Jim Morrison and Hilaree Nelson descend skiing from the summit of Lhotse



The two Americans have made the
first descent on skis from 8,516 m from the fourth summit of the planet.
They have toured the Lhotse Couloir and have managed to reach the C2 (6,400 m),
where they have rested from the effort.


– Monday, October 1, 2018 – Updated at 12: 18h.




                     Lhotse Expedition on Skis, by Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison

Expedition Lhotse on skis, by Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison (Photo: Dutch Simpson / Nico Kalisz)



American climbers and skiers Jim Morrison and
Hilaree Nelson
have fulfilled their goal to ascend the Lhotse (8,516 m) and get off
skiing from the top along the route known as Dream Line which runs through Lhotse Couloir . They have descended on
tables about 2,100 meters of altitude up to C2 (6,400 m), where they have stopped
to rest after 17 hours of effort.

Perfect timing

The agency Xtreme Climbers Treks & Expeditions gave the
first good news about the attempt yesterday Sunday September 30 to
noon (Spanish time). By then, he already reported that his four American clients
( Hilaree Nelson, Jim Morrison, Nicholas John and Dutch Simptson ) and three Sherpa guides
( Ila Nuru, Fu Tashi and Urken Lendu ) had summited in the Lhotse towards the
13:30 in the afternoon (local time), "in perfect weather conditions" .

Next, and while the rest of the expedition members
they undertook the way of return to the inferior fields of conventional form,
Jim Morrison and Hilaree Nelson put on the boards to continue with their
challenge to go down the mountain skiing.

More than 2,000 meters
of descent

As confirmed by the sponsor of the two skiers,
Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison have made the planned descent through the
Lhotse Couloir, by the route known as Dream
. Both have traveled one of the most coveted lines by
Extreme skiers from the Himalayas and have reached the C2 (6,400 m), located
in the Valley of Silence, just before the Khumbu Icefall.

In this way, they have saved about 2,100 meters of unevenness
after a descent that has been: "A madness. Terrible, good, bad, really
bad and incredible "
as revealed by Adrian Ballinger about the message that
his friend Jim Morrison has sent him after completing the task that had initially
thought to do together.

An unprecedented achievement

So far, nobody had come down skiing from the top of the
. And not for lack of attempts. The closest he had stayed was the
also American Jamie Laidlaw who in 2007 managed to make a
descent on skis from 8,300 meters to the C2.

This same autumn, two other expeditions have as their
objective the descent of two eight-thousanders on skis. The Russians Anton
Pugovkin and Vitaly Lazo
in the Annapurna and the Russian-German duo formed by Sergey
Baranov and Herbert Hellmuth
in the Dhaulagiri .

Jim Morrison and Hilaree Nelson
they ski down from the top of the Lhotse


How to ski safely off the slopes


Free Ride

How to safely ski off-piste

by Jimmy Odén

This is first and foremost a safety manual, which will allow us to reduce the risks when skiing off the slopes.


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Adam Ondra equips and chains Highline 9a + / b in Bosnia



The Czech climber has been leaving for a week
his footprint in the Balkans. He had previously signed the first Bosnian ninth with Interklemezzo 9a; and then solve to
view Spomin (9 lengths, 8c) in
Paklenica (Croatia).


– Monday, October 1, 2018 – Updated at 11: 08h




                     Adam Ondra in 'Highline' 9a + / b from Bosnia

Adam Ondra in 'Highline' 9a + / b of Bosnia (Photo: Jan Simanek)



Once the World Climbing Championships have finished
Innsbruck, Adam Ondra set sail for the Balkans, to participate in the Drill
& Chill Festival, held in Bosnia and dedicated to climbers and
highline practitioners. He arrived a week ago, and has not stopped climbing and chaining
several interesting projects.

First 9th of Bosnia

The first was Interklemezzo ,
which became the first ninth-degree road in Bosnia. Adam himself explained
in their social networks that "even though the conditions were quite
hot and humid, I made the first ascent "
of a road whose name is a
tribute to Klem Lostok and his famous Intermezzo
9a (Plomberg, Austria, 1997). Precisely, it was equipped by an Austrian scaler
and it has been the instrument used by Adam Ondra to make the maximum jump
in Bosnia directly from 8a + to 9a.

Highline 9a + / b

Next, the Czech climber counted that there was
dedicated a couple of days to equip and clean a five star line in the
left part of Amfiteatar sector of Kanjon Tijesno . "It's true
time since I equated a big line and I really enjoyed the process .
The curiosity of if the line is going to work, how the movements are going to be …
Many factors of uncertainty, but that's what makes equipping so
exciting. There are 50 meters of hard climbing from the ground to the top . Come on
to see what tomorrow brings, "he wrote in his Instagram account.

Maybe it was not the next day, but five days later
those lines, reported on the successful resolution of the project. "In
our last day in Bosnia, I completed the first ascent of Highline 9a + hard or 9a + / b . One of the best
first ascents of my life
. The lower part is slightly collapsed,
with large movements over holes, the crux is in the middle, where
the wall becomes vertical, and then endless technical difficulties all the
path to the chain, on a vertical wall or slightly lying down. He took me two
days to equip it and two days of attempts
. "

8c of nine lengths, a

From Bosnia, he jumped to the neighbor Croatia and to his area more
Paklenica famous for its long sports tracks. There,
Adam Ondra did not take long to find a custom-made challenge with Spomin an ancient artificial climbing route created by the mythical
Silvo Karo and recently released by Luka Krajnc . There are nine longs in total,
which starts with two sixth-grade longs, continues with four runs of
eighth (L3 8a +, L4 8c, L5 8b +, L6 8a +) and a 7b + before ending with an easy

"The road is huge, steep and absolutely disfrutona" ,
summarized Adam by reporting almost in passing that he was also very happy to have
bowed to the beast in sight.


Mental training for climbing


A mind in action

Mental training for climbing and other sports

by Grace Puertas; Josep Font

A mind in action is a practical approach to the psychology of human performance, more specifically in the sports field and with specific examples of climbing, although not only. This book allows us to get closer to the most practical and applied part of performance, with examples and practical guidelines that the reader will be able to carry out.


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Watch Seb Bouin on New 5.15a in Verdon

Seb Bouin on his new 5.15 / watch below

Seb Bouin bolted this amazing 60-metre prow in Verdon, France, when he was 16. Nine years later, he felt it was time to send and graded it 5.15a.

Bouin, who had climbed up to 5.15a in the past, made the first ascent of La Côte d’usure in the Ramilore Cave in mid-September.

“Yesterday I did the first ascent of my huge 60-metre prow in the middle of the Gorges du Verdon at La Ramirole,” said Bouin. “This route means a lot to me, even though my main goal was my project in Norway.

“I bolted this route nine years ago, when i was 16 years old… I suggest 9a+/5.15a for the grade, this means that it’s becoming the hardest route at La Ramirole.”

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Sean McColl Wows Crowd and Finishes Fifth, Kranj Results

Canadian Sean McColl, who has been competing on the international level for nearly 15 years, competed in his first lead final this season.

And he wowed the crowd with an eye-popping one-handed grab and finished in fifth place. Watch below.

Stefano Ghisolfi of Italy and Jain Kim of Korea returned to the top of the IFSC World Cup podium at the fifth Lead event of 2018 in Kranj, Slovenia.

Italy and Japan excelled in the men’s semifinal, each team sending three athletes to finals in Kranj, hosting lead World Cup events since 1996.

Big moves and an early nerve-testing jump opened the men’s final route, followed by a bat-hang at the route’s most over-hanging section as it curved across the short but challenging Lead wall.

Marcello Bombardi of Italy began the final by setting a formidable high point just over a handful of moves from the top hold, but Japan’s Masahiro Higuchi efficiently solved the first crux move at the bat-hang to match Bombardi’s high point for his first IFSC World Cup medal on count-back to their semifinal scores.

Ghisolfi cruised through the first crux as well and fought the pump on the concluding moves to complete the first top in finals and secure a medal in Kranj.

That medal turned to gold when lead world champion Austrian Jakob Schubert, powering his way to the top hold, peeled off the last move to place second.

It was the second victory for Ghisolfi this year, who improved to 29 points behind Schubert in the Lead season rankings with only two events remaining.

Yuki Hada and Kokoro Fujii of Japan and Italy’s Francesco Vettorata also competed in finals and climbed well this weekend.

Three Austrian and two Slovenian athletes advanced to the women’s final in Kranj. Big moves started the women’s final route too, with another risky jump early on the wall followed by technical positioning to conserve energy and maintain friction on the overhanging sections of the route. A

ustrian Katharina Posch started strong by sticking the jump and continuing onward for an early lead. The next three finalists dropped at the dyno: veteran Mina Markovic of Slovenia, competing in her 15th Lead World Cup in Kranj, and Swiss Katherine Choong and 16-year-old Japanese climber Natsumi Hirano, IFSC World Cup finalists for the first time.

Hannah Schubert stuck the jump and surpassed teammate Posch’s high point for her first IFSC World Cup medal, falling at the steepest section of the Lead wall where footholds disappear and handholds become even more slippery. Lead season frontrunner Janja Garnbret of Slovenia fell at the same upper crux move, moving ahead on count-back to their semifinal scores but leaving the door open for Lead world champion Jessica Pilz of Austria and Kim.

Only Garnbret and Pilz had won gold medals in Lead this season before Kranj, but that changed when Pilz struggled at the technical moves following the jump to finish between teammates Schubert and Posch. Last to climb in Kranj, Kim held the crux sloper and rose to the headwall for her 28th IFSC World Cup victory.

Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018 qualified athletes Vita Lukan and Lucka Rakovec of Slovenia placed 20th and 24th at home, one week before Buenos Aires. Visit the Kranj event page for full results and replays.

The IFSC World Cup season concludes with the second stage of the 2018 China Tour in Wujiang and Xiamen, the final lead and speed events.


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Latok I North Face Seems Invincible Said Thomas Huber

Top alpinists Thomas Huber, Rainer Treppte, Simon Gietl and photographer Yannick Boisennot have bailed on plans to climb the north face of Latok I, the very famous 7,145-metre peak in Pakistan.

The team arrived about a month ago, but the conditions have not lined up with expectations.

They climbed Panmah Kangri (6,406 m) before turning their attention to Latok III for more acclimatization.

“We climbed up to camp one at 5,700 metres and then down again,” Huber told Stefan Nestler here. “We calculated three days if everything went well and the conditions were good.

“We tried everything that was possible and justifiable from a reasonable climbers’s point of view. More couldn’t be done, we simply have to accept that. I just like it over there. We had a good time and a great atmosphere in the team. That’s what I took home with me.”

The north face was covered in snow with big avalanches ripping down during the warmest time of the day.

“The north face seems invincible,” said Huber. “If you go there, you have to say, ‘good-bye life’ and then touch and go!”

There has been a lot of action on Latok I this year, with the success of Tom Livingstone, Alex Cesan and Luka Strazar reaching the summit from the north; an avalanche incident with the South Korea team on the north face and the tragic end to the Russian expedition.

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Luo Jing is First Chinese Woman Up All 14 8,000ers

Lakpa Sherpa and Luo Jing in 2015

Climber Luo Jing, 42, has climbed Shishapangma, the last of the 14 8,000-metre peaks she had to summit.

She’s the first woman from China to climb all of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks and the 41st person overall.

“I am a single mother and I want to influence other females, mothers particularly. I want to make them believe that they can do more if they open their mind,” she said.

“To reach the mountain peak is not the ultimate goal. What I am really excited about is to expand my possibilities. Others might not remember each and every peak I have ever climbed on, but the peaks will remember for sure that a Chinese woman has been there.”

Jing is the fifth woman to climb all of the 8,000-metre peaks after South Korean Oh Eun-sun, Spaniard Edurne Pasaban, Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Italian Nives Meroi

Kaltenbrunner and Meroi reached the tops of all peaks without the use of supplemental oxygen.

Luo Jing’s first 8,000er was Manaslu in 2011, less than seven years ago.

In 2012, she climbed Makalu; in 2013 she climbed Kangchenjunga, Gasherbrum I and II; in 2014, she climbed Dhaulagiri and K2; in 2016 she climbed Annapurna, Mount Everest and Cho Oyu; in 2017 she climbed Lhotse; in 2018 she climbed Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak and now Shishapangma.

“After climbing so many mountains, I realized that I did not conquer the mountains, but the mountains accepted me,” she said to China Daily in 2017.

“After climbing so many mountains, I realized that I did not conquer the mountains, but the mountains accepted me,” Luo said.

Luo Jing on Broad Peak / Luo Jing Collection

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Massive Lhotse Couloir Dream Line Skied!

Adrian Ballinger has reported on Instagram that Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison have skied the famed Lhotse Couloir on Mount Lhotse in the Himalayas after reaching the summit.

As we reported two weeks ago: The steep 50-degree couloir is about 700 metres long and hangs above a nearly 1,500-metre face that ends at the Western Cwm.

For the past few decades, a few dozen skiers have skied variations on the Lhotse Face, but never the couloir.

Many big line skiers consider it one of the last few great ski lines in the Himalayas that is accessible.

Jamie Laidlaw, a top American skier, nearly completed the run a decade ago, but his oxygen supply wasn’t working properly.

One of the biggest problems with skiing at altitude is that you burn out after a few dozen turns.

Morrison had skied on Everest and Nelson has climbed Everest and Lhotse, and the pair had skied big lines together for years.

Earlier this year, Polish skier Andrzej Bargiel made the first ski descent of K2, the world’s second highest mountain and only 200 metres shorter than Everest.

His descent will go down in history as one of the most daring descents ever made on skis. Following his solo ascent to the summit – without oxygen – he spent the next seven-plus hours getting down.

Be sure to follow below for updates and stories as they are published about the Lhotse descent.

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