Improper Loading Led to Broken Carabiner

The CAMP Photon carabiner involved in Daniel Woods’ fall on First Round First Minute 5.15b was received at the CAMP/Cassin offices.

“Before starting our analysis it appeared already evident, by looking at the deformation of the carabiner, that when the fall occurred the carabiner was loaded in a transversal direction,” said CAMP/Cassin on a Facebook post below.

“We also observed that the hanger is positioned in a cavity on the First Round First Minute wall and this can favor an abnormal positioning of the carabiner which would eventually led to its deformation and breaking.”

The carabiner has been loaded in an abnormal direction as it was stuck between the hanger and the cavity.

CAMP/Cassin “encourages all climbers to be conscious of abnormalities with bolts and how they interact with gear, not to manipulate equipment, inspect gear found on routes and to read regularly the instruction manuals. You are invited to use your own equipment whose history you well know.”

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Bridge River Buttress is New 15-Pitch 5.7 Near Lillooet, B.C.

Danny O’Farrell on the Lower Slabs of Bridge River Buttress Photo Brandon Pullan

Bridge River Buttress is a new big granite alpine-ish rock climb above the Terzaghi Dam and Seton Lake outside of Lillooet, B.C.

Bridge River is a 120-kilometre long river that flows south-east from the Coast Mountains.

For a millennia, the river was the most important inland salmon-fishing site on the Fraser. The flow of the Bridge River was diverted into Seton Lake after the completion of the Bridge River Power Project, and the Terzaghi Dam, in 1961. The salmon fishery of the Bridge River was near-entirely destroyed by this diversion.

Fisheries biologist Danny O’Farrell moved to Lillooet a year ago to work with the Nxwísten First Nation to monitor the salmon population.

This past winter, O’Farrell found and climbed a number of new ice routes in the steep-walled canyons along the Bridge River.

This summer, after making the first ascent of The Goat, a new bolted 19-pitch route in Marble Canyon, O’Farrell teamed up with Gripped editor Brandon Pullan to explore the granite walls above Bridge River.

The two made the first ascent of Bridge River Buttress in eight hours car-to-car, a 15-pitch 5.7.

The granite has a layer of lichen on the low-angle slabs, has cracks and long run-outs. The route starts 20 minutes from the road and has a long and complicated descent.

Danny O’Farrell on the first half of the Terzaghi Tresverse Photo Brandon Pullan

The Lower Slabs and Upper Slabs are connected by a traverse that breaks through steep and rounded rock. The second pitch of the traverse follows a nice underclinging crack into a stem-corner on good features.

The Buttress at the top follows splitter cracks and big flakes for 300 metres to the upper forest. The wall is much bigger than it appears from the road and they followed about 1,000 metres of climbing.

O’Farrell and Pullan climbed ground-up and only left only one piton on the route, half-way up, and a cairn on top.

This was the first major rock climb above the Bridge River, but there are dozens of other granite walls that await climbers.

Brandon Pullan on the Terzaghi Tresverse Photo Danny O’Farrell

Bridge River Buttress

Approach: Park at the first pull-out passed the Terzaghi Dam. Hike up through trees right of the waterfall. Scramble a ridge and go right to a big tree below a crack.
Lower Slabs: Head up the crack, move left to a steep crack (5.7) and up to a cave. Continue up and right on treed ledge to base of slabs. Climb slabs in three pitches to below yellow-ish arete.
Terzaghi Tresverse: Move right and up to a traverse ledge aiming for base of steep rock out right. Belay under roof at bush. Continue along fun undercling and up chimney (5.7).
Upper Slabs: Stay left of dirty gully and follow fun flakes and cracks up and left of big roof. Find a piton in a face, only fixed gear on route.
Bush Walk: Lead up through the bush for a number of pitches.
Buttress: Climb the buttress, linking face and crack moves. Near top is a right-facing corner (5.7). Eventually the angle eases and you top out in forest.
Descent: Head up and right and follow path of least resistance back to the road. Eye it up before climbing.

Bridge River Buttress III 5.7 15 pitches

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Avalanche Kills Alpinist Christian Huber on Ulter Sar

Ulter Sar

Austrian alpinist Christian Huber has been killed by an avalanche that fell on camp two on Ulter Sar in Pakistan.

The 7,338-metre peak is one of the many high altitude mountains in the Batura Muztagh, Karakoram.

British alpinists Bruce Normand and Timothy Miller were in tents that were not hit by the avalanche and are waiting for a rescue.

Karrar Haidri, the secretary of Alpine Club of Pakistan, said the climbers are at 5,900 metres.

The three-member expedition started in late May and was permitted to go till the first week of July. The team was being managed by Higher Ground Expeditions, a tour operating company in Hunza Valley.

While they wait for the rescue, the storm is getting worse and there are fears rescuers won’t be able to reach them quickly.

In January, climbers rescued a French mountaineer stranded on a Himalayan peak but called off efforts to retrieve a Polish climber who was declared dead after a dramatic rescue effort.

Elisabeth Revol and Tomasz Mackiewicz were climbing Nanga Parbat, the ninth highest peak in the world at 8,126 metres, but called for help.

Four volunteers from a separate Polish expedition set out to find them and managed to reach Revol, a renowned mountaineer who was suffering from frostbite on her feet and could not walk.

Poor weather prevented the team from reaching Mackiewicz, who had snow blindness and altitude sickness.

Austrian mountaineer Christian Huber posing for a photograph, in Hunza, Pakistan. Picture: Higher Ground Expeditions via AP

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Five Fun Toronto-Area Crags for Canada Day

Toronto is positioned between a number of great climbing areas and spring is the perfect time to leave the city to explore local rock.

Below are five great crags to visit early season once the temperatures start creeping up.

Beware most places have a top-roping ban which means you can only lead routes to establish top-ropes from bolts or gear. Visit the Ontario Access Coalition here for more info on Ontario climbing.

A: Mount Nemo

Mount Nemo is one of the largest crags in Ontario stretching a number of kilometres as part of the Niagara Escarpment.

There is still a lot of development on the go towards the south, but the north walls have been seeing climbers since the 1970s.

It can be seen from far away and the few from the tops of the climbs shouldn’t be missed. The routes are mostly north-facing so bring a layer for early season climbing when the friction is good.

Two of the better walls for new climbers are Big Gulp Area and Camel Wall. Good early season sport climbs include: Judy’s on the Drug Squad 5.9, Wasp in Space 5.10b and Palm Sunday 5.11b.

Time from Toronto: One hour and 20 minutes.

Mount Nemo

B: Rattlesnake

There’s no doubt that most climbers from Ontario have visited Rattlesnake Point at some time or another.

There’s a lot of anchor bolts for top-roping, some fun sport routes and classic trad climbs. There are numbers painted at the base of many of the climbs and start at the west end.

The south-facing crag is great for early spring and heats up early in the morning.

Rattlesnake is divided into West Cliff and East Cliff and some good trad routes include: The Pinnacle 5.7, Dreams 5.5 and Roly’s Route 5.8.

Time from Toronto: One hour and 25 minutes.

Rattlesnake Point

C: Buffalo Crag

Located in Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area, Buffalo Crag is less busy than the nearby Rattlesnake walls.

While the routes aren’t as long as nearby crags, the climbing is on good rock and the routes are high-quality.

There’s lots of easy top-rope setups with easy cliff access. Bring extra webbing or static rope to help make anchors.

The routes are almost all trad or top-rope and some classics include Orange Wall 5.9, Boa Constrictor 5.4 and Abyss 5.10b.

Time from Toronto: One hour and 25 minutes.

Buffalo Crag

D: Bottle Glass

Bottle Glass is a short cliff also in Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area and while the wall is only about 15 metres, there are some worthwhile sport and trad routes.

It’s a great place to learn about trad climbing as most of the routes have bolted anchors and good gear.

The base of the cliff can often have garbage and beer bottles from parties on top.

Be sure to check out Captain Cave Man 5.10b sport, Furry Critters 5.7 trad and Made in the Shade 5.8 top-rope.

Time from Toronto: One hour and 25 minutes.

Bottle Glass

E: Kelso

A great trad climbing crag with solid limestone and an easy approach and many moderate routes.

There are a few sport routes that range from good to great. You can walk to the top of the cliff up a trail to the east.

Most routes don’t have bolts at the top so be prepared to build anchors.

Corner Buttress is a great place to get started and is over 20 metres tall. Check out the two-pitch Jolly Roger at 5.5.

Time from Toronto: One hour and 25 minutes.


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How to Check Outdoor Climbing Bolts for Safety

Climbing in a gym is different than climbing outdoors in a number of ways, one being indoor bolts are in a controlled space and checked regularly.

Outdoor bolts differ from area to area and are almost always drilled by different climbers.

A rusty expansion bolts.

There are a number of types of bolts, but most fall under the categories of expansion or glue-in.

While popular crag routes have enough traffic that loose or broken bolts are discovered and replaced, untraveled and rarely-climbed lines might have bolts that are not safe to fall on.

A few reminders for summer are to bring a wrench to tighten any loose bolts and to have a few extra hangers to add to hanger-less bolts in the rock.

Watch these two short videos about how to check to see if bolts are safe.

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Quebec K2 Expedition: Heavy Snows Force Wait Game

Avalanche on K2

Quebec climber Nathalie Fortin, Benoît Lamoureux, Serge Dessureault and Maurice Beauséjour have reached camp one on K2 at 6,100 metres and report that the mountain is covered in fresh snow.

The four Canadian climbers are hoping to make history as the first Quebec climbers to reach the summimt of the world’s second highest peak.

The new snow has forced them back to base camp instead of heading up House Chimney at 6,500 metres.

On social media, they wrote, “Last night it snowed a foot and the weather is calling for a lot more snow, but we will stay at base camp and wait it out.

“K2 is far too loaded with unstable snow and is too dangerous. It looks like a time bomb for climbers right now.

“Yesterday, we counted seven avalanches and today, Friday, there have been six so far. The ground vibrates with each one.

“We will have to wait for a number of days for the fresh snow to clear out. For now, it’s a waiting game.”

Watch an avalanche from 2016 in a video taken by Ngaa Tenji Sherpa.

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Watch Highlights from 2017 Villars Lead World Cup

Anouck Jaubert at 2017 Villars World Cup

The 2017 Villars IFSC Lead World Cup took place from July 7 to 8. There were a number of Canadians at the big event.

After Qualifications, Alannah Yip finished in 38th (28th in Speed), Becca Frangos in 39th and Em Pellerin in 52nd. For Canadian Males, Elan Jonas McRae ended Qualifications in 43rd, Jj Mah in 67th and Kyle Murdoch in 72nd.

Finals Results Male/Female
1. Romain Desgranges / Janja Garnbret
2. Domen Skofic / Mina Markovic
3. Fedir Samoilov / Anak Verhoeven

The 2018 Villars World Cup will be taking place on July 6 and 7 and so far only Lucas Uchida and Becca Frangos from Canada have registered.

Wathc 2017 highlights:

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This Ontario Surf Break is Threatened by Oil Pipeline

In early November of 2016, a strong cold front pushed down from Canada producing sustained 40mph winds, whiteout snow squalls and barreling fresh water waves on Lake Michigan.

This crew of local surfers knew the place to be, a little hidden gem up near the Mackinac bridge.

The area, however, is threatened every day by the 63 year old corroding pipeline, known as Line 5, which carries up to 23 million gallons of petroleum products through the straights of Mackinac every single day.

In some areas, the pipeline has lost upwards of 50 per cent of it wall thickness due to corrosion and improper maintenance by Enbridge.

Great Lakes surfers are concerned that this break, along with many others, will be ruined forever if the pipe bursts. Visit here for more.

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Adam Ondra Onsights Existence Mundane 5.14b in Canmore

Adam Ondra is in Canmore for the summer and has already onsighted two of the area’s classic hard routes.

Ondra onsighted Endless Summer 5.13d and bagged the first onsight of Existence Mundane 5.14b this week.

The two steep and technical climbs are up at Acephale and have been the focus of many climber’s summer projects.

Existence Mundane is an eight-bolt 20-metre test-piece which took visiting climber Alex Megos two tries. Local climber Sam Tucker recently ticked the steep climb.

Ondra is in Canmore for a few months and will be presenting at the Bow Valley Rock Fest in August, an event that sold out in a few hours.

There are two 5.15 climbs in the Bow Valley, Fight Club 5.15b and Honour and Glory 5.15 (awaiting confirmation), which Ondra will surely get on sooner than later.

When Megos was in Canada, he had a number of close calls with grizzly bears, it seems so face Ondra has luckily only run into a few tiny critters.

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The death of the other Messner

– Friday, June 29, 2018 – Updated at 11:45 p.m.

At the end of July 1970, two
very young Reinhold and Günther Messner crowned the Nanga Parbat and
they resolved for the first time the wall of Rupal the biggest precipice in
the Earth with its 4,500 meters of height. After, they faced
descent down the difficult slope of Diamir but
only one of them managed to reach the base camp.

This was a turning point in the
life of Messner : on the one hand, he shot a race that took him
all summits of the emchiles for the first time; on the other, what
involved in serious and harsh accusations to fit against those who did not
He was able to provide evidence until many years later, when appeared on
body of his brother

Today, 48 years after Günther
Messner lost his life in the Nanga Parbat, we recovered this
fragment of the book Reinhold Messner. Life of a survivor .

It all started with a bivouac in the
Merkl corridor
at an altitude of 7,800 meters. Although the wind does not
It blew hard, the night was terribly cold. We had
tried to avoid dying frozen based on continually changing
posture and to move the fingers to avoid the pain of seizure.
Impossible! We do not stick eye that night. To evade the
feeling of abandonment and that we were lost, we took refuge
in the consolation of daydreaming. But we did not manage to shake
our miserable situation
. The only thing that could have freed us
it would have been losing consciousness or dying. Maybe the
arrival in the morning.

From time to time, Günther played the
face with a gloved hand, leaned back against the wall
of rock in which we both snuggled and mumbled figures. As
if I said sensible things. Did the foolishness count? The seconds?
Whenever his exhaustion threatened to turn into apathy, he
Startled A sigh escaped her that made her clothes tremble
frost and it made me realize that he was next to me. For about
Instants seemed to be alive again.

"Everyone talks
of the heroism of death, but nobody knows what it is like "

Then, a blow of wind
shook our bivouac tent and uncovered our fear again: the fear of not
already part of this world! The next day was comparatively
best. Not because our situation during the descent by the
Diamir slope was out (conditions were really much
worse), but because when is fighting to survive you do not have
fear of the end. Then the second night arrived. Back to the plain. I, for my part,
He was too thirsty and cold to think about dying.
Günther suffered to such an extent that the only thing that consoled him was
the idea that death would end his pains.

Everyone talks
of the heroism of death, but nobody knows what it is like. It's easier to die under a
avalanche or in a crack
of glacier that freeze at night to
thirty degrees below zero, without any shelter. The eternal dream is like
a release. But by surviving that night, the
obligation to move forward. Nonetheless.

To find a way by which
we could get out of that chaos, I continued descending first . Y
I did it for the glacier basin located at the foot of the wall,
waterfalls of ice under us and barriers of seracs above. Each
I stopped more often to wait for Günther. But he did not come.

weather. I drank water from the glacier, I waited, I screamed. He was still
without appearing
. So, I undid my steps during a stretch, shouting,
but I could not see him anywhere. Silently (I was dead
of sleep and at the limit of my strength) I hoped that I was on the other side of the
seracs that I had surrounded on the left, and that he had
descended there and continued descending. We would return
find in the valley.

"We were in the
most dangerous stretch of that mountain "

Without stopping looking for you with your eyes
only moment, I descended enough to be able to see the two
paths that could have descended, but I saw no trace
some of é
l. Now, scared and confused, I struggled to come back from
new back and I saw that in the place where we had separated
for the last time an avalanche had been released . At that time of
day, between 9 and 11 in the morning, on the slopes of Diamir
avalanches fell regularly. They fell everywhere and everyone
the sizes.

I still did not imagine that my brother
I was dead, but I did know that we were in the
most dangerous stretch of that mountain. More dead than alive, after
I looked for him for hours and spent another night in the open, I crawled
Valley. I was in a kind of trance, because my brother
he had died buried by an avalanche and had already stopped
suffer, but I should not die I should not lie down. Should
get to get home.


Who can imagine the loneliness of
a man who does not dare to die because he is the only one left in
a cruel game that we call mountaineering ? It's horrible to be the only one
survivor and at the same time be forced to be. I have to continue!
Unable to think anymore, I found the first human beings. In
your empathy, agreeing that life can be more difficult
to endure that death, the peasants who found me
they remained silent, unable to show the slightest gesture of
comfort. They gave bread to the dying man, the first food he drank
in five days. That food allowed me to survive .


The tragedy of the Nanga Parbat supposed a
turning point in my life. After that I was not the
same. The dramatic descent down the Diamir slope, death
of my brother, the meeting with the first locals … were
instants dictated by the destination that were printed in my memory
more deeply than all previous experiences. And I had to
learn to live with that memory, with which others forged their
complaints And also to find a path to the future .


Memories of a survivor:


Reinhold Messner. Life of a survivor

by Reinhold Messner

Reinhold Messner, the first winner of the 14 eight-thousanders, has shown on innumerable expeditions what it is to live on the edge and survive.


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