Epic Rescue on Latok I Saves Stranded Climber


An epic rescue has taken place on Latok I which has saved Alexander Gukov after six days with almost no food or water.

He was picked up by helicopter and is recovering at a hospital in Skardu, but is in good condition.

On July 25, his partner Sergey Glazunov fell during their attempt on the classic, but unclimbed, North Ridge at about 6,200 metres.

They left base camp on July 12 and left their high camp with five days of food at 5,500 metres on July 15.

A storm set in and forced the climbers to descend, which is when something went wrong during a rappel and Glazunov fell.

Miraculously, Gukov seems to have escaped frost bite, built a snow cave and was able to stay in touch with rescuers the entire time.

Gukov’s Positon on Latok I

Mountain.ru had been covering the rescue and wrote for Planetmountain.com, “One heli threw the sling hovering close to the ridge. The other B3 was hovering right behind him giving adjustment instructions about sling end with D ring to the lead heli.

“Thus the two B3s worked in tandem. After trying for 15 minutes, Alex finally managed to get hold of the sling and connected the D ring to his harness. The heli flying back confirmed the safe engagement and instructed the lead heli to pull off with Alex attached. The fuel level was getting critically low by then.

“However, it was touch and go as Alex had forgotten to remove his anchor to the mountain. Thus he found himself connected to the sling of the B3 on one end and Latok to the other as the mountain refused to let him go. The pilots were extremely lucky as Alex’s Latok anchor finally gave away releasing him. The B3s pulled out and brought Alex to safety at the BC from where he was taken directly to CMH Skardu.”

Mountain.ru noted that the Pakistani helicopter pilots had “done the impossible.”

Gukov’s rescue on Latok I Photo Pakistani Army



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Collector's items from The North Face, auctioned at 2,100 m high


In the Dolomites, until August 5

        

The North Face athletes have donated
a total of eight bags, jackets and other items used in
his expeditions, which the firm has taken to auction during the
celebration of The North Face Mountain Festival. The items are located
in a pop-up shop at 2,100 m in the Dolomites.

        

Monday, July 30, 2018 – Updated at 2:59 p.m.

                

                
                

 

                     Pinnacle Project of The North Face, with a pop-a store at 2,100 m in the Dolomites

Pinnacle Project of The North Face, with a pop-up shop at 2,100 m in the Dolomites

    

 
        
        

During the weekend of celebration
The North Face Mountain Festival, from July 27 to 29, will be
presented the auction at pop-up mountain shop located at 2,100 m
in the heart of the Dolmitas
in the Italian Val San Nicolò. Everybody
those who wish to visit the iconic exhibition of articles of
collector must take a two-hour walk.

A total of eight have been recovered
bags, jackets and collector's items, used by the athletes of The North Face
during their most outstanding expeditions, and have been tagged with a personal message from
each athlete to motivate the new owner to never stop exploring ("Never Stop
Exploring ") and reaching new goals.

The auction of the articles will be
open until 23:59 CET on Sunday, August 5
of 2018 in
www.thenorthface.com/pinnacle-project and all the money
collected will be reinvested in the mountains.

The Pinnacle Collection includes:

  • The Antarctic down jacket
    Summit Series L3 used by Alex Honnold
    which protected the prestigious climber of
    cold of Antarctica in one of his last expeditions.
  • The Summit Series down jacket
    used by Tamara Lunger
    a symbol of strength and motivation employed in her attempt to
    crown the summit of Nanga Parbat.
  • The Summit Series Antarctic jacket
    Ventrix Expedition
    donated by the legendary American climber Conrad Anker.
  • The Verto 32 Legacy Pack, that
    he endured more than eleven hours on the rock with the climber James Pearson at Punta Giradili.
  • The Summit down jacket
    Series
    which accompanied the climber Caroline Ciavaldini on her ascent of the Grand Capucin, one of
    the most difficult climbing routes in Europe.
  • The XL Base Camp travel bag ,
    who accompanied the snowboarder Xavier de Le Rue on his descent from an active volcano in the
    island of Vanuatu.
  • La ​​ travel bag S Base Camp ,
    used by David Göttle r in his attempt to crown the summit of Nanga Parbat, "the mountain
    murderous. "
  • The Summit Series down jacket
    who used Herve Barmasse on his first ascent at 2700 meters of the face
    west of Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, an inaccessible wall so high and vertical
    as The Captain.

The mountain tent pop-up will be
open for 10 days
and is presented as a true testimony of the origins
of The North Face. The brand is thinking of turning it into a lasting bivouac (a
mountain refuge) that will help the last generation of explorers of the
mountain.

This initiative is also a tribute
At the opening of the first store of The North Face:
on October 26, 1966, in the North Beach neighborhood of San Francisco, a modest outdoor goods store was packed with an eclectic crowd of climbers punk, fashionistas, activists, members of high society and local beatniks. A few nice motorists made doormen in the entrance of the store and the crowd moved to the rhythm of a improvised concert of the legendary band Grateful Dead . That night the true spirit of The North Face was born.

This inauguration kicks off
Exit to "Pinnacle Project" of The North Face : an invitation for the spirits more
rebels join the exploration, through a unique collection of experiences in
direct that will combine outdoor activities, fashion, design and music. Later, in
otoo, urban explorers will be able to join The Pinnacle Project in Berlin and
Manchester, where you can buy coveted limited edition collections.

Here you can see a video of the Pinnacle project of The North Face.

                



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Alexander Gukov has been rescued in the Latok I


IS ALREADY FOUND IN SKARDU

        

The best news we could receive. This morning has been fine weather, the helicopters have been able to fly and rescue Alexander Gukov in the Latok I. He is already in the Skardú hospital. It is weak but has no freezing.

        

Darío Rodríguez / DESNIVEL
– Tuesday, July 31, 2018 – Updated at 08:15 AM

                

                
                

 

                     Alexander Gukov at the moment the helicopter deposited him in the base camp of Latok 1 after being rescued.

Alexander Gukov at the moment the helicopter deposited him in the base camp of Latok 1 after being rescued.

    

 
        
        

At 2:35 a.m. the news that the weather was excellent was received from the base camp. Ten minutes later the helicopters were taking off.

At 4:49 a.m. the best news that could be received: Alexander has been rescued!

He is currently in Skardu hospital very weak but has no frostbite.

As an anecdote, which fortunately has not been tragic, Tomaz Humar spent the same time in the Nanga Parbat (2005) until being rescued by a helicopter: 7 days. And also made the same mistake that seems to have been made by Alexander Gukov : did not let go of the anchor with which he was self-insured to the meeting at the time of subjecting himself to the Long Line of the helicopter . In the rescue of Tomaz Humar the pressure of the helicopter made the anchor jump. Alexander has made the same mistake due no doubt -as happened to Tomaz- to his state of weakness . Luckily, the helicopter (which in such a situation could crash) has been able to rescue him for what we suppose, which, as happened with Tomaz Humar, the force of the helicopter has blown the anchorage to which it was self-insured.

This has been the rescue operation of Alexander Gukov in the Latok 1

After persevering and risking their lives for the past two days, the pilots of the 5th Pakistani high-altitude aviation squadron have demonstrated their expertise and are among the best rescuing Alexander Gukov in an operation that has taken place today. a height of 6300 meters.

The weather cleared during the night. This morning I woke up with blue skies and some cloud around the Latok. However had to fight strong winds at 6,300 meters during the rescue operation .

The two Écureuil B3 left Skardu at 4.55 in the morning and they arrived at Latok 1 around 05.30 h. They landed at the base camp to lighten the helicopters. The pilots first decided to conduct a search mission to locate the exact location of Alex. The Long Line was installed in the helicopters in the base camp. There was left a fuel tank for the following flights and the two helicopters took off with very little to go as light as possible.

The two aircraft flew about 45 minutes at 6,300 meters before seeing Alexander on a narrow ridge. Due to the heavy snow of recent days his orange tent was not visible as it was under snow.

The plan for this first flight was to locate Alexander, recognize the terrain, return to the Base field and return to perform the rescue with the correct fuel load. But the pilots of the helicopters decided to try it.

The weather was good, but the strong winds were constantly creating turbulence for the B3, to the point that for the pilots it was very difficult to stay stable at this altitude. But nature, for once, cooperated . The outside temperature was eight degrees and this helped them to stabilize in the open air at 6,300 m (according to their calculations the ideal temperature was ten degrees). In recent days, the temperature had been much higher.

A helicopter pulled the Long Line near the ridge on which Alexander stood. The other B3 was flying right behind him giving instructions to the other pilot to bring the Long Line to Alexander. The two helicopters worked as a team. After trying for 15 minutes, Alex finally managed to catch the Long Line and tie it to the harness with the carabiner . The support helicopter confirmed that he had done so and instructed the "main" helicopter to rise with Alexander. The fuel level was critical at that time . Then took place a very dangerous moment because Alexander had forgotten to let go of the anchor with which he was secured to the mountain . One very critical situation because at one extreme Alexander was tied to the helicopter, which was pulling hard, and on the other to the mountain that would not let him out … It is an error that has caused fatal accidents, because even It can make the helicopter crash. The pilots and Alexander were lucky because the anchor that held him to the mountain jumped. Alexander was taken to base camp hanging in Long Line and from there to Skardu Hospital.

Source: Anna Piunova, editor of Mountain.Ru (great journalist, excellent photographer and very good climber) who has been the key person in the coordination of this rescue operation and who He has kept everyone informed. Thanks Anna.

                



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Watch Lunag Ri with Conrad Anker’s Heart Attack


Already in 2016, David Lama and Conrad Anker had set out to climb Lunag Ri, a stunningly beautiful, unclimbed peak of 6.907 metres on the borderline between Nepal and Tibet.

As things didn’t go as planned the duo has to retreat just shy of the summit but returns one year later, determined to bring the project to an end.

Despite prime conditions and all the knowledge gathered during their last attempt, their endeavor is stopped rapidly with Anker ’s life dangling between life and death, leaving Lama with some tough decisions to make.

“My lips are numb and my left arm is numb,” said Anker. “And those are indications of a heart attack.

A gripping short film that documents the not-so-glamorous side of big mountain alpine climbing.



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A Rock Climber Has Died on Yamnuska in Alberta


A climber has died after a fall on Yamnuska, a famous mountain with a south-facing wall west of Calgary and close to Canmore.

No name or cause of fall has been released.

Kananaskis Public Safety, Nakoda EMS, RCMP and Alpine Helicopters responded to the call for help from two climbers around 3:30 p.m. yesterday.

Upon arriving, emergency services found one of the two climbers deceased. The climber was identified as a 28-year-old man from Cochrane, a small town close to Calgary.

The other climber required assistance in getting off the mountain according to RCMP Sgt. Stan Andronyk.

“He was assisted off the mountain and does not appear to have suffered any injuries,” Andronyk said.

Yamnuska has over 150 routes, many of which have big run-outs and loose rock.

In 2011, Canmore local Akihira Tawara died after falling while soloing Directissima 5.8 on Yamnuska. While it’s not clear why Tawara fell, most climbers believe it was due to holds breaking on the climb.

Originally from Japan, Tawara was a confidant 5.13 climber and had spent much of his time living and climbing in the Canmore area.

In 2016, a climber fell while climbing Forbidden Corner and had to get heli-rescued with traumatic injuries.

Earlier this year, Matt Snell, 26, tragically died in a climbing accident on Tunnel Mountain in Banff National Park.

This is a developing story that we’ll update once we have more details.

Heli-rescue on Yamnuska in 2016

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New Gym Climbing Book Helps Improve Technique and More


Climbing has become a mainstream sport with more participants than skiing or snowboarding and, among the different types of climbing, gym climbing is the most popular.

Where gyms were once a training ground for rock and alpine climbers, many participants now regularly climb indoors with no plans beyond tackling the ever-changing routes of their neighborhood hangout.

When Mountaineers Books published the first edition of this title in 2004 there were approximately 250 climbing gyms in the United States. Today there are more than 650.

In this completely revised second edition, author Matt Burbach focuses his instruction on climbers who want to excel on indoor routes and problems.

The new edition includes:

– Step-by-step training for beginners
– Strategies for progressing to dynamic movements to top out on ever more difficult new-school routes and problems
– Both bouldering and top-roping instruction
– Physical conditioning, mental training, and kinesiological assessment and theory
– The latest belay and safety techniques
– Explanation of equipment, which is safer, lighter, and more comfortable than ever
– This edition also includes entirely new photos (now in color), with professional climbers Emily Harrington and Matt Segal demonstrating the moves and gym climbing techniques throughout the book.



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Canadian Jillian Brown is Paddling Across the U.S.A


Canadian Jillian Brown, 30, is on 7,600-kilometre, seven-month expedition from Oregon to Florida, despite having a broken foot.

The Squamish-based paddler is about three months into the trip with partner Martin Trahan.

The two adventurers are battling upstream currents, long portages and hope to arrive in November at some point.

On their second day of portaging, Brown suffered a serious fracture to her foot and couldn’t wear her boots anymore.

A few days ago, her feet were almost too injured to go on. “It was the hardest moment,” she said. “I held back the tears as best I could as I turned to Martin, ‘I can’t, I can’t do the walk today. My boots, I can’t get them on.’

“My feet too swollen and in too much pain my boots would know longer go on. I was devastated. I knew I couldn’t get away with wearing my crocs to portage. The fracture in my right foot had caused me to compensate with my left. They both swelled with the force and began to rub. The blisters huge and now oozed with infection. Two toes, black and felt as though hammers had come down upon them.

“Each morning step I told myself, ‘I can do this, keep going, it will all heal once back in the canoe.’ It was the painful truth at that moment, though, my body, my feet could no longer keep going, no matter what I told myself.”

Hours spent paddling each day opens up my mind to a world of thought. Everything from future goals, day dreaming of where I see my life not in years but at the end of this journey. I reflect back upon my past. The experiences that created this person, the failures that opened my eyes to a world of sharing, and motivating. I think often on hearing PTSD for the first time and I change my mind from focusing on the hurt to what it has instilled in me since. Perseverance, Trust, Strength, and Determination, this is my PTSD, this is the beaming light that came from the darkness. “And though she be but little, she is fierce.” #shakespeare • • • Official partners @canoekayakmag and @nrsweb Captured with @gopro #hero6 #mec #nrs #canoe #canoeing #canoecamping #womenwhoexplore #womenempowerment #womenempoweringwomen #selfmagazine #bendingbranches #novacraftcanoe #otvadventures #redbulladventure #natgeoadventure #missouririver #paddlinglife #rain #tetrakey #womenwhopaddle #outdoorwomen #explorer #outsidemagazine #outdoorliving #mydiscovery

A post shared by Jillian A. Brown Photography (@jillianabrownphotography) on

Brown had intended to do the trip alone, but met Trahan a few days before leaving after his trip fell apart.

“Since I was young I found solace in nature,” said Brown. “On hot summer days I would wander, barefooted, over to the marsh by our cabin. Smiling alone as I watched the turtles plop off their perches into the waters.

“I’d run gleefully chasing toads and frogs pouncing to hold them and say hi. Many rainy evenings I’d be found at the end of our dock with my fishing pool casting for hours quietly enjoying.

“I’ve shared space and time with the tiniest of critters to biggest of creatures, finding nothing but pure love, curiosity, and peace. And I’ve let many winds blow my hair wildly and carry my laughter away upon it.”

Their trip will end on the shores of the Florida Keys in the Atlantic Ocean over 7,500 kilometres from the starting point.

Follow the journey with the pair’s words and photos here.

Maybe we are just crazy. We hear it so often when we share our story of the expedition and our goals. But to me, it’s the ones sitting behind a desk, watching others follow their passions on social media, wishing they were able to do the same. Following in the footsteps and allowing societies pressures to make money, to have a family, to go to work each day and go home each night overwhelm them. To some this is happiness and passion and love. To me though these things come from, fulfilling our innate craving to explore, to show off this world, to show off a passion, and to teach others to have courage to go after it. Leave one side of crazy behind to accept another. Life is full of a whole lot of silliness really, and we may as well be creating our own. “A question that sometimes drives me hazy: am I or are the others crazy?” #alberteinstein • • • Official partners @canoekayakmag and @nrsweb #coursingthroughamerica #silliness #fjallraven #theweatherchannel #vssl #valhallakingdom #neverstopexploring #hitcase #laugh #explorers #neverstopexploring #unrulydreamers #expedition #exped #mec #outside_project #otvadventures #outdoorwomen #outdooradventures #campinglife #campingcollective #fun #crazies #instagood #adventureculture #mec_nation #rain #womenwhoexplore #womenempowerment #mydiscovery

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Salt Spring Island Women Paddling Inside Passage to Alaska


Leonie Mahlke and Rebecca Grim are paddling from Salt Spring Island, B.C., to Glacier Bay National Park in Alaska.

Their kayak journey will help them to listen and document voices of the Inside Passage, bringing awareness to why the area is so tremendously important and deserves to be protected.

Their kayak adventures started when a mutual friend took them out on the protected waters of the surrounding islands. Since then, they have gone on several short and long distance trips.

Through kayaking, they have become more aware of the various threats these waters are now facing: they have paddled past fish farms, masses of garbage and some of the large vessels that are frequently traveling through the fragile passages of the Inside Passage.

They have organized local shore garbage clean-ups, raised funds for the proper disposal of hazardous garbage, participated in events to support First Nations and worked for non-profits.

They have launched from Salt Spring Island to paddle through the waterways of the Inside Passage, a network of passages stretching from northwestern Washington to southeast Alaska.

This partially protected coastline is one of the most uniquely raw and wild places in the world. Their trip will amounts to over 2,500 kilometres and will take four months.

“We intend to visit communities and research stations along the way to interview women, who are working towards the protection of the Inside Passage and are spearheading projects at the front lines.”



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This was the descent of the K2 with skis by Andrzej Bargiel


VIDEO

        

It was an achievement pursued by many and the
Polish Andrzej Bargiel did it last Sunday. These are the
images of his ascent to the K2 and his descent with skis, the first
what is achieved

        

LEVEL
– Friday, July 27, 2018 – Updated at 2:41 p.m.

                

                
                

 

                     Andrzej Bargiel descends skiing on K2

Andrzej Bargiel descends skiing the K2 (Redbull)

    

 
        
        



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Canadian Mark Stirling, 42, Climbs Dream 5.14 Grade


Mark Stirling on Leviathan 5.14a at Acephale

Mark Stirling has sent Leviathan 5.14a at Upper Acephale in the Canadian Rockies, it’s his first of the grade.

Stirling, 42, originally from Ottawa, started climbing 18 years ago and dreamed about one day joining the 5.14 club.

“My first memorable milestone climb was Predator 5.13b in Rumney, New Hampshire,” said Stirling about the area that made him first think about climbing 5.14.

“I’ve wanted to send 5.14 since about 2002 or 2003,” he said. “Ever since my first trip to Rumney. I walked up to the Waimea crag and saw China Beach 5.14b.

“I remember thinking I want to do that and looking in the guidebook and seeing it was 5.14 and realizing I need to get strong.

In 2006, he moved to Calgary and began to climb at the local crags, including Acephale.

“Besides the warm-ups, like most people, The Hood 5.13b was the first harder route I did up there,” said Stirling.

Stirling chose Leviathan 5.14a because he “liked how bouldery and powerful it was and that it was a classic Acephale 5.14.”

“I also liked (and hated, I fell going to the chains twice before I sent) that it wasn’t over after you did the crux. I loved the powerful movement and I knew I would have to do everything right to send.”

Stirling felt fairly confident that he would send it this summer if he could get two days a week to try it. “Once I fell going to the chains twice I knew it would happen if I managed the mental side correctly.”

To prepare for the route, Stirling changed his training and developed a non-linear training program. “I started training at Bolder and the environment was very motivating.

“I think the environment at Bolder helped the most. It was really fun training around other strong, motivated people. In the end, a great program does nothing if you aren’t motivated and trying hard.”

However, bouldering indoors only get you so face. “The mental battle and remaining relaxed enough to send,” is what Stirling said was one of the biggest cruxes.

“I knew I was strong enough but was concerned about my fitness to be able to do the finish. Due to my kids/family and work commitments, I knew I was only going to have one or two days a week after work so it was hard to have confidence in my fitness to do the finish.”

With his dream grade climbed, Stirling will continue to find hard routes to work on.

“I think I will always project,” he said. “I love climbing the most when I’m yelling and barely hanging on and the mental struggle of projecting. New project starts Monday.”

Next, Stirling will turn his attention to either Angst 5.14a or Existence Mundane 5.14b at Acephale.

In terms of advice for other 40-year-old climbers hoping to break into the 5.14 grades, he said, “Understand your motivations for wanting to try, set a goal, build a plan to reach the goal and then try hard and don’t make excuses.

“I had to maximize everything in my life to get the send. Just super happy it all worked out as I learned immensely from the process and I feel its made me a much better climber.”

As for China Beach, the Rumney route that planted the 5.14 seed, Stirling said, “The ultimate goal is that I can get strong enough so I can go back to Rumney and send it.”

Mark Stirling on Leviathan 5.14a at Acephale



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