Indoor Weekly: TNF Youth Boulder Championships in Quebec


This morning, a press conference was held to unveil the program and the evaluation criteria of The North Face Youth Boulder National Championships which will be held for the first time in the city of Québec from Feb. 17 to 19, 2018 at Délire Escalade Ste-Foy.

The event is the highest level of national boulder competition sanctioned by Climbing Escalade Canada (CEC). Almost 220 athletes between the ages of 12 and 19 from all provinces of Canada will meet in a competition with complex courses that will test their determination and strength to the utmost degree.

Representatives from all of the participating organizations closely linked to the smooth running of the championships were at Délire Ste-Foy today. Mr. Vincent Légaré, co-owner of Délire Escalade, took the opportunity to emphasize how proud his team was to have been chosen as hosts of the event.

As he put it, “Climbing Escalade Canada, the national federation of sport climbing, chose Délire Escalade to hold the event because our facilities are among the best in the country and we have an experienced team at hosting major competitive events.”

Mr. Légaré also presented the program of the Championships, which will begin on Saturday, February 17 with the qualification rounds from 8 am to 2:30 pm (Youth B and C) and from 3:30 to 10 pm (Youth A and Junior). The sixteen highest-ranked individuals from each category will advance to the next stage.

The semi-finals will be held on February 18 from 9 am to 1 pm (Youth B and C) and from 2 to 6 pm (Youth A and Junior), following the same format as for the qualification rounds. The eight highest-ranked individuals will advance to the last stage.

At 7:30 pm, at the Grand Times Hotel, Jeffrey Thomson, High Performance Director of CEC, will give a lecture for athletes, coaches and parents. The finals, which will determine the champions in each age category, will be held on Monday, February 19 from 9 am to 1 pm (Youth B and C) and from 2 pm to 6 pm (Youth A and Junior). The medal ceremony will start at 6 pm.

Délire Escalade is happy to have The North Face, a true leader in outdoor recreation and sporting activities, as a title sponsor of the championships. This natural fit allowed both companies to support the competitive climbing industry and help it develop. As Max Turcotte, marketing coordinator for The North Face Canada, said, “The North Face has been an avid partner of the climbing community for more than 50 years.”

Dung Nguyen, director of Climbing Escalade Canada and a member of the Commission compétition of the Fédération québécoise de la montagne et de l’escalade (FQME), presented the role of climbing organizations on the Quebec circuit as well as the current composition of the Quebec team.

Two athletes who had been particularly successful on the international stage, Babette Roy and Quebec youth champion Hugo Dorval, were there this morning to give us a live demonstration. Mr. Nguyen stated that these climbers had made impressive progress.

In his words, “Since 2009, we have seen the beginnings, the progress and, now, the performance of certain thriving athletes. Some of them have joined the national team and represent Canada internationally, such as Babette Roy who notably came in first in the combined event and first in her group at the 2017 Panamerican Championship.”

Dung Nguyen highlighted that this prestigious event is a qualification round for the world youth championship, an International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) event held in August 2018.

Mr. Nguyen also explained the selection process for this competition as well as the evaluation criteria by which the young athletes will be judged. These criteria are consistent with the regulations set by the IFSC (for more details, see http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_competitions/Event_regulations/IFSC-Rules_2017_V2.1.pdf).

As registration for the tournament ends today, the final list of competitors will be known this Friday, February 2, following which this list will be available on Délire Escalade’s website. Since it has become an official sport for the 2020 Olympic Games, several young climbers have their sights set on competing in the 2024 Games.

A Next Generation to Watch Out For
Even though the names of all the athletes who will compete in The North Face Youth Boulder National Championships are not yet known, several climbers who have shone on the Canadian stage have confirmed their presence.

Among the young athletes who we will see in action in mid-February are Zachary Mathieu, a member of the Quebec team who placed first in the overall rankings at the Coupe Québec 2017 (Youth A), Dylan Le, a member of the Quebec team who finished first in the overall ranking at the boulder provincial championships (Youth C) and Sophie Valence, a member of the Quebec team who finished first in the boulder provincial championships (Youth A).

Délire Escalade: A Benchmark in Climbing in Quebec
Founded in 2008 by Lisa Lajoie, Jeff Beaulieu and Vincent Légaré, three climbing enthusiasts, Délire Escalade will celebrate the tenth anniversary of its Beauport branch this year. At 45 feet tall, it has the highest walls in the city of Québec. 2018 also marks the third anniversary of its Ste-Foy branch, which, in less than two years of operations, has doubled its floor area to 17,500 square feet.

These two rooms allow for the practice of the three main types of climbing – lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing –, offer yoga classes, a training gym, outdoor outings for rock climbing or ice climbing and provide a large variety of training courses from beginning to advanced.

For almost 10 years now, Délire Escalade has witnessed and participated in the development of the recreational and competitive parts of climbing with the creation of the Club compétitif d’escalade de Québec (CCEQ) in 2010, which today offers four kinds of training, including Next Gen (7-12 years old), Elite (13-17 years old) and Excellence (16 years and up).

In collaboration with two secondary schools, Cardinal-Roy and La Seigneurie, Délire Escalade has also set up a fourth option called Concentration Escalade which will be operational starting in September 2018. Délire Escalade is a real breeding group for high-performance athletes.

In fact, since 2008, several of its athletes have participated in major international competitions and have made it to the Canadian junior championships and been part of the Canadian junior team every year since, such as Loïck Martel Magnan (2014 junior world champion in New Caledonia), David Trudeau (2016 junior world champion in China), William St-Laurent (2012 world champion in Singapore) and Yoann Arpin (2010 Panamerican Championship in Ecuador), to name but a few.

Moreover, did you know that Délire Escalade’s industry has equipped several large sports halls on the Quebec, Canadian and international circuits for more than fifteen years? This young flagship of Quebec’s climbing industry is a fast-growing company that has not finished making its mark.



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The Dawn Wall Movie to Premiere at SXSW Festival


Sender Films has announced that The Dawn Wall movie will premiere at the South by Southwest Festival this year. There will be a full theatrical release later in the season.

Directored by Josh Lowell and Peter Mortimer, the film summary reads: “Legendary free climber Tommy Caldwell tries to get over heartbreak by scaling 1,000 metres of an impossible rock face: the Dawn Wall of El Capitan.”

On Facebook, Sender announced, “Big news: we are thrilled to announce that our new feature length documentary, The Dawn Wall, will premiere at the SXSW Film Festival in March.

It’s an understatement to say we are incredibly excited and honored to get this film out into the world. Full theatrical release is slated for later in 2018. Thanks and gratitude to Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson and Red Bull Media House Films for making the movie possible. Next stop: SXSW!”

For a full list of films at the festival see here.



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Epic Avalanche Conditions in Canadian Rockies


It’s the end of January and avalanche conditions in the Canadian Rockies are as bad as they get.

More than one expert would tell you to just stay out of the mountains this week, at least until things settle down. Monitor the avalanche conditions here.

For the avalanche bulletin for Banff, Little Yoho, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks on Wed. Jan. 31, 2018, the statement read:

“Large and destructive avalanches are likely. Step way back and avoid avalanche terrain. Avalanche control is planned for Mt. Bosworth, Mt. Dennis Mt. Field and Mt. Whymper tomorrow. No activity permitted in these areas.”

Leading avalanche expert Grant Statham had this to say about ice climbers and avalanches, “Every year there are numerous close-calls and/or accidents with ice climbers and avalanches.

“It is a very real hazard, and it should be on your mind every time you plan to go ice climbing.

Avalanche on Polar Circus. Photo Alex Ratson

“If you don’t know much about avalanches, take a weekend course and learn. Read some books, go online. Learn to read the avalanche forecast every time you go climbing. Take it really seriously.”

Read a full interview with Statham about ice climbers and avalanches here. And be careful this week if you’re heading to the mountains.

Statham gave a TEDx talk about risk in 2013, watch below.



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Watch Alex Megos Climb at Leonidio in Greece


Kieran Duncan spent a week filming world-class rock climber Alex Megos at the second annual Leonidio Climbing Festival in November 2017.

“An absolute pleasure to be back in beautiful Leonidio, and a great experience to film one of the strongest climbers out there crushing hard new routes,” said Duncan.

For more information on Leonidio please visit here.



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Watch How to Make Your Own Stick Clip


We’ve all been there, stood at the bottom of a crag wishing we could clip the first bolt before we start our route.

This is often the case when there are tough, bouldery moves at the start of a route or an awkward landing beneath the climb.

Maybe you left the clip stick at home, maybe you never thought you’d need one. Don’t despair though, because now you can make your own whenever it’s required.

Top climber Jonathan Siegrist has been sport climbing long enough to know a trick or two and in this video he shows us how to clip the first bolt using nothing more than a stick, a stone and a little ingenuity.

He’s even got you covered if the quickdraw is already in place thanks to some deft rope work.

So sit back, have a watch and in just two minutes you’ll know everything you need to convince your friends that you’re a clip stick wizard.



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Alpinist Tomek Mackiewicz Dies on Nanga Parbat


Tomek Mackiewicz was a leading Polish alpinist and high-altitude mountaineer, he died on Nanga Parbat at the age of 43.

Mackiewicz, who once traversed Canada’s highest peak, used climbing as a recovery to his heroin addiction and personal struggles.

He grew up in the small town of Dzialoszyn and began climbing in 2008 with his 40-day Mount Logan expedition with Mark Klonowski. He received the Colossi Feat of the Year 2008, an award from Kolosy, the largest European meeting of explorers and adventurers.

His expeditions were mostly crowdfunded and after every climb his ambitions would grow.

In 2009, he soloed Khan Tengri 7,010 m, the most northern 7,000-metre peak on earth, in Tian Shan.

His attempts to climb Nanga Parbat began in 2011 with Klonowski, his partner from Mount Logan. Despite not reaching the summit, he returned every winter since to attempt it. Every time without supplemental oxygen.

In 2013, he made it to 7,400 metre before turning around due to bad weather. His obsession with the peak grew over the years. In 2014, French alpinist Elizabeth Revol teamed up with him.

They made three attempts together over the years. Their first was up The Messner/Eisendle/Tomaseth route, where they reached 7,800 metres.

Mackiewicz would make his seventh attempt at Nanga Parbat this winter, again with Revol. There are varying reports about how high they made it, but somewhere on the Diamer side of the mountain the weather turned on them.

The storm forced Mackiewicz to call for help, he’d developed frostbite and snow blindness. Mackiewicz’s call for help reached family and friends and everyone worked together to attempt a rescue.

There are very few climbers in the world who could attempt a rescue at such a high elevation. But at the same time as Mackiewicz and Revol’s attempt, another team of Polish climbers were attempting the first winter ascent of K2.

On Jan. 27, a rescue team including Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki were picked up and dropped off by a helicopter at 4,900 metres on Nanga Parbat.

They climbed to 6,026 metres before reaching Revol who was descending without Mackiewicz to get help. Mackiewicz was in his tent at around 7,400 metres.

Ludovic Giambiasi, Revol’s partner, wrote on a Facebook post, “The rescue for Tomasz is unfortunately not possible – because of the weather and altitude it would put the life of rescuers in extreme danger.

“It’s a terrible and painful decision. All our thoughts go out to Tomek’s family and friends. We are crying.” Revol was later carried to Islamabad for treatment.

Mackiewicz is survived by his wife and three children and a fundraiser has been started here to help during this time.



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Denis Urubko, rescues ahead of the top


Slope
– Wednesday, January 31, 2018 – Updated at 2:27 p.m.

Denis Urubko is one of the best
mountaineers of the moment, if not the best. Accumulate 21 eight thousand
completed the Catorce in 2009, without supplemental oxygen and with a
exemplary trajectory. He has signed new routes at Broad Peak, the
Manaslu, the Cho
Oyu
and the Lhotse (solo), a new variant to
Kangchenjunga and first winter in the Makalu
and the Gasherbrum II … and now look for the first winter also of the
K2 His ascensions have reported him a Piolet d'Or (2010) and three
Piolets d'Or of Asia (2006, 2009, 2011).

But Denis Urubko is also a
person of solid values ​​and of a great humanity. Always has
sustained that people's lives are above summits
and the mountains. Throughout the years of his vast experience
himalayística, that opinion has been put to the test in numerous
occasions, and he has always responded in the same way: he has left
aside his personal goal to try to save whoever was
in danger.

Next, we do a review
of the different rescue operations in which he has participated
Denis Urubko in the eight thousand years between 2001 and 2018. A compendium of
courageous actions and altruistic performances that speak of him better
than any ascensions curriculum:

Lhotse, Spring 2001

Denis Urubko traveled to Nepal that
year with Simone Moro to make his second attempt at the crossing
Everest-Lhotse
. However, his plans were cut on the 21st of
May on the way to Collado Sur. Suddenly, they received two notices of
help and Denis Urubko went up to help the Polish Anna Chervinskaya,
that it could not go below 8,200 m and suffered from freezing problems.
He managed to help her down to C4.

On that occasion, they had to
give up the Everest-Lhotse crossing, but Denis Urubko still
took strength to complete the ascent to Lhotse by the route
normal (in 2009, it was promoted again by a new route).

Shisha Pangma, autumn 2002

Denis Urubko went to Shisha Pangma in
autumn of 2002 with a Kazakh team of which they were also part
Maxut Zumayev, Alexey Raspopov and Vassily Pivtsov. They arrived
late in the season and most other expeditions had already
abandoned. However, the Slovenian Tomasz Humar remained there,
who joined the Kazakhs in their attempt to top. The five
reached the summit on October 25.

During the descent, about 6,500
meters, Tomasz Humar disappeared into a hole in the snow and
He stopped about five meters below the ground. Among all
They managed to get him out of that crack and continue descending
to the store, located at 6,100 m.

K2, winter of 2002/03

Denis Urubko was invited by
Krzysztof Wielicki to the Polish expedition that would try the first
Winter ascent to K2 between the end of 2002 and the beginning of 2003.
Making a run with Marcin Kachkan, on February 26, 2003
progressed in the upper part of the mountain when the Polish started
to feel bad at 7,750 m. Then followed an epic descent,
in which Denis Urubko was able to help his partner to descend with
slowness. A little above the C3, they met Krzysztof
Wielicki, who joined the support. At 7:30 p.m., at night,
they arrived safely at C1, where Kachkan was treated with oxygen,
and at 22:30 hours they managed to reach the advanced base camp.

Broad Peak, summer of 2003

Denis Urubko and his companions
Kazakhs came to the Karakoram with the ambitious goal of climbing
the Nanga Parbat, the Broad Peak and the K2 in the same season. After
make summit in Nanga Parbat, they moved to Broad Peak and 15
July were 7,200 m, ready to try the summit a day
following. That same day, Jean-Christophe Lafaille reached the top
in an extremely light style.

During the descent of the climber
French, the bad weather worsened and the Kazakhs sheltered him in his
store and treated him with the medicines they were carrying. Nonetheless,
his condition did not improve and Denis Urubko helped him descend to
the base camp on July 16, while his companions Maxut Zumayev
and Vassily Pivtsov were summiting. Not satisfied with the situation,
Denis Urubko went out immediately to the fields of
height and on July 18 he also got the summit of the Broad
Peak.

Annapurna, Spring 2008

In 2003, Denis Urubko had
known to Iñaki Ochoa de Olza in the Nanga Parbat, where they locked
friendship. On May 20, 2008, the alarm went off for the mountaineer
Navarro, who was in poor condition and was not able to
descend from C4 Annapurna (7,400 m) by their own means.

At 5:00 am in the morning of the
May 21, Mingma Sherpa pulled Denis Urubko out of bed,
I had just arrived in Kathmandu after making a summit at Makalu. I do not doubt
in packing a light backpack and getting on a helicopter with destiny
to the bsae field of Annapurna.

On May 22 early, Denis
Urubko and Dan Bowie left the base camp carrying oxygen to
Iñaki They made an express ascension. They went up that same day to
C2 of the pull and pretended to reach the height of Iñaki a day
following. In fact, they were a few hours away when they
it produced his death.

Nanga Parbat, winter of 2017/18

Once again, this winter has been
repeated the story. Denis Urubko did not hesitate to travel
from K2 to Nanga Parbat to try to rescue Tomek Mackiewicz and
Elisabeth Revol, with problems to descend from the summit.
They ascended at full speed with Adam Bielecki 1,100 ms of unevenness
for a route that had not been climbed by anyone for months. his
effort had as a reward the salvation of the French mountaineer,
which they found at dawn at 6,100 m and helped to get off.

                

Step by step, with the necessary tenacity

                                

 Cover of the book Nanga by Simone Moro. "Src =" http://static.desnivel.com/images/2017/10/26/nanga_web.jpg "style =" margin: 5px; padding: 0px; line-height: normal; border: 0px solid; font-size: 1em; width: 150px; height: 230px; float: left; "/> </p>
<h5>
</h5>
</p>
<p> NANGA </p>
<p> <em> by Simone Moro </em> </p>
<p> Step by step, with the necessary tenacity not to surrender, and with the permanent respect towards the mountain, the nature and the limits of the human being. </p>
<p>                                </p></div>
</div>
</div>
</pre>
<p><br />
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The Ecuadorian Daniela Sandoval beats the women's record in the Aconcagua


20 hours and 17 minutes

        

The young athlete set an impressive time of 20 hours and 17 minutes, 2
 hours and 35 minutes less than the Brazilian Fernanda Maciel.

        

By Jorge Federico Gómez
– Wednesday, January 31, 2018 – Updated at 08: 00h.

                

                
                

 

                     Daniela Sandoval new women's record at Aconcagua (20h and 17min.).

Daniela Sandoval new women's record in the Aconcagua (20h and 17min.). (Jorge Federico Gómez)

    

 
        
        

Once again Ecuador took over Aconcagua. Like his compatriots Karl Egloff and Nicolás Miranda, owners of the records of ascent in speed by the normal route and by the 360 ​​° respectively, the young Ecuadorian Daniela Sandoval (26 years old) enrolled this Tuesday its name in the great history of the world mountaineering when beating the feminine world mark of non stop ascent by the normal route from Horcones to the summit back and forth in the incredible time of 20 hours 17 minutes, thus beating the one of the Brazilian Fernanda Maciel who in February 2016 completed the same trip in 22 hours and 52 minutes.

Visibly emotional and at the same time exhausted, Daniela arrived at the ranger post of Horcones at exactly 9:00 PM and 17:00 PM where she was greeted with applause and congratulations from the staff stationed there. Daniela had started her challenge at 1 o'clock in the morning from the same place.

During the whole journey it was assisted and in sections accompanied by Nicolás Miranda himself who arrived at Horcones running with her, overwhelmed by the excitement for the achievement of his compatriot and friend.

Daniela Sandoval had to give up the challenge last week, when at only 300 meters from the summit the harsh weather conditions, with winds that exceeded 100 kilometers per hour, did not allow her to continue. After returning to Uspallata to rest Sunday and Monday, this Tuesday Daniela faced the most transcendent test of her short but successful sports career, and this time she achieved the goal.

In the most absolute solitude, accompanied by a full moon and very good weather, at 01:00 AM I had faced the rise of Horcones towards the Confluencia camp, and from there directly by the extensive and endless Ancha beach towards Plaza de Mulas, where Nicolás Miranda was waiting for him with the necessary logistics to start the attack on the summit. At 13:35 the park rangers reported the athlete's arrival at the top, and the immediate descent . Once again in Mulas, Daniela changed her top clothes for the one of Trail running and faced the journey towards Horcones at full speed.

Daniela Sandoval belongs to the team Ecuador Closer to the So l and despite her young age has plenty of experience in competitions and mountain races. For the achievement of Aconcagua 2018 he faced intense training throughout the year.

Meteorology was more complacent with Daniela than with Karl and Nico, and a brief truce in the extremely strong winds that blew furiously throughout almost January allowed little Daniela to become the new star of the sport of mountain.

                

Practical guide of ascents and trekkings

                                

Aconcagua. Practical guide of ascents and trekkings

by Heber Orona

A guide aimed at all climbers and trekkers who, in some way, can find a wide range of information on the 34 climbing and ascent routes described, as well as their respective accesses and approaches and all the practical information that will make things easier. the time to embark on this fantastic journey.

                                



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Alex Txikon's winter Everest expedition reaches 7,800 m and goes for the C4 today


OBJECTIVE: COLLADO SUR (8,000 M)

        

Favorable weather conditions
have allowed the team to equate the route to beyond the Fringes
Yellow If the weather permits, today they could reach the Collado Sur (8,000 m)
and assemble the C4 before returning to the base camp.

        

Desnivel.com
– Wednesday, January 31, 2018 – Updated at 09: 18h.

                

                
                

 

                     Alex Txikon, in his winter Everest shop (January 2018)

Álex Txikon, in his winter Everest shop (Col. Á. Txikon)

    

 
        
        



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Indoor Weekly: How to Start Indoor Climbing


New to indoor climbing? Well there’s a lot to learn, experience and achieve, but starting isn’t as daunting as you might think.

First of all, don’t think that indoor climbing is all about hanging off your fingertips and taking big falls. Indoor climbing is one of the safest forms of climbing you can do and anyone at any age can do it.

And no matter what your climbing ambitions are, starting indoors is a great choice.

The first thing to do is to find a climbing gym nearest to you. A simple Google search will often do the trick.

Your first visit to a climbing gym can be exciting, intimidating and scary. But don’t be overwhelmed, every climber had to start at some point.

If you’re under 18, different rules might apply so call the gym first. Many climbing gyms offer courses and competitions for young climbers, but you might need parental permission or supervision.

Types of Indoor Climbing: There are three types of indoor climbing, two of which you can try on your first visit.

Bouldering: Bouldering walls are often short and low to the ground with big mats below them. Most gyms will have bouldering areas that are not difficult for new climbers.

Top Roping: Top roping means that you’ll be climbing up a wall too big to fall off safely without a rope. The rope is attached to a belayer, re-directed through an anchor above you and tied into your harness. All of the equipment, when used correctly, is many times stronger than it needs to be. Toping allows you to learn about rope systems and to trust the gear.

Leading: Leading means to climb with a rope tied to you and connected to a belayer. But the rope is not re-directed through an anchor above you. You must clip the rope through quickdraws in the wall as you climb. This is an advanced technique. Many climbers require a few months or a year before they start leading.

Top roping at Allez Up in Montreal

Clothing: You want to wear clothes that offer comfort and can stretch as you move. You don’t want to wear anything too baggy because it can catch on climbing holds.

Many brands, such as MEC, Black Diamond, Patagonia, Outdoor Research and others make climbing-specific clothing. Yoga-specific clothing work well.

There’s currently a trend to wear fashionable clothing when climbing. Just be sure to wear something you don’t mind getting chalk and sweat on.

Wear comfortable clothes that breathe and move well

Gear: There are a few pieces of equipment you’ll need before getting started. If you’re bouldering then you’ll need shoes and chalk. If you’re going to top rope, you’ll need a harness.

Harness: This is a must for climbing walls in a climbing gym. It’s also a versatile piece of gear for indoor and outdoor climbing.

Locking carabiner: Required to attach your belay device to your harness. Many gyms have belay devices and locking carabiners in place, but most require you to own your own.

Belay device: There are many belay devices on the market. Ask an expert to find what’s best for you.

Chalk bag and chalk: Chalk is used to keep your hands dry to prevent slipping. While new plastic climbing holds are often grippy, it helps to use chalk.

Climbing shoes: Climbing-specific shoes are flexible and help you stand on small holds. They should fit snug, but never too tight or hurt your feet.

Climbing ropes: For liability reasons, many climbing gyms provide ropes. Some require you to bring one for leading.

Getting Started: If you decide to top rope, you’ll need to learn a few basic skills before you’re allowed to climb without supervision.

You’ll need to learn how to put on a harness and how to tie a figure-eight knot, which is the point of connection between you and the top rope.

If you’ll be belaying, you’ll need to learn and demonstrate belaying skills. These include how to belay a climber up and how to lower them.

You can take a course to learn both the knot and how to belay. Instructors will often teach you the different kinds of climbing holds and their names.

Before visiting the climbing gym, call ahead to find out what is offered and how much the courses cost.

After you’ve learned how to tie a figure-eight knot and belay, you’ll be able to visit other climbing gyms and pass their belay tests.

The Climbing: After you’ve demonstrated that you can tie the knot and belay, you’ll be able to climb without supervision.

If you don’t have someone to climb with, there are often “meet a partner” groups and Facebook pages you can join to meet others.

There are many reasons why people climb at gyms, but the end goal for most is to improve technique, endurance and to get stronger.

Be patient and be honest about your ability. Don’t push yourself too hard, many climbers get injured by trying things too difficult for them.

Ask around and start on the easiest routes. Do lap after lap after lap until you’re comfortable on the easiest climb. This might take one visit or many, but start easy and work on progressing to more difficult climbs.

Climbing Gym Grades: The Yosemite decimal rating system is used in most gyms in North America. It uses a 5.0 to 5.15 scale.

Generally, handholds and footholds are biggest from 5.0 to 5.5. Most new climbers begin in this range, but it depends on your ability to climb and comfort level.

As the grades increase, the holds become smaller and/or more difficult to hold and the technique to required to move upward more advanced.

For bouldering ratings, North American gyms follow the V Scale, which then progresses from V0 through V16. Your gym might use colours or a different grading system for their boulders.

What’s Next? For many, indoor climbing will lead to outdoor climbing.

If that’s the case then seek a group of experienced outdoor climbers or a professional instructor, because many things are different than in a gym.

As more climbing gyms open, there’s a growing number of indoor-only climbers. And that’s why we’ve started Indoors Weekly, a column about indoor climbing-specific climbers, news, tips and information.

For indoor motivation, competition highlights and more, visit GrippedMagazineComps on Instagram below and click to play.



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