Gripped Week in Review: Spring, Gobright and New Ice


This is a weekly summary of top climbing stories from March 23 to 30.

The top American strong climber sends Carbondale Short Bus 5.14R in Indian Creek.

A moderate mixed route on Kings Peak climbed in honour of Marc-Andre Leclerc.

A steep Rockies mixed line climbed in honour of Marc-Andre Leclerc.

Watch American Michaela Kiersch send Necessary Evil, a classic 5.14c.

The Monster was climbed and is the first WI6 in the Maritimes.

Watch Stas Beskin solo narrow and scary ice pillars in Quebec.

Watch the first ascent of the Red Alert Wall, a massive Canadian big wall in B.C.

Five things to bring for spring crag climbing.

Aspire hosted an Ontario Lead comp, results and more.

David Lama solos the first ascent of an Austrian alpine wall.

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Separate Deaths Rattle Climb and Ski Communities


In separate accidents, a skier has passed away in Whistler and a climber at Devil’s Lake, Wisconsin.

In Whistler, ski guide Lisa Korthals died on Wednesday after being buried in an avalanche.

Whistler Blackcomb confirmed the 49-year-old woman from Pemberton was guiding a group of guests outside the resort’s boundary when the avalanche occurred near the South Creek area.

The group was heli-skiing at the time.

“Today is a difficult day for the Whistler Blackcomb and Vail Resorts family. We lost a well-loved member of our staff and community,” said Pete Sonntag, chief operating officer of Whistler Blackcomb in a release.

”Our hearts go out to her family, friends and fellow employees and we extend them our deepest condolences.”

Lisa Korthals

And at Devil’s Lake, Chicago-based climber Savannah Buik, 22, passed away in a climbing accident.

The American Alpine Club released a statement that read, “Our hearts are heavy with the news that Savannah Buik passed away in a climbing accident yesterday. Savannah was our charismatic Chicago Chapter leader, spent last summer interning with us here in Golden, and just graduated with her BS in Mathematics.

“When, a few months ago, we asked her why she climbs, she wrote: ‘I divert to climbing to help me experience ALL emotions: happiness, anger, frustration, sadness, excitement… the emotions combine to make me feel whole again. Climbing is my way of feeling.’

Savannah Buik

“Savannah was an inspiration in our community, and we miss her laugh ringing through the office and local crags. We continue to be inspired by her positive spirit.”

Officials with the Department of Natural Resources say she was killed in a fall involving a rope on Wednesday from the East Bluff of the park. No other details are available.

It has been a sad year for many in the ski and climb community.

Conrad Anker recently posted a message on Instagram about loss, prior to the passing of Savannah and Lisa. But his words seem timeless and the message comforting.

There is no easy way to approach death. Avoid it and it will haunt you. Confront it and are you seeking immortality? Perhaps by accepting it and seeing death as wonderful as its partner – birth – we can lessen the pain of loss. ••• If there is one constant in life, it is that we have to understand mortality. We ponder the timing and the circumstance, especially if we engage in activities that bring us a heightened sense of awareness through danger. Each moon, with its eternal cycling, brings a sliver of wisdom. The ancients recognized this and if we step out of the buildings that contain us we are open to question our existence. The process of aging forces us to make peace with death. Our existence is, after all, fleeting and so very short. ••• During the first few months of 2018 friends, close and far have left the physical. For those, like Lama Geshe and Liz Hawley (both of Nepal) it was after a life well lived. Our bodies gives in to the daily struggle with gravity. We celebrate the life they lived. For Jim Bridwell, master and diviner of Yosemite Walls we wished another decade – so that we could be inspired by his vision. For Ann Krcik, struck by cancer, we mourn the wanton choice of death. There was so much more to do. She was a leader. For Ryan Johnson and Marc Andre LeClerc, gone in the prime of their life while pursuing their passion we question the value of adventure and risk. And those left standing, we that ply the same seas as Marc and Ryan, we feel the weight of being a survivor. With the passing of Dr. Stephen Hawking, our generation’s leader in the cosmos focusing on gravity and black holes, we are reminded of our human potential. After experiencing zero G in a jet Dr. Hawking said of the risky endeavor , “I want to show that people need not be limited by physical handicaps as long as they are not disabled in spirit.” ••• We are in this together. We have but a brief time to reach for self actualization and in the process make the world a friendlier and happier place. Let us not mourn death, let it be our inspiration. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼 Photography: @night_sky_collective @max.lowe @nytimes @jamesqmartin @alexhonnold Collection of Ann Krcik

A post shared by Conrad Anker (@conrad_anker) on



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"There is a magnetism that draws us towards the mountains and makes us return"


CLOSE A CIRCLE

        

Last July Òscar Cadiach
ascended the Broad Peak and that closed the list of
Fourteen. There have been many years, almost seventy expeditions and a feeling at the end of this project: "An immense joy of being alive". In this video-interview he reviews the key moments of his career.

        

Darío Rodríguez / DESNIVEL
– Friday, March 30, 2018 – Updated at 12:40 p.m.

                

                
                

 Video: interview with Òscar Cadiach  Play

Video: interview with Òscar Cadiach

    

 
 

        
        

Oxygen, motivation, worst moments,
sublime moments … The 67 expeditions in which Òscar Cadiach
has embarked throughout his life have left many issues
that we have been able to review with him in this interview. "May I
consider fortunate after so many expeditions, there are many
years, more than 35 ",
account.

"We go to the mountains in search of life,
if the experience were bad we would not go "

What did you feel when you finished the
Fourteen?

A cluster of satisfactions and about
all an immense joy of being alive. There have been many moments
hard times related to friends and colleagues who have not returned,
this makes you think that, in the 67 expeditions that I've done,
It can happen to you, that's why I'm happy to be here today.

What has been the most ochomil
difficult?

It is difficult to assess. The K2 is very
difficult, I stayed very close to the summit in 2004. The Broad Peak ,
that has three points and the three I got, maybe it's the most
complicated when I did it on the Chinese side. It was the first one
world and I think it was a giant step more committed
and exposed that when you try the mountain by the normal route.

"There is still
pending a project, climbing the Gyachung Kang "

And which has been the easiest?
Ochomil easy there is no. The people who have
made the Fourteen tells you about some who are reputed to be more
easy or they have cost less. For me that's the Cho Oyu,
but for others not because they have had to try many times.

What's the end of the list?
Close a circle, but there's still
pending a project, climb the Gyachung Kang on the border of
Tibet and Nepal, the highest sietemil in the world.

How have you changed over the years?
Aspiration has always been the
same, but there comes a moment, with the passing of the years, in which the
constancy and the power is not the same as when you faced a
Ochomil by a new route. Over the years life changes
a lot and the climbers are transformed, maybe more for the day to day
that by his way of being.

What do you look for in the mountains?
We go to the mountains in search of life,
If the experience were bad we would not go. There is a magnetism that
attracts towards the mountains and makes us able to return to them still
with more motivation

Listen to the full interview:

                



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Climber-Free Photos Makes for Stone Worshiping


Worshiping stone with no boulderers Photo All Mighty Stone(s)

By simply removing the boulderers from these bouldering images has revealed a completely different photo.

The spotters left appear to be worshipping the famous and not-so-famous boulder problems from all around the globe.

Without the climber on the rock, it looks like a bunch of scrufy rock worshippers.

Go check out some more at the Instagram page below. There aren’t many photos up, but the photoshopping work is impeccable.



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Carbondale Short Bus 5.14R for Brad Gobright


Carbondale Short Bus 5.14R

Brad Gobright has made the fourth free ascent of Carbondale Short Bus 5.14R in Indian Creek.

Gobright is one of America’s all-round top climbers with a number of bold solos and hard big walls to his name.

The first ascent of Carbondale Short Bus was in the spring of 2012 by the late Hayden Kennedy. Nick Martino had projected the climb for some time before Kennedy’s send.

Kennedy wrote on MountainProject.com about the climb, “A wild line with varied movement and thin gear. The route is much easier the taller you are, the grade is very height dependent. I TR [top roped] the route before going for it on the sharp end. The gear is good but there are some run-outs on Purple and Grey C3 size pieces.”

One of the cruxes is the final crux where you have to dyno from the crack to a slopey sandstone hold on an arete.

The hard route has attracted a number of strong climbers over the years. It’s found on the 4X4 wall.

Matt Segal made the second ascent in 2015 and James Pearson the third ascent of 2016.

Gobright wrote on Instagram, “I sent Carbondale Short Bus today! Major respect to Hayden Kennedy for making the FA. One of my biggest heroes.

“I climbed it with a preplaced cam instead of placing it on lead with a crash pad. I found I couldn’t reach the placement from this kneebar and I would have had to solo the first 20 feet.

“I can’t risk breaking my back again. Regardless, I’m psyched on climbing my hardest trad lead to date.”

Nick Martino Projecting

Hayden Kennedy Send

James Pearson Send



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Throwback to Talk on Hard Rockies Alpine Climbs


Twins and Mount Alberta Photo John Scurlock

In 2007, a group of top Canadian climbers gave a panel discussion at the Banff Mountain Film Festival.

Barry Blanchard, Raphael Slawinski, Sean Isaac and Steve Holeczi discussed their obsessions with the area and looked into the future of the Canadian Rockies.

Narrated by Geoff Powter, the program description read, “Just over Barely a decade ago, the remarkable growth of sport climbing led some to worry that climbers would avoid the riskier and more committing world of the alpine, especially in mountain areas with clear hazards like the Canadian Rockies.

“But in the last few years, the opposite has been true. Sport and mixed climbing has helped spark a renaissance in hard alpine climbing — especially in our own range, where new waves of fiercely talented local and international climbers have once again grown to love the unique character of Rockies alpinism.”

Over the past decade, a number of big and bold Rockies routes have been climbed. But there are many unclimbed walls, features and even peaks to still do.

Watch the panel discussion below.



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Indoor Weekly: Throwback to 2008 Tour de Bloc


This short film features highlights from Urban Uprising’s Tour de Bloc in Edmonton on Jan. 25, 2008.

The podiums results were Thirza Carpenter in first for women, followed by Vikki Weldon and Heather Sawitsky.

For the men, Patrick Lucas won with Marshal German in second and Dan Archambault in third.

Sit back and witness how different comps were only 10 years ago. With the lack of run and jump dynos, it’s hard to believe this is even a comp.



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Pro-Baseball Star Ditches Dirtbagging for Opening Day


Daniel Norris is one of baseball’s top-ranked pitchers, a cancer survivor, makes millions and spends the offseason dirtbagging in a van.

The 24-year-old ex-Toronto Blue Jays pitcher signed to play out of high school, earning a $2 million signing bonus. He now plays for the Detriot Tigers.

During the offseason, he calls his 1979 Vlkswagen called Shaggy, home.

Norris has a big Instagram following with nearly 200,000 followers and nearly all of his images of of surfing, mountains, van living and influential outdoor people.

For the 2018 opening day of baseball, he’s trimmed the scruff and left dirtbagging behind for the baseball season.

“It’s like a yin-and-yang thing for me,” he said in 2015. “I’m not going to change who I am just because people think it’s weird.

“The only way I’m going to have a great season is by starting out happy and balanced and continuing to be me. It might be unconventional, but to feel good about life I need to have some adventure.”

He spends some of his dirtbagging days on the road with top climbing photographer Ben Moon. Watch a film that Moon made about Norris below.

Norris’s family has owned a bicycle shop in Johnson City, Tennessee, for more than 80 years. Despite his $2 million signing bonus, Norris lived off just $800 a month.

In an interview with ESPN he was asked why he chooses to continue to live so conservatively. He asked back, “Who am I to deserve that? What have I really done? I’m actually more comfortable being kind of poor,”

On October 19, 2015, Norris announced through his Instagram account that he had been diagnosed with thyroid cancer. He was diagnosed the previous April, and with a doctor’s consent, he continued playing and delayed treatment until the end of the season.

On October 29, Norris announced he was cancer-free following a successful surgery to remove a malignant growth from his thyroid.

Watch this great short film by Moon and try to not want to hit the road right now.



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Can a carabiner break with a climbing fall?


Eva Martos / Desnivel.com
– Thursday, March 29, 2018 – Updated at 12:15 p.m.

The case jumped into networks last 10 of
March, when the American Daniel Woods posted a video in the
that was seen falling on the track that is testing in Margalef with
the text: "Giving hard to First Round First Minute (9b)
last three days. Maybe too hard, since I've broken by the
half a carabiner of Camp in a fall leaving the second step
key. I've been fucking close to hitting the ground. He
material looked good, but you can see that it was not. "

Given the mediatic nature of the character,
case has generated a stir, with varied voices trying to
explain what happened. We went to Vicent Palau, guardian of the refuge of
Margalef
to inquire about the time the tape was in
question installed on the road, who tells us: "I pass
practically every day below that path and that tape
it's already, if I'm not mistaken, two whole winters on the road . The
left some climber who, or could not get past where he left it or who
He left it because it was difficult to dismantle the track. Since then
all those who have tried it, who are many (level climbers,
and above all, many, without level), have taken advantage of it. No one has
removed in two years. People took their tapes but that tape
green on the road stayed. Sometimes on a sheet above, a
times in a lower one. That tape has received impacts daily,
surely many more than the manufacturer would recommend
. And it's normal
that sooner or later will petara. Which is rare, but not exceptional.
It is not the first carabiner in the world. What happens is that
they do not usually pertain to media people, since they usually go with their
impeccable tapes. I guess the subject is interesting because it has
passed to a famous climber on a renowned road. And guilty not
there are. There are none and at the same time they are all those who have tried
the way and they have not removed it
. But you will understand that it is complicated for
a climber, especially professional, realize the state of a
carabiner ".

The opinion of the climbing expert Curro Martínez

In the interest that has awakened the
case, and pending the official response from the manufacturers (that,
they have confirmed us, they are investigating it, already with
the carabiner in question – model Photon de Camp – in his possession),
we asked the anchor expert Curro Martínez (de Asac Vertical
Lab
) his opinion about what happened. In this
interview analyzes the different hypotheses and provides advice for
learn to assess the correct condition and placement of a carabiner
,
with an interesting video demonstration as a colophon.

Can a climbing carabiner
break up?

That a carabiner used in climbing
Sports break is not normal, but it is true that each
some time breaks the occasional climbing carabiner
our country, generating some scare, in general without
serious consequences.

But obviously it's not usual,
since all the carabiners of mountaineering and climbing that
marketed in Europe meet minimum requirements of
resistance, contemplated in the EN 12275 standard
. In the case of
carabiners of our express ribbons should at least
support 20 KN on its major or main axis, 7 kN on its minor axis and 7
kN on its major axis but with the trigger open. This values
should guarantee in theory that our carabiners do not
break under normal conditions on a climbing path, but of course,
life is not perfect and norms, since there are many
of situations in which a carabiner can work in a way
different from the tests contemplated in the standard; is in this type of
situations when carabiners fail.

"There are infinity
of situations in which a carabiner can work in a way
different from the tests contemplated in the standard "

And specifically, in what situation
could a carabiner of an express tape that is put on a
How to get to break? How much does your resistance decrease when you
placed in the wrong position?

These are quite complex questions because
the factors involved are multiple and there are endless
variables and possible situations; just trying to answer
These questions we could write a very funny book. But
Let's try to explain it in a simple way, avoiding a block
of data.

So that a carabiner fails for
below 20 kN that sets the standard, as we have said
previously, you must work in a different situation than
for which it has been designed. The most critical situation regarding
the resistance marked by the manufacturer in its major axis is that
in which the carabiner works on its main axis, but away from
the backbone of the carabiner, that is, receiving the highest
part of the tension in the trigger zone.
In these types of cases
We will be talking about a loss of resistance between 45 and
35% less than the value set by the manufacturer. If to this form of
work we add the involuntary opening of the trigger or that the
carabiner is hooked to the plate by the tooth (as we see in
the image of the video that accompanies this news), we would be talking
of very worrying values ​​between 3 and 2 kN
in some cases, in which the smallest of
falls could easily cause the carabiner to break.

Another very critical situation of
resistance
is what we get when the carabiner works in
flexion or lever
or on any of the different parts of the
anchor or on the rock itself. A situation that does not include
norm under any circumstances for type B carabiners, but in
my opinion should contemplate it in some way since, although
It seems unlikely, a carabiner that has a resistance of 24 kN in its main axis, could break to only 3 kN in
this kind of situation.

Other situations that may cause
the breakage of a carabiner, better known to the public
specialized, they are that this one works in its minor axis or with the trigger
open
. The values ​​that will be set by the manufacturer as a minimum and set by the standard in
these two cases is 7 kN, although at the time of choosing a carabiner,
It is preferable to look for values ​​around 9kN to avoid scares
unnecessary.

In the specific case of the carabiner that
it broke Daniel Woods, there are people who have thought that it may have been the whiplash effect,
What is this exactly? Do you think that this could have been the
cause of the break?

The effect whiplash is a term
Anglo-Saxon that translated literally means whiplash ; is a
concept that is used to define when the string generates a
violent movement on the carabiner during a fall in
escalation, which may lead to the involuntary opening of the
carabiner trigger and the rope comes off. The term is
used generically for referise to any self opening
involuntary trigger, as a consequence of the
vibrations transmitted by the rope during a fall
.

In my opinion, in the specific case of
carabiner that broke Daniel Woods, although I could only
analyze it by a photo (without having it physically, as it would be
recommended for a successful analysis in the laboratory), is practically impossible
that the break was for this reason
. I see it like that mainly
for three reasons:

  1. It's a carabiner with a design
    very successful
    which will hardly stay in a position in the
    which works near the trigger.

  1. Even if the
    trigger involuntarily because of the whisplash effect, this could not
    being the cause of the break, and to the minimum resistance of this
    carabiner is 9 kN with the trigger open that is, much higher than the one that is exerted with a simple fall.

  2. The deformation and breakage
    presented in this carabiner (starting, as I say, only from the
    contemplation of the photograph), does not coincide with any of the
    two possible combinations of rupture, that is to say, the
    worked on the main shaft with the trigger open or close to the
    same.

So, in your opinion, which one
may have been the most likely cause of the break in this case?

Observing the signs of the image,
I think it's much more likely because of the type of breakage shown,
has worked in flexion or lever of the spine of the
carabiner on the own sheet.

"It is important to verify that the carabiner does not present any undercuts, excessive wear, cracks or corrosion"

In addition to verifying that it is placed
correctly, how can we assess whether a carabiner is in good
state?

It is important that the trigger open and
close normally
and that the trigger rivets are in
good condition Also that the body of the carabiner does not present marks
or notches
or excessive wear, cracks or corrosion, and that
the contact areas with the rope or the anchor support area
do not show wear or carvings greater than one millimeter that
can cause the rope to cut or weaken the resistance of the
carabiner

How often should we
change our carabiners?

In principle the carabiners have a
unlimited shelf life, unlike the tapes that also
They make up our expresses, which have a maximum lifespan
fixed by the manufacturers (which is at most 10 years for the textile). But this does not mean that they are
eternal in time and that we should never change them, all
depends on the intensity of use to which we submit them.

What conclusions can we draw from
this case?

We must bear in mind that no
has been a case related to a failure of a manufacturer in
concrete, since the norm does not contemplate this type of situations;
there are cases of breakage of carabiners of different brands by
work differently than they have been designed for.

To prevent this from happening, we must
monitor the good equipment of the tracks
do not trust too much of
the express tapes that we have not put ourselves and especially,
when we are climbing, monitor the movement that we can
transmit to the tape
with our string or our body. This can be difficult to
assess when we are climbing to the limit, but at least we should
make sure that the upper carabiner of the express tape does not
have no system that keeps it fixed
(such as a
tape …), which greatly increases the chances of
generate the risk situations that we have commented. For a greater
tranquility, at the points where there is the possibility that the
carabiner may work improperly, we should replace it
for a maillon (specifically on the tracks we are working with
much assiduity or in fixed equipment).

Video demonstration

In this short video we can see a
example of the breakage of a carabiner that is working near the
trigger tooth, subject to tension until it breaks
-as we see in the images- at only 2.86 kN:

Critical situation in climbing carabiners. from Asac Vertical Lab on Vimeo.

To deepen the issue of the resistance of the carabiners, we recommend the article "Microfissures in the carabiners" published in the magazine Escalar nº 93 also by Curro Martínez .

                



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Indoor Weekly: Eddie Fowke Talks Comps on 8a.nu


Akiyo Noguchi

The 2018 IFSC competition season is abbut to start overseas and the organization’s lead photographer has some thoughts about the potential chaos that might ensue.

Eddie Fowke travels to many of the IFSC comps and knows better than most how changes to the scoring might affect things.

Because most climbers are thinking about qualifying for the Olympics in 2020, there will be many climbers competing in more than one discipline.

Fowke recently told the climber’s site 8a.nu about five things he sees as being issues in 2018.

He listed climber burnout and injuries, confusion, contention, mixed results and big world cups (more climbers than ever).

At one point, he says, “And while doing double duty at World Cups where there are more than one event in a weekend (Boulder/Speed, Speed/Lead). Along with the injuries expect emotional burnout as climber’s struggle with continued trips overseas, time zone juggling and the pressure of having to perform.”

Read the full list here. Visit here for your 2018 Canada Boulder Team.



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