Panticosa hosts the II National Mountain Safety Congress


Monday, November 27, 2017 – Updated at 10:15 am

After the success of the 1st National Mountain Safety Congress, the
Spanish Association of Prevention and Safety in Mountain AEPYSEM
has decided
give continuity and convert the
Congress in a reference for those interested in the security of this field.

Unlike the previous one, this edition is not dedicated
exclusively to snow sports, but has been extended to all sports activities that are practiced in the mountains.

The Congress will be attended by professionals from the mountains who will present their
knowledge for a safe practice like Alberto Ayora Íñigo Ayllón, Manolo
Taibo, Rizos Amat and Cecilia Buil.

Another innovation with regard to events of this type, is that this Congress
wants to become a channel that they can use to express their ideas and
conclusions, and that, ultimately, an awareness of the importance of
to practice mountain sports without the occurrence of preventable accidents.

In this sense, the Congress has a contest in which
new ideas will be presented. The contestants will have fifteen minutes to
present your project to specialists
that will make up the jury. The winner will receive a nivology course in
the center A Lurte.

Another issue that will be discussed in this Congress held on
December 1, 2 and 3
is the promotion of the
development of studies and research
about the material, equipment, techniques, knowledge and fields in sports of
mountain.

Program

14: 00- Collection of accreditations
15: 00- Inauguration of the congress and balance of the previous congress
15: 30-16: 45 Marta Ferrer "Safe mountains campaign: what it is and who it is
directs. "
16: 50-18: 05 Teresa Sanclemente" Mountain nutrition, prevention "

Rest 15 minutes

18: 20-19: 25 Rocío Hurtado "Cartografía ates, nuevos
tools for planning on snowy terrain by snowthing and
alurte "
19: 30-20: 00 Police Unit of the Government of Aragon" Inspections in
subject of active tourism in ski slopes and ravines "
20: 00-20: 30 Presentations start up Safety Projects
20: 30-21: 00 Pyrenees wine offered by Grupo Barbadillo

9: 00-10: Íñigo Ayllón "Federative insurance, what and what?"
10: 05-11: 05 Zmat curls "Mountain security, hidden dangers"

Coffe Break 11: 05-11: 35

11: 35-12: 35 Alberto Ayora "Committee of security of the fedme:
goals and initiatives in progress "
12: 40-13: 40 Cecilia Buil" Security escalation on ice "

Rest meal 13: 40-15: 40

15: 40-16: 40 Manolo Taibo "Planning of activities in
mountain for collectivities "
16: 45-17: 45 David Abajo" Guardians, security is always in the
refuge "

Coffe Break 17: 45-18: 35

18: 35-19: 35 Fernando Fesportes "First aid in environments
away from montanaña "
19: 40- 20:10 Tribute to the pioneers of security
20: 10-20: 45 wine from the Pyrenees offered by Grupo Barbadillo. and raffle of material
collaborating companies

9: 00-10: 00 Content to be confirmed
10: 20-11: 20 Gerardo Sanz "Workshop AEMET: Products aemt for safety
in the mountains "

Coffe break 11: 35-12: 00

12: 00-13: 00 UME "UME rescue protocol in avalanches and
disappeared, the last rescuers "
13: 15-14: 15 UME Workshop
14: 15- 14:30 Conclusions, delivery of diplomas and farewell of the Congress
14:45 farewell meal, reservation to be formalized on Friday day 1 (price not
included in the registration of the congress, price approx € 18 / person)

                



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Watch Natalie Berry Boulder in Chamonix


Natalie Berry recently moved to Chamonix from the U.K. as the climber’s valley transitions into shoulder season.

In this short video, Berry talks about the move, takes a gondola to Plan de l’Aiguille and goes bouldering.

The post Watch Natalie Berry Boulder in Chamonix appeared first on Gripped Magazine.



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Awarded the best Spanish activities of 2017


Desnivel.com
– Friday, December 1, 2017 – Updated at 1:52 PM

We entered the last month of the year 2017 and it starts to be time
to make the annual balance. To begin with, the winners of
FEDME Awards 2017 granted by the High Level Activities Committee in
five categories: Ignacio Mulero in sport climbing and block, Javier Bueno
in ice climbing and drytooling, Sílvia Vidal in wall climbing, Guille Cuadrado in European mountaineering and Mª José Cardell in extra-European mountaineering.

]

These have been the five activities selected by the
jury to receive a total prize money of € 10,800 (a figure that
has reduced 10% in two years). Said jury has been formed this year by: Andrea
Cartas, Isidoro Rodríguez, Joseba Ugarte, Juanjo Cano, Juanjo Sansebastián,
Luis López Soriano, Pedro Rodríguez, Ramón Portilla, Sito Carcavilla, Tente
Lagunilla, Vicky Vega and Xabi Ayuso.

Mountaineering
Extra-European – Mª José Cardell

The Andalusian mountaineer Mª José Cardell has been awarded 3,000
€ prize for its opening of Shashka
Route
(TD / ED, 90º / M4, 2,271 m) to the peak Chapáyev (6,371 m) of the Cordillera del
Tien Shan in light alpine style, in roped with Denis Urubko . After acclimatizing
ascending the neighbor Khan Tengri (7.010 m), they made the ascent in a
attack that demanded two bivouacs during the climb and another one during the
drop, withstanding freezing temperatures and falling rocks.

The category of extra-European mountaineering has been the most
disputed, with a total of six candidatures. The activity of Mª José Cardell and
Denis Urubko has been imposed to the following five: first repetition of Tambo, churros and friends (7a, A2, M4,
95º, 1,000 m) in the Jirishanca (Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru) by Iker
Madoz, Marc Toralles and Roger Cararach
; first repetition and first in
alpine style of Pilar Este del Huantsan, by Oriol
Baró and Marc Toralles
; opening of a new road to a virgin peak of
Himalayas of Nepal, by Angel
Salamanca and Joao Garcia
; opening of the track Strong and lax (7a / +, 735 m) to the Lule Skat (Bisotun massif, Iran),
for Alberto Urtasun and Mikel Lázaro ; opening of Criminal mountaineering (85th, 6th, M5, 1,500 m) on the north wall of the
Langshisa Ri (6,427 m) in the Lantang Valley (Nepal Himalayas), by Chema and
Jorge Galve
.

European mountaineering – Guille
Square

The Catalan climber Guille Cuadradoha entered 2,000 €
of prize for its opening of the track Syv
Veggen (Seven Wall)
(450 m, 7a, ABO-) to Merralestinden of the islands
Lofoten
(Norway). a varied and spectacular way that starts with a fissure and
overcomes an impressive roof that climbed with Gerber Cucurell on June 4 in
16 hours of activity.

In this category, there were three other candidatures:
first female Spanish to the north face of the Eiger in winter by part of
Cati Lladó in cordate with Tomeu Rubí ; the first descent with skis of the
north wall of the Alcazaba, north corridor, with a maximum slope of 52º; and the
Winter climb of the Tournier spur of the north face of Les Droites,
Marc Toralles and Bru Busom .

Climbing on the wall –
Sílvia Vidal

The Catalan climber Sílvia
Vidal
will receive a prize of € 2,500 for its opening of One month (530 m, A4 / +, 6a) on the face
west of Xanadu in the Arrigetch Peaks (Alaska) . True to his style, he made the expedition
alone for 53 days, without outside help or communications.

Four other candidates were eligible for the prize in the category
of wall climbing: the opening of the track Bóreas
(8a, ABO +, 130 m) on the north side of the Punxa (Montserrat) by Guille
Square
; the second winter repetition of the route Piussi-Redaeli (750 m, 6c, A3) in the Torre Trieste (Dolomites) by Marc
Subirana and Miguel Molina
; opening and first ascent of Ass spray (7c +, 300 m) in the Tozal
Espelunga by Mikel Pérez de Larraya and Ander Zabalza ; and the release of Revelation (515 m, 7b +) in the Naranjo de
Bulnes for Jesús Ibarz and Pablo Ruíz .

Ice climbing –
Javier Bueno

The Aragonese Javier Bueno is awarded € 1,800 prize for
his trilogy of openings and escalations in ice and mixed of high difficulty.
Specifically, the release was noted in view of the track A ready divo and the opening of a connection to scale the part
superior of The breath of the devil (200
m, A3, 6a, WI5 +) in the Third Wall of Gavarnie in 17 hours of activity
uninterrupted, as well as the opening and release of the road The three boars (500 m, M9, WI4 +) in
the valley of Izas and the opening of Martina
(140 m, M11, WI4 +) in Fuenfría .

As usual, the category of ice climbing
is one of the least prolific in activity, and this year there were only two candidates
more: the opening of five new ice and mixed roads in northern Italy to
charge of Santi Padrós ; and the opening and chaining of Lúa (6th expo, M10, WI6 / +, 130 m) in Vallunga (Dolomites) by Luis
Penín and Daniel Robles
.

Sport climbing and
block – Ignacio Mulero

The Madrid climber Ignacio Mulero gets € 1,500 for
the first ascent of Territory
comanche
8c +, one of the toughest plates in the world, in La Pedriza .

In the category of sport climbing and block, other four
activities were candidates for the prize: the second female ascent of Solaris 8A + in Baltzola, the first
female of Atreyu sit 8A and the
repetition of Harrobi 8A in
Albarracín, by Itziar Zabala ; the chaining of Geminis 8b + in Rodellar by Marta Palou ; the first 8C + Spanish
with The indomitable in Tamajón, together
with the ascension of Pin and pon 8B al
flash and several other blocks of 8B + and 8C throughout the season,
Alberto Rocasolano ; and the repetition of Ali
Hulk extension
9a + in Rodellar a
charge of Jorge Díaz-Rullo .

                



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a system to evaluate the difficulty of the via ferratas


KNOW YOUR PROJECT WITH ACCURACY

        

Physical, psychological effort,
equipment and severity. These are the four variables of a
system proposal with which to know, in the most precise way
possible, the difficulties of a via ferrata.

        

Alberto González / Desnivel
– Friday, December 1, 2017 – Updated at 2:01 p.m.

                

                
                

 

                     Via ferrata "Cagate lorito". This is a sample of the most modern trends in sports ferratas. "/> </div>
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Via ferrata "Cagate lorito". This is a sample of the most modern trends in sports ferratas. (Luis Alfonso Sanz)
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'Mountain and life', fuel for happiness


After
of the publication of The
mountain can heal
,
Víctor Riverola presents a choral work where reality
mix with fiction, with the intention of transmitting a message of
hope, motivation and personal improvement.

Pati Blasco / Desnivel
– Friday, December 1, 2017 – Updated at 12:20 p.m.

«Make every moment worthwhile»
was one of the phrases chosen by the author to summarize what was
can be found inside Mountain and life .

That reality that time is not
important, only life is important is breathed in each chapter
of this suggestive book, which moves away from self-help texts
to delve into the interior of emotions, the engines, the
fuel … motivation and effort that moves us «without
motivation there is no summit or everything that comes after ». The mountain
and life talks about how the mountain has changed life to a lot
people
; how to run, climb, pedal, climb, descend … has helped
to many people who were experiencing difficulties. Either an illness or
a personal problem, the effort is the engine that moves them, the
mountain the place that always welcomes.

«Facing life is a great
adventure; for this reason, this book does not just talk about mountain and
life, but of adventures, of dreams, of joys and sorrows, of
humility and hope. "

On this occasion the author has told
with the collaboration of Jordi Corbella, José F. García Romo and with
eleven personal testimonies chosen for their high human content and
didactic. The different voices among which are Rosa
Fernández Rubio, Paula Fernández-Ochoa, Carlos Suárez or César
Pérez de Tudela, have become a source of motivation and
life beyond pain, doubt and suffering. His stories
they show us to mountain as a huge catalyst of emotions and the
motivation as the most powerful engine.

«I wonder why we do not take advantage
to the maximum, the few moments in which we have borrowed our
body to death. We should promote constant learning and
the search for knowledge I admire those who have the courage
enough to launch into existence, that they know how to take risks,
fit blows, knowing in advance that they will be exposed to
a society that ignores them. "

Mix reality and fiction is another of
the successes of The mountain and life this time the
experience has resulted in an entertaining book with a powerful
thread: the seventh season of a supposed series of
television based on different characters related to the world
of the adventure
in front of her Simon Kline a passionate man,
passionate, confused and lost that after a powerful crisis has to
seek help from psychologist Laura Marras. She will take us "from
trip "for the life of these intrepid protagonists. With this
nexus we find each real character that in most
of the cases they speak to us of personal experiences or of ideas that
arise from hard moments that have lived.

A large group of
professionals share their criteria and experience with the reader
professional

Conscious at all times of the
responsibility and the impact that ideas and
opinions on psychological processes in this work, the
authors decided to count on the collaboration of a large group of
professionals who share their criteria and experience with the reader
professional, giving the book a very high added value
special, because most of them practice mountain sports .

«As we get older and
we are leaving mountains behind, having attended numerous cycles
of birth and death, we acquire wisdom, knowledge … and
detachment. Keeping the body and mind trained helps us to have
stability, confronting us with greater determination
negative trends ».

The mountain and the
vida
is a book that will help you to relativize, to focus, to give you the
fair importance to each situation, with many real stories
with the insurance you can empathize to continue searching the mountain
that connection and lightness that we sometimes lose.

                

Mountain and relection:

                                

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<p> <em> by Víctor Riverola. </em> </p>
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The Valgrande-Pajares station will charge ski pass for mountain and cross-country skiers


Iñigo Ayllón / Desnivel
– Friday, December 1, 2017 – Updated at 10: 51h.

The station
skiing in Valgrande-Pajares has taken another step towards the
limitation of access to the natural environment
creating for this winter
a new modality of ski pass applicable to those who decide to practice
the ski mountaineering or crossing in its tracks . The measure, collected
in Decree 80/2017, approved on November 16, establishes
public prices related to the provision of services in the
cited station and, specifically, in relation to ski mountaineering
establishes prices for the day pass (€ 5) and for the ski pass
cruise season (€ 25)
. Nothing is said, however, of
who can go with snowshoes or with their mountain boots and
crampons.

In all the decree no other
mention to the mentioned activity with what they appear too many
unknowns that worry us
. From what time should we
get the lift? As long as we're going to use a stretch of
tracks? If we need to cross or cross part of the station
to perform activity outside of it? If the pass is a title of
transport, which allows us to use the means of ski lift, under
what criteria do I have to obtain a pass for a totally committed
different? What rights and obligations does this grant and impose on me?
acquisition of the pass? And to the station?

If we do not buy the pass, who can
Are you qualified to take sanctioning or coercive measures? Can
the station staff expelling a cross-country skier
the station for lacking that "ticket"? Is it applicable
this norm also to those who perform rackets or progress through that
ground with boots or crampons
? And for activities outside the era
wintry? Is access to the land or use of the land being charged?
snow?

Questions arise about legality
of the measure

To all the questions raised
previously the doubts that arise around the legality are added
of the measure. Under what concept is it posed the collection of a fee
for accessing the natural environment
? The Valgrande station is located
on public land (Montes de Brañillin), there is a concession
administrative procedure that allows private (non-exclusive) utility of
this mountain.

In practice, this assumes that a
private entity, the Ministry of Education and Culture of the
Principality of Asturias, can perform exclusively
certain activities and charge for ski lift services
(transport of passengers by cable), activity to which it adds other
of an accessory nature (parking, restoration, rental and sale of
material, stepped, marked and signposted tracks …).

If we make a comparison with the
urban area, a ski resort is like the terrace that, under
City Hall license, install a bar or restaurant. He
owner of that business (which would be the manager of the station
of skiing) can profit and use for its purposes those tables and
chairs (that would resemble ski lifts) that installs, and can
accompany them with decoration and comfort elements (step on
tracks, parking, catering services, …) for your customers.

However, this concession does not imply
have absolute control over that portion of the street, which follows
being public, and can not consider charging for going through that
terrace to the pedestrians that circulate on the street (users not
skiers from the natural environment). Similarly, doubts arise
to the capacity of the administration and its employees (trainers) to
force to acquire the pass or expel from the area ( remember,
public forest
) to those who have not purchased this ticket.

Immediate to the acquisition of the
cited ski pass, the skier acquires the status of consumer and user

In addition to all these questions
legal, we must not forget that, immediately after the acquisition of
cited ski pass, the skier acquires the status of consumer and user, and therefore becomes subject of rights and obligations
with which the law protects him
. In particular, article 8.a) of the Law
General for the Defense of Consumers and Users, Royal Decree
Legislative Decree 1/2007, of November 16, which says: "protection
against the risks that may affect your health or safety. " East
right becomes immediately an obligation for the
station, which must articulate means both to facilitate the
necessary information to the user of the susceptible risks of the
foreseeable use of this installation as to prevent
these risks do not materialize.

To the countless legal doubts already
expressed are joined by many others that have their origin in the reading of
the Constitution and the current social situation. We live in an era of
boom in access to the natural environment
data from the Higher Council of
Sports and the Spanish Federation of Mountain Sports and
Climbing talk about that more and more citizens are practicing
sport, tourism data corroborate the increase in tourism
active and the offer of material is increasingly numerous and accessible
sports.

However, sports practice
each time it is carried out in a more individual way and the
accidents
and rescues in the Spanish mountains. Article 43.3
of the Constitution imposes the duty to the public authorities of
encourage sports practice and the proper use of leisure.
We understand that this tax measure seriously undermines this
constitutional mandate.

We advocate for training actions and
informative You have to see the users of the natural environment (with
independence of the time of year or the materials they access)
the risks to which they are exposed. Providing effective information
athletes, tourists and users will promote the
awareness of those who perform a physical activity, and must serve
both for promotion and for prevention.

The example of other stations that have
created specific circuits for rackets or ski mountaineering, or
the agreements reached by the station managers and
mountain federations (a few days ago the Federation of Entities
Excursionists of Catalonia, or at the time the Aragonese Federation
of Mountaineering), they have to be the model in which to notice long before
to opt for the path of dubious prohibitions and limitations of
access.

Iñigo Ayllón has a Law Degree and has taken the Master's Degree in Mountain Sports Law. Among others, he is responsible for the Safety Committee of the Spanish Mountain Sports and Climbing Federation and also a member of the Scientific Advisory Council of the Mountains of this federation.

                

Prepare the ski season:

                                

Skiing with the feet

by Carlos Guerrero Castillo

Manual on alpine skiing that is an alternative to the meticulous manuals of technique that do not go beyond the pure mechanical description of the movements and that forget to explain how to teach and how to learn to ski.

                                



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Nina Caprez and To Bolt Or Not To Be 5.14


Climbing To Bolt Or Not To Be 5.14a in Smith Rock is like learning over 100 choreographed moves of a difficult dance.

Nina Caprez shares her story of working her way up all 40 metres of perfectly smooth, vertical wall.

“Six months after my illness I was standing at the bottom of this route, intimidated,” said Caprez. “I gathered all my courage and at first barely made my way to the top of this 40m route. In April 2017, I returned to Oregon and I felt ready.”

The 1986 route was the first 5.14a in North America and it focused a lot of attention on local tactics and attracted some of the world’s top climbers to Smith Rock.

The stiff 5.14 showed that there were benefits to top-down route development. French climber Jean Baptiste Tribout first sent it on Nov. 7 over three decades ago.

Alan Watts, one of America’s first big sport climbers said nearly all top climbers have tried it. The route has a number of hard moves and a number of factors must come together for it to go down.

The description on MountainProject.com reads like a move-by-move manual on how to climb it. It’s quoted below:

“The route begins tamely enough, with 3 bolts of fairly mellow 5.12- liebacking up a series of left-facing sidepulls. There is a difficult left-hand mono move below the first bolt, and an easy sinker mono for the right-hand at the 3rd bolt. The first difficult clip comes at the fourth bolt, just before the first crux, a 5.12 rightward traverse on sharp, purple crimps and un-inspiring foot divots. Opposing sidepulls and high-steps lead to a 1/4” polished crimp and the tenuous fifth clip.

“The real business comes in the next few bolts. For crux #2, gaston up and left to a series of 5.13- deadpoints to thin, sharp crimps and a core intensive clipping stance. Clip #6, chalk up and kiss your skin goodbye as you tickle the 1/8” crimps of the next 5.13 crux. Moving from 6 to 7 is the hardest bit of climbing, and it comes with a considerable pump, but good balance is the key to reaching the sickle-shaped sidepull and an extremely insecure clipping stance.

“A brief shake & chalk is possible here, before continuing thru crux #4 via sequential 5.12-ish footwork & hip shifting. Clip the 8th bolt with ease, then a series of super-high-steps and long lockoffs lead to the ninth bolt and the first real rest: a rounded 1” crimp with decent feet.

After a good shake, beta-intensive 5.13- crux #5 heads up and left on rounded crimps and long cranks, to a slopey pod rest at the tenth bolt. From here to the chains is considered 5.12d, but should not be underestimated, as there are many heart-breaking moves in the last 5 bolts.

“A few moderate moves lead to a large bear-hug flake at the 11th bolt, and one final shake before the last 5.12/13- crux. Delicate footwork and tiny crimps work up & left to the “crescent-shaped” hold, an awkward clip and one last hard crank to a series of horizontal crack pods.

“From here, things ease somewhat as the pump builds. Long sequential lockoffs between bigger holds with better feet keep things moving chain-ward, but don’t allow for any real “Thank-God” rest. After clipping 14, an awkward & balancey step left leads to an ascending leftward traverse, crossing delicately to large slopey pockets and a bomber clipping jug on the arete.”



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Watch Johnny Dawes Walk Up Five-Pitch 5.5


Johnny Dawes was one of the U.K.’s most cutting-edge climbers in the 1980s and 1990s. His bold gritstone routes are rarely repeated and were ahead of their time.

In this video, Dawes visits Lundy Island for the first time and wants to put his balance to the test.

He decided to climb the famous five-pitch Devil’s Slide, a 120-metre 5.5, which was first climbed in 1961 by Jim Logan and Keith Lawder. Dawes walks up, never using his hands on the massive slab.

Dawes is wearing the original EB rock climbign shoes from the 1970s. He is featured in the films Stone Monkey (1986), Best Forgotten Art (1994) and Hard Grit (1998). He published his autobiography Full of Myself in 2011.

Top Climbs by Dawes
– 1986 Gaia, Black Rocks E8 6c (first ascent)
– 1986 End of the Affair, Curbar Edge E8 6c (first ascent)
– 1986 The Quarryman, Twll Mawr E8 7a (first ascent)
– Smoked Salmon, Bamford Edge E8 7b (first ascent)
– Face Mecca, Clogwyn Du’r Arddu E9 6c (second ascent)
– Angel’s share, Black Rocks E8 7a (first ascent)
– 1990 The Very Big & the Very Small 8b+/8c slab (first ascent)



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Watch Meagan Martin and Brooke Raboutou’s Moon Comp


Top American boulderer Paul Robinson has organized a small competition between two climbers. In this episode, they climbers are Meagan Martin and Brooke Raboutou. He called the comp Moon Pig, it takes place on a Moon Board.

“The concept of Moon Pig is identical to that of a game of pig or horse in basketball,” said Robinson.

“Each game will be played on the Moon Board thus giving no unfair advantage and allows for games to be played around the world.”

Rules of Moon Pig: If your opponent makes a climbs a boulder problem (makes a shot), you have to also climb that same problem.

If you fall, you get a letter. If you send, your opponent now gets to go again and choose a different boulder problem. If your opponent falls, now it is your turn to pick a boulder problem.

Once one person spells the word PIG, they lose that round and the other person wins.



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David Smart’s ‘Cinema Vertigo’ Tells Fascinating Story


David Smart, editorial director of Gripped magazine, has a new novel called Cinema Vertigo, published by Imaginary Mountain Surveyors. Based in Chamonix and the French Alps during the Second World War and under occupation, it tells the fascinating tale of the struggles and drama during the filming of the iconic mountain film First on the Rope.

“In Cinema Vertigo David Smart returns to the rich crossroads where fascism and alpinism meet, terrain he explored so ably in his first novel, Above the Reich,” said David Stevenson, author of Warnings Against Myself and the award-winning Letters from Chamonix.

“This time he imagines the rigours of alpine filmmaking as conducted in occupied France during the war. If you’re unfamiliar with European bergfilme of the early twentieth century, think Casablanca but set in the Aiguilles above Chamonix. Smart is such a fine storyteller the amount of pure research he must have done feels natural, almost invisible. Every thread of this story, and there are many, rings true.”

Cinema Vertigo is about “a once-proud country shrinking under occupation – a washed-up director scraping for one final chance – armed partisans retreating to the high mountains as a last refuge – and a singular movie script with an unheard-of restriction: it must be shot on location in fabled Chamonix and the glaciers of the Alps.

“Far from German-controlled Paris, the cosmopolitan actors and film crew disembark into the hard hands of the mountain guides and begin filming a story that will challenge them to see the beauty and power of nature and the simple grit and strength of the mountain people and give them – and France herself – a chance at redemption against their oppressors.”

David Smart has written two novels, Above the Reich and Cinema Vertigo. He is also the author of a climbing memoir, A Youth Wasted Climbing.

He co-authored the guidebook, Classic Rock Climbs of Canada (2018) with Brandon Pullan and five other guidebooks to climbing in Quebec and Ontario. He is also the editorial director of Gripped Publishing. He lives in Toronto.

Chic Scott, author of Pushing the Limits, and David Smart, share stories at Cafe Books in Canmore.



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