David Lama makes the first ascent of Sagzahn Verschneidung in Austria


Wednesday, February 28, 2018 – Updated at 11:30 p.m.

Five years and three failed attempts is
what it has cost the Austrian climber David Lama to get
Sagzahn-Verschneidung (M6 / A2)
in the Sagwand, in the Austrian valley of Valser. The past month of January the
Perfect conditions and, accompanied by the Tyrolean Peter Mühlburger he managed to point out the objective that he had
time chasing.

The ascension is, above all, a milestone
of personal importance for Lama: "The Sagzahn-Verschneidung has a great personal value :
I have been looking at it for a long time, it has cost me several attempts and, each
 Once I tried, I underestimated their escalation. Now I can look at the route
with a deep sense of satisfaction ", writes the Austrian on his website.

Sagzahn- Verschneidung features six longs with delicate sections of mixed in
those who alternated free and artificial climbing. David tells the story of his fight with the route:

On my first attempt I went with a friend from school and I immediately realized that I had underestimated the difficulties of seeing the route from afar. We could only climb three lengths, about a third of the vertical wall. Two years later, I came back with Uli, a friend from East Tyrol. The first 200 meters were entirely mixed climbing. Uli and I solved everything and we reached the end of the difficulties when, unfortunately, it was night. We decided that the most sensible thing was to rappel.

Two weeks later we were back at the base, this time we arrived at night, we slept at the foot of the wall to start early enough and make the descent with the light of day. However, luck was not on our side: a piece of ice fell on Uli's head. We had to turn around one more time.

Every winter I thought about climbing the road, but conditions were never good . This year, everything fit one of the first days of January. I agreed with Peter Mühlburger (Uli did not want to return) to finish the climb. To be safe, we skied to the base last night with huge backpacks. After sleeping in the store, we started early. In an hour and a half we passed the snowfield and reached the wall.

Peter made the first long first, the next two (the hardest) I did. The rock was not very good; that, together with winter conditions and thin ice made protection difficult. It was a precarious climb, desperately seeking to nail the crampons while cleaning the snow. I was about to leave a couple of times. The roof, for safety, I solved it in artificial: in this terrain, with this protection and crampons on the feet, the fall is not the best option … It was exactly what I like: difficult mountaineering, where you have to use all your resources to take each step. Just over the roof, I broke half dam. After a moment of terror, I took a deep breath and almost went unable to manage the situation .

After six lengths with numerous demanding sections that I only got in artificial, We had passed the steepest part of the wall. We had a fairly vertical but simpler terrain. Even so, we reached the summit, at 5:00 p.m. Then we rapped and skied to the car. We arrived in Innsbruck at about 11pm. Peter and I agreed to consider it as M6 / A2 very laborious. In any case, the Sagzahn-Verschneidung is one of the most difficult lines I have climbed in Sagwand.

I would be glad if someone repeated it, but I am aware That is not going to happen: it is very rare for someone to repeat something more than the classics in the Valley of Waltz.

                

Messner, living to the limit and surviving:

                                

Reinhold Messner. Life of a survivor

by Reinhold Messner

Reinhold Messner, the first winner of the 14 eight-thousanders, has shown on innumerable expeditions what it is to live on the edge and survive.

                                



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Qualifications Running Order for 2018 Boulder Nationals


The Canadian Bouldering Nationals will be taking place at Up the Bloc on March 3 and 4 at Up the Bloc in Ontario.

For more comp info, athlete interviews and results visit here. Scroll down for running order.

Saturday, March 3
08.00 Isolation Zone Men Opens
09.00 Isolation Zone Men Closes
10.00-14.30 Qualification Men
14.30 Isolation Zone Women Opens
15.30 Isolation Zone Women Closes
16.30-20.30 Qualification Women

Sunday, March 4
09.00 Isolation Zone Men and Women Semi-Finals Opens
10.00 Isolation Zone Men and Women Semi-Finals Closes
11.00-14.00 Semi-Finals Men and Women
16.30 Isolation Zone Men and Women Finals Opens
17.30 Isolation Zone Men and Women Finals Closes
18.30 – 20.30 Finals Men and Women
Followed by Awards Ceremony



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Watch Northern Patagonia Granite First Ascent


During a three-week expedition to northern Patagonia, David Anderson and Szu-ting Yi climbed two new routes up granite walls.

The two climbers were dropped by boat in Nahuel Huapi National Park and then hiked and and pack-rafted to a basecamp below the walls in the Huahuahue Valley.

Ice Cream Tempura is a 500-metre 5.10R C0 and Rising from the Ashes is a 900-metre 5.11 C1.

Nahuel Huapi National Park is home to the popular climbing area called Frey, which is where some classic spires are found: The Fool, The Monk, The Grandfather, The Lunar Rocket, The Old Woman, The Splinter and The Three Marias.

Established in 1934, it’s the oldest national park in Argentina. It surrounds Nahuel Huapi Lake in the foothills of the Patagonian Andes.

There are big condors that soar high above and lots of mosquitoes.



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Indoor Weekly: Bronwen Karnis on Upcoming Open Nationals


Bronwen Karnis Photo Will Johnson

Bronwen Karnis is celebrating her last year as a Youth competitor and is hoping to make Finals at the Canadian Open Boulder Nationals this weekend.

Coming off a second place finish at the Youth Boulder Nationals in Quebec, top spot went to Mika Hosoi of B.C., she’s climbing at the top of her game.

So far this year, the 17-year-old won Tour de Bloc at Bloc Shop, won a National Series comp at Boulderz Etobicoke and won Bloc Buster at Climber’s Rock.

Based in Burlington, Karnis is a Canadian Youth and Open National Team member for Lead and Boulder and when she’s not climbing stays busy playing classical music on the piano.

How long have you been competing? About five years now I think.

Where was your first competition? At Climber’s Rock. I think it was a summer sweat fest or a tour de bloc.

Do you have a specific training plan or do you just climb a lot to train? I have a specific training plan with my coach, we try to experiment a bit and change it often. He does most of the work though and is really smart so it’s usually worked for me, haha.

The Nationals are this weekend, have you been training specifically for it? Yes! I have been training for it, as well as other competitions (like youth nationals a few weeks ago).

Are you going for the podium this year? Podium would definitely be nice.

Who do you think has a chance of making top three? Alannah Yip for sure, and I think Allison Vest and Alyssa Webber will do really well.

There’s also a few younger girls who will be getting the chance to compete this year like Madison Fisher and Babette Roy.

What do you think the problems will be like? I think there will be a variety. Maybe some more complex/volume style, a bit of slab and jumps.

Do you like the current problem setting style with big jumps and parkour style moves? This style is fun and I like it, but I think a variety of different styles is best, especially in a competition.

What is one of your strengths? I think my strengths are crimps, and big pulls.

What are your 2018 plans? Hopefully to do some climbing outside a bit and graduate high school. I’ll also hopefully be training for Youth World Championships

Click to watch Karnis at Youth Boulder Nationals below and for more on the Nationals this weekend see here.



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Canadians Climb Big Ice in Eastern China


Canadians Will Gadd and Sarah Hueniken just spent time climbing big ice in eastern China with photographer John Price.

Their man goal was to climb the famous Christmas Tree route, a massive WI6 route that was established last year by Liu Yang and Chaun. The climb is captured in this film.

As we await the list of routes the ace team of Gadd and Hueniken climbed, we can enjoy some of their social media posts from their trip. Full report in our spring issue of Gripped magazine.

Last pic of the “Christmas Tree”… We- or maybe I, ran away again yesterday… With hopes of getting more photos on the route, we hiked back in two more times. I honestly had nightmares each night, wondering what makes this ice stay standing? When and how and at what temps does gravity win? Perhaps we were extremely fortunate to run in there and climb it after 40 hours of travel. Perhaps it will stay standing for another month and if it were somewhere else, would see multiple more ascents. I’ll never know. Yesterday, at the first belay, water was running in a lot of places. As an ice climber, water running on rock, behind ice is never something you want to see especially on steep features. I was scared. I was also very frustrated by my fears and how much they took over. @realwillgadd was a champion partner in all ways. Despite wanting to share the second pitch photos that @johnpricephotography could have taken on a rope up there to the world, he listened to my anxiety and we went down. His tenacity got us up the tree the first day and I’ll be forever grateful for that… but even more so for being a partner that I can trust and rely on when the unknowns become dragons that I can’t slay… @outdoorresearch

A post shared by Sarah Hueniken (@huens) on

The first in a storm of wild shots from the recent China mission from @johnpricephotography, just starting to share some of the shots from the last two weeks @huens and I spent chasing wild ice in China! Climbers describe ice formed in complicated combinations of spray, air and water as “cauliflower ice,” but on this climb the ice vegetables were as big as school busses! The tops made belay ledges, but the bottom of each petal made a fragile and steep ice overhang. I’ve never climbed anything this steep on a pure waterfall ice climb before, just wild! The best place for screws was at the bottom of each petal, with the screw placed up at about a 30 degree angle. The ice at the bottom of these monsters is the most solid, and attached to the vertical rock. The soft petals themselves generally won’t hold a screw, and even if they did the massive petals still break sometimes so placing gear into the free-leaning (not exactly hanging? What do you even call that?) portion would be a bad idea. @huens looks nervous because she was; the first pitch was detached from the wall despite being vertical, and it was either go down or come up with the plan B shown here, which meant climbing the overhanging petals. Sometimes you’ve got to take the harder line to be safer… Without mixed climbing fitness this sort of climbing just wouldn’t happen, locking off and swinging on overhanging ice is strenuous, and requires careful planning so the falling pieces don’t take your head off. One dented my new Vapour helmet, made me glad my tools were solid. The truth is that the ice climbing in China pushed @huens and me as hard as we could handle. Some days we bit into the insanity and danced with it, but on others we ran away… The relatively warm and seemingly relatively constant temperatures allowed some really wild-ass ice to grow in formations I’ve never seen anywhere “normal,” more like Helmcken or Niagara. Mind and body blown. This climb is Fairy Falls, just outside Beijing. Access is a little complicated, a huge thanks to @riverhechuan and Han Han for showing us around. We wouldn’t have found much without them, nor had half as much fun, Xie Xie!

A post shared by Will Gadd (@realwillgadd) on



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prohibited from stepping on them for sporting reasons


This is an error

        

The Aragonese mountaineers did not give credit to what appeared in the draft of the Master Plan of Use and Management (PRUG) of the glaciers of the Aragonese Pyrenees. Nothing less than proposed to prohibit "climbing, cross-country skiing and sports of any kind in the glaciers." This would, among other things, prohibit the ascent to the Aneto, among other emblematic mountains of the central Pyrenees.

        

Large spaces
– Wednesday, February 28, 2018 – Updated at 10: 20h

                

                
                

 

                     Footprints on the Aneto glacier.

Footprints on the Aneto glacier. (Rubén Gimeno)

    

 
        
        



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Indoor Weekly: Training with Tom Randall and Ollie Torr


The Lattice training system has a big following of users. In these videos, Tom Randall and Ollie Torr from Lattice works one on one with climbers to improve their performances.

Lattice was originally conceived to analyse whether a training program design was effective in international competition climbers.

A highly targeted period of training would be followed for a season, but come the end of the period it was very hard to measure the effectiveness of the training.

So much of climbing can written off as a factor of technique, tactics or psychology that sometimes it’s very hard to cut through the “noise” and work out what is really going on at a physical level.

    Lattice took the methods of assessment and analysis out of the competition scene and applied it to boulderers, sport climbers and trad climbers.

    They are always asking: What limits physical performance in the forearm? How is your blood lactate threshold level holding you back on your project? How much efficiency is it possible to get from each energy system when you’re already operating at the highest standards?

    With these questions in mind, Lattice started collecting data from climbers and analyzing it in the context of our existing knowledge of sports science.

    This has allowed them to pin point factors contributing to the best performances and, conversely, they’ve also found it astoundingly useful in identifying which physical factors are limiting many climbers out there.

    Watch these videos that focus on how to improve power, strength and endurance.



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    How is the winter expedition to K2 without Urubko?


    Wednesday, February 28, 2018 – Updated at 3:00 p.m.

    The march of Denis Urubko has left the expedition lame
    Polish to the winter K2. So far, he had led the team leadership,
    marking the tips of height – both on the Cesen route and on the route of the
    Ram of the Abruzzos- and had clearly shown himself as the strongest and
    capable. In fact, one of his disagreements with Krzysztof Wielicki
    produced the day he installed the C2 alone and wanted to have climbed up
    C3 to finish the acclimatization but the expedition leader ordered him to
    get off.

    How are the Poles without Urubko? What possibilities
    have to reach the top of K2 in the three weeks left to this
    winter? The first part of the answers has the meteorology, which
    seems determined not to give any option. The second part corresponds to the
    climbers Who are they and what can we expect from them?

    Adam Bielecki, the
    only acclimatized

    Adam Bielecki (34 years old) has been the strongest of the
    Polish He was the only one who was able to follow Denis Urubko, despite the fact that
    his performance has been reduced by the accident he had near the C1 of
    Cesen route, when a stone fallen from higher levels hit him in the
    head and it caused an ugly wound in the nose that his own companions
    they had to suture.

    According to Piotr Snopczynski, the doctor who has joined
    the expedition this week, Adam Bielecki is fully recovered and in
    shape. So, and if nothing unusual happens, he will undoubtedly be in the rope that
    try the top of the winter K2.

    It is worth remembering that Adam Bielecki was one of the
    great stars of the expedition from the beginning. Not in vain, in his
    history has the first winter ascents to Gasherbrum
    I
    and at Broad
    Peak
    .

    Janusz Golab se
    postulate

    In the last hours, Janusz Golab (50) has taken a step forward
    and has been nominated as a possible rope partner of Adam Bielecki for
    try the top. Of course, he has also warned that it is not enough
    acclimatized to launch an attempt in the first window of good weather that
    open Before that, it should rise on occasion up to 7,200 or 7,400 m
    from C3 and spend one or two nights there, as he himself has said. These
    heights of the expedition, Janusz Golab still has not exceeded 6,700 meters
    and it has been 10 days since he leaves the base camp.

    Janusz Golab is one of the most experienced mountaineers in the
    Polish group. In his history it appears to have completed with Adam Bielecki
    the first winter to Gasherbrum
    I
    . It is logical then that the fans of that country dream of the reissue
    of a rope that completed that expedition with total success.

    Artur Malek, other
    candidate

    Another name that stands out among the remaining members of the
    The Polish group is Artur Malek (37). Share with Janusz Golab the
    honor of having accompanied Adam Bielecki in a first winter ascent to
    an eight-thousand, in his case the Broad
    Peak
    although that expedition brings an unfortunate memory to perish
    during the descent the other two climbers who reached the top: Maciej
    Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski
    .

    In your case, the process of acclimatization goes even something by
    behind that of Janusz Golab, it has only reached 6,500 m from C2
    low. Of course, it has the advantage that it has been active more recently,
    yesterday just descended to the CB in the last rotation.

    Marcin Kaczkan, a
    nod to the story

    The name of Marcin Kaczkan (44) has a very strong link
    special with the winter K2. In fact, he shares with Denis Urubko and Piotr
    Morawski the milestone of having reached the maximum height in the winter K2 (7,650
    m) in the 2002-2003 expedition. He was Denis' partner in the attack on
    summit, but a bad night in height left him touched and only the obstinacy of
    Kazakh allowed not to stay there forever.

    As for its acclimatization this year, it has also reached
    the 6,700 m of C2, from where it descended yesterday to the base camp.

    Maciej Bedrejczuk, the
    passion of youth

    Maciej Bedrejczuk (35) is probably the most unknown
    of all the members of the expedition and the youngest except for Adam
    Bielecki. He had never ascended to an eight-thousand and his performance is
    surprising positively, being able to keep up with his peers.

    In the last rotation he has made roped with Marcin Kaczkan and
    it has also reached 6,700 m from C2.

    Marek Chmielarski,
    Piotr Tomala, Darek Zaluski …

    The expedition still has three other members
    (Two other members, Rafal Fronia and Jaroslaw Botor left earlier).
    Marek Chmielarski (45) has followed some acclimation guidelines similar to those
    of his teammates and yesterday he returned to the CB after having reached 6,500
    m. The role of Piotr Tomala (45) has been significantly diluted after having
    participated in the rescue in the Nanga Parbat. While the veteran Darek
    Zaluski (58) works mainly as a photographer and photographer.

                    

    the techniques of using the strings

                                    

    How to string

    Use of rope in mountains

    by

    A manual that gathers all the techniques of using the mountain ropes, whether it is an ascent or an alpine climb with different difficulties in rock, ice, glaciers and nine.

                                    



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    Hervé Barmasse comes out in defense of Denis Urubko, "the new Jerzy Kukuczka"


    Desnivel.com
    – Wednesday, February 28, 2018 – Updated at 12: 28h

    Few presentations needed Hervé Barmasse one of the
    most outstanding European climbers of today, who has starred climbs
    in a light style and committed to mountains of half the world. Have in the
    Matterhorn its favorite playground and has carried out climbs of soaring
    level, several of them alone. Of reflective and analytical personality,
    It is always interesting to chat with him or read his texts, which have crystallized
    in books like The
    mountain inside
    published by Desnivel.

    Hervé Barmasse has followed with attention – like any other
    mountaineering fan – the development of the Polish expedition to the winter K2.
    Following what happened with the attempt of Denis Urubko alone and without permission
    Krzysztof Wielicki the head of the expedition, has written the following
    text:

    There are climbers and then
    there are the out of series
    . To be, you must show some qualities
    physical-athletic above the norm, coherence with their own ideals,
    respect for values, ethics and above all the ability to carry out in
    lonely climbs that many would consider impossible for a team.

    Even without being of
    according to the heavy style used by the Polish expedition on K2 in
    these cold months -as in general in the eight-thousanders-, I think that Urubko is a
    out of series from another time
    . I could go so far as to say that is the new
    Jerzy Kukuczka
    to quote another of the great mountaineers of the Himalayas. Not only
    I respect his decision to leave alone, but in my heart I expected him to have
    success
    . Because Denis pursues the impossible, invites to dream and becomes fascinating
    a mountaineering
    that too often is emphasized by their own
    protagonists and by many journalists.

    Regarding the beginning and
    at the end of winter, still today I read people who enjoy making fun of him
    for his idea that he considers the calendar of Nepal valid (from December 1
    to February 28)
    and not that of Europe (from December 21 to March 21). In
    defense of Denis, and also for the consistency of his actions, I would like
    emphasize that is not an invention of his as I have read several times in the last
    days. And the Polish team, which today mocks the Kazakh with the irony of denying him
    the internet password, knows it better than anyone else.

    Denis, like others
    out of series of the history of Himalayism (I quote as examples, among others,
    Jean Troillet, Pierre Alain Steiner and Erdhard Loretan ), have always held
    that the dates of the winter calendar follow that of the regions in which
    They find the great mountains. Dates (December 1 to February 28) that
    were discussed when, for the edition of the Piolets d'Or 2005, it was
    nominated the French lone Jean-Christophe Lafaille for the first winter of the
    Shisha Pangma On February 24-25, 2005, I was a spectator in the
    Piolets d'Or and the presenter of Qui Montagne and president of the jury, Krzysztof
    Wielicki
    (which happens to be the same Wielicki chief of the expedition to K2), put
    a decisive negative veto on considering the ascent of Lafaille winter
    occurred on December 11, 2004. First winter subsequently recognized
    to the Italo-Polish team (Moro and Morawski) for the ascension in January
    of 2005.

    These are the facts
    that place Denis and Krzysztof definitely in different positions, and
    they make evident the clash between the two great climbers . But see that it
    mock a climber of the caliber of Denis who demonstrates not knowing the
    Mountaineering history … I must be honest, I am deeply disappointed.
    Also for the fact that, if there is a genuine and sincere person in our
    world of "conquerors of the useless", that is precisely Denis
    .

    Today, the
    interests are so great because of the sponsors, and everything is put in doubt to
    through information, often superficial and inaccurate, that travels throughout
    speed over the internet Nobody has the will to inform itself properly. But,
    beyond the reasons of the protagonists of this matter, for someone like
    I used to think that the mountain unites people and does not divide them, today I finish
    dejected and bitter. Mountaineering runs the risk of becoming a sport
    noble to trash
    .

                    



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    Denis Urubko tells his solo attempt to winter K2


    It reached the 7,600 meters and fell into a crack

            

    The Russian-Polish mountaineer is already on his way
    towards Skardu after having abandoned the Polish winter expedition to K2. These are his first
    impressions of what he lived on the mountain.

            

    Desnivel.com
    – Wednesday, February 28, 2018 – Updated at 10:03 p.m.

                    

                    
                    

     

                         Denis Urubko to 7,600 in the winter K2 2018.

    Denis Urubko to 7,600 in the winter K2 2018. (© Denis Urubko)

        

     
            
            

    Denis Urubko has already left the base camp of the winter K2 .
    After his attempt alone and without permission of Krzysztof Wielicki the leader of
    the expedition, he had no choice but to leave and leave for home. Before
    of undertaking the trekking back to Skardu this morning, has had
    the occasion to send a text in which he has firsthand how was his
    adventure in the mountain these days, in which reached an estimated height of
    about 7,600 meters
    very close to the maximum height ever reached in the winter K2
    (the 7,650 m that precisely he himself tried in 2003 together with Marcin Kaczkan and
    Piotr Morawski).

    In the text -in Russian-, Denis Urubko warns that for now
    will only talk about "the action" and that leaves "the reasons and the reasons, the
    inconsistencies and problems "for later
    . Explain that he was catching
    eaten stealthily to prepare for his plan and it was not necessary
    haul gas because they had stored more than enough in the camps of
    height.

    "The weather forecast for February 26 is the day of
    the opportunity. I do not want to transfer responsibility to anyone. I escape in
    secret after breakfast
    and climb to 6,250 m. Here is my store and heaps
    of bad weather ", tells about the first day of his attempt. Bad weather
    It was a constant that accompanied him during the three days he was away from
    base field.

    "The next day it reached 7,200 m and evil continues
    time, "insists Denis, who had to dig a cave in the snow to pass the
    night. It was put on at dawn, still in the dark at 3:30
    hours. According to his narration, he observed risk of avalanches on the slopes of K2 ,
    as it exceeded the maximum height reached by Adam Bielecki and himself
    a few days before.

    Denis Urubko explains that it was avoiding holes and cracks
    until reaching below the Shoulder, "probably at 7,600 m"
    . "You do not intuit
    Let the sun rise … nothing at all. Only a huge storm. " TO
    Then, Denis had an incident that was about to ruin
    everything: "Suddenly, a glow and a crack to my left. Caught! To me
    right, a hole opens up to the center of the planet. Right, I've fallen
    about five meters after a snow bridge collapsed
    . Now I need a
    miracle! I find the way out. Thanks to my father for intuition
    I carry in my blood! "

    After leaving the crack, he began the descent, immersed in a
    time getting worse until arriving at night at base camp . "And up to date
    Next, the time, incredible as it may seem, got even worse! "

                    



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