowfall we picked up everything and started rappelling.

Denis went first, between the two of us trying to remember the descent, where the meetings were, but with the fog it was very complicated. Rays fell to the side. We looked like crazy going down like this but we had to get out of there as it was. Everything was electrified. We went down little by little and decided that even if we had to throw the next 24 hours we could not stop because we were soaked and exhausted. We could not spend another night like that because the sack was wet. You had to get there as it was.

We threw ourselves twenty-odd hours. There came a time that we were going very fast. The truth is that f we united super synchronized doing the maneuvers. All very well, very correct and we had no problems. The only thing: the cold, the lack of visibility and the snow, but we did not stop. As automatons down and we arrive at 10 pm to the moraine. We pack all, we take off the crampons and already to the town (Mazeri).

We arrived at the hostel where we are now at 02.30 in the morning. A little odyssey everything. Stunning exhaustion.

How many days of activity have you been?
Three days going up, on the third we made the top and part of the descent, and the fourth, on the 9th, the rest of the descent .

Denis: "I dreamed of climbing this mountain for more than twenty years"

Have there been many rappels of descent?
To the rise 48 long and 1,600 meters, and to descend a non-stop of rappels. There were times when we went together, by easier way, by detouring, until we rehooked the rappels. From the top it was mostly mixed and then, the last part before reaching the Morrena, descending by some ice slope. To me I thought it was a very technical mountain . You have to control everything very well, I tell you about the routes we have climbed, as there are other routes that are more compact.
Incidentally, the translation of Ushba is "witches' party."

How is the Ushba?
(You hear Denis say something to Pipi) "Denis says he dreamed of climbing this mountain for about twenty years. And that thank God has had this wonderful Andalusian companion. "

Now it is Denis who gets on the phone to tell us :
For us this ascent with this bad weather is a super good training for Cerro Torre and the G2 which are our projects next year.
It was very important to check the condition of the ice, the falls of stones, etc. The seracs were very dangerous and the weather forecast was very bad. The first night we talked and decided to continue.

Denis re-passes the phone to Pipi ….
As far as I'm concerned you have been a totally epic ascension
Denis says that about 25 years ago nobody opened a new path in the Ushba, variants had been opened, but a new path was not.
The beginning, the whole stretch of rock of the first part we enjoyed. It's granite; We did it very well because before coming, in Italy, we climbed a lot in granite areas, which has been very good training for climbing here.
We started the ascent by that rock wall. It is true that it took us much longer than we thought and we made good progress but with care. The first day we did not reach the goal we had set, but we were happy, we had done everything correctly. We had no reference to the rock area. So between the two we analyzed where to go up. We were super according to the line we had to follow. The first bivouac we did was on the ledge that told you. Apart from the rock fall, the weather was good, we were not cold and there was a beautiful sunset. We had doubts, in the early morning, when we thought about getting down because it was playing without any sense.
But when they stopped falling stones was good weather. We said "let's see if we can get to the top, even if it's time to get off in bad weather we know the descent"
The granite is so sharp that the descent was done with the strings destroyed. I thought that at any moment one of us was going down.

"I wore tight-fitting cat feet, no socks, and my feet did not feel them, but we gave it our all"

And, in addition, you did the descent with the storm …
The storm caught us going up. When it started to get very bad it was five in the afternoon, and we had to stop because from there up we did not have a place to bivouac. We stopped below the serac. Actually what we had was a shovel with a lot of ice slope to the hill and then the final edge, which we thought would be easier. But do not see the long little ones! I wore tight-fitting cat feet, no socks, and my feet did not feel them, but we gave it our all. In the snow shovel we got a brown : avalanches and snow falls fell …

Did you keep going up despite the avalanches?
Yes . Going down there was crazy, because even to reach the serac and the rimaya we made a rappel passing some cracks that you can not see. It was much worse to go down.

So high did you use cat feet?
Yes, on the edge we climbed a length of 6b. A super fine journey with some steps collapsed. If there had been enough crack to do it in artificial, I would have done it with boots, but there came a time when I had to turn aside and make a crossing because there was a place where it could not be progressed or artificial. He had it very clear: with the foot of a cat.

It's been a great adventure you've lived.
A lot, a lot. We talked about it and we said: "This climb in good weather would be very different" nothing to do with the conditions in which we have climbed in the final part and in the descent The mountain in bad weather is a completely different world.

It seems that the most dangerous thing has been the descent, right? With the storm …
On the climb there have been stretches with very dangerous moments due to falling stones Then, up to the hill, it was very dangerous because of the avalanches and the storm that we had there too, La down was very hard also because of the storm and the constant snowfall, we did not see anything. in which we have done it has been very hard. We are both super skinny the harness was falling, Denis was always tying the buckles on his legs because they were getting big.
It's been an incredible adventure [1945900] 7]already this mountain is demanding. I was surprised on the route we took on the south side, the Gabriel Khergiani. It is a way that easily has nothing.

"We drank at the bivouac and before leaving, but not during the climb, we have not brought water any day."

Incredible that you would notice the weight you were losing …
Yes, we have not stopped. Denis also says that you have to eat little or nothing when you are doing activity and drinking the same (to save weight and gain time).
In twelve hours we ate a little, at the beginning and then on arrival. We used to put a nut in our mouths, but in twenty hours we would eat once or twice, and drink nothing. We left without water. We drank at the bivouac and before leaving, but not during the climb, we have not brought water any day. On the way down we were going to suck the stones. On the rise, if we saw trickles that fell, too, but once we reached the snow no longer. Only when we stopped.

What to go without water why? In the bivouac you could fill the canteen and bring water for the day …
We did not even have a bottle. We took the kitchen to melt water when we stopped …

Denis and the canteens are scolded, they are incompatible …
On the road Gabriel Khergiani yes I took it. In the meetings I was drinking a few drops, but not here. We went with the super told weight, we had some backpacks, especially Denis, who came with a superhuman backpack. I also carried a lot of weight for my height, but less than him.

On the descent, when there was already vegetation, we found some bushes with red fruits, similar to blueberries. We almost did not take them by hand, directly from the branch to the mouth to refresh ourselves, to drink something, because in the end we ran out of food. The descent was whole without food, already to zero.

In the hostel it is amazing how they have looked after us all the time. L we arrived at two thirty in the morning and they were very worried. They all got up; the grandfather, the aunt, the lady of the house … They immediately brought us dry clothes, slippers, socks and they started to prepare hot food and drink for us. The people of Georgia have behaved well with us. They have been incredibly kind, loving and attentive. We are very happy.

"There comes a time when tiredness makes you hesitate in very simple maneuvers, in an absurd way"

What has this ascension represented for you?
After the road we opened last year in Pik Chapaev, I told myself that I was not going to live something harder or harder but Denis I played it again Hahaha!
This way is much more technical than the one we open to Pik Chapaev [“Saber” -2.000m, IV/4 M4 90°-]. That was tough because of the cold and the height, but this has been very technical, has required a lot of concentration to not have a single failure .

At each step we had to have a lot of control, There was a brutal tension. There comes a time when fatigue makes you hesitate in very simple maneuvers, in an absurd way. Doubts, for example, of if you are having a good time with the descender. You have to be on a constant alert because it is very easy to have a flaw in any nonsense that can cost you super expensive. For me it has been a brutal learning.

Have you crossed a barrier that you did not know?
I could not imagine how much my body could hold and function.

The descent that has been as risky as in the Pik Chapaev?
No, because as we decided not to go down the same way, which was very dangerous, we went down the face south, and the south face is not ice like the route we have climbed. It's all rock, and there were pythons, pieces of rope passed through rock. A normal descent until reaching the final stretch; before reaching the moraine, we had to descend 400 meters of snow, but we did it without doing rappels. We destrepamos the two strung descending face to the wall.

Denis Urubko: "It's one of the climbs that has consumed me the most energy"

We asked Denis, who has followed the conversation on several occasions, to get on the phone to get his impressions.

Denis, what has been you are climbing?
I am very happy to team up with Maria, who reacts in a way very similar to me and with whom I share the same emotions. He is very brave and I am very happy about it. For me it is very good and important to have climbed this mountain for the second time because I am looking for the happiness of my companion and I see that it goes in parallel with achieving many other things.

Has been one of your climbs more difficult?
I can not tell you if it is one of the most difficult but one of those that have demanded more energy. In three days we have consumed a lot of energy.

How is this mountain?
It was explored 200 years ago by German mountaineers. It is the great symbol of the Caucasus mountains. In Georgia they say that even if you climb Everest, if you do not climb the Ushba, you are not a mountain climber. Because the Ushba is the most important mountain for the Georgians.

I thought it was strange the technique you use to climb with the crampon and the ice ax.
It's not strange, in Russia It is very used.

Why does that style of yours go without water?
It's not my style, it's normal because that way you carry less weight and spend less time and gas in boiling the Water.

What's your next project?
We plan to go climbing to Patagonia in December and January.

                



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Watch Sasha DiGiulian High on Shining Uncut 5.14


Sasha DiGiulian on The Shining Uncut 5.14 Photo Peter Hoang

Sasha DiGiulian recently climbed The Shining Uncut on the east face of Mount Louis in Banff National Park.

The big 5.14 is a link-up of the pitches of The Shining 5.13c, which Sonnie Trotter first climbed wit Tommy Caldwell five years ago.

He climbed his uncut version last year when hooking up Castles in the Sky 5.14, The Shining Uncut 5.14 and Blue Jeans Direct 5.14 in a season for a big wall-style 5.14 Rockies trilogy.

DiGiulian made the second ascent of The Shining Uncut and the below video was taken by Peter Hoang of her on the 80-metre 5.14 cruz pitch.

Despite being a sport route, the bolts are spaced out and the climbing is heady on Mount Louis’ only 5.14. The rope drag is intense so DiGiulian utilized a two-rope system.

DiGiulian now only has to climb Blue Jeans Direct on Yamnuska, a seven-pitch 5.14 first sent by Trotter two years ago.

Watch DiGiulian on The Shining Unct:



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Watch a Send of Tiger Woods Stand V5 in California


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History Made as the North Ridge of Latok I is Climbed


Latok I North Ridge Photo Wikicommons

The first ascent of the North Ridge of Latok I has finally been made after decades of the world’s top climbers attempting it.

The 7,145-metre peak’s massive ridge had reached a mythical status as over 30 teams composed of the best climbers hadn’t been able to reach the top.

The three climbers to reach the summit were British climber Tom Livingstone and Slovenians Luka Strazar and Ales Cesen who spent seven days to reach the top of the ridge and the summit via the West Col.

The first attempt on the North Ridge was in 1978 by Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy, George Lowe and Jeff Lowe. They made it within a few pitches of the summit before Jeff became sick and they had to make over 100 rappels.

Camp/Cassin broke the news on Facebook on Aug. 12 with a message here that read: Amazing news from Karakoram! After dozens of attempts since 1978, the “impossible” Latok I (7,145 m) was finally climbed from north by our Luka Stražar together with Aleš Česen and Tom Livingstone! We congratulate Luka and mates for this huge, astonishing achievement about which we still have little information. Alpinists will come back in Slovenia the next week: stay tuned for details and images!

The first ascent of Latok I was in 1979 by a team of six Japanese climbers who started on the Baintha Lukpar Glacier and ended on the top of the east ridge.

A few weeks ago, Sergey Glazunov fell to his death while attempting the first ascent with partner Alex Gukov. They made it to nearly 7,000 metres before the accident. Gukov waited on a small ledge for days until a helicopter rescued him.

Livingstone, Strazar and Cesen have all visited the Canadian Rockies over the past few years. Livingstone managed to make the third ascent of The House/Anderson VI M7+ WI5 with Uisdean Hawthorn. Strazar and Cesen visited during the ice season and climbed many of the grade-six lines.

This was Livingstone’s first trip to the Himalayas.

There will be more photos, videos and stories about this historical first ascent of one of the greatest alpine objectives of the past century over the next few weeks. Stay tuned.



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