A year without Ueli Steck

Ana Torres / DESNIVEL
– Monday, April 30, 2018 – Updated at 3:55 p.m.

Today, April 30, the first
anniversary of the death of Ueli Steck (1976-2017) who died the
last spring in an accident while climbing the Nuptse in
lonely. This was not his main project of the season, but
complete the first crossing Everest-Lhotse without oxygen, objective
for the one who acclimated when the unfortunate mishap occurred.

The mountain community remembers today the
figure of this sportsman who distinguished himself for his projects
avant-garde within the reach of very few and, among all the messages,
highlights his family, who has published a letter addressed "to
the friends of Ueli Steck "and that he has titled One year has passed :

"Today, a year ago, Ueli did not return
from one of his acclimatization outings in his beloved mountains of
Himalayas. It has been difficult for us to accept that he died. You
we miss a lot and we always have it in our

At the same time, we are grateful
to know how many people Ueli inspired during his life, and from what he,
In some way, keep alive through them. We appreciate your
support, understanding and the help we have received since he left us.
Thank you for the love and affection that you have given us in these months in
We have had to say goodbye and let it go. Always
we will remember Ueli with gratitude and joy. "

"There was
returned home with a mountain achievement, but I had not
behaved correctly "

Ueli Steck had a mountain life in
practical sense, but also in the symbolic, because the
unevenness that generates success and public exposure happened to him
bill. His were the speed records in the north of
peak that climbed 41 times and where it refined its peculiar
Mountaineering style against the chronometer. His was the north of
(6,500 m) in alpine style with Simon Anthamatten in
2008, which earned him his first Gold Piolet. And his was, between
other achievements, the outstanding and controversial South Annapurna in
loner, who signed in 2013 in an express attack of 28 hours with the
who deserved, again, a Golden Piolet.

"During the ascent to the South face
Annapurna had broken with my life. That conclusion was a
shock . Recalling, I found it inconceivable how I could
have assumed so much risk . He had agreed to die. That, that when
I was on the wall, it had given me enormous strength and will,
now it made me dust, "he wrote in the book The next step ,
that has just published Ediciones Desnivel.

The paragraph continues: "There were
returned home with a mountain achievement, but I had not
behaved correctly How had it reached that state of
quasi trance? And [mi pareja] Nicole and my family? Where was the
that I had with them? "

mental control he knew how to handle on the mountain was out of control
at home

The tight time of that
activity and the lack of photos of summit sparked a controversy that
It reduced the inner world of Ueli, who was already upset after the
violent encounter with some sherpas on Everest a few months
before: "What might explain why it had been so
Reckless [en el Annapurna] was the experience I had on Everest.
The events of spring had shaken me
deeply, and had lost faith in the goodness of the human being. "

Ueli got ascents that left
footprint in the mountain community and that earned him the nickname of
Swiss Machine . His method, as he recognized when talking about Annapurna,
was to detach from the outside world and think only in the present
Immediate, in each piolet hit, in narrowing the field of vision
and contemplate the world as through a tube where only mattered
that concrete escalation

"I was about to commit a great
error and allow the outside world to invade my thinking. Me
I consciously controlled and repressed this attitude. In situations
like that emotions can be deadly, "he wrote to
remember a moment of weakness when descending from Annapurna . But
mental control he knew how to handle on the mountain was out of control
at home, where fame, criticism, family responsibility and
Sports anxiety ate away during seasons.

"I can not imagine a life without mountaineering"

The details of their climbs remained
in specialized magazines and in their public appearances; the
of his feelings, in the books: since his death they have
published three volumes in Spanish, Speed ​​ 8,000 + and
The next step . Especially the latter served him
as therapy to order personal ghosts and find a
refocusing that is seen in paragraphs like this:

"Something had happened again, again
people had died. Nicole also had difficulty accepting the fact
that our "rest trip" [al Sisha Pangma] would have ended
with a negative experience. Why would not we do something that does not
Was it dangerous? Why did not we go on vacation to the beach? Do not
Should we stop with all this? But, even though Nicole
practice mountaineering at a level different from mine we agreed
in which both mountaineering gave us beautiful experiences and
intense, gave us something that could never give us a vacation in
the beach. I can not imagine a life without mountaineering. "

Crossing Everest-Lhotse

Souvenir messages in the
anniversary of Ueli's death coincide with the presence of two
in the Himalayas who are going to try the project that he could not
conclude. A few days ago, the photographer and camera Jon Griffith
I wrote a memo post on their social networks.

"Two years ago I came up with the
crazy idea to broadcast live and Ueli Seck's project in the
Everest-Lhotse crossing and record it in 3D. It is, without a doubt, the
more ambitious production that I have tried to move forward, and
I'm very excited to be recording Ueli's partner today, Tenji
who is trying to finish what he started and with his
same style. I feel like a tribute to one of my friends more
close and as a way to take the Nepalese climber community
to the first line. "

This morning, Reinhold Messner was
he referred to them in his column in the Italian newspaper Gazzetta dello
and also mentioned the other team trying to get it
this year: "Ueli was preparing to try the crossing
Everest_Lhotse Now it's Tenji Sherpa's project, which should
to have been Ueli's partner in that great adventure. A challenge
also in the Romanian program Horia Colibasanu and the Slovakian
Peter Hamor. The ill-fated Steck will certainly be remembered this year, "
he wrote.


The legacy of Ueli Steck is in the books:


 Book cover "el =" "next =" "step =" "by =" "karin =" "steinbach =" "y =" "ueli =" "steck =" "src =" http : //static.desnivel.com/images/2018/04/09/el-siguiente-paso_ueli_steck.jpg "style =" width: 150px; height: 230px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; margin: 5px; float: left; "/> </p>
<p> The next step. </p>
<p> <em> by Karin Steinbach and Ueli Steck </em> </p>
<p> In this book he narrates in an intimate and sincere way not only his most recent sensational escalations before his death, but also how he lived and assimilated the setbacks, and how he found again the motivation to optimize his training method. Thus he was able to achieve new achievements, such as the ascension of the 82 quadromets of the Alps in just 62 days or set a new speed record on the North face of the Eiger. </p>
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