Nepal Bans Solo, Blind and Double Amputee Climbers

If you were hoping to bag a solo speed record up Mount Everest in 2018 from Nepal, you’ll have to change your plans.

BBC News has reported that Nepalese authorities have banned solo climbers from attempting any mountain in Nepal.

Ueli Steck on April 24 in the Himalayas prepares himself for solo of Mount Everest.

They are also prohibiting double amputee and blind climbers from heading up its mountains.

The changes have been introduced to hopefully reduce death toll numbers on Mount Everest.

In the spring, Min Bahadur Sherchan, a former British Gurkha soldier and Nepalese climber, died at 85 years at base camp during a solo attempt.

A few days later, Ueli Steck died on Nuptse during a solo ascent in preparation of a Mount Everest speed solo.

All foreign climbers must now have a guide when attempting peaks around Mount Everest.

“This new rule is absolute nonsense,” saidHari Budha Magar, 38, a veteran who lost both his legs in combat in Afghanistan and said he wanted to fulfill his childhood dream of summiting Mount Everest in 2018.

“If I need to go to court, I will,” he said.

He posted the following note on his Facebook page:

I have given six interviews tonight, It’s 1:30 a.m. in Jomsom, Nepal and this is what I said to the media.

The rules of banning disable people to climb mountains is unfair. This rule is discrimination against disable people and against the human rights.

The Nepal government should encourage disable people to come out of their comfort zone, explore themselves and reach their maximum potential But not banning them from doing things which discourages us. We disable people are also humans. We may just look different and do the things differently but we have human heart and mind.

I hold World Record on First Double Amputee Above Knee to climb over 6000m which was Mera Peak 6476m. Has anybody believed that? No, the most of you didn’t believe me that I could climb but I did it. Now, a lots of you believe me that I can climb the Mt Everest. I have been training to climb Mt Everest since 18 months. I trained in Gosainkunda in Nepal, Ben Nevis in Scotland, Mont Blanc in France, Mera Peak and currently I am training on Thorung La Pass in Muktinath area in Nepal.

I also hold the world record of one of the first amputee to kayak around Isle of Wight and first disable person to ski in Nepal. I am here to make Nepal and Nepali proud and make good publicity of Nepal around the world. It’s same that Nepal is banning me for doing such a good things for Nepal. I know I can give so much to Nepal.

These all things I am doing, this is not just for me and disable people, it’s for people who want to achieve their dreams. Life is all about adaptation whether physical, mental, different situation or time. If you can adapt your life, you can achieve your dream. Nothing is impossible.

Why I want to climb Mount Everest?
1. Inspire and encourage the people around the world never give up and follow their dreams, Nothing is Impossible.
2. Help disable people in Nepal and around the world by inspiring, motivating, encouraging and empowering.
3. Helping my fellow veterans and their families who sacrificed for our freedom.

My expedition is not just me climbing, It’s also about;
4. Finding better safety and rescue system on the mountain which I have already sponsored from Sweden.
5. Helping science and technology to research, develop and invent future prosthetic legs.
6. Giving companies to showcase their products on the top of the world.

I am confident that I will be climbing but I need your help and support to inspire others.

More than 200 people have died on Everest since 1920, with the vast majority taking place since 1980. more than 20 per cent are killed by exposure or acute mountain sickness.

According to the Himalaya Database in 2015, by far the highest number of people who died did so because of avalanches (29 [er cent), with falls being the next largest cause of death (23 per cent).

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Adam Ondra tries Rainman 9b, the toughest British road

In Malham Cove


Steve McClure narrates the attempt of first repetition that the Czech made of his most demanding way, in the Malham Cove.


– Sunday, December 31, 2017 – Updated at 12: 30h.




                     Adam Ondra in Rainman 9b, the hardest British road.

Adam Ondra in Rainman 9b, the hardest British road.



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Patagonia Season Starts With New and Rare Routes

The 2017/18 Patagonia summer season has started with a new route by American Austin Siadak and Brit James Moneypenny.

The weather in El Chalten hasn’t been optimal for heading out into the mountains, but that hasn’t stopped some Patagonia veterans from getting after it.

Siadak wrote on Instagram: “A couple miles south of the high grade granite of the Chaltén massif, the dark metamorphosed stone of Cerro Solo erupts from the hills above town, sitting in plain view of every visiting tourist and climber alike. But despite its proximity, Solo is often overlooked…”

Siadak figured there would be mixed potential on the south face and got Monepenny to go for the five-hour approach.

“In a 20-hour round-trip mission from town we had a great time establishing a new route, encountering perfect néve, thin ice, steep snow pillars and thought-provoking mixed terrain along the way,” said Siadak.

“It was classic climbing that would likely be oft-repeated if it were anywhere in the States, and even had a sweet sting-in-the-tail crux pitch in the last 20 metres before the summit ridge. We both got scared and we both smiled a lot. Super fun.”

Their new 500-metre climb is The French Connection and goes at M6 A0. This is the third new route Siadak has climbed on Cerro Solo in the past year.

“While certainly not the kind of mountain or climbing for which this area is famous, I do think that Cerro Solo offers great snow and mixed climbing during periods of bad weather or very short weather windows.”

Earlier in the month, Canadian Quentin Lindfield Roberts and Finn Juho Knuuttila climbed the Cara Este route on Cerro Piergiorgio for the second ascent.

They left Niponino at 5 a.m. and reached the summit at 4 p.m., and returned to Niponino by 10:30 p.m. They freed the first aid pitch at M6R/X and the second at M6 (first freed in 2010 by Will Sim and Jon Griffith).

At the start of December, Lindfield Roberts Canadian Chris Willie climbed Los Tiempos Perdidos into the Directa Huarpe to within a pitch and a half of the summit of Cerro Torre.

Willie was hit in the head on the descent and lost consciences, but woke up shortly after. The season has just begun, hopefully weather improves and more big climbs are done.

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Comp Crusher Janja Garnbret Ticks First 5.14d

Slovenian competition crusher Janja Garnbret climbed her first 5.14d with a send of Seleccio Natural at Santa Linya in Spain. It took her two days.

At 18, she has racked up an impressive list of competition wins, including 5.13 onsights on the rock.

In the the fall, she was projecting Realization/Biographie 5.15a in Ceuse and nearly sent before having to leave.

In 2015, she placed fourth in the overall lead climbing standings in her first year in the IFSC.

In the same year, she placed first in La Sportiva Legends Only, ahead of Shauna Coxsey, Mélissa Le Nevé, Juliane Wurm and Anna Stöhr.

In 2016, she won most of the IFSC competitions in which she participated. She won the World Cup in Lead and Combined disciplines, the World Championships in Lead and the World Youth Championships in Lead and Bouldering.

Garnbret also won the German top-class Adidas Rockstars invitational bouldering contest, defeating Jessica Pilz in the super final.

In 2017, she won the World Cup in Lead and Combined disciplines, the Combined title in the European Championships, and she ranked second in Bouldering both at the World Cup and European Championships.

It looks like 2018 will bring big sends and more podiums for Garnbret.

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"I would not like to solve the mystery of Irvine and Mallory"


Ion Berasategi is a man of science
surrounded by numbers. A few years ago he set out to test if he knew
write something with substance, and it seems that yes: "Here I am, with the
Unleveled Literature Award in hand, "he told us in the
presentation of Everest. Because it's there ,
the winning novel of this edition.

Saturday, December 30, 2017 – Updated at 1:30 p.m.

Ion Berasategi (1969) is a climber
in rock that in his youth he used ice axes and crampons. This
facet and some personal journey have been the points of support for
write Everest. Because it's there the winning novel of
Prize Desnivel de Literatura 2017 .

The book links two stories: that of
two current climbers trying to crown Everest and that of
George Mallory and Andrew Irvine although these are never mentioned
Name (s. "If I put the same ones there are those who could think that what
the rest was true, too. I changed everything and I invented the
stories, "he says in reference to the great mystery surrounding these
two pioneers since they disappeared on Everest in 1924.
Did they go up or not? "I give a vision of what happened more
dictated by the heart than by the brain, "he says.

The mystery is one of the pillars of
the novel …

The origin of the book is in the
mystery surrounding Everest, if Mallory and Irvine were the
first to conquer the top. The story came together with a trip
I did to Tibet, and from there I thought that why not
combine a version of me, inspired by that of the British in
1924, with another more modern one. I did not want to make a copy and paste,
that I took some details and rewrote the rest.

To solve the mystery?
I would not like to solve it. In the book
I give a version of what might have happened, but I would not like it to be
discover the mystery
this is more interesting than reality.
Deciphering it would be like putting out a candle that is lit from the
same day that the two climbers disappeared, it would be a disappointment,
I prefer that it is not known.

"The protagonists are two
friends who raise the goal of Everest without pressure "

Then there's the other story, the one about
the current climbers. Who are they?

They are two modern mountaineers who decide
do the north of Everest through the Horbein corridor, I tried to
they were very prepared and were able to do that activity. In
At any given time they criticize the evictions, but they give themselves
account that they have the sponsorship of the same companies that there are
behind. They raise it to him and they say that they will have to look for a
solution, but they do not give it much thought either because they do not see it easy.

This contrasts with the situation in
1920, when the British Empire sought prominence. There was
lost the races to the two poles and the third that was left was the
that's why he threw all the meat in the spit and put the resources
what was needed In contrast, those of the current expedition are two
friends who raise the goal of Everest without pressure, because
It has been raised a thousand people before them.

How long has it taken you
write the novel?

About a year, but putting me
after working, doing some sport and having dinner. I wrote
between ten and twelve o'clock at night. What has cost me most has
been recover inspiration when he was leaving. There are nights when
you write two folios and you feel the king, and others in which you write
two lines and you go to bed thinking about what you have opened the

"Women are demonstrating
that can do things as much or better than men "

Do you have the scheme in your head?
before writing?

Ideas come up as you write
I write, many did not have them planned from the beginning, like
theme of love
that arises between one of the protagonists and a girl
Tibetan It seems love at first sight without a future but then …

Do you rewrite a lot?
I think about it a lot but never
you finish being happy If I now read the book again
I would change things. I tried to make the story not very technical for
that not only interested people very expert in mountaineering.

What is your favorite character?
The dog. It gives a very nice touch to
history, and also the two girls, especially the one in
old expedition. Nobody bets on her, everyone believes that
second day he will ask for help to get to his father's house, and
It turns out that no. If they had let her try Everest who knows
how far I could have come Women are demonstrating
that can do things as much or better than men today,
I have no doubts, that's why I decided that we had to give prominence to
in the two stories of the novel.

How did you choose the title?
The title is complicated. People,
When he reads, he thinks it's a question. Why is there? Y
is an answer: because is there. It is the answer that
Mallory gave an American
in 1923 when he went to promote the
expedition the following year. He asked why he wanted
ascend that mountain and Mallory's response, dry, was: because
is there.


Prize Desnivel de Literatura 2017:


 Book cover: Everest. Because it is there. Desnivel Award 2017. "src =" "style =" width: 150px; height: 223px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; margin: 5px; float: left; "/> </p>
<p> Everest. Because it's there </p>
<p> <em> Prize Desnivel 2017 </em> </p>
<p> Everest. Because it is there, it gathers the best ingredients of all those books that inspired different generations of "conquerors of the useless". A story in parallel, which gains interest and tension as it progresses; where the experiences of those pioneers of 1924 are intertwined, with those of two modern climbers. In a narrative with a large dose of humor and irony. </p>
<p>                                </p></div>
<p><br />
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Mythologic is a Mega Okanagan Ice Route

The team of Lyle Knight and Marc Piche bagged the first ascent of Mythologic, a long difficult ice route on the Enderby Cliffs in the North Okanagan, in 2011.

Knight described Mythologic WI6 140 m as “a skinny version of Nemesis in the Rockies” with “consistently hard” climbing for the entire route.

Quentin Lindfield Roberts heading up Mythologic Photo Lyle Knight in January 2017

New climbs of this length and difficulty are rare and finding such an unclimbed line in the Okanagan Valley, a region not known for difficult ice climbing, makes Mythologic even more special.

The Okanagan Valley’s climate is not conducive for ice climbing, it is warm and damp, so when Mythologic does freeze, climbers have to rush before it melts.

As Paul Taylor reported in 2014 after an ascent: “The ice was challenging, but climbable and protectable after lots of cleaning. Being at very low elevation  it wont last long. The overhead hazard from various daggers would be a real concern in warm weather.

“We thought it was an amazing climb and an excellent choice when the Rockies are in deep freeze. ”

His partner on the day of the climb was Jasmin Fauteux, who said: “From far, it looks like the roofs have filled in to form steep pillars but instead, free standing pillars have now formed from the far edge of these roofs and you climb well behind them.

“First time I had ever seen a free-standing form off another ice climb.”

The mega ice route hasn’t formed for the 2017/18 ice season yet, but with cold temps in the forecast keep you eyes on the condition forums here.

For approach information on Google Earth (need to download) visit here.

Mythologic 2014 Photo Lyle Knight

Mythologic 2014 Photo Lyle Knight

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Polish Heading to K2 for First Winter Ascent Attempt

K2 is the only 8,000-metre peak without a winter ascent, but a team of 10 Polish climbers is hoping to change that. It is the second highest mountain in world at 8,611 metres and sits on the Pakistan-China border.

The climbers received a million Polish zlotys ($340,000 CAD) from Ministry of Sport and Tourism to support their trip.


The trip leader will be 67-year-old Krzysztof Wielicki, one of the top high-altitude climbers from the 1980s.

Janusz Goląb, 50, will assist in planning and tactics. He has years of experience in the Himalayas, including a Gasherbum I ascent with Adam Bielecki.

Artur Małek, who made the first winter ascent of Broad Peak, will be on the expedition. Other members include Marcin Kaczkan (on K2 in the winter of 2002/03 to reach the height of 7,600 meters / stood atop K2 and Nanga Parbat in the summer) and Marek Chmielarski (summer cclimb of Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak).

All-round top climber Denis Urubko will be making the trip. He has climbed two 8,000-metre peaks in winter: Makalu in 2009 with Simone Moro and Gasherbrum II in 2011 with Cory Richards and Moro.

Other team members include Rafał Fronia (Lhotse and Gasherbrum II), Piotr Tomala (Broad Peak and Cho Oyu), Dariusz Załuski (filmmaker / climbed five 8,000-metre peaks), Maciej Bedrejczuk, Piotr Snopczyński and doctor Krzysztof Wranicz.

Over 30 expeditions attempted Nanga Parbat in winter before Pakistani Muhammad Ali, Basque Alex Txikon and Italian Simone Moro reached the top in 2016 winter.

There have only been three serious attempts on K2 in winter, once by Russians and twice by Polish. It takes a week to reach the mountain in winter.

During most winter seasons, there are only about 10 days of good climbing weather. “It was hell. The conditions were so difficult that at one point I simply did not have the heart to send out another group on the route,” said Andrzej Zawada.

Even during the summer, ascents are rare. No one reached the top during 2015 and 2016. “I climbed K2 from all sides and everywhere the wind blows the same – there is no difference,” said Wielicki.

In the winter, the winds in the Karakorum will blow at about 40 km/hour harder than south in the Himalayas. Temperatures can hit minus 60 C. The Polish team’s chance of success will depend on conditions and wind.

“You look at this mountain and you know you have not just to enter it, you have to climb up and up to it,” said Bielecki.

“We’ll decide when we look at the mountain and check the weather conditions on it,” says Gołąb about what route they will take.

“I am very cautious when they ask me about the chance for success,” said Wielicki.

History of Winter Attempts on K2
1980 Reconnaissance: Pol Andrzej Zawada and Canadian-resident Polish national Jaques Olek
1987/88 Attempt: 13 Poles, 7 Canadians and 4 Brits / made to Camp 3
2002/03 Attempt: 14 climbers from Poland, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Georgia / made Camp 4
2011/12 Attempt: 9 climbers from Russia / made Camp 2
2014/15 Near Attempt: Denis Urubko and team lost permit

Denis Urubko’s 2014/15 planned route

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Where to Check Canadian Ice and Avalanche Conditions

Ice is forming all over Canada and it won’t be long until everyone who loves playing outside in the cold will have their chance.

Below is a list of places to check ice and avalanche conditions across Canada. Some of the Facebook groups are closed and you will have to ask to join.

Western Canada Avalanche Conditions
West Coast Ice on Facebook
Rockies Ice on Facebook
Rockies Ice Conditions from Gravsports-ice
Ontario Ice Conditions Forum on Facebook
Northern Ontario Ice Conditions from ACC
Ontario Ice Conditions from Andriy Kolos
Quebec Ice Conditions Forum on Escalade 
Ice Conditions Eastern Canada on NEIce

Cool capture by @timbanfield of "Steve on Going to the Sun Highway in the Ghost." #iceclimbing #grippedmagazine #climbing #rockies

A photo posted by Gripped Magazine (@grippedmagazine) on Nov 18, 2016 at 10:26am PST

The post Where to Check Canadian Ice and Avalanche Conditions appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

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Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson Design Climbing Shoes

What does it take to design the best climbing shoe on the market? Daniel Woods and I have been working hard with one of the best shoe manufacturers in the industry, Evolv, to make this a reality.

We all know that the shoes we climb in every single day are great and all, but there is something that we would all change.

Paul Robinson and Woods have been working with Evolv for the past year on new ideas.

“We flew out to California to test out some new and old shoes with the guys over at Evolv to see what it will take to make the greatest shoe the industry has ever seen,” said Robinson.

“We are about eight months away from announcing our pro-model shoe that we hope will be the ultimate shoe for hard rock climbing.”

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