Big New Moderate Ice in Nova Scotia Caps 2017


There have been countless new ice, rock and alpine routes established in Canada in 2017.

From long and technical mixed climbs in the Rockies to technical 5.13d slabs in Squamish to 5.8 six-pitch adventure routes in Ontario to V13s in Val David to new ice climbs on the East Coast.

Over the past few days, Max Fisher and Greg Hughes have climbed a handful of new moderate ice lines in Nova Scotia to cap off the year.

Cape Chignecto is home to a concentration of multi-pitch ice lines in the Maritimes. It’s on par with Quebec’s Gaspiese in many ways.

“The few differences are managing the Bay of Fundy tides and it is fairly remote for maritime standards,” said Fisher.

New routing on the East Coast Photo Max Fisher

“Greg Hughes and I headed out to Chignecto for for days. Our first day we pushed farther along the coast than we had been before and found a number of beautiful 150 to 175-metre lines some formed and others forming up.

“We continued to explore and then decided to end the day climbing a beauty 150-metre WI3+, Hughes called Boxing Day Bash.”

The next day, they continued to explore farther up the coast and came across more climbs from 150-metre WI2s to rad and long WI5s.

“After putting in some time exploring, we climbed three more routes: Shore Thing WI2 120 metres, Cozy Warm WI3 150 metres and the 155-metre Chignecto Unchained M4 WI4,” said Fisher.

New routing on the East Coast Photo Greg Hughes

“Chignecto Unchained has a direct ice line that would go at WI4+, but it was soaking wet so we opted for the mixed start.”

On their last day, they climbed a thin new ice line. “It was probably my favourite route of the trip,” said Fisher.

“With the fog/rime/wind keeping us on our toes (windchill being -35C) we scrambled up third-class terrain to our belay and climbed loose/thin 35-metre mixed pitch to ice that was thick enough to take small screws.

New routing on the East Coast Photo Max Fisher

“Then we climbed the next 35 metres of fairly steep, brittle ice to the top. We called the 70-metre route The Key M3R WI4.”

After topping out The Key, they decided to head back to the car. As the tides were perfect for an exit, they walked the beach back in 1.5 hours.

“Timing the tides to have this exit is tricky,” said Fisher. “The maritime long range forecast is cold temps.”



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10 New Years Resolutions for Climbers


One of the best things about being a climber is that you’ll never run out of things to plan for.

From climbing in new areas to pushing the grades, there’s so much to do that you might need to quit your job, buy a van and hit the road.

That brings us to New Years resolution number one:

1. Quit you job, buy a van and hit the road: If you’ve already done this, then skip to number two.

But if you have’t then consider what you’re missing. No deadlines, alpine starts for sends only (not traffic) and all the free time in the world to pursue what matters most: finding somewhere to sleep between climbing.

Your van-life experience will change depending on how much capital you put into your van. Whether it’s a brand new Sprinter with a shower and fireplace or a gutted Astro Van with a stinky mattress, you won’t regret a thing.

Lydia Zamorano living he van life Photo Sonnie Trotter

2. Take a whipper: If you’ve never taken a whipper, then you’re missing out. Whippers are why we wear all of that shiny gear.

Even if you’ve taken a whipper, then take a bigger one. But don’t take whippers on slabs or ledgey routes. Start up that steep Red River Gorge overhang and go big.

3. Get used to failing: Us climbers fail so much that most of the time it’s straight F’s. From backing off routes to flailing on projects, we have no limit to our failures.

That’s part of climbing tho. We’re pushing to find that line between pass and fail. Don’t be discouraged, we’re all failures some times and that’s what makes it so sweet when we pass.

4. Don’t be a punter: Chances are good that you’re not a punter. Just remember that climbing is meant to be relaxing and fun.

If you leave trash at the crag, if you chip holds, if you tick every hold, if you blast music at the crag, if you create unnecessarily dangerous situations, if you don’t pick up your dog poop, if you’re rude, if you shout too much beta at strangers, if you rush others and if you hog routes all day then you’re a punter. Don’t be.

5. Warm up to avoid injury: Nearly all climbing injuries are preventable and you’re someone who gets injured often, then you’re doing it wrong.

Take time before you hang off your fingers to warm up. Get the blood flowing and stretch those muscles. You don’t want to sit 2018 out on the bench.

6. Take a friend climbing: Most climbers out there were introduced to the sport by family or friends. So pay it forward and introduce someone to the wonderful world up high.

Be sure you have your systems dialed before taking a new climber out. But sometimes there’s no better way to enjoy a day at the crag then seeing a friend get scared out of their mind.

7. Become one with the dyno: Lunging vertically between holds doesn’t come naturally to everyone.

Some climbers practice them on the regular, but others shy away. Learn from Toronto climber Ayo Sopeju below how best to perfect the art of the dyno.

8. Mix it up: There are so many disciplines of climbing that it’s easy to get focused on just one.

If you spend all of your time at the crag projecting, then mix it up this year and head up high on an easy multi-pitch. And if you spend all of your day slogging along glaciers, consider heading to the crag for some laps.

9. Wear a helmet: Don’t be a knucklehead and protect your brain at all costs. There are far too many accidents every year that result in death due to no helmet.

They are so lightweight, affordable and stylish that you don’t have an excuse. If you can live in an $80,000 Sprinter, you can own a helmet. Even if you live in a $500 K-car… you get the point.

Helmets, because goats are you to get you

10. Learn about access: One of the biggest issues in Canadian climbing (besides the number of head injuries from climbers who don’t wear helmets) is that too many access rules are being broken.

Whether you’re climbing on The Chief, in Echo Canyon, at Lion’s Head or Val David, don’t park where you’re not supposed to.

Pack out your trash, avoid bird closures, don’t poop on the trail and so on. Us climbers don’t have many rules so let’s work on keeping access open in 2018 by following the ones we do have.

Have a fun and safe 2018!



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Daniel Wood and Paul Robinson Design Climbing Shoes


What does it take to design the best climbing shoe on the market? Daniel Woods and I have been working hard with one of the best shoe manufacturers in the industry, Evolv, to make this a reality.

We all know that the shoes we climb in every single day are great and all, but there is something that we would all change.

Paul Robinson and Wood have been working with Evolv for the past year on new ideas.

“We flew out to California to test out some new and old shoes with the guys over at Evolv to see what it will take to make the greatest shoe the industry has ever seen,” said Robinson.

“We are about eight months away from announcing our pro-model shoe that we hope will be the ultimate shoe for hard rock climbing.”



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CEC Announces Long Term Athlete Development Program


Climbing Escalade Canada (CEC) is pleased to announce the release of its Long Term Athlete Development program. This document is a framework for the Sport Climbing community: coaches, officials, facility operators, and administrators, to guide development of programs for all athletes, in both recreational and competitive settings.

The recommendations made here are the result of collaboration by Canada’s Sport Climbing experts, an initiative of CEC, Climbing Escalade Canada. CEC recognizes a need for greater continuity within the Sport Climbing community and the broader sport system to provide all of our athletes with an equal opportunity to achieve great results, whether in local events or at international levels. This is another giant step forward for Sport Climbing in Canada.

This Long-Term Athlete Development (LTAD) framework is intended to support grassroots operations and established organizations, as a tool to create a solid foundation for athlete development programs, and to maintain continuity within the sport nationwide. Ultimately the climber is the only participant that is accountable for their performance, yet it is the Sport Climbing community which sets the conditions for performance. We envision the LTAD as a way to better prepare our athletes for all competition formats.

This document is the foundation for athlete development in both recreational and competitive indoor climbing. Areas of focus include Bouldering, Speed and Difficulty. A focus on these three areas covers the current needs for indoor Sport Climbing in Canada. The Sport Climbing LTAD framework is a stage-based approach to athlete development, with eight stages from birth and early childhood through to high performance and lifelong participation.

It is our hope that this program be adopted, used and shared throughout the competition and recreational climbing community.

Special thanks to the following people and organizations for their contributions to this project; Silvia McBurney, Climb for Life program lead.

The LTAD NCCP working group; Patrick Labelle, Andrew McBurney, Chris Neve, Sebastian Powell, Kellen Tapley, Andrew Wilson, Maria Izquierdo Executive board member of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and President of the Pan American Council Board, as well as Sean McColl Athlete Representative of the IFSC and professional sport climber.

Ontario Climb for Life coaches and Health Specialists participants, Dr. Ivy Cheng, Emergency Department Physician, Sports Medicine Specialist and Assistant Professor at the University of Toronto, Dr. Yasser El Sheikh, Plastic, Reconstructive and Cosmetic Surgeon, Surgery of the Hand, Wrist and Peripheral Nerve, Lesley Lacny M.A. Psychologist, Ivan Miskiv Fitness, Robert Rupf Physiologist, Mathew Tee RMT.

Alberta Climb for Life coaches and Health Specialist participants, Morgan Alexander, 2006 Olympian in Bobsled, Performance Director and Revolution Human Performance, USA based Steve Bechtel of ClimbStrong and Jared Vagy, Doctor of Physical Therapy, Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist.

Provincial Sport Organizations: Sport Climbing BC, Alberta Climbing Association, Federation Quebeoise de la Montagne et de l’Escalade, Ontario Climbing Federation, Alpine Club of Canada and Sport for Life.

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8 top models of cat feet


Here is a non-exclusive listing of several foot models
of cat that you will find at the moment in the stores, useful to compare prices
and benefits and decide according to your needs, whether you are
sports climbers, blocks, alpine, or a little bit of everything.

Friday, December 29, 2017 – Updated at 3:00 p.m.

Here we show some of the models more
interesting cat's feet
currently available in the market, although
remember that the important thing is to find a cat foot that suits the last
of your foot and the modality of climbing that you practice. There are from very
technical, specific for climbing walls, comfortable for long routes or those
They promise versatility. Do not forget to try it before buying them, it is essential.

Cat foot Joker de Boreal: comfortable but precise

If you are tired of suffering with the feet of a cat but not
you want to give up the precision that a very tight cat foot provides, this
it's a good option. The Joker Plus model from Boreal (in female and
male) has Zenith Quatro rubber and has a very attractive recommended price
from 89.95 euros. The climber Manu Córdoba teaches us in this video:

Scarpa Chimera cat's foot: maximum sensitivity

Model tested by our team of testators (was awarded
of silver in the last edition of the Material Slope Award) that adjudicate their
better use in technical ways with small songs where maximum is needed
sensitivity, highlighting also your good ajuiste. It has an approximate pvp of
159 euros. We see it in this video:

Skwama cat foot from La Sportiva: wraparound toe cap

A super enveloping cat foot, with rubber on the entire toe
for those steps of hooking on roads or collapsed blocks. It has a pvp
recommended of 139.99 euros. The climber and worker of La Sportiva Pietro
dal Pra shows it in this video, along with other more versatile models:

Anasazi Blanco by Five Ten: a renovated classic

The performance of the Anasazi model is well known,
as well as the Stealth C4 rubber, renewed now with this version a little more rigid
than its predecessors and a more enveloping heel. Has a recommended pvp of 159
euros In this video we see it with other models of the brand (including one
specific for rock climbing), also available in stores:

Mundaka de Tenaya: technical and versatile

It is a very technical cat but at the same time it is versatile and
allows you to be comfortable, although this combination of qualities seems like a
contradiction. It has a recommended price of 129.90 euros, here we see it more
background:

Shaman of Evolv: with the firm Sharma

Super aggressive toe and heel wrap for this foot of
cat in whose design has participated the same Chris Sharma, with adhesive rubber
Trax It has a recommended pvp of 130 euros. We see it in this video together with
Other models of the brand:

Curiosity Plus by Tulson Tolf

Although we do not have demonstration video, we do not forget
of the good models of this Spanish brand, recommending in particular the
Curiosity Plus model, put to the test by our team of testators with
good sensations. It has a recommended pvp of 95 euros. Here you can read the
test
.

Oxi from Ocún: for blockers

Within the proposed distinctions of the Czech brand
we highlight this asymmetrical model with a single velcro closure, fast and at the same time
of good fit, especially recommended for boulders but also useful for
sports or climbing wall. Made of microfiber, it has Grippin Sticky sole of 4
mm that provides excellent grip and that extends over part of the instep
to facilitate recesses and pitched steps on roofs. It has a pvp
recommended of € 99.95.

+ Tips for choosing cat's feet

As you have seen, the world of cat's feet is broad and
There are no options to choose from. We add these videos in which
climbers Pedro Pons (sponsored by Boreal) and Stefan Glowacz
(founder of the Red Chilli brand) give us some tips to get the right
purchase of a cat's foot:

                

The story in illustration format of the mountain material

                                

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<p> Climbing Tools </p>
<p> <em> by Eber Cameselle </em> </p>
<p> This book documents and collects the names of those dreamers who materialized the necessary tools to reach any peak. On the other hand, it has a more pragmatic and tangible functional variant that involves developing a great typology: covering all the tools and tools used in modern mountaineering and structuring and cataloging all these ingenious advances, accompanied by an illustration work in charge of shaping to this project. </p>
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The documentary about the attempt of David Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel to Annapurna III


FOR THE ARISTA SOUTHEAST

        

This short film has been awarded in
several mountain film festivals. Show the attempt for the impressive
southeast edge of the Annapurna III (7,555 m) that the terceto made in 2016.

        

Friday, December 29, 2017 – Updated at 12: 00h.

                

                
                

 

                     David Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel in the Annapurna III

David Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel in the Annapurna III

    

 
        
        



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Buenos Aires Youth Olympics Preparations Continue


Sport Director of the IFSC Jerome Meyer travelled to Buenos Aires this autumn, continuing work in the run-up to the Buenos Aires Youth Olympic Games in 2018.

The IFSC representative met with Sport Manager for the Buenos Aires Youth Olympic Games Julian de Mare, colleagues from the Argentinian National Federation, and Technical Manager of IFSC Walls partner Entre-prises, Etienne Leroy.

In the meeting, details of the venue for Sport Climbing were discussed and final details for the wall and the delivery were confirmed. Further organisation continues as the event quickly approaches.

Canada will be sending its top climbers for the event. For more on the Games see here.



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70 Years of Sport Climbing Comps Celebrated


The first climbing competitions were organized in the former USSR in the late 1940s. These events were focused on Speed climbing and were mostly dedicated to Soviet climbers until the 1980s.

The first Climbing World Cup in Moscow took place in 1994 at the Palace of Children Sport, a popular destination for many international events in the years to follow.

In the fall, Moscow hosted the 70th anniversary celebration of the first ever sport climbing event. The Combined event featured the format to be used at the Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018 and Olympic Games Tokyo 2020.

After almost nonstop climbing in all three disciplines, Speed world champion Anna Tsyganova and Bouldering icon Aleksei Rubtsov claimed the victories.

Russian athletes have continued to excel on the world stage, especially in Speed climbing, with countless victories and medals at all levels, especially in Bouldering and Speed.

Since the inception of the IFSC in 2007, Russia has topped the national team ranking in Speed climbing every year, with numerous star athletes winning gold medals. Russia’s own Iuliia Kaplina currently holds the women’s Speed climbing record (7.32 seconds).

IFSC President Marco Scolaris was invited to attend the event by Dmitry Bychkov, President of the Climbing Federation of Russia, and he was welcomed by Stanislavsky Pozdnyakov, the first Vice President of the Russian Olympic Committee and Assistant of Russian President for Economic Affairs Andrei Belousov.

During his visit, President Scolaris also met Aleksander Gorbenko, Deputy Mayor of Moscow and Nikolai Gulyaev, chairman of the Moscow sport department, with whom he discussed the future development of sport climbing in Moscow and future events in the capital, in particular the provisional IFSC Moscow World Cup 2018.

“We all know that Russian sport is living some turbulent times,” Scolaris said during his speech at the event. “But climbing is going up and sport climbing needs Russia. Let’s climb the world together and, through sport, through our sport, let’s make it a better place to live.”

The IFSC published this report on Dec. 11. For more from the IFSC see here.



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The best of mountaineering of 2017


Isaac Fernández / DESNIVEL
– Friday, December 29, 2017 – Updated at 09: 00h.

If the best mountaineering activities are usually already
varied and scattered across several areas of the globe, the bad weather this year has
dominated in Patagonia -where several of the most prominent ones used to concentrate-
It has helped to extend this trend even more. It's harder than ever
choose a single activity as the most representative, so it's best to give
round the world reviewing the most prominent in each place. Go ahead
that this article does not cover the activities carried out in the Himalayas, which
will be summarized in the summary of the best activities of the expeditions of
2017.

National mountaineering of
vanguard

Before starting to travel around the world, it's worth looking at
what Spanish climbers have done this year. Perhaps the most outstanding,
by innovative and bold, it was the Andalusian
José 'Pipi' Cardell
who, in concert with Denis Urubko made the opening in alpine style of Shashka
Route
(TD / ED, 90º / M4, 2,271
m) to the peak Chapáyev (6,371 m) from Tien Shan . An ascension that earned him
the FEDME award for the best
activity of the year
in extra-European alpinism.

The alpine style of the northeast edge of Huantsán was also not bad
completed Oriol
Baró and Marc Toralles
in the month of July. A Marc Toralles who returned to be protagonist a few weeks later
with Iker Madoz and Roger Cararach in
the repetition of Tambo, churros and friends en
the Jirishanca .

In Europe, Marc
Subirana and Miguel Molina
made a remarkable winter ascent to
Torre Trieste while Manu
Cordova, Jonatan Larrañaga and Javi Bueno
released A clever divo a view in Gavarnie . Within our borders, it is worth mentioning David
Palto 'Pelut' and Tato Esquirol
who performed a significant
winter repetition of Zunbeltz to Picu Urriellu .

Extreme Alps

The best activities in the Alps this year have been
distributed by several corners of the mountain range. In the Swiss part, Alex Huber, Dani Arnold and Thomas Senf
they opened the Nose switzerland on the face
North of the Cervino
at the middle of March; while Roger
Schaeli, Thomas Huber and Stephan Siegrist
performed the first repetition
of the mythical Metanoia from Jeff Lowe on the north face of the Eiger .

In the Italian part, Simon
Gietl
was agreed with Vittorio
Messini
in January to climb the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in less than 6
hours
. And a few weeks later, he performed with Michi Wohlleben the first
integral crossing in winter
of the three famous peaks of the same massif
of Dolomites .

In the French sector, perhaps the highlight was the
opening of Red devils to Aiguille
du Midi
on the part of Jeff
Mercier, David Autheman, Gérémy Rakowski and Lucien Boucansaud
in two
attempts during the month of May.

Patagonia, for the
brave

As has been said, this year Patagonia did not show its face
friendlier, far from it. Only the most courageous, hard climbers or
fortunate ones could get something out of a frustrating season for
Many. Among those handful of elected, they highlighted Iker and Eneko Pou with its opening in Needle
Guillaumet
. Also the Ragni di Lecco David Bacci, Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo della Bordella with the
first route on the east side of Cerro
Murallón
. Nor can we forget the Belgians Sean Villanueva, Siebe Vanhee and Nico Favresse ,
who managed to free The gift of Mwono in the Tower
Central del Paine
.

Who also excelled in Patagonia, although in his case
season, it was Markus Pucher who
He returned for his winter projects and was awarded the first
wintry solo of the Needle
Guillaumet
.

In this chapter it deserves a reminder Maximo Kausch who has completed a new stage of his exploratory-alpinistic project
Andes 6K having reached the top
of all
the seismiles of Argentina and Chile
which are added to those of Bolivia that already
had. He only has the last ones from Peru and the Chimborazo from Ecuador to
get on all the elevations over 6,000 meters of the Andes.

Alaska and the rest of North America

North of the American continent, Alaska is still a
essential pole of attraction for climbers eager for adventure. The
clearly demonstrated Clint
Helander and Jess Roskelley
with its impressive Gauntlet Ridge to Mt.
Huntington
. As well as Will
Sim and Greg Boswell
with the harsh openings of Bestiality to Bears
Tooth
and Shark fishing to Shark's Tooth . And Colin Haley who made the first
alone to Mt. Hunter
by North
butress
.

Beyond Alaska, Scottish Simon Richardson and German Micha
Rinn
chose the virgin face southwest of the Monarch
Mountain
of the Coast Mountains
Canadians to open there Game of Thrones (1,250 m, ED2, 6a). While the Polish Marek Raganowicz opted for the island
by Baffin
to open Mantra Mandala and Secret of silence .

Other destinations

The same Marek Raganowicz
had already been news three months earlier for another first, in that case the
first lonely wintry of Troll
Wall
(Norway). Also Denis
Urubko
made a not insignificant double this year, adding to his
opening on the Chapáyev the winter peak on the Khan Tengri . Finally, at this end of the year, Antarctica has been
multi-team playground, like the one led by Alex Honnold and Conrad Anker who signed a total of 7 first
Ascents and 13 summits in the Land
of Queen Maud
.

                

The training methodology

                                

 Cover of the manual Training for the new mountaineering. By Steve House. "Src =" http://static.desnivel.com/images/2017/09/22/training-for-the-new-alpinism_web.jpg "style =" width: 150px; height: 212px; border-width: 0px; border-style: solid; margin: 5px; float: left; "/> </p>
<h5>
</h5>
<p> Training for the new mountaineering </p>
<p> <em> by Steve House </em> </p>
<p> Almost 450 pages full of information about resistance and strength training methodology, planning and its application to nutrition, adaptation to altitude, without forgetting mental training or evaluation </p>
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Josh Levin is Climbing Youth Olympic Role Model


Josh Levin is only 23 years old, but he’s already interned at NASA, dealt with the pressures of being a TV star, become the USA’s most decorated junior climber of all-time and faced up to some monumental life decisions of his own.

“I did another internship, doing manufacturing design; and I got an amazing offer from them which I turned down to train for the Olympics,” Levin revealed.

“It’s really cool, I have opportunities to do stuff beyond the scope of climbing, which is awesome; but now is the time to pursue climbing as much as I can. It was a tough call – do I want to take this amazing job offer or pursue my Olympic dream?”

Levin’s parents, having watched their son win a record 19 youth national championship titles, resisted the urge to push the youngster towards the security of a career at one of the world’s leading companies, and instead threw their support right behind his Olympic aspirations.

In among his busy schedule, the Youth Olympic Games (YOG) have played an important role in the Californian’s journey to date.

The engineering graduate was part of the sport climbing team at the Nanjing 2014 YOG Sports Lab. His role was to show off the sport’s unique attributes and get as many visitors up on the wall as possible.

Continue reading this article here.



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