– Wednesday, February 28, 2018 – Updated at 12: 28h
Few presentations needed Hervé Barmasse one of the
most outstanding European climbers of today, who has starred climbs
in a light style and committed to mountains of half the world. Have in the
Matterhorn its favorite playground and has carried out climbs of soaring
level, several of them alone. Of reflective and analytical personality,
It is always interesting to chat with him or read his texts, which have crystallized
in books like The
mountain inside published by Desnivel.
Hervé Barmasse has followed with attention – like any other
mountaineering fan – the development of the Polish expedition to the winter K2.
Following what happened with the attempt of Denis Urubko alone and without permission
Krzysztof Wielicki the head of the expedition, has written the following
There are climbers and then
there are the out of series . To be, you must show some qualities
physical-athletic above the norm, coherence with their own ideals,
respect for values, ethics and above all the ability to carry out in
lonely climbs that many would consider impossible for a team.
Even without being of
according to the heavy style used by the Polish expedition on K2 in
these cold months -as in general in the eight-thousanders-, I think that Urubko is a
out of series from another time . I could go so far as to say that is the new
Jerzy Kukuczka to quote another of the great mountaineers of the Himalayas. Not only
I respect his decision to leave alone, but in my heart I expected him to have
success . Because Denis pursues the impossible, invites to dream and becomes fascinating
a mountaineering that too often is emphasized by their own
protagonists and by many journalists.
Regarding the beginning and
at the end of winter, still today I read people who enjoy making fun of him
for his idea that he considers the calendar of Nepal valid (from December 1
to February 28) and not that of Europe (from December 21 to March 21). In
defense of Denis, and also for the consistency of his actions, I would like
emphasize that is not an invention of his as I have read several times in the last
days. And the Polish team, which today mocks the Kazakh with the irony of denying him
the internet password, knows it better than anyone else.
Denis, like others
out of series of the history of Himalayism (I quote as examples, among others,
Jean Troillet, Pierre Alain Steiner and Erdhard Loretan ), have always held
that the dates of the winter calendar follow that of the regions in which
They find the great mountains. Dates (December 1 to February 28) that
were discussed when, for the edition of the Piolets d'Or 2005, it was
nominated the French lone Jean-Christophe Lafaille for the first winter of the
Shisha Pangma On February 24-25, 2005, I was a spectator in the
Piolets d'Or and the presenter of Qui Montagne and president of the jury, Krzysztof
Wielicki (which happens to be the same Wielicki chief of the expedition to K2), put
a decisive negative veto on considering the ascent of Lafaille winter
occurred on December 11, 2004. First winter subsequently recognized
to the Italo-Polish team (Moro and Morawski) for the ascension in January
These are the facts
that place Denis and Krzysztof definitely in different positions, and
they make evident the clash between the two great climbers . But see that it
mock a climber of the caliber of Denis who demonstrates not knowing the
Mountaineering history … I must be honest, I am deeply disappointed.
Also for the fact that, if there is a genuine and sincere person in our
world of "conquerors of the useless", that is precisely Denis .
interests are so great because of the sponsors, and everything is put in doubt to
through information, often superficial and inaccurate, that travels throughout
speed over the internet Nobody has the will to inform itself properly. But,
beyond the reasons of the protagonists of this matter, for someone like
I used to think that the mountain unites people and does not divide them, today I finish
dejected and bitter. Mountaineering runs the risk of becoming a sport
noble to trash .