Wednesday, February 28, 2018 – Updated at 3:00 p.m.
The march of Denis Urubko has left the expedition lame
Polish to the winter K2. So far, he had led the team leadership,
marking the tips of height – both on the Cesen route and on the route of the
Ram of the Abruzzos- and had clearly shown himself as the strongest and
capable. In fact, one of his disagreements with Krzysztof Wielicki
produced the day he installed the C2 alone and wanted to have climbed up
C3 to finish the acclimatization but the expedition leader ordered him to
How are the Poles without Urubko? What possibilities
have to reach the top of K2 in the three weeks left to this
winter? The first part of the answers has the meteorology, which
seems determined not to give any option. The second part corresponds to the
climbers Who are they and what can we expect from them?
Adam Bielecki, the
Adam Bielecki (34 years old) has been the strongest of the
Polish He was the only one who was able to follow Denis Urubko, despite the fact that
his performance has been reduced by the accident he had near the C1 of
Cesen route, when a stone fallen from higher levels hit him in the
head and it caused an ugly wound in the nose that his own companions
they had to suture.
According to Piotr Snopczynski, the doctor who has joined
the expedition this week, Adam Bielecki is fully recovered and in
shape. So, and if nothing unusual happens, he will undoubtedly be in the rope that
try the top of the winter K2.
It is worth remembering that Adam Bielecki was one of the
great stars of the expedition from the beginning. Not in vain, in his
history has the first winter ascents to Gasherbrum
I and at Broad
Janusz Golab se
In the last hours, Janusz Golab (50) has taken a step forward
and has been nominated as a possible rope partner of Adam Bielecki for
try the top. Of course, he has also warned that it is not enough
acclimatized to launch an attempt in the first window of good weather that
open Before that, it should rise on occasion up to 7,200 or 7,400 m
from C3 and spend one or two nights there, as he himself has said. These
heights of the expedition, Janusz Golab still has not exceeded 6,700 meters
and it has been 10 days since he leaves the base camp.
Janusz Golab is one of the most experienced mountaineers in the
Polish group. In his history it appears to have completed with Adam Bielecki
the first winter to Gasherbrum
I . It is logical then that the fans of that country dream of the reissue
of a rope that completed that expedition with total success.
Artur Malek, other
Another name that stands out among the remaining members of the
The Polish group is Artur Malek (37). Share with Janusz Golab the
honor of having accompanied Adam Bielecki in a first winter ascent to
an eight-thousand, in his case the Broad
Peak although that expedition brings an unfortunate memory to perish
during the descent the other two climbers who reached the top: Maciej
Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski .
In your case, the process of acclimatization goes even something by
behind that of Janusz Golab, it has only reached 6,500 m from C2
low. Of course, it has the advantage that it has been active more recently,
yesterday just descended to the CB in the last rotation.
Marcin Kaczkan, a
nod to the story
The name of Marcin Kaczkan (44) has a very strong link
special with the winter K2. In fact, he shares with Denis Urubko and Piotr
Morawski the milestone of having reached the maximum height in the winter K2 (7,650
m) in the 2002-2003 expedition. He was Denis' partner in the attack on
summit, but a bad night in height left him touched and only the obstinacy of
Kazakh allowed not to stay there forever.
As for its acclimatization this year, it has also reached
the 6,700 m of C2, from where it descended yesterday to the base camp.
Maciej Bedrejczuk, the
passion of youth
Maciej Bedrejczuk (35) is probably the most unknown
of all the members of the expedition and the youngest except for Adam
Bielecki. He had never ascended to an eight-thousand and his performance is
surprising positively, being able to keep up with his peers.
In the last rotation he has made roped with Marcin Kaczkan and
it has also reached 6,700 m from C2.
Piotr Tomala, Darek Zaluski …
The expedition still has three other members
(Two other members, Rafal Fronia and Jaroslaw Botor left earlier).
Marek Chmielarski (45) has followed some acclimation guidelines similar to those
of his teammates and yesterday he returned to the CB after having reached 6,500
m. The role of Piotr Tomala (45) has been significantly diluted after having
participated in the rescue in the Nanga Parbat. While the veteran Darek
Zaluski (58) works mainly as a photographer and photographer.
the techniques of using the strings
How to string
Use of rope in mountains
by Toño Guerra
A manual that gathers all the techniques of using the mountain ropes, whether it is an ascent or an alpine climb with different difficulties in rock, ice, glaciers and nine.