"I always say it will be my last time in the eight thousand"

Darío Rodríguez from the base camp of Dhaulagiri.
– Thursday, May 31, 2018 – Updated at 6:23 p.m.

Sevillian of 49 years, Lina Quesada
He has been doing mountaineering and says that his predilection is
eight thousand. He has ascended on Cho Oyu, Gasherbrum II, Everest,
Broad Peak and the Manaslu
. In the middle, you have the project open
complete the Snow Leopard (the four highest peaks in
the former USSR), which has two peaks left.

This year he traveled to Dhaulagiri by
second time and the peak was again resisted as well as the rest of
expeditions We talk to her about the attempt, about her
feelings and about how he schedules his trips. Our conversation
ends with Wanda Rutkiewicz about which he read in the book
Climbers of freedom
what awoke the following reflection: "In this
life, if you do not fight for what you love, you do not do anything. "

Why the eight thousand?
It's a personal challenge. I have always been
wanted to climb mountains ever higher to know how far
the limit arrived. I made the Cho Oyu in 2005, the Gasherbrum II in
2006, the Everest for the south face in 2008, in 2014 the Broad Peak and the
last year on Manaslu . In principle it is always a sporting challenge.
I train a lot during the year in Sierra Nevada because I like to be
fit and feel strong, and in an eighthil is where I see that I can
develop all my technical and physical knowledge. As well
means to test how far I am able to get . In the past
I have also made mountains of 7,000 meters, in fact I am
doing those of Leopard of the Snows .

How is the Dhaulagiri?
It is a very technical mountain. It is the
Second time I come and still I have not been able to summit. Has
many objective dangers that make you stay in a lot of time
tension, there are continuous avalanches, many cracks, no two days
followed by good weather, there is always wind and snow. The day that is not
There is one thing is the other. You can never plan for two days sight.
Even if you have good weather information, there's always something that

"It was a hard but very beautiful experience"

How was your attempt?
We did it more out of curiosity, because
We knew that the summit day was not good, but we wanted
try it In C3, a small group of people convinced each other
to others for try to go up even knowing that we were not going to
power because there were no fixed ropes. It dawned on a very windy day and
despite everything we said, "come, at ten o'clock at night we go out and
we start to open a footprint to see where we are going ". He left
Pretty good because we all went down healthy. We reach up to 8,000

And there the wind did not let you
follow …

We were exhausted. We still had
two hours to the summit and the wind was brutal. It came from the front and
brought snow, we were all wet and covered all the
time to breathe. We make a correct decision because
we're all good . It was a hard but very beautiful experience.

How many nights did you spend in the
last camp?

We held three nights in C3 and that
It weakened us a lot physically. The people who had sherpas and
oxygen went down to field 2 after the attempt to summit, but Eva
Zarzuelo and I stayed at 3
because we had to dismantle the
store, load the equipment and we had to wait for the next day, so
that we spent three nights .

How do you remember?
It was hard, it was to open the store and
Find everything full of snow. The coat, the boots, the socks,
everything was wet. Whenever I see myself in that situation I wonder
why I do it and I say it's the last time but a few months go by
and I want to repeat it again .

"I arrive at base camp with what
put "

How do you organize your expeditions?
I am fortunate to be an officer of
the Diputación de Sevilla. The president has told me many times that
When you need permission, ask for it, they will try to do what
possible to give it to me, but, on the other hand, I have no help
. The expeditions I pay for them, I spend the year
saving to pay for them.

Do you travel every year
I try to do every year a
sietemil del Leopard of the Snows I have two left to finish, and
If I have saved more I'll go to an eight-thousander. I arrive at base camp with
position: I do not wear sherpas, oxygen, my material is very
out of phase…

What is it like to be a woman in the Himalayas?
I join the groups as if I were
one more. Generally women are physically weaker,
I realized the day we went up to C3, they usually say that we
We acclimated better but we always arrived last. We were all going
very loaded and it is logical, men are bigger and, when there
to carry a backpack of 15 kilos, they carry it better than a
woman who weighs 50. Women are physically weak, we
It costs more work.

"Wanda Rutkiewicz was a fighter"

What are you stronger?
Mentally, safe . The day we were going
At the summit it was shown that we were clear that we did not give ourselves
the return Of course, analyzing if we were at risk.

Will you go back to Dhaulagiri?
I do not think so. My goal is not to do the
Fourteen, I do them because I'm passionate . I do not think he'll come back, maybe if
I had a sponsor, but without him I do not think so.

Would you recommend any book of

Last year I read Climbers
the freedom
and I felt very identified with Wanda Rutkiewicz .
She was a fighter who had to look for life to
get medicines, supplies, visas, airline tickets.
Reading it, I realized that in this life, if you do not fight for what
you love, you do not do anything


To know more about Wanda Rutkiewicz:


Climbers of freedom

The golden age of Polish Himalayism

by Bernadette McDonald

Climbers of Freedom tells the story of a group of extraordinary Polish mountaineers -Jerzy Kukuczka, Voytek Kurtyka, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Krzysztof Wielicki, Andrzej Zawada, Artur Hajzer …- who emerged under the mantle of oppression that followed the Second World War World to become the vanguard of climbing in the Himalayas.


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