Adam Ondra Has a 500-metre Static Rope


Adam Ondra just won the Czech Nationals and has already turned his sights back to the outdoors.

In an Instagram post today, he showed off the tag for a 500-metre static rope.

In Canada, 80- and 100-metre ropes are often used as climbing ropes at crags in the Rockies and on the coast.

Longer ropes have surely been used, but the weight of the rope would make it nearly impossible to move upwards, especially when you add drag, on hard climbs.

A 500-metre lines is usually reserved for rescue specialists who need to access an area, but some viderographers have access to long ropes.

Photographers often have to rig hundreds of metres of rope on walls to get capture the action and Ondra’s video team is likely one of the best equipped.

El Cap often has fixed ropes from the bottom to top during peak season for photographers to capture hard sends. Freerider was fixed for Alex Honnold’s free solo in 2017.



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Godzilla is New Four-Pitch 5.9 Close to Canmore


Godzilla is a new 5.9 four-pitches all-bolted route on Kanga South above Upper Grassi Lakes parking area in Canmore.

The first ascent was in June 2018 by Dave Smart and Brandon Pullan with later route cleaning help from Re Cairney, James Walter, John Price
and Cory Rogans.

Like all Rockies’ routes, there will be loose and flaky rocks for a few seasons and don’t throw any big boulders off because they might reach the road below.

As of the fall, the route had over 50 ascents and has been guided. The grades will surely change over time as it cleans up, but for now the following description includes the most agreed upon grades.

It’s named Godzilla to stick with the movie-themed names that Pullan has established on the same wall, which include Hot Fuzz 5.8 and Sharknado 5.8, a two- and four-pitch route.

Godzilla

Approach: Head up to Hot Fuzz and Sharknado above Upper Grassi Parking. Continue along scree to obvious switchback. Head up to group of a few trees at lowest part of the wall left of Hot Fuzz.
P1: Head up and right past bolts to arête. Up slab to corner. Good jugs up to small ledge and dirty crack. Up past a tree on right (good to grab) to slab and anchor. (5.7 10 bolts)
P2: Move up chimney to bolt, head left on good side pulls and jugs to left of roof. Use left wavy crimps and small feet with arête to big holds and upper arête climbing. Up ledge to anchor. (5.9 6 bolts)

Brandon Pullan on pitch-two of Godzilla Photo John Price

P3: Up corner, step right past first bolt, then up and back left into corner past second. Up good crack then move right past third bolt to upper wall. Fun face climbing to steeper bulge. Clip bolt and move left to finer rail and another bolt. Mantle ledge to anchor. (5.8 8 bolts)
P4: Up left of trees and onto slab below corner. Stay left of bolts on good rock to corner. Stem and crimp up wicked corner, staying left of bolts. At the top, find good holds left of bolts until obvious to stem and traverse over to the top of a flake/ledge (will continue to clean up). Up thin slab up right to anchor. (5.9 10 bolts)
Gear: 12 quickdraws, 70-metre rope, Helmets
Descent: Rappel route. Might be possible with 60m rope, but haven’t tried. Bring a 70 for now. Watch for falling rocks when you pull your rope. Rappel the chimney from pitch three to pitch two.

Godzilla 5.9 on Kanga South



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Popular Climbing Instagramer @lizzy.ellison Deletes Account


Lizzy Ellison

Social media has a way of connecting and motivating through stories and photos, but there’s no denying many people struggle with its purpose and the unwanted exposure it may bring.

Popular Instagramer @lizzy.ellison has recently deleted her account that had 15,800 followers after posting a story and a post explaining why.

The following is what she posted on Instagram:
A response to my story to answer some questions, and a more in depth explanation of why I’m deleting my gram:
1st) I’ll keep this account til that story goes down so I can make sure I don’t lose contact with friends.
2nd) Yes I think I’ll still make videos occasionally about my trips and climbs and such
3rd) Why I’m deleting my account:
– I don’t want to be in a spotlight. Being known by people before I meet them gives me a weird anxiety. Everyone has ideas about who you are based on ur online personality. And none of them are ever fully accurate.
– I realized I don’t want a career that revolves around that so what’s the point in holding on to this?
– As hard as it is for me to admit, I find it changing my climbing ambitions sometimes. Not always, but sometimes I think about the Instagram post I’ll put up after I send and am excited for that (This picture for example I was saving for when I do this climb and had a caption typed and ready) And that’s so not what drives me internally to climb. I don’t want to strengthen this external motivation, because that could kill my internal drive. And my passion for climbing is priceless to me. I don’t want to endanger it.
– I want to be where I am with who I’m with. Present.
– It’s easy to waste time on here. It’s not worth giving so much of my life to something that doesn’t really exist. Instagram is funny. Having it has opened a lot of doors to me and brought me some of my favorite friends. But I think getting rid of it could do the same thing for me. Much love to everyone who’s been following my crazy life and provided support. Thanks for caring. Now on to real life.

There were dozens of heartfelt comments left on the post including, “My boyfriend and I met you at Joe’s when you were working Worst Case Scenario with a couple of your friends. I had no idea how ambitious of a climber you were or that you competing in major climbing competitions until I started browsing through my Instagram feed while in Joe’s. I just wanted to say, I’m glad that I got to see a snapshot in your life on the gram. You’re an inspiring young female climber and although I’ll miss your climbing posts, good on you for taking this step. Good luck, Lizzy!! – random girl from the crag”

And, “I can probably speak for most of us when I say that I’ll be sad to see you go but support your desire to keep your life a bit more private. It’s a mature decision to make. You should still know that you have quite a talent for capturing and narrating the story of a regular climber’s life. (And give excitement to those of us who are chained to our desk and spend a ton of time daydreaming about climbing). Good Luck to you and I hope to see you on YouTube.”

Ellison’s YouTube page is still up so be sure to check in from time to time for new videos.



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Eighth Women’s Climbing Symposium Inspires


Now in its eighth year, the annual Women’s Climbing Symposium (WCS) continues to grow and inspire action.

by Bouldering star Shauna Coxsey (GBR) and most recently held on Oct. 6 at HarroWall in London, the biggest edition yet included several IFSC athletes and former athletes as key speakers and guests.

Aiming to connect, develop and inspire with stories from their outdoor and competition experiences, Anna Stöhr (AUT), Caroline Ciavaldini (FRA), and Beth Rodden (USA) headlined the event.

A further eight focus talks were held by women, including current Paraclimbing athlete Isabella Walsh (GBR) and former competitor Nina Williams (USA).

Participants also had the opportunity to get involved and participate in several hands-on workshops.

These workshops focused on a variety of climbing-related topics, from Bouldering technique to training and yoga. Coaches included seasoned competitors Leah Crane (GBR), Petra Klingler (SUI), Gracie Martin (GBR) and Coxsey.

More information can be found on the WCS website and in Red Bull’s review of the event.



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The Pou brothers open "Kolpez Kolpe" (200m, 7c + / 8a) and "Babe Magnet" (200m, 8a +) in Mallorca


 

TWO NEW WAYS

The Pou brothers do not know what it is to be still. This time the place chosen for their activities has been Mallorca, where they have opened two lines which they have called "Kolpez Kolpe" (7c + / 8a) and "Babe Magnet" (8a +).

 

It is clear that the Pou brothers do not know what it is to be still, their ability and their vision to open new routes of climbing all over the world, is well known. This time it was the turn of Mallorca the largest of the Balearic Islands, where once again demonstrating their talent and desire to excel, leave their mark by bringing two futuristic lines to the world of mountaineering that they called "Kolpez Kolpe" and "Babe Magnet" .

 Classic climbing first. How to survive learning by Heidi Pesterfield. Editions Desnivel "width =" 173 "height =" 227
Classic climbing first. How to survive learning by Heidi Pesterfield.

The two of about 200 meters, and both with an important difficulty that reaches the eighth grade: the first is 7c + / 8a while the second reaches 8a + . But above the difficulty -which is very big- we must point out that they are openings again done in an impeccable style as the Pou brothers like: entering from below in free, using floating material ( friends and fisureros ]) whenever possible, drilling as little as possible, and when necessary, suspended from hooks that in case of jumping can produce very long falls … Therefore, and as they always do, without making any kind of trap, and respecting the history of mountaineering as it was taught by his parents from an early age.

If you have to assess what has been the hardest, you are left with the enormous psychological burden that implies opening in such a pure style, because the falls can be enormous. In his own words: "The two routes are physically very difficult, we are talking about difficulties of eighth grade on the wall, but this is nothing compared to the psychological burden involved in climbing a route of this style. In many places you will fly so many meters that falling is not an option. "

"We were leaving wondering how we had left insurance so far away"

As if all this were not enough, following the line that we are accustomed, have not been satisfied with just opening the routes, if not also take the first two free climbs :

"Once climbed the two and with the adrenaline still flowing in torrents, we laughed at ourselves seeing the fear we had been making the first ascents . We had been so pure during the opening, that when going to chain them, with all the tension in the body, we were wondering how we had left the insurance so far … Come on, so that everyone understands it: That the first ones that we passed stress for having opened them in this style we were ourselves (They laugh while they tell it) …! ".

Therefore will not be routes for all audiences and although today, there are climbers who can escalate these difficulties, they want to make it very clear that "it is not the same to do seventh or eighth grade with the last insurance in the knee, to do it with the last insurance six meters from the foot … "

"Surely will not be routes with a lot of short-term repetitions but we do not care, over time and as the scale increases and the new generations become stronger, little by little they will be repeated, and people will realize the enormous work we are doing all over the world in favor of climbing and mountaineering . "

"They are very good, difficult to climb and we are very proud of them"

And let no one be confused: "Not being next to home these two tracks are of minor importance. Many times you do not need to go to the other side of the world to explore new terrains of adventure and immerse yourself in the unknown. Both "Kolpez Kolpe" and "Babe Magnet" are two of the best tracks of our career. They are very good, difficult to climb, and we are very proud of them. "

It is a turn of the screw that the Pou do in Mallorca, where they spend very long seasons, fruit of which they are developing without rest the climb on the island, and making known that this beautiful place is much more than beaches crowded, endless parties, and vacation tourism. "Sa Roqueta", as many locals know it, has enormous potential in terms of active and mountain tourism.

They want to dedicate both climbs to the town of San Llorenç, to its people, and to all the Mallorcan Levante which suffered very recently with the last floods: "We want to transfer all our support and affection for all These people who are suffering. Mallorca has always been very good to us. "

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