Today, April 30, the first
anniversary of the death of Ueli Steck (1976-2017) who died the
last spring in an accident while climbing the Nuptse in
lonely. This was not his main project of the season, but
complete the first crossing Everest-Lhotse without oxygen, objective
for the one who acclimated when the unfortunate mishap occurred.
The mountain community remembers today the
figure of this sportsman who distinguished himself for his projects
avant-garde within the reach of very few and, among all the messages,
highlights his family, who has published a letter addressed "to
the friends of Ueli Steck "and that he has titled One year has passed :
"Today, a year ago, Ueli did not return
from one of his acclimatization outings in his beloved mountains of
Himalayas. It has been difficult for us to accept that he died. You
we miss a lot and we always have it in our
At the same time, we are grateful
to know how many people Ueli inspired during his life, and from what he,
In some way, keep alive through them. We appreciate your
support, understanding and the help we have received since he left us.
Thank you for the love and affection that you have given us in these months in
We have had to say goodbye and let it go. Always
we will remember Ueli with gratitude and joy. "
returned home with a mountain achievement, but I had not
behaved correctly "
Ueli Steck had a mountain life in
practical sense, but also in the symbolic, because the
unevenness that generates success and public exposure happened to him
bill. His were the speed records in the north of
Eiger peak that climbed 41 times and where it refined its peculiar
Mountaineering style against the chronometer. His was the north of
Tengkampoche (6,500 m) in alpine style with Simon Anthamatten in
2008, which earned him his first Gold Piolet. And his was, between
other achievements, the outstanding and controversial South Annapurna in
loner, who signed in 2013 in an express attack of 28 hours with the
who deserved, again, a Golden Piolet.
"During the ascent to the South face
Annapurna had broken with my life. That conclusion was a
shock . Recalling, I found it inconceivable how I could
have assumed so much risk . He had agreed to die. That, that when
I was on the wall, it had given me enormous strength and will,
now it made me dust, "he wrote in the book The next step ,
that has just published Ediciones Desnivel.
The paragraph continues: "There were
returned home with a mountain achievement, but I had not
behaved correctly How had it reached that state of
quasi trance? And [mi pareja] Nicole and my family? Where was the
responsibility that I had with them? "
mental control he knew how to handle on the mountain was out of control
The tight time of that
activity and the lack of photos of summit sparked a controversy that
It reduced the inner world of Ueli, who was already upset after the
violent encounter with some sherpas on Everest a few months
before: "What might explain why it had been so
Reckless [en el Annapurna] was the experience I had on Everest.
The events of spring had shaken me
deeply, and had lost faith in the goodness of the human being. "
Ueli got ascents that left
footprint in the mountain community and that earned him the nickname of
Swiss Machine . His method, as he recognized when talking about Annapurna,
was to detach from the outside world and think only in the present
Immediate, in each piolet hit, in narrowing the field of vision
and contemplate the world as through a tube where only mattered
that concrete escalation .
"I was about to commit a great
error and allow the outside world to invade my thinking. Me
I consciously controlled and repressed this attitude. In situations
like that emotions can be deadly, "he wrote to
remember a moment of weakness when descending from Annapurna . But
mental control he knew how to handle on the mountain was out of control
at home, where fame, criticism, family responsibility and
Sports anxiety ate away during seasons.
"I can not imagine a life without mountaineering"
The details of their climbs remained
in specialized magazines and in their public appearances; the
of his feelings, in the books: since his death they have
published three volumes in Spanish, Speed 8,000 + and
The next step . Especially the latter served him
as therapy to order personal ghosts and find a
refocusing that is seen in paragraphs like this:
"Something had happened again, again
people had died. Nicole also had difficulty accepting the fact
that our "rest trip" [al Sisha Pangma] would have ended
with a negative experience. Why would not we do something that does not
Was it dangerous? Why did not we go on vacation to the beach? Do not
Should we stop with all this? But, even though Nicole
practice mountaineering at a level different from mine we agreed
in which both mountaineering gave us beautiful experiences and
intense, gave us something that could never give us a vacation in
the beach. I can not imagine a life without mountaineering. "
Souvenir messages in the
anniversary of Ueli's death coincide with the presence of two
teams in the Himalayas who are going to try the project that he could not
conclude. A few days ago, the photographer and camera Jon Griffith
I wrote a memo post on their social networks.
"Two years ago I came up with the
crazy idea to broadcast live and Ueli Seck's project in the
Everest-Lhotse crossing and record it in 3D. It is, without a doubt, the
more ambitious production that I have tried to move forward, and
I'm very excited to be recording Ueli's partner today, Tenji
Sherpa who is trying to finish what he started and with his
same style. I feel like a tribute to one of my friends more
close and as a way to take the Nepalese climber community
to the first line. "
This morning, Reinhold Messner was
he referred to them in his column in the Italian newspaper Gazzetta dello
Sport and also mentioned the other team trying to get it
this year: "Ueli was preparing to try the crossing
Everest_Lhotse Now it's Tenji Sherpa's project, which should
to have been Ueli's partner in that great adventure. A challenge
also in the Romanian program Horia Colibasanu and the Slovakian
Peter Hamor. The ill-fated Steck will certainly be remembered this year, "
The legacy of Ueli Steck is in the books:
– Monday, April 30, 2018 – Updated at 11: 07h.
Some fifty climbers attended the
Saturday April 28 to Plasencia (Cáceres) to the climbing wall CerezaWall
managed by the Cano brothers, to enjoy the third and last
proof of this year's national block calendar (which has
consisting of one test less than previous years).
The semifinal was held without
setbacks, giving show with the eight blocks devised by
the expert experts Marco Jubes, Carles Brascó and Rubén López .
The public of all ages crowded the climbing wall, especially
in the finals, especially encouraging Extremadura climbers:
Javi Cano, Alejandro Crespo, Pablo Rodriguez, Antia Freitas or
Elisabet Puertas or Miriam Ginés.
Four climbers got
solve all the blocks of the qualifier, ensuring their
step to the final: Francis Guillén, Maja Jonjic, Mari Alarcón and
Prudence Morgan-Wood and completed the list of finalists, with
seven blocks resuletos: Irantzu Porres, Itziar Zabala, Elba Pérez and
Antía Freitas . Among the boys, they also solved all the
blocks Javi Cano, Sergio Verdasco, Alejandro Crespo and Eric Lopez a
who also joined the finalists Beto Rocasolano, Isaac
Estevez, Samuel Calvente and Jerome González
Very tight endings
The men's final was very close,
with the first classified climbers distanced by very few
points, with what his action was decisive. Finally Sergio
Verdasco manages to solve three of the four blocks of the final and
takes the first place on the podium, completed by Eric López
(with only one difference difference with Sergio) and for Javi Cano
(resolves two blocks), who played at home.
Among the girls there were few tops ,
defining the classification by the bonuses and the bonuses.
She manages to climb to the first position of the podium the Venezuelan based in
Catalonia Francis Guillén followed by the British also
settled in Catalonia Prudence Morgan-Wood and third is the Basque
Itziar Zabala (winner of the Block Cup last year). The
variety of inclinations, dams and volumes of the climbing wall
allowed diverse, aesthetic and highly technical blocks, in which
it was essential to make a good reading .
First Cup for Rut Casas and Sergio
After the sum of the points of the three
evidence the young Catalan Rut Casas is imposed (although he could not
attend this third test, won the previous two, both in
Bilbao as in Salamanca); second in the general is Francis Guillén
and third Prudence Morgan-Wood .
Among the boys, the Madrileño Sergio
Verdasco retains first place in the general classification,
second is the Extremadura Javi Cano and third the young Basque Mikel Linacisoro
(Also absent in this test for competing in the European Youth Cup.)
In this way, the champions of the year
past, Itziar Zabala and Jhonatan Flor (who has not been able to participate in the last two tests this year due to an injury), cedes the witness to the
champions of the Spanish Cup of Block 2018: Rut Casas y Sergio
Verdasco, both debuting in this title .
Important absence of the
They could not attend the last test
of the Spanish Cup of Block favorite junior competitors to the podium as Rut
Houses, Mikel Linacisoro or Andoni Sparta (who had made a podium in
the previous tests), because the appointment coincided with the Cup of
Youth Europe of Climbing in Block . In it, by the way, the team
Spanish had good results, with four climbers going to the
final of their respective categories: Mikel Linacisoro, Alberto
Ginés, Andoni Sparta and Lluc Macià . He managed to get hold of
third place on the Andoni Esparta podium, in the Youth A category,
while Lluc ends eighth (in his second participation in a
World Cup), Mikel ninth and Alberto tenth. good results
for a promising quarry .
Overall final classification Spanish Cup of Block
1. Sergio Verdasco FMM
2. Javier Cano FEXME
3. Mikel Linacisoro EMF
1. Rut Casas FEEC
2. Francis Guillen FEEC
3. Prudence Morgan FEEC
Classification 3rd round Cup
Spain of Block (in Plasencia):
1. Sergio Verdasco Urizal FMM
2. Eric López FMM
1. Francis Guillén FEEC
2. Prudence Morgan FEEC
The calendar of competitions continues the next May 12 and 13 with the Spanish Championship of the Absolute and Youthful Block to be held at the climbing wall Climbat la Foixarda (Barcelona).
BAD STORE FIXED
Our arrival at the base camp of the
Dhaulagiri to follow the expedition of Carlos Soria has come
accompanied by a sad fact: the disappearance of the mountaineer
Italian Simone La Terra, who yesterday suffered an accident when his
Store rushed to the void. A helicopter has rescued today its
Darío Rodríguez from the base camp of Dhaulagiri
– Monday, April 30, 2018 – Updated at 09: 41h.
Rescue helicopter this morning at Dhaulagiri base camp.2018 (@ Darío Rodríguez)
Our arrival at the base camp of the
Dhaulagiri has been accompanied by a sad fact: the disappearance
of the Italian mountaineer Simone Laterra . This morning, very early (to
6 a.m.) with the base camp totally covered by fog,
The rescue helicopter has arrived. The possibilities of
finding him alive were nil, but you had to try. On
everything, for the peace of your family.
From the helicopter they have been able to see their
body, retrieve it and descend it to the base camp . Amazing the
expertise of the Nepali pilot and the Sherpas who have participated in the
rescue, because the place where the body was found has demanded
Badly fixed shop
The accident took place before yesterday
in the afternoon. Simone promoted with the Polish Waldemar Dominic and
decided to set up shop in field 3 under. Waldemar did not like it
the site and decided to keep going up.
He also did not like what he found above and decided to go down.
When I was talking to Simone, who was inside the
store, this one slipped (surely Simone had not fixed it
firmly) and fell down the very steep slope. Your body has
recovered this morning below field 2.
The scene of the body of Simone hung
of the helicopter arriving at the base camp has impressed us all.
Waldemar Dominic was very affected in the base camp by the
impression of being talking to a person who at that moment
rushes into the vacuum inside the store.
In the mountains, how he reminded us Mikel
Sherpa who runs the Sherpas team that accompanies Carlos Soria, can not commit
Minimal error … "An error and a whole life is lost".
Failure to equip the last part of the
Carlos and his companions (Sito
Carcavilla and Luis Miguel Soriano ) are in the waiting period. The
fields are mounted. Lack to equip the last part of the
mountain (from field 3 upwards), what the sherpas will do in
the next two days. Then the Sherpas will have to rest two
or three days and as soon as the weather allows it, they can try the
top. Mikel Sherpa, who is very positive, this morning told us that
maybe before May 10 . The important thing is that Carlos, Sito and
Luis is acclimatized, strong and motivated.
We will tell you from the base camp
Dhaulagiri this incredible human and mountain adventure that supposes
that a person of 79 years is trying to ascend an eight-thousand
besides, it is not easy and it is quite dangerous.
Spectators watch at Alberta Provincials 2018
The Alberta Lead and Speed Provincials took place at the new Calgary Climbing Centre’s Rocky Mountain facility on the west edge of Calgary.
A lot of people showed up to watch from the big space intended to host spectators.
Veteran climbers Jason Holowach and Eva Thompson took first place in Open and a lot of new names popped up across all age groups.
Here’s the Open podium results and winners from all categories.
1. Eva Thompson / Jason Holowach
2. Alyssa Weber / Alex Fricker
3. Paige Boklaschuk / Marc Eveleigh
Junior Boys Female/Male: Lisa Van De Panne / Alex Fricker
Youth A Female/Male: Paige Boklaschuk / Dylan Bokenfohr
Youth B Female/Male: Grace Wieninger / Logan Jones
Youth C Female/Male: Alexa Vanier / Lochlan Radstaak
Youth D Female/Male: Jorja Blumes / Evan Lau
Álex Pérez Caballero
– Monday, April 30, 2018 – Updated at 09: 00h.
In some outdoor activities the weight of food
it is carried to the extreme extreme. In a sporting challenge like the Marathon des
Sables, for example, you have to carry all the food that is
will consume in the six days of this race in stages. The water
It brings the organization but the food is on you.
What is a lyophilisate?
Freeze-drying is a process by which removes all water from food without losing its nutritional qualities ,
or almost: minerals, proteins, fats, etcetera. If we consider
that the meat has around eighty percent of water, that the
percentage in an apple is eighty-six percent and that even
dry pasta is a ten percent liquid element, it's easy
suppose that eliminating or reducing that water means decreasing the weight of
food and, what is also very important, lengthen the time of
conservation, because the bacterial action and other biological processes
that deteriorate food depend a lot on the concentration of water
what they contain
This is not something new: since time immemorial, man has dried naturally
fish, meat, seeds and fruit to conserve and consume them in
the months without production or shortage, or to use it in migrations
or on exploration trips. Beans, chickpeas and lentils are a
clear example of dry foods of vegetable origin. The jerky and the
Mojama are of animal origin.
Thus, lyophilization is nothing other than a desiccation "on the gross" ,
fast and forceful, which is done by industrial means. The process
consists of freezing a food very quickly, and then, in
special conditions of pressure and temperature, proceed to a
very rapid sublimation of your water. Sublimate, as we will remember from
our chemistry classes of the institute, is to directly pass a
element in solid state to gaseous state, in this case, of ice to
steam, without the water passing through the liquid phase, as would be normal.
This process is known as dehydration, and is achieved in a
natural (sun and wind) or by special ovens and appliances that
They can easily buy. The lyophilization, being faster, allows
that the entrainment of nutrients that occurs in a dehydration
conventionally produced, preserves practically all the flavor of
the food and hardly disadvantages its natural texture to be
Freeze-drying, being faster, the drag of nutrients that occurs in a dehydration
conventional barely produced
Freeze-dried foods offer a crunchy texture ,
while dehydrated ones have a softer texture or
flexible. Regarding conservation, being in both cases speaking
of properly packaged products, dehydrated products are usually
retain their qualities for about a year, while
lyophilized can be stored and stored for a longer period,
provided that the container is kept hermetically sealed so that it does not
On a daily basis
in day the lyophilized are part of daily life and we do not even give ourselves
account. In any supermarket you can find many preparations
foods that have resorted to lyophilization. Maybe the most
clear that of coffee, tea and extracts of soluble malted cereals.
We all know that you only have to add hot or cold water to use them.
Or the succulent mashed potato and the sopinstant, or the more and more
abundant Yatekomo and the like that contain dehydrated pasta and
freeze-dried preparations of vegetables and meat (arrival at
Spanish supermarkets in the eighties of the last century of
the "bolinos", some plastic cups that contained pasta, mashed
potato and other foods and in which you only had to add water
hot to prepare them, it was a real revolution in the
mountain feeding, based until then on the sausage and the tin
Preserves practically all the flavor of
the food and hardly disadvantages its natural texture to be
We will also find fruits and vegetables for your
direct consumption as snacks or to prepare cooked dishes and
salads: strawberries, red fruits, pumpkin, potato, beet, apple,
tomato, yucca, banana …
Apart from the aforementioned products,
There are other more elaborate food preparations for sports use.
In the field of mountain and maritime navigation, it has been a long time since
some envelopes are used that are filled with hot water and, after
a few minutes, they are reconstructed normally with the shape of puree or cream ,
that resembles very much what could be a conventional dish.
one hundred grams of product and adding 350 milliliters of water, we obtain
about 450 grams of reconstructed food. We can find dishes Los
freeze-dried foods are first frozen at very low temperature and
then they heat up quickly. as many as taboulé with
vegetables, chicken with rice, pasta with tomato, goulash, risotto, paella …
Of course, lyophilisates can be a good solution for
Enjoy our long-distance adventures to the full without being left
crushed by the weight of the food.
Food of astronauts
It seems a very modern process, natural lyophilization exists from
the antiquity. In the Andes, the Incas allowed food to
freeze during the night and then leave them in the sun. The strong
radiation at high altitude and low atmospheric pressure caused the
sublimation of the water that had frozen. Freeze drying applied to
food was greatly favored by the space race,
especially with the long stays in the orbital stations,
you had to get the astronauts to eat well and
balanced but minimizing the weight of the food that
had to be transported to space.
How to start traveling by bicycle
Traveling by bike
Practical baggage bicycle touring manual
by Alicia Urrea; Álvaro Martín
This manual is designed to explain what you should take into account to start traveling by bicycle. Includes all kinds of information to plan your first route. From how to design your route, things to take into account depending on the different travel companions, how to choose or prepare the bike, going through the type of equipment needed. Finally, the last part of the manual is dedicated to the day-to-day of the route: days of heat, cold or wind, route feeding or how to find a place to sleep.
It has been another busy and productive year for Sport Climbing B.C. with continued development of the competition season, increased support for our Team BC athletes and building up of the competition infrastructure.
Here are some of the key highlights from the 2017/18 season as noted by Sport Climbing B.C.
• 5 Boulder Locals with a total of 828 participants
• 3 Difficulty Locals with a total of 300 participants
• 4 Speed Locals with a total of 282 participants
• 1 Boulder Provincials with 175 participants
• 1 Difficulty Provincials with 161 participants
• 1 Speed Provincials with 70 participants
• 3 National Series Open events Boulder, Difficulty and Speed
• 1 Youth/Open Difficulty/Speed Nationals (upcoming)
• 1 Boulder/Speed Local cosanctioned with ACA
• 2 Team BC Training Camps Youth Boulder & Open Boulder
• SCBC coordinated and hosted one competition using The Boulders Climbing Gym
• SCBC is working with the CEC to coordinate and host Youth/Open Difficulty/Speed Nationals using The Boulders Climbing Gym
• SCBC introduced competition climbing to two new BC climbing gyms Arq Mountain Centre and the SFU Climbing Gym
• SCBC supported 10 different gyms’ host competitions thanks to Arq Mountain Centre, The Edge, Climb Base5, Gneiss Climbing, BoulderHouse Climbing, Project Abbotsford, The Hive North Shore, Richmond Olympic Oval, SFU Climbing Gym and Cliffhanger Climbing
• SCBC hosted competition registration via our website for a gym fun competition Off Belay! at Project Climbing Cloverdale
• SCBC provided Team BC uniforms for all athletes and coaches
• The Team BC Coaching Team, made up of a Team Manager and coaches from supporting club teams, supported all BC athletes at National events including looking after all appeals
• All Team BC athletes had the opportunity to participate in Team BC Training Camps lead by the Team BC Coaching Team prior to Youth Boulder Nationals and Open Boulder Nationals
• SCBC began work on a new BC Teams program to create High Performance and Development streams for our athletes that will begin with an evaluation camp in June.
• SCBC sent 14 athletes to the World Youth Climbing Championships in Innsbruck, Austria
• SCBC sent 21 athletes to PanAmerican Youth Championships in Montréal with three podiums
• SCBC sent 52 athletes to Youth Boulder Nationals with 3 of 8 National Champions and eight podiums
• SCBC sent 19 athletes to Open Boulder Nationals with 2 of 2 National Champions and three podiums