Indoor Weekly: Plastic Training for Hard Outdoor Problems

Andy Burgess is a climber from Sheffield, who has carved himself a successful climbing grade progression by combining an obsessional approach to training with an equally driven attitude to projecting.

No matter what the cost, however hard the climb seems away from Andy’s current standard, he’s prepared to stick with the process.

This is a really insightful and inspiring film looking at his journey to climb Keen Roof V13 at Raven Tor.

Burgess trains indoors on movements that are similar to those on his outdoor problem.

Film edited by Dora DC and footage filmed by Mike Watson.

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Mike Doyle Trad Climbs East Face of Monkey Face 5.13d

Canadian Mike Doyle repeated the East Face of Monkey Face 5.13d in Smith Rocks while placing all of his own gear.

Doyle might be only the fourth climber to send the climb placing his gear (and third Canadian), after Sonnie Trotter, Will Stanhope and Alex Honnold.

“I skipped all the fixed gear and placed all the gear on lead, aka the Canadian variation,” said Doyle.

“It’s really kind of contrived (the bolts are in easy climbing without good gear) but just a fun mental challenge.”

The East Face is a 45-metre finger crack originally aided back in the 1960s. It was a big deal in the 1980s when Alan Watts began freeing the moves.

Trotter made the first all-gear ascent in 2004 after working on it for seven days over two weeks before the redpoint.

He skipped all of the bolts, a piton and the first-pitch anchor and place 16 pieces of gear on lead. Trotter mentioned in 2004 that it felt like 5.14 because of the difficulty of placing all of the gear.

“It was super-strenuous to stop mid-crux, on bad feet and tiny finger locks, then try to place a small nest of gear and clip the rope in with 130 feet of rope drag,” he said.

“But I wouldn’t have it any other way. I get back so much more when I climb a route with all clean gear. My list of dream climbs just got twice as big — I think 5.14 gear climbs should be the norm, and I look forward to help making that happen.”

Watts said that the East Face of Monkey Face was the hardest route at Smith before the international scene arrived at Smith Rock.

Alan Watts on the East Face of Monkey Face in Smith Rock in 1980s

He first climbed the route in two pitches, since that’s the way the original aid climb was done. “The first pitch was 5.12c and I did it in 1983. The next year, after a whole lot of work, I freed the upper pitch, placing the gear the whole way,” Watts told in 2009 here.

“Since I had already done Grand Illusion, it was clear to me that the upper pitch was the hardest redpointed lead in the US.

“The next year I returned, doing the route in a single pitch, again without pre-placed gear. But, unfortunately, after placing every nut several times (and failing on the final bolted moves), I settled for a yo-yo ascent the day before leaving for Yosemite.”

Watts said that in some ways it was a landmark climb and in other ways it wasn’t because of the the shift to sport climbing, it wasn’t nearly as influential as the bolted routes.

In response to Trotter’s skipping Watts’s bolts, Watts said, “I soon understood that Sonnie’s avoiding the bolts wasn’t any negative reflection on my ascent.

“In an age where sport climbing dominates, it was refreshing to see someone finding a creative niche in the sport. Original thinkers always have been (and always will) be a rarity in our sport. Sonnie definitely qualifies.”

Congrats Doyle on upping the Canadian count on the East Face, not that we’re keeping score.

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Watch Alex Puccio on New Base Line V14

Alex Puccio on New Base Line V14 / watch below

During her 2017 comp circuit, Alex Puccio made a quick trip to Switzerland to take a crack at Bernd Zangerl’s burly testpiece, New Base Line V14 in Magic Wood.

Looking fit and psyched as ever, Alex took down both New Base Line and the power endurance classic Riverbed, V13.

Fun fact, Alex is the fourth woman in history to climb V14 with her ascent of Jade in 2014. New Base Line is her third of four V14s including Jade, Wheel of Chaos, New Base Line and Penrose Step.

Puccio is one of the most accomplished American comp climbers. She has won the ABS National Championship 10 times and is the top American female bouldering competitor at the IFSC world competitions.

She has earned numerous medals in the bouldering World Cup events including a gold medal at the 2009 World Cup held in Vail, Colorado.

In 2014, she earned a gold medal at the Arco Rockmaster event and a silver medal in the World Championships for bouldering.

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Signs Your Life Partner Can’t Handle You Climbing

In a recent article by Jason Hayes in the New Yorker, a number of points are made about how to cope with someone who is starting to climb.

The article is called Warning Signs That Your Partner Is Getting Into Rock Climbing, and How to Cope and points to a number of ways to change the subject from climbing.

If you’re partner can’t handle climbing, best to get out now before the two-month road trips start, the ice climbing gear starts piling up and you start spending nights on mountains with other people.

Who wants to be with someone who doesn’t climb anyway?

Early Clues

The very first warning signs that your partner isn’t into you getting into rock climbing can be hard to spot. It may start with them turning down a chance to go to the climbing gym. Don’t take this lightly, they don’t realize this isn’t like some other trend, this is a lifestyle change. If they don’t want to be on your train, best let them off now. When they try to bring something else up, just say, “I’m moving into the car, you’re either in or your out.”

Eye Contact

If you just got back from the climbing gym, be sure to make eye contact. Eye contact will lead to a conversation about climbing. Be sure to start the talk with something benign, like “it’s scary!” The more you talk about climbing the better you’ll get at it. And talking about climbing is one of the best parts about being a climber. Be sure to panamine the moves while explaining what you did, “Then I gastoned up to the undercling and smeared my right foot to the edge before making a desperate clip.”

The Videos

As things progress, you’ll want to be sweaty and hunched over a laptop, watching videos of people screaming. “Please be pornography,” they’ll think. “Please.” But, no, it’s a video of Adam Ondra working on Silence 5.15d in Norway and talking about his “journey.” If they ask what is so special about someone climbing a rock in Norway, close your laptop and leave.

New Friends

You and your partner used to have mutual friends. You all could get drinks and talk about television or your bosses, like “normal” people. Now you spend your time with flip flop wearing, car living strong people who have tools to file their calluses and more tight climbing shoes than fancy “goin out” foot wear. Your new friends will want to spend more time climbing than talking about television shows. When your partner brings up the that you’re hanging around with bums, hit the road.

Callus Exams

Callus exams are an important part of the climber’s day. When not at the climbing gym, you should be raptly gazing at your hands—the way comic-book villains do when they acquire a new power. Be sure to show your calluses off to your partner. Hold up your hands, both of them, and say, “Look how rough my hands are, you like them rough, right?” Every scratch on your hand has a story to tell, share those stories with everyone.

Be Outdoorsy

The climbing gym is a great place to get started, but don’t stop there. Just because you never liked being outdoors and your partner would rather sit in a coffee shop all weekend, doesn’t mean you shouldn’t start being more outdoorsy. By now, your partner will be starting to understand what a huge life transformation you’re going through. They might try to shrink your favourite T-shirt in the dryer, but that’s a good thing because you’ve trimmed down since going vertical.

The Climbing Gym

If you really want to know if your partner can hack it then take them to the climbing gym. Once they let their guard down then you’re in and they can begin to embrace the sport of climbing. Hopefully they get distracted by the man who, in this climate-controlled warehouse, is wearing a wool beanie but no shirt. It’s confusing to outsiders but they can’t look away and want to be part of whatever world he belongs to. Once your partner starts climbing, get your new friends to cheer them on to the top. If your partner comes down with a smile then you have a road trip buddy. If they come down and say, “It’s scary, I’m done,” then you know what to do.

Climbing couple Jacob Cook and Bronwyn Hodgins

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"I always say it will be my last time in the eight thousand"

Darío Rodríguez from the base camp of Dhaulagiri.
– Thursday, May 31, 2018 – Updated at 6:23 p.m.

Sevillian of 49 years, Lina Quesada
He has been doing mountaineering and says that his predilection is
eight thousand. He has ascended on Cho Oyu, Gasherbrum II, Everest,
Broad Peak and the Manaslu
. In the middle, you have the project open
complete the Snow Leopard (the four highest peaks in
the former USSR), which has two peaks left.

This year he traveled to Dhaulagiri by
second time and the peak was again resisted as well as the rest of
expeditions We talk to her about the attempt, about her
feelings and about how he schedules his trips. Our conversation
ends with Wanda Rutkiewicz about which he read in the book
Climbers of freedom
what awoke the following reflection: "In this
life, if you do not fight for what you love, you do not do anything. "

Why the eight thousand?
It's a personal challenge. I have always been
wanted to climb mountains ever higher to know how far
the limit arrived. I made the Cho Oyu in 2005, the Gasherbrum II in
2006, the Everest for the south face in 2008, in 2014 the Broad Peak and the
last year on Manaslu . In principle it is always a sporting challenge.
I train a lot during the year in Sierra Nevada because I like to be
fit and feel strong, and in an eighthil is where I see that I can
develop all my technical and physical knowledge. As well
means to test how far I am able to get . In the past
I have also made mountains of 7,000 meters, in fact I am
doing those of Leopard of the Snows .

How is the Dhaulagiri?
It is a very technical mountain. It is the
Second time I come and still I have not been able to summit. Has
many objective dangers that make you stay in a lot of time
tension, there are continuous avalanches, many cracks, no two days
followed by good weather, there is always wind and snow. The day that is not
There is one thing is the other. You can never plan for two days sight.
Even if you have good weather information, there's always something that

"It was a hard but very beautiful experience"

How was your attempt?
We did it more out of curiosity, because
We knew that the summit day was not good, but we wanted
try it In C3, a small group of people convinced each other
to others for try to go up even knowing that we were not going to
power because there were no fixed ropes. It dawned on a very windy day and
despite everything we said, "come, at ten o'clock at night we go out and
we start to open a footprint to see where we are going ". He left
Pretty good because we all went down healthy. We reach up to 8,000

And there the wind did not let you
follow …

We were exhausted. We still had
two hours to the summit and the wind was brutal. It came from the front and
brought snow, we were all wet and covered all the
time to breathe. We make a correct decision because
we're all good . It was a hard but very beautiful experience.

How many nights did you spend in the
last camp?

We held three nights in C3 and that
It weakened us a lot physically. The people who had sherpas and
oxygen went down to field 2 after the attempt to summit, but Eva
Zarzuelo and I stayed at 3
because we had to dismantle the
store, load the equipment and we had to wait for the next day, so
that we spent three nights .

How do you remember?
It was hard, it was to open the store and
Find everything full of snow. The coat, the boots, the socks,
everything was wet. Whenever I see myself in that situation I wonder
why I do it and I say it's the last time but a few months go by
and I want to repeat it again .

"I arrive at base camp with what
put "

How do you organize your expeditions?
I am fortunate to be an officer of
the Diputación de Sevilla. The president has told me many times that
When you need permission, ask for it, they will try to do what
possible to give it to me, but, on the other hand, I have no help
. The expeditions I pay for them, I spend the year
saving to pay for them.

Do you travel every year
I try to do every year a
sietemil del Leopard of the Snows I have two left to finish, and
If I have saved more I'll go to an eight-thousander. I arrive at base camp with
position: I do not wear sherpas, oxygen, my material is very
out of phase…

What is it like to be a woman in the Himalayas?
I join the groups as if I were
one more. Generally women are physically weaker,
I realized the day we went up to C3, they usually say that we
We acclimated better but we always arrived last. We were all going
very loaded and it is logical, men are bigger and, when there
to carry a backpack of 15 kilos, they carry it better than a
woman who weighs 50. Women are physically weak, we
It costs more work.

"Wanda Rutkiewicz was a fighter"

What are you stronger?
Mentally, safe . The day we were going
At the summit it was shown that we were clear that we did not give ourselves
the return Of course, analyzing if we were at risk.

Will you go back to Dhaulagiri?
I do not think so. My goal is not to do the
Fourteen, I do them because I'm passionate . I do not think he'll come back, maybe if
I had a sponsor, but without him I do not think so.

Would you recommend any book of

Last year I read Climbers
the freedom
and I felt very identified with Wanda Rutkiewicz .
She was a fighter who had to look for life to
get medicines, supplies, visas, airline tickets.
Reading it, I realized that in this life, if you do not fight for what
you love, you do not do anything


To know more about Wanda Rutkiewicz:


Climbers of freedom

The golden age of Polish Himalayism

by Bernadette McDonald

Climbers of Freedom tells the story of a group of extraordinary Polish mountaineers -Jerzy Kukuczka, Voytek Kurtyka, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Krzysztof Wielicki, Andrzej Zawada, Artur Hajzer …- who emerged under the mantle of oppression that followed the Second World War World to become the vanguard of climbing in the Himalayas.


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Go for a Hike for International Trails Day 2018

Hiking in the Canadian Rockies

International Trails Day is a day dedicated to celebrate trails, their development, uses and the healthy lifestyle they encourage.

For many years now North America has traditionally celebrated a trails day on the first Saturday in June.

Here are four ways to enjoy this year’s International Trails Day.

Go Hike

Maybe hike a trail you haven’t done before or maybe an area that you don’t often go to.

Canada has countless kilometres of world-class trails, from the west coast’s coastal terrain to the Rockies steep paths to the prairies big sky walks to Ontario and Quebec’s lake-view trails to the east coast’s Atlantic rambles.

Volunteer for Maintenance

It’s easy to forget that the trails you hike are no clear all year and someone goes through to remove debris, trim over-growth, repair bridges, etc.

These are usually volunteers who plan trail maintenance outings several times a year. There are lots of organizations to volunteer with so search online and get to work.

Introduce Hiking to Someone

Take someone hiking who has never been hiking before. Don’t take them on too challenging of a route but something fun with several points of interest and make a day out of it.

Donate to Search and Rescue

Donate to one of the many Search and Rescue (SAR) organizations who are run by volunteers and save numerous lives each year.

Hiking in Gros Morne National Park

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Sarah Hart is Chasing Grades and Sends First 5.13c

Sarah Hart is a great all-round climber with big ascents in the alpine and on hard trad routes and she is now turning her sights on hard sport climbs.

On Instagram, she announced that she has climbed Strange Days 5.13c on Forgotten Wall at Cheakamus.

“By all accounts it’s a junky route and a grade that doesn’t mean much on the grand scheme of things. But for working stiffs everywhere it was a coup,” said Hart.

“I could literally drive my car to the base of it after racing to the crag after work and it’s one more tick in the boxes of things I want to get done before adult life gets the better of me.

“I feel pretty ok with admitting that at 38, this girl is definitely chasing grades. I want to send 5.14, it’s that simple. Will I get there? Well I’ll be freaking damned if I don’t give it my very best effort.”

Photographer Fernando Lessa was there to capture this great image of Hart on Strange Days.

Strange Days is a 22-metre 11 bolt route with a mix of technical and burly ones.

In 2013 with Colin Haley, Hart made the first ascent of the West Face of Mojon Rojo via their 700-metre El Zorro 5.10, A1.

In Canada with Haley, she made the first ascent of the 900-metre mixed route Sashimi Don in 2014.

Hart is from Newmarket, Ontario, and started climbing on the limestone bluffs of the Niagara Escarpment. She’s now based on the West Coast.

Watch this short 2018 video from MEC featuring Hart.

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Shauna Coxsey and the Five Ten Anasazi Pro

Shauna Coxsey and the Five Ten Anasazi Pro

Two-time World Cup Bouldering Champion, Shauna Coxsey, helped develop the Five Ten Anasazi Pro climbing shoes.

The British-born athlete is known for bouldering and competitive climbing. She’s a training fanatic who does Cross-Fit in her spare time and climbs both indoors and out.

Coxsey was young when she got hooked on climbing. At four years old, she watched a TV show about Catherine Destiville, who at the time was arguably the most famous female climber in Europe.

The program was about Destiville’s trip to Mali, with hauntingly beautiful footage of some of the most unusual rock formations in the world.

Mesmerized by the footage, Shauna accompanied a group of fellow preschoolers to a local climbing wall. Within a few weeks, she demanded that her dad learn to belay. “I was hooked,” she says.

In 2002, Coxsey was attending a competition at a tiny English climbing gym, and she came across a pair of small Five Ten rock shoes. “We found a pair of tiny 5.10’s in a small sports shop and they fit!” she said. They were her first pair of Five Ten shoes.

Shauna Coxsey with Five Ten Anasazi Pro

By the time she was in her early teens, Coxsey’s competitive climbing career took off. She started working on hard boulder problems and soon racked up an impressive list of difficult ascents. Her shoe of choice was the Five Ten Anasazi LV (low volume), Five Ten’s premier women’s specific model.

Eventually, her friend and climbing partner, Ned, speculated that a climbing shoe with with a sticky-rubber toe cap would help Coxsey cling to overhangs and gain purchase on barely-there rock crystals.

As the Five Ten Anasazi LV fit Coxsey’s foot, they started experimenting with shoe “hacks” to adjust the tried-n-true design to fit her competition needs. “My shoes certainly give me more confidence,” relates Coxsey.

They started by adding Stealth rubber patches over the top of Coxsey’s Anasazi LV’s. Then they talked to Five Ten’s footwear design team about their ideas.

The result? The Anasazi Pro, with high-friction Mi6 rubber that was originally created by Five Ten for dare-devil stunts in the Mission Impossible movie franchise.

“Mi6 is so soft and sticky. It’s perfect for toe hooks. Stealth C4 is a bit stiffer and works way better on edges without compromising its ability to smear on volumes,” said Coxsey.

“I think it’s really important that we keep developing new products and improving them. I think it’s great that companies like Five Ten reach out to athletes for feedback and design input. After all, we’re spending such a significant amount of time on the wall and we are passionate about performance.”

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Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold, new speed record in 'The Nose'

Thursday, May 31, 2018 – Updated at 10: 40h.

2 hours, 10 minutes and 15 seconds this
is the new best brand in The Nose the mythical way to
Captain of Yosemite that, as it says this video "has always been
a magnet for ambitious dreamers, to move the limits more
beyond what is possible. " On this occasion, the protagonists have been
Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold (who held the record since 2012
but he lost it a few months ago).

"Tommy and I have climbed today
The Nose in 2 h 10 min 15 s !! Feel great! ", Counted
Honnold in his Instagram account. "We have scaled eight times in
the last weeks
". A few days ago, while they tested it, their
partner joked about the advantages of climbing so fast this
historical route of 900 meters, 30 lengths and difficulties of up to 8b + :
"The best of climbing the Captain in two and a half hours (this is
our best brand so far) is that it leaves a lot of free time
to spend time with the family. "

On October 21st, the
climbers Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds got the best mark
until then with a time of 2 hours 19 minutes and 44 seconds and you
took the achievement to Alex Honnold and Hans Florine, who in June
2012 they managed to solve the challenge in 2 hours, 23 minutes and 46

The evolution of The record

1958: 12 days in the final attempt, by
Wayne, George and Warren (45 work days spread over 18 months,
as the video says).

1960: 7 days, by Joe Fitchsen, Tom
Frost, Chuck Pratt and Royal Robbins.

1963: 3 and a half days, by Layton Kor,
Steve Roper and Glenn Denny.

1967: 3 days, by Jim Madsen and Kim

1968: 2 and a half days, by Jim Madsen and
Mike Covington.

1974: 1 day and a half, by Ray Jardina and
Chick Holtcamp.

1975: 17 hours 40 minutes, by Billy
Westbay, Jim Bridwell and John Long.

1978: 15 hours, by Mike Lechlinski and
John Bachar.

1979: Less than 13 hours, by Thierry

1984: 10 hours 47 minutes, by Dave
Shultz and John Middendorf.

1986: 10 hours 5 minutes, by John
Bastard and Peter Croft.

1988: 9 hours 20 minutes, by Xavier
Bongard and Romain Vogler.

1990: 8 hours 6 minutes, by Steve
Schneider and Hans Florine.

1990: 6 hours 40 minutes, by Dave
Shultz and Peter Croft.

1991: 6 hours 1 minute, Andres Puhvel and
Hans Florine.

1991: 4 hours 48 minutes, by Dave
Shultz and Peter Croft.

1992: 4 hours 22 minutes, by Peter
Croft and Hans Florine.

2001: 3 hours 59 minutes 35 seconds,
by Timmy Oneil and Dean Potter.

2001: 3 hours 57 minutes 27 seconds,
by Jim Herson and Hans Florine.

2001: 3 hours 24 minutes 20 seconds,
by Timmy Oneil and Dean Potter.

2002: 2 hours 48 minutes 50 seconds,
by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine.

2007: 2 hours 48 minutes 35 seconds,
by Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber.

2007: 2 hours 45 minutes 45 seconds,
by Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber.

2008: 2 hours 43 minutes 33 seconds,
by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine.

2010: 2 hours 36 minutes 45 seconds,
by Sean Leary and Dean Potter.

2012: 2 hours 23 minutes 46 seconds,
by Alex Honnold and Hans Florine .

2017: 2 hours 19 minutes 44 seconds,
by Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds .

2018: 2 hours 10 minutes 15 seconds,
by Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell.


Integral only:


Only on the wall

by Alex Honnold

«The exploits of Alex Honnold are amazing, they make your hair stand on end. Reading his ascents left me physically touched. However, as this fascinating book makes clear, Honnold is neither crazy nor reckless. 'Solo en la pared' reveals him as a completely unique and extremely interesting young man. »(Jon Krakauer)


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Top American Alpinist Talks About Transgender Life

Jamie Logan on Dream On 5.11c/d Photo Julie Ellison

One of the most referred to names in the world of Canadian alpine climbing is that of Jim Logan, who made the first ascent of the Emperor Face with Mugs Stump back in 1978.

Logan had a number of important accomplishments in the world of climbing, such as climbing Grand Giraffe 5.10a in Colorado for the state’s first use of passive pro, first ascent of Gross/Logan 5.11R in Black Canyon, second American ascent of the Eiger’s north face, climbing the Diamond on Long’s Peak free in 1975 with Wayne Gross and making the first free ascent of the three-pitch 5.10d offwidth Crack of Fear, a redpoint of Sonic Youth 5.13a in 2007 and many more.

When Steve House repeated the crux of The Logan/Stump on Mount Robson’s Emperor Face, he said it was M8.

In 2017, Climbing ran a piece by Julie Ellison about Logan’s transition to being a woman.

And this month, Chris Weidner wrote a piece for the Daily Camera (read here) and said, “Logan is a successful architect with four children and a partner, Sherry Wiggins, with whom she’s shared 36 years.

“While her physical transition didn’t really start until 2014, a series of cautious, incremental steps toward womanhood began more than 20 years ago when she started wearing her partner’s clothing around the house.”

In Ellison’s 2014 interview, she asked ‘How would you explain this to those who might not understand?’ To which Logan responded with, “The whole boy/girl dichotomy is really false. A lot of people live in the gender spectrum, and there’s a lot of in between. There are people who are way boyish of girl, and I’m way girlish of boy. But we all navigate somewhere in this Neverland.

“I’ll never have the experiences that a young woman did, and that’s fine. Sometimes when I’m on jobsites and I’m explaining how I want the concrete done, I get pretty boyish. But then again, when I arrive on a jobsite carrying something heavy, the Mexican concrete guys will run over and carry it for me.

“It’s part of their culture. Or when I’m in a meeting at work and it’s busy, people will slip back into saying “he.” I don’t get upset, and I don’t expect people to gender-parse their stuff when all we really care about is [getting the work done].”

And Weidner concluded his piece with, “I’m still awed and motivated by her 1970s climbing résumé. But I’ve learned so much more about courage, risk-taking, self-worth and love through her transition than I ever have through her climbing career as ‘the man.’

“‘If you feel good about yourself and you can look people in the eye and smile, they don’t care about anything else,’ said Logan. ‘I was able to get to a place where I’m truly at peace with myself. I feel happier than I’ve ever been.’”

When Ellison asked Logan about past ascents, Logan said, “When I was climbing, I was climbing. There was no gender stuff; there was just the next pitch. When you’re on something hard and scary, there’s a rule—you gotta take your pitch. You think, ‘How hard is it going to be? Is there going to be protection? What am I going to do up there?’

“And gender doesn’t make any difference. When I was climbing, I was just climbing. It was the rest of my life that was confusing.”

The rest of life is confusing for many of us climbers, so let’s all keep climbing while letting our hearts, souls and minds lead the way.

Jim Logan in 1978 on Emperor Face Photo Mugs Stump

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