Konstantin Stoletov comes to us with more big news from Jasper and the lifetime’s worth of new routing on Ashlar Ridge.
“Another big sport climb has been established by Edmonton team on Ashlar Ridge, Jasper,” said Stoletov.
Canadian Compressor cuts in the middle of impressive V-shaped face in the right face of the wall with the sustained headwall pitches that go at the grades of 5.11b, 5.11c, 5.11a, 5.10d and 5.11a.
“The headwall pitches do not give you any rest with nonstop moves at the 5.11 range making Canadian Compressor a must-do for any strong 5.11 climber visiting the area,” said Stoletov.
The climb consist of 11 fully bolted pitches with the total length of 317 metres ranging from 5.4 to 5.11c.
With four big sport multi-pitch climb (Good Intentions, Bad Habits / Ay Mamasita! / Rojer`s Lunch Buffet / Canadian Compressor) Ashlar Ridge becomes the closest alpine sport multi-pitch climbing area to Edmonton.
“No doubt it will be a place for endless fun, countless epics and unforgettable experiences,” said Stoletov.
Canadian Compressor is an 11-pitch 5.11c Ashlar Ridge near Jasper. You start at a rocky ledge about 50 metres right of Ay Mamasita!
Pitch 1: Traverse up and right, continue on easy, blocky rock. Belay on a small ledge, chains. (10 bolts 5.5 30m)
Pitch 2: Climb on a good rock, finishing at a small stance. Belay on a small stance, chains. (8 bolts 5.9 20m)
Pitch 3: Continue on a good easy rock. Belay on a large ledge, chains. (12 bolts 5.9 34m)
Pitch 4: Traverse right across the gully and follow the bolts up the right side of the Green Gully, than crossing the gully back left to a small stance. Belay on a small stance, chains. (7 bolts 5.6 30m)
Pitch 5: Continue on easy loose limestone, feel free to clean whatever you can if following. Belay on a good ledge under a large “wavy” overhang, chains. (8 bolts 5.6 20m)
Pitch 6: Look up and tighten your pants, fun is coming! Start climbing up and right over the cool rock waves passing the rap station, than enter the never-ending sequence of cool moves on incredibly good rock. Possibly the best pitch! Belay on a small ledge, chains. (14 bolts 5.11b 38m)
Pitch 7: Two variations exist. Either climb straight up and right or clip the first bolt, down-climb right and climb straight to the second bolt. Both ways go at 5.11c and involve intense crimping on a razor sharp holds. Continue on an easier 5.11a ground to the good ledge under a big overhang (Helmet ledge). A wind blown rock came out of nowhere during the first ascent crushing Merrik`s helmet so don’t feel relaxed. Belay on a ledge, chains. (10 bolts 5.11c 20m)
Pitch 8: Traverse up and right on somewhat suspicions but surprisingly good rock. Continue on a steep, solid face reaching the friction traverse. Traverse right and climb up the easy right facing flake to a good stance. Belay on a ledge, chains. (13 bolts 5.11a 30m)
Pitch 9: Climb back left on a good positive holds and than do a few powerful layback moves on a sharp vertical rail. Climb onto a small, exposed ledge in the middle of the limestone ocean (Mexican ledge). Have a burrito! Belay on a good ledge, chains. (13 bolts 5.10d 20m)
Pitch 10: Almost there! Start on a crimpy face, past a hollow flake (use it at your own risk) reaching the good rest ledge. Continue on an easier ground trough the “bottleneck” exiting onto a good protected ledge. Keep right for better rock on this pitch. Last bolt may be hard to see right before the station in a great rock. Clip it and finish! Belay on a good ledge, chains. (12 bolts 5.11a 30m)
Pitch 11: Finish easy well bolted pitch of 5.4, be careful topping out on loose blocks. Belay at a little step, 2 bolts. (8 bolts 5.4 30m)
Descent: Hike down the ridge. Climb can be safely rapelled from any point with 70-metre rope but it is not recommended.
Gear: 70-metre rope, helmets, 14 to 16 draws / 2 alpine draws are helpful on the pitches 4, 5 and 8.