Wednesday, February 28, 2018 – Updated at 11:30 p.m.
Five years and three failed attempts is
what it has cost the Austrian climber David Lama to get
Sagzahn-Verschneidung (M6 / A2)
in the Sagwand, in the Austrian valley of Valser. The past month of January the
Perfect conditions and, accompanied by the Tyrolean Peter Mühlburger he managed to point out the objective that he had
The ascension is, above all, a milestone
of personal importance for Lama: "The Sagzahn-Verschneidung has a great personal value :
I have been looking at it for a long time, it has cost me several attempts and, each
Once I tried, I underestimated their escalation. Now I can look at the route
with a deep sense of satisfaction ", writes the Austrian on his website.
Sagzahn- Verschneidung features six longs with delicate sections of mixed in
those who alternated free and artificial climbing. David tells the story of his fight with the route:
On my first attempt I went with a friend from school and I immediately realized that I had underestimated the difficulties of seeing the route from afar. We could only climb three lengths, about a third of the vertical wall. Two years later, I came back with Uli, a friend from East Tyrol. The first 200 meters were entirely mixed climbing. Uli and I solved everything and we reached the end of the difficulties when, unfortunately, it was night. We decided that the most sensible thing was to rappel.
Two weeks later we were back at the base, this time we arrived at night, we slept at the foot of the wall to start early enough and make the descent with the light of day. However, luck was not on our side: a piece of ice fell on Uli's head. We had to turn around one more time.
Every winter I thought about climbing the road, but conditions were never good . This year, everything fit one of the first days of January. I agreed with Peter Mühlburger (Uli did not want to return) to finish the climb. To be safe, we skied to the base last night with huge backpacks. After sleeping in the store, we started early. In an hour and a half we passed the snowfield and reached the wall.
Peter made the first long first, the next two (the hardest) I did. The rock was not very good; that, together with winter conditions and thin ice made protection difficult. It was a precarious climb, desperately seeking to nail the crampons while cleaning the snow. I was about to leave a couple of times. The roof, for safety, I solved it in artificial: in this terrain, with this protection and crampons on the feet, the fall is not the best option … It was exactly what I like: difficult mountaineering, where you have to use all your resources to take each step. Just over the roof, I broke half dam. After a moment of terror, I took a deep breath and almost went unable to manage the situation .
After six lengths with numerous demanding sections that I only got in artificial, We had passed the steepest part of the wall. We had a fairly vertical but simpler terrain. Even so, we reached the summit, at 5:00 p.m. Then we rapped and skied to the car. We arrived in Innsbruck at about 11pm. Peter and I agreed to consider it as M6 / A2 very laborious. In any case, the Sagzahn-Verschneidung is one of the most difficult lines I have climbed in Sagwand.
I would be glad if someone repeated it, but I am aware That is not going to happen: it is very rare for someone to repeat something more than the classics in the Valley of Waltz.
Messner, living to the limit and surviving:
Reinhold Messner. Life of a survivor
by Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Messner, the first winner of the 14 eight-thousanders, has shown on innumerable expeditions what it is to live on the edge and survive.