Watch as Adam Ondra Prepares for Olympics 2020


Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra is arguably the best rock climber in the world, with the most ascents of 5.15s and more hard first ascents than anyone else.

In the past, he’s also been dedicated to competition climbing—a format he has excelled in, with countless podiums and world championships—but recently his focus has been on the real stone.

However, with the competition scene entering the big stage during the 2020 Olympics, Ondra has decided to give everything to indoor climbing in hopes of taking home the gold.

The first big test? Next month’s IFSC World Championships in Innsbruck, Austria. Check out this video that documents Ondra’s recent training on the long road to Tokyo.

Ondra’s Road to Tokyo



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Boy Seriously Injured in Auto-Belay Accident in Ontario


Benjamin McDermott, a six-year-old from Barrie, was at the Horseshoe Adventure Park in Ontario when he fell nearly 15 metres to the ground.

The rock tower he was on has a number of auto-belays rigged to the top of the round feature which can have a number of people climbing on it at once.

It’s advertised on horseshoeresort.com that paying for a climb “includes three climbs” and you must be between 35 and 200 lbs.

The accident happened on Aug. 24 and was reported about on Aug. 30 by Shane MacDonald on simcoe.com here.

“Everybody said it was fine,” said Neil McDermott, Benjamin’s father. “He then leaned back and was reaching for a rope that wasn’t there.”

After falling from the top of the tower, he was unconscious and had a number of broken bones. “It’s a miracle that he even survived,” McDermott said. Benjamin is currently recovering in the hospital.

The outdoor rock tower at Horseshoe uses a system where the auto-bely is located inside of the vertical structure and re-directed with a pulley.

The ropes/straps are replaced with cables that have protectors within reach of the climber. It’s not a common system and nearly all climbing gyms use Trublue or a similar set-up.

Pulleys and cables on the climbing wall

Selena McLeod was at the scene with her family and witnessed the accident. “When I looked up, the carabiner, which was supposed to be attached to his harness, was still attached to the top of the auto-belaying device and it was open,” McLeod said.

“Maybe it was defective; maybe it wasn’t put on properly. I don’t know.” The rock wall has since been closed until the Ministry of Labour completes their investigation.

“We want there to be a proper investigation. We want to determine what happened and we want to make sure it never happens again,” McDermott said.

“This past Friday (Aug. 24) there was an unfortunate incident on our rock climbing wall,” wrote Val Hamilton, marketing manager for Horseshoe Resort. “Our thoughts are with the boy and his family.”

The family has sought representation from a personal-injury law firm. “We need to make sure that Ben’s interest and our interests as a family are looked after,” McDermott said.

There are hundreds of auto-belays at gyms across North America and accidents are very rare, but have been reported.

Horseshoe Resort rock climbing



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Evan Hau Sends New 5.14 at Christie Falls in B.C.


Evan Hau often spends his summer days establishing hard new routes in the Canadian Rockies, but recently visited Christie Falls near Kelowna.

Christie Falls has a number of big projects where climbers have been establishing some amazing B.C. cragging for the past decade.

“Today I sent Neanderthal at Christie Falls, I think it is 5.14b,” said Hau about the first ascent of the decade-old project. “Adam Tutte first showed me this place seven years ago.

“Beyond stoked to be able to come back and complete this mega line. Incredible effort by Adam to discover this wall and develop it into what is today and what it can become in the future.”

Dave Mai of DM Productions was at Christie Falls and captured the below photo of Hau on his new 5.14.

In 2014, Tutte wrote the following here for Gripped, “There are currently six routes and I’m working on number seven. The routes range from 5.11c to 5.14+. There are four routes still waiting a first ascent and two of them are true test piece lines around 35 metres.

“There is a line out of the big cave I called Cave Man that goes at 5.12b/c, three stars, then the extension I figure is 5.14-, but has not been sent.

“The next big project is even more impressive and climbs right behind the falls. It’s a 30- to 35-metre long, 25-degree-overhang line.”

While we await an updated topo from the crag that will surely be the go-to in Central B.C., here’s one from this spring. Not all routes are listed.

Christie Falls Topo

First line is open project 5.13?
Red line is closed project
Third line is pen project 5.14?
Fourth line is Neanderthal 5.14b

Christie Falls Photo Adam Tutte



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Wild Images of Crouching Tiger, Big New B.C. 5.12


Brette Harrington recently completed a 2016 project she began with Marc-Andre Leclerc on the Chinese Puzzle Wall in B.C.

She teamed up with Caro North and Chris Kalman and invited top photographer Kieran Brownie along to capture it on film.

The Chinese Puzzle Wall is on the south face of one of Mount Rexford’s batholith formations above the Nesakwatch Valley There are big pines, cedars and alders that are home to big animals and birds.

In total, they climbed 11 pitches, eight new and three part of Hidden Dragon, Leclerc and Harrington’s 2016 5.12c routes.

Crouching Tiger gets the 5.12b+ grade and climbs 500 metres of splitter granite. Read Harrington’s write-up of the route here.



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World Championships Return to Innsbruck for 2018


The 2018 Climbing Worlds are returning to Innsbruck for the first time since 1993. Exactly 25 years since the first edition of the Worlds took place in Innsbruck, the IFSC Climbing World Championships is set to return to Tirol’s capital.

The 2018 World Championships in Innsbruck will revolve around the theme of “Make Friends. Climb. Celebrate.”

Some 750 athletes coming from 70 different nations will compete for their country at the brand-new Innsbruck Climbing Center at Sillufer and at Innsbruck Olympia World.

Athletes will compete in Lead, Bouldering, Speed and Paraclimbing. World Champions are crowned in each discipline. The Worlds will attract an estimated 40,000 spectators from all over the world and are broadcast to a global audience.

One of the main highlights for visitors attending the event will be the Climbers Paradise Village on the Marktplatz square in the centre of Innsbruck.

It will host lots of great side events particularly aimed at those new to rock climbing. Artificial climbing walls will provide plenty of opportunities to try out this fun sport with the help of trained instructors.

There will be a number of Canadians at the big comp, be sure to tune in for coverage of the big comp for the next two weeks.



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Watch Mike Doyle Send Pulse 5.14 in 1998


It was 20 years ago that Canadian Mike Doyle sent his first 5.14a with a send of Pulse near Squamish.

Just this week, Doyle made the third ascent of Blue Jeans Direct 5.14a on Yamnuska and has been ticking hard routes, such as Kurgo 5.14 at Planet X all summer.

Pulse was the first 5.14a in Canada and is many climbers’ first of the grade. It’s a powerful route with 14 bolts and was first climbed by Jim Sandford in 1995.

Over the past few months, Doyle has also climbed The Shining Uncut 5.14, War Hammer 5.14 and the East Face of Monkey Face 5.13R in Smith Rock.

Doyle on Pulse



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Brette Harrington, Caro North and Chris Kalman, first ascent of 'Crouching Tiger'


500 meters, 7B

        

Brette Harrington, Caro North and Chris
Kalman have signed the first ascent of Crouching Tiger
(the tiger crouched) in Canada. It's a big wall of 500 meters and
difficulties up to 7b in a wall called Chinese Puzzle.

        

Thursday, August 30, 2018 – Updated at 1:20 PM

                

                
                

 

                     Brette Harrington (front) and Caro North in 'Crouching Tiger', Canada. 2018

Brette Harrington (front) and Caro North in 'Crouching Tiger', Canada. 2018 (@Kieran Brownie)

    

 
        
        



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Cross of reproaches between Tom Livingstone, Evgeniy Glazunov and Alexander Gukov by Latok I


Slope
– Thursday, August 30, 2018 – Updated at 09: 30h.

After the intense activity in Latok I this summer, the mountain continues to generate debate. In an interview in the
magazine Rock and Ice the British Tom Livingstone has
Alexander Gukov and his companion openly criticized
deceased Sergey Glazunov
the Russian team that was also trying the
mountain in early August, and his words have ignited the
wick.

You have to remember that Tom Livingstone,
Ales Cesen and Luka Strazar
arrived to the top crossing part of the northern edge
in mid-August, an objective that many have pursued during
four decades and that they did not complete in full because in the
final section crossed to the south face to then reach the summit
from there. A little earlier, the Russians Glazunov and Gukov had lived
a hell on the same wall
: the first suffered a fatal fall in
the descent and the second one got stuck in the mountain during
seven days and six nights until a helicopter was able to rescue him . Upon his return Alexander Gukov explained that was confident that he had climbed the ridge to its final part and that even his companion Sergey Glazunov claimed to have reached the top of Latok 1, something of which he was not sure.

Weeks after these events, the
protagonists have become entangled in a cross-accusations through
Internet that we reproduce in chronological order:

Tom Livingtone in an interview
for Rock and Ice :

"I would like to send my condolences
to the family of Sergey and wish Alexander a quick recovery .
At the same time, I can not help being critical of actions and
comments of the latter. I tried not to say anything, but I think
It is important that it be known.

Alexander lived a situation
delicate last year. He was 15 days on the mountain and his two
Comrades suffered a lot. One lost some toes,
the other all plus some of the hands. Your final comment on
report [forthe American Alpine Journal ] says: "I trust having
a good opportunity next time "
. This bothered us (to my
Slovenian friends and me). He seemed to pay very little attention to
danger that everyone had run. One of his friends who were in
the base camp even admitted: "He does not know when to turn around" .
Alexander also fed the topics around the "style
Russian "-success at any cost, whatever the price.

We think they should have retired before

While Alexander and Sergey climbed
this year and they were quite up, they said several times that
they were doing ambitious and unrealistic "top-down attacks" .
They were well below the summit (about 6800 meters) and, despite
the attempts of previous days, again and again (maybe for three
days in a row) they tried to get up. We saw them with the
binoculars from the base camp, nervous about their behavior so
unwise.

His steps had been incredibly
slow
during the previous nine days. It was very unlikely that his
rhythm improved in attacks at the top, and also traveled distances
very small every day. It was bad weather, they were very high and
also very tired after days without food. His perseverance was
impressive
but we think they should have retired earlier.

De
fact, when the bad weather came, they still launched another attack.
We could only shrug our shoulders and think that they were
squeezing a lot
too high, too long.
We thought they were going to have a scare. Even his country friends
base were worried and asked for a helicopter to supervise
where they were and try to throw provisions at them.

Shortly after, Sergey had the fall
fatal
. Six days later, Alexander was
rescued a helicopter. I think it took 18 days on the wall.
When I was already close to the glacier thanks to the long line ,
Ales said: "I've never seen anyone so close to death but still
I live "
.

We chose the simplest line

I'm proud of our ascension
to Latok I. Ales, Luka and I climbed under control. We take
delicate but strategic decisions. We were independent.
We chose the simplest line. We came back safe and sound after
seven days
. We did not lose any finger or toe. He
Mountaineering is a dangerous game. If you do not return home safe and sound,
you lose If you amputate fingers, you lose. Of course it affected us
the tragedy of the Russians. But when everything happened and we talked again
of our motivations, we decided to continue with the plan: ascend
to Latok I by our line
which is the route we had always
had in mind.

Words of Evgeniy Glazunov,
brother of the late Sergey Glazunov, on his Facebook wall:

"I'm addressing Tom specifically, he has
it was only he who has expressed his opinion. It is likely that the
rest of the team have another point of view.

First of all, I must say that I trust
in all mountaineers who claim to have made a way to the top
can prove it or not, because honesty predominates in our
sport
. I do not know you, Tom, and neither do your friends from
Slovenia. We have never agreed but I would like to do it. I do not
I want to exceed you because none of you have made me
nothing bad, like us, however …

You speak of the "Russian style" without knowing
nothing of the situation
the circumstances or of the boys. You do not know
nothing of Sergey, of the ways he has done on the mountain, of his
style and his attitude towards mountaineering. I used to be his partner
of rope and his coach and I must tell you that you are not capable of
imagine the ascensions we've done together, especially
winter You have no right to make considerations as your step
It was "incredibly slow". Your route was much simpler than
which they chose Gukov and Glazunov . You and your team have avoided
all the committed areas and you have reached the top by the face
south-call things by their name. At the same time,
you accept the congratulations for the first confirmed ascent of the
Latok I on the north side.

They do not
At Latok I, they wanted to take the lead at all costs,
north edge

Do you really think Sergey and
Alexander were not able to solve your line in the same
How long are you? Or do you really think that none of the many
climbers who have tried to climb the north fell into the
possibility of crossing to the south face
? His goal was different -no
At Latok I, they wanted to take the lead at all costs,
arista norte-. Also, I want to state that Jeff Lowe and his
team spent 26 days
on the wall and did not reach altitude at
the one that Sergey and Alexander arrived.

Your photo of top is doubtful and I do not know
It differs a lot from what Sergey did (just compare them). May l
find a million similar images from different "peaks".

Dear Tom, I'm sure you will receive your
Golden ice ax but, please, never again judge facts about
those that you have no idea, especially the previous attempts of
Gukov, or that the northern edge can be scaled entirely. Although
you're right, has been scaled completely and they have been my brother and
Gukov who have done it
at least up to a place up to which
No one had climbed until now. But you can not imagine how far you
All that remains, friend.

PS: If you ever want to expand your
knowledge of the "Russian style" you are invited to one of our
winter camps in the Sayanes Mountains in Siberia, where my
Brother and I made our first ascents. "

Words by Alexander Gukov in Rock
and Ice
:

About the crossing of
statements, Alexander Gukov has been defended in a long
interview in Rock and Ice . First, prove that the
inconsiderate statements to his colleagues in the report of the
last year are the fruit of the editor's changes when he translated the
text from Russian to English. With regard to what happened this summer,
write:

"Tom says that we said
repeatedly that we were making attacks to the top. For real?
Who said it? And whom? Can someone remind me when
we said it? We had two days of good weather according to the part of the
time and that is why we launched the attack to the top on July 22. The part
end of the road was the most technical and difficult and that's why
We continue on the 23rd and finish that same day. Not to mention that
it was impossible that they could see us progress from the base camp with
binoculars.

Our land was more
complicated and we had foreseen

Tom also says that our pace in
The previous nine days had been very slow. During the fifth
day we reach the height at which they [ Livingstone, Ales Cesen and
Luka Strazar
] deviated from the northern ridge to the pass [que hay
entre el Latok I y el II]. During our ascension of the year
past, Valera Shamalo suggested us to follow that line but not
we wanted I think the altitude at this point was 6300 meters, not 6500.
Everyone knows that from this point the northern edge will
it gets harder and harder
.

So, yes, we moved more
slowly
than Tom's team; but our terrain was more
complicated and we had anticipated it in our program. "

Finally, it is explained with respect to
accusations of having passed the security line:

"How
Do you know that you have not gone too far? Have you always
I mean you had everything under control? Who knows better than you
When is the time to turn around?
We had trained hard.
We measured the conditions objectively all the time. Further,
for being the oldest, I felt responsible for Sergey and was pending
of him all the time. He was fine, in fact, he was in better shape
that I. We were tired, but not exhausted . "

                

Prize Desnivel de Literatura 2017:

                                

 Book cover: Everest. Because it is there. Desnivel Award 2017. "src =" http://static.desnivel.com/images/2017/11/17/everest-porque-esta-ahi_web.jpg "style =" width: 150px; height: 223px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; margin: 5px; float: left; "/> </p>
<h5>
</h5>
<p> Everest. Because it's there </p>
<p> <em> Prize Desnivel 2017 </em> </p>
<p> Everest. Because it is there, it gathers the best ingredients of all those books that inspired different generations of "conquerors of the useless". A story in parallel, which gains interest and tension as it progresses; where the experiences of those pioneers of 1924 are intertwined, with those of two modern climbers. In a narrative with a large dose of humor and irony. </p>
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Bear Bites Hikers, Bear Spray Saves the Day in Rockies


Grizzly Bear in Banff National Park Photo Brian Rooks

A woman from Calgary was hiking near French Creek in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park this past weekend with her son when a bear that was protecting a carcass attacked them.

The man suffered injuries to his face, arms and head and the woman’s hand was bit while trying to use the bear spray.

When the bear bit the canister of spray, it deployed into its face and scared it off.

“They surprised a bear at close range, about three metres, near a moose carcass, resulting in a defensive attack,” Arian Spiteri, district conservation officer for Kananaskis Country, said to the Rocky Mountain Outlook.

“The attack occurred in an area of thick vegetation and the two suffered non-life threatening injuries … They did get medical attention, but they were incredibly lucky.”

The injuries were not life threatening and the two walked back to their car and drove to the hospital in Canmore.

“In this instance, who knows what the outcome would have been if there wasn’t bear spray?” said Nick de Ruyter, program director for Bow Valley WildSmart, to Rocky Mountain Outlook.

“The fact that the bear spray was there and it worked deterred the bear. The bear went away and they were able to get to safety.”

The attack led to an immediate evacuation of the area with 11 hikers taken out by helicopter.

The southern portion of Spray Valley in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park between Mount Shark Road and Black Prince is closed until further notice.

The area includes French Creek, Hogarth Lake, Burstall Pass, Chester Lake, Sawmill Trail network and the High Rockies Trail from Rummel Lake south to Black Prince.

Parks Canada recommends to always carry bear spray: Carry bear spray with you at all times on the trail, and know how to use it. Bear spray can be effective with some bears when used properly.

Be aware that wind, spray distance, rain, freezing temperatures and product shelf life can all influence its effectiveness. Familiarize yourself with the proper use of bear spray (including the manufacturer’s specific instructions) and keep it readily accessible.

More tips on how to avoid bear attacks here.

Area Closed



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Alexander Gukov Details Latok I North Ridge Ascent


Sergey Glazunov on Latok I. Photo Alexander Gukov / mountain.ru

The Russian website mountain.ru has translated a report by Alexander Gukov about the Latok I expedition that killed his climbing partner Sergey Glazunov.

Gukov said in his report that he believes they reached the top of the North Ridge, but not the summit of Latok I.

They began their climb on July 13 and Gukov said that 10 days later, they were prepared for their summit push from high on the ridge.

The report goes into day-by-day details, including specifics about the amazing rescue that took place for Gukov after Glazunov died.

Excerpt from the report: I think that it was the top of the North ridge or the western “summit” of Latok I.
Although I can now see on Google Earth that there was only 360m from that point to the main summit with a small height difference but we did not see this in the fog.

Sergey and I decided that we would not lie. He believed it was the summit, I believed it was not.
We didn’t have a second chance to check it. If we had taken the tent and stayed there on the “mushrooms,” we would have found out. But we did not take it.

After that we started to descend. When we heard and saw the helicopter we thought that it was the second team who called for assistance, as we knew that they had been injured by the rockfall during the descent, and that they decided to look for us at the same time.

Read the full report here.

Latok I July ascent line. Photo by Sergey Glazunov / mountain.ru



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