Watch Most Epic BASE Jump Ever

Watch Frédéric Fugen and Vincent Reffet wingsuit from Jungfrau in the Swiss Alps and land in a moving plane.

The two experienced flyers jumped from 4,062 metres in the Bernese Alps, a popular area for climbers and tourists, after months of training.

In the video, they coast along until a Pilatus Porter single-engine aircraft, piloted by Phil Bouvier and Yves Rossy appear with an open door.

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"Climbing is a luxury, we should not treat it as something so important"

Darío Rodríguez / Desnivel
– Thursday, November 30, 2017 – Updated at 4:08 p.m.

Despite his youth (27), the
mountaineering curriculum of Hayden Kennedy was solid and had two
important moment. He got a Piolet d'Or in 2013 after
open a new route in the Ogre (7,285 m) with Kyle Dempster. He repeated
award at the 2016 ceremony, this time for opening the Light route
before wisdom
(1,200 m, 5.11, WI6, M6, A2) on the east side of the Hill
Kishtwar with Marko Prezelj, Urban Novak and Manu Pellissier.

When they gave him his second Piolet
d'Or we met him in France and we asked him about his achievements and
goals. Hayden, a little friend of the cameras, also told us about the
controversy of Cerro Torre that splashed him with force when he eliminated
the burrs of Maestri that were in the Compressor Way.

Last October committed suicide
day after his partner died
in an avalanche when both
They were skiing in the Imp Peak of the Madison mountain range (Montana, USA).
With this interview we want to remember your love for the mountain and the
good sense with which he tried to channel his passion.

What style of climbing do you prefer?
I like all types of climbing,
everyone has fun, the variety is interesting, sports
a season to raise your level and then go to the mountains. Me
it seems a good dynamic because I like the change, the different ones
styles keep me motivated

Do you work for goals?
I adapt well to everything, I'm not very
follow plans or pursue goals like crazy. I will
climb because I like it and, if I feel like doing sports, because
I make. If not, I do something else. I have a job, so that too
influences my routine, there are seasons in which I work a lot and
I climb less.

"If only I were a climber,
I would have so much passion "

Would you like to be a climber

I have some help, but I like it
Do other things besides climbing. If only I were a climber,
I would have so much passion Pausing is good, I like to work and
Explore other facets of life. Climbing is just a very part
small, if you do not open up, you are very short-sighted.

Where do you live?
In a van. I like the style of
life, goes well with my way of being and also is cheaper.

What is it like to be Michael's son?

I do not think of him as a character, he is
just my father, I can not see it with different eyes. Climbing does not
it was a decisive issue in my education
until later, when I was more
higher. As a child, my mother or father would take me camping or where
out as mere fun, not to climb.

Was it he who taught you to

Yes, of course. We did sport climbing,
classic, walls, ice, ski …

What was your project more

I do not know if important is the
proper word. I have made certain escalations, at certain times,
that have affected me differently … I do not know what to say! I do not
I really like this question. These are projects that are already done, to the
shit, they left, it's the past. If you think too much about them
you've just lost the sense of things . It's over, it was moments
that we enjoy but live in the past is stupid. Must
Live the present.

"I think social networks are a
stupidity "

You travel often.
I like traveling a lot, it's very cool
because it opens your mind. You see different culture, different people,
his way of life Traveling is a big part of who I am and has
allowed me to realize how fortunate we are many of
us, internalize that we are special … well, not special,
fortunate to be in our situation. Climbing is a luxury, not
we should treat it as something superimportant because it is not, it has
more to do with being a good person . When you travel and see poverty
You can downplay climbing.

Which countries do you like to visit?
I really like Mexico, it's a great
Place for great adventures, great food and nice people. As well
Nepal, India and Pakistan have seemed incredible to me. From Spain
I had heard many things and when I went I lived them all. It is a site
fantastic, for the culture and for the climbing.

The mountain culture of the USA
looks like the European?

It depends. In Slovenia, for example, the
mountaineering culture is very rooted and mountaineering is a part of
the national inheritance They have a system that has been built on
Mountaineering for many years. In the United States, on the other hand,
There is so much of this. Climbing is becoming more popular, but it is not
Majority trend How to explain? I get the feeling that
the American way is lighter … I do not know if I explain myself, less
armed, because we do not have a structure for mountaineering. Although
scale, I think there are a lot of people in the United States who do not know the
history behind, they have no idea who did what in
60, 70 or 80.

What do you think of the networks

I think they are crap and a
stupidity. I am not fascinated by climbing profiles nor are
general, I get the feeling that people are losing the
face-to-face connection, the habit of having a coffee or a
beer and enjoy without phones or cameras. The need for
Telling the world what you do creates false images of us
same. Social networks seem a strange thing to me, but it's in
my hands decide: I do not have and I am satisfied, just like
They use them and enjoy them. You can only judge yourself . If to the
others like them, good for them.

"I understand
better the opposing positions on Cerro Torre "

How do you feel about the
Controversy of Cerro Torre?

Similar to how I felt in 2012
Although things have changed enough for me since then. The
Cerro Torre has grown in me
sometimes it takes time to process
experiences like this. I feel similar to then but I think that
now I can understand better why we did it and also understand
better the opposite positions.

Would you remove the burins from

Yes, without a doubt, I stand firm with the
position. It was a spontaneous decision, but sometimes they are the best
taken. I would not change anything, although I know it's the typical situation
that generates a lot of debate and that raises passions. Sometimes people
they let emotions get over them, I think that was the case in both
sides of the story. I have a feeling that people are
climbing a lot in Patagonia lately, in Cerro Torre in
particular, both on the west side and on the southeast edge. That's me
It looks cool, see people climb and enjoy the routes.

The Cerro Torre was an ascension
that changed your life.

That's a statement too
rotunda. It is true that affected my life, but as much as to say
who changed it
… I would not go that far.

But did it affect you?
Yes, it was hard to know that there were many
people angry about something he had done, and not just against
the action itself, but was extended to me as a person . This was
the difficult, I had never faced something like that.

"I'm not sure about the convenience of climbing
something so relevant "

What do you think about the history of

We can talk non-stop about all this,
but it's an old story, I do not know why people ask me
so much. There is not much more to contribute. What can I add? In
In any case, it would not matter what he said. He did what he did,
we the same and life goes on. People can keep poking and
spin it as much as you want, but things are not going to change.

What do you think of the Piolet d'Or?
It generates inner conflict. For
side, there's no reason why you do not like them because you're in France
eating good food and drinking wine, what can you complain about? Do not
It's the third world, so it's ultimately fun.
But I'm not sure about the convenience of climbing
something so relevant. I feel insecure in front of the cameras with
people who ask me things like "How important is your
project? "or" How do you feel? "That is perhaps the
reason that makes me have certain reservations with the Piolet d'Or.


Of the mountain and love:


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Already in bookstores' Everest. Because it is there ', Prize Desnivel de Literatura 2017



The winning novel
of the Literature Fall Award 2017 is already on the street. Everest.
Because it's there
by Ion Berasategi ,
historical recreation and pure fiction to get, in words
of the jury, "a narration with great doses of humor and irony".


Thursday, November 30, 2017 – Updated at 5:45 pm




                     Book cover: Everest. Because it is there. Desnivel Award 2017.

Book cover: Everest. Because it is there. Desnivel 2017 Award. (Desnivel Ediciones)



Did they manage Mallory and Irvine to be the
first to conquer Everest in 1924? The question sneaks into the
novel Everest. Because it's there written by Ion Berasategi and
winner of this year's Literature Disparity Award.

The plot moves around the
highest mountain in the world, mix past and present and hide one
of the most emblematic mysteries in the history of mountaineering
As one of the members of the jury said, Juanjo San Sebastián:
"Everest. Because it's there, it gathers the best ingredients of all
those books that inspired various generations of
" conquerors of the useless ".

This is his plot:

Trying to preserve the soul and the
spirit of the expedition of Mallory and Irvine, the novel proposes
a personal version of the vicissitudes that those
bold men
who, seeking glory, faced what
unknown. In parallel, nine decades later, two young people
mountaineers leave for Tibet with the north face of Everest as

Your expedition, pure alpine style,
nothing has to do with the odyssey that those
Intrepid British pioneers. Despite being separated by so many
years, both expeditions converge at a point that could join them
forever in the annals of mountaineering

The novel is already on the street. If you
Like, if you have questions or if you want to spend an afternoon
literary, marked on December 19 in red on the calendar . That
day we will celebrate the party of presentation of the novel in the
Library Slope.

About the author

Ion Berasategi (Guipúzcoa 1969) Compulsive traveler, has made trekkings through the most important mountain ranges in the world (Himalayas, Karakoram, Alps, Andes, Pyrenees, Atlas, Carpathians …). In 2010 he began to make his first steps as a writer and in 2014 he won the "VI Mikel Essery Travel Stories Competition" with A diamond in the desert . Writing is fun because it makes you think, it pushes you to read, forces you to imagine and helps you discover. The fuel that provokes his inspiration squeezes him out of the experiences he experiences on his trips.


Prize Desnivel de Literatura 2017:


 Book cover: Everest. Because it is there. Desnivel Award 2017. "src =" "style =" width: 150px; height: 223px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; margin: 5px; float: left;

Everest. Because it's there

Prize Desnivel 2017

Everest. Because it is there, it gathers the best ingredients of all those books that inspired different generations of "conquerors of the useless". A story in parallel, which gains interest and tension as it progresses; where the experiences of those pioneers of 1924 are intertwined, with those of two modern climbers. In a narrative with great doses of humor and irony.


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"The best dreams, when they are fulfilled, open the doors to new ones"

Thursday, November 30, 2017 – Updated at 1:18 pm

It all started with a photograph of the
Matterhorn that hung from the childhood room of Kilian Jornet,
but Summits of My Life are many things: not only summits like
Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, the Elbrus, the Denali, the Aconcagua and the
. They are 5 years of incredible challenges but also of friendship,
of learning, sadness and respect for nature. The athlete
Ceretano closed the project with a double ascent to Everest in May
of 2017.

Taking advantage of the presentation of the new
book Summits of My Life: dreams and challenges in the mountains ,
Kilian has taken stock of these five years that have led him to
Discover the peaks of your life. Edited by Ara Llibres in Catalan and
Spanish, includes texts written in the first person by Kilian,
photographs and infographics.

"I chose eight summits that made me one
special illusion "

How is Summits of My Life born?
It all starts with a picture of the Matterhorn
that presided over the room of my childhood. In my dreams I imagined
that one day it would rise. In 2011, after a very long trail season
good, I felt depressed. I felt I was losing
opportunities to meet and do different things that I
allow me to open in a new way. One day, when returning from
to train, appeared the photo of the Matterhorn. I had had the luck of
meet people like Marino Giacometti, father of skyrunning, who
I had made ascents to mythical peaks with very light material. He
he had guided runners like Fabio Meraldi, Pep Oller, Jean
Pelliser or Bruno Brunod to set speed records when climbing and
get off the Mont Blanc, the Aconcagua, the Matterhorn … If one made me
special illusion overcome, and also I was afraid, was the
Matterhorn, established by Bruno. My hands were sweating and my heart
it was pounding and I realized that it was time to start
Summits of My Life

The Cross of Mont Blanc, the
Innominata, Mont Blanc, Matterhorn, Elbrus, Denali,
Aconcagua Why these eight challenges?

I chose eight summits that made me one
special illusion: for the sporting challenge, for the history, for the
beauty of the mountain, because of the difficulties you would encounter or
the learning that would bring me. I knew that on the mountain what
They sell are the records but, also, what remains of all this
is the memory of how we have done . That's why I wrote a letter of
values ​​where it established the principles that should govern the
project: to claim the 'how' and not so much the 'what'.

Light, silent, with
responsibility, in a purist and minimalist way. How do you understand
to discover the mountain?

I think we have to learn to live
with less, with what we need to be more human
possible, the maximum of adapted to the environment, to nature. To me
like to go to the mountain without intermediaries, without assistance, without aid
externally, with humility, without wanting to be superior to her. Our
strength are the feet, the body, the legs and the mind. The mountain
it is sincere, it is far from hypocrisy
. No hand can
help us when we are in danger and neither is there anyone who
congratulate We are responsible for all our actions, whether
they go well as bad.

"When I arrived at the advanced base camp I burst with emotion: two Everest in a week!"

On May 21, 2017 you arrive at the
Top of Everest What did you feel when you stepped on it for the first time?

I would not know how to say it: I did not feel a
very strong emotion at that moment; Maybe fatigue prevented me
and the brain worked by saving as much energy as possible. Yes,
I was happy because I did not have to go up anymore, but I just thought
where it played down quickly.

Why did you decide to make a
second Everest?

Even after making the summit, I
there was a bitter taste for not being able to climb in the best
terms. I knew there would be a good weather window between
27 and on May 28. I crossed a look with Seb and said that the
we would take advantage

The feeling, when finished, was it
different from the first?

When you reach the advanced base camp,
So yes, I burst with emotion: two Everest in a week!
I thought about everything we had done in just one month and in the way
to get it: we climb those mountains like when we're in
house, in the Alps. And this opens up new perspectives for the future,
a whole new world of possibilities.

What do you do about these five
years of the Summits of My Life project?

It has been five years of learning that
they have allowed me to discover spectacular places in the world and,
them, my insignificance
. Propose increasingly demanding challenges
has forced me to learn new techniques, to spend more hours in
mountains, to gain experience and knowledge and, with my colleagues,
Absorb everything you have given me. They have also represented a change
in the way I live the mountain.

And now, what?
I used to think it was sad when
dreams came true, that you were left empty, but, in this
case, it has not been like that. The best dreams, when they are fulfilled, will
they open the doors to new dreams that you could not have imagined before.

Get here your copy of Summits of My Life: dreams and challenges in the mountains.


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Claire Buhrfeind Goes on 5.14 Sending Spree

Claire Buhrfeind is visiting the Red River Gorge and has climbed three 5.14s in two days.

Buhrfeind, one of America’s top competition climbers, had never climbed a 5.14 before her visit to Kentucky. Now she has climbed Omaha Beach 5.14a, Lucifer 5.14c and Southern Smoke 5.14c.

Southern Smoke is one of the most classic routes of the grade in the U.S.A. and has been climbed a number of times.

The first ascent was by Joe Kinder, who said: “I couldn’t believe it hadn’t been bolted. To me, the direct line was the most profound thing I had seen in the Red at the time.

I was really drawn to the steep angle and the sculpted holds that the Red yields. Through the process of cleaning, bolting, and working the project, my psych verged on the point of manic. I remember leaving Miguel’s Pizza at 10 p.m. one night to bolt.

“There were bats flying around and spooky noises in the woods. I was alone and totally losing it. I finished and ran back to my car, looking in my rearview mirror to see if there was anything behind me or psycho killers hunting me.

“To go through the process of a first ascent with someone else is awesome as you share ideas, beta, theories, and fight through the unknown together. [Brad Weaver and I] were toe to toe for the FA, and it just happened to be me to climb it first.”

Southern Smoke has been climbed by other top female climbers, including Anna Laitinen, Brooke Raboutou, Melissa Le Nevé and Sasha DiGiulian.

Lucifer 5.14c is another area test-piece with a handful of ascent. At the end of last year, American Michaela Kiersch sent it and other hard lines at the Red including Pure Imagination 5.14c and the first female ascent of Golden Ticket 5.14c.

And Omaha Beach 5.14a is the king line at the Madness Cave, first climbed in 1999 by Bill Ramsey. It climbs out the steepest part of the cave to the highest part of the cliff. It was originally graded 5.13d, but upgraded after several holds broke. This is the quintessential Red line.

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The Spanish Bouldering Cup Season 2017 Ends

The Spanish Bouldering Cup season for 2017 wrapped up at Chris Sharma’s gym in Barcelona this past weekend.

It was the fourth and final stage of the popular competition that had over 100 competitors take place in one or all of the stages.

Jon Flor took first place at all four events, while Itziar Zabala won two. They both won the national title earlier this fall.

Finals Male/Female
1. Jonatan Flor / Itziar Zabala
2. Eric López / Mari Alarcon
3. Javi Cano / Maja Jonjic

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Ben Dare Remembers Friend With New Alpine Route

Ben Dare made the first ascent of his new 550-metre Remembrance on the south face of Mount Cook on Nov. 18.

Dare soloed his new route up the aesthetic face after heading to the Hooker Valley with no real objective.

His chosen line was one he’d attempted on his last visit to the area with partner Conor Smith. As many will remember, Smith and Sarwan Chand died on the south face of Marian Peak in the Darran Mountains in Fiordland earlier this year.

Remembrance climbs the Noeline Glacier into ice and rock to the South Ridge. From there, Dare descended the ridge.

Dare is a member of the New Zealand Alpine Team and is a structural engineer based in Queenstown. He began alpine climbing on the North Island volcanoes of Ruapehu and Taranaki.

In 2015, Dare received a bravery award from Governor-General Sir Jerry Mateparae at Government House for rescuing fellow mountaineer Scott Blackford Scheele in Nepal.

They were part of a team attempting to reach the 6,900-metre summit of the unclimbed White Wave in May 2013.

At about 6,450 metres, Scheele set off a small avalanche, tumbling down ice cliffs and steep snow-covered ice ramps, knocking himself unconscious with so much force it split his helmet in two.

Dare rappelled down to find him confused, disoriented and delirious. He realized there was no way his climbing partner could make it down the mountain on his own. Over the next 36 hours, Dare lowered Scheele one rope length at a time.

He gave Scheele his jacket for warmth, spending the night in the bitter cold even though he himself was suffering from a bad cough. At the base, Dare half-carried, half-dragged Scheele back to camp, where they had to wait for help to arrive.

They were flown to Kathmandu, where Scheele was treated in intensive care for a week. After receiving the Royal Humane Society Silver Medal for bravery on Thursday, Dare said he felt proud to have been able to help a “really good mate.”

He has climbed hard new routes in the European Alps, Chilean Andes, Khumbu Himalaya and New Zealand. Read Dare’s story of his first ascent below.

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VIMFF Adventure Film Grant Presented by Arc’teryx

The Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival (VIMFF) and Arc’teryx have partnered to present this filmmaker development grant to further our shared commitment to supporting Canadian adventure film.

The grant award’s $5,000 to the selected recipient filmmaker to produce their proposed project which will premiere at VIMFF the following calendar year.

This grant is intended to support emerging filmmakers specializing in mountain film. We hope it will help them kick start a successful career and enable them to produce a film they have been dreaming of. The recipient will also get the opportunity to be mentored throughout the process by the Arc’teryx professional and in house media team.

Our aim is to support the development of Canadian adventure filmmakers, promote self-propelled wilderness adventures and bring the resulting story to the VIMFF screen for our community to enjoy.

Details of the Grant:

  • Applications will be accepted from Nov. 7 2017 until Dec. 31 2017.
  • Recipients of the filmmaker grant will be awarded at the VIMFF festival in February 2018.
  • The supported film project will be produced between February 2018 and January 2019.
  • The winning filmmaker will be awarded $5000 CAN from VIMFF & Arc’teryx to be used towards the production of their film project. They will also get the opportunity to be mentored throughout the process by the AArc’teryx professional and in house media team.
  • The final film will premiere at the 22st annual VIMFF in February 2019.


  • Individuals must be Canadian residents and be residing within Canada.
  • The proposed film topic must be in line with the activities that VIMFF and Arc’teryx support and encourage. Therefore the film topic must profile self-propelled wilderness oriented adventures.
  • The proposed film must be no longer than 20 minutes.
  • Film participants must be extensively prepared, through both physical training and gear preparation.
  • Recipients must be self-reliant and carry appropriate safety gear and communication devices relevant for the location and activity.
  • Participants must minimize environmental impacts and practice safe, responsible use of the outdoors.

How to Apply:

  • Applications should be emailed to by December 31st 2017 with the subject title: “Application to Adventure Film Grant.”

Applications should include the following:

  • Full bio and professional resume of the main filmmaker(s) – including links to previous films, show reels and any other applicable projects.
  • Full breakdown on the rest of the film crew, including name, position, relevant experience.
  • Proposed film basics – name, projected length, synopsis.
  • Location, timing and logistics – when? where? how?
  • Detailed story line – why do you think this story needs to be told? Why does this narrative appeal to you as a filmmaker?
  • Detailed budget breakdown of all costs involved
  • Any other sponsorships or funding support you may have in place.

Please direct any enquiries to

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Hermann Buhl, the pioneer of modern Himalayism who started on the wrong foot

From Tirol to Nanga Parbat is the
autobiography of Hermann Buhl, the most prominent precursor of
modern himalayism. Desnivel the reedita to commemorate the 60
anniversary of his death in Chogolisa, after having
got the first ascent to Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak.

Ana Torres / Desnivel
– Friday, November 10, 2017 – Updated at 12:51 pm

Hermann Buhl was still a
"Little boy to grow up" who made his first ascents
in the mountains of Austria, next to his house. One Sunday, with the
Wilder Kaiser full of climbers, got into a rope of three
and the friend who went first fell too many meters because of an error
ensure. Despite the cold, inexperience and haste got
the injured person, but when they reach the ground, the "figures" of the
moment they blamed him for the accident and predicted a
short run.

-You should stay at home. In
the mountain you do not paint anything. You will never become a mountaineer
they told them.

And he, who felt that passion for
the rocks devoured him, he swore they were going to make a mistake: "That I do not
did he paint anything on the mountain? If I was that I could not live without the
Montana! I did not imagine, I dreamed, I lived, nothing that was not of the
Montana. And I made a secret oath: « I will be
mountaineer, bad that they are sorry

From Tirol to Nanga Parbat is the
fascinating autobiography by Hermann Buhl the account of the steps that
gave to overcome his clumsiness and become an iconoclastic mountaineer
and provocateur of prodigious talent that has gone down in history as
the most prominent precursor of modern Himalayism. His ascension in
lonely to still virgin Nanga Parbat in 1953, just a few days
after the Hillary-Tenzing roped crown the top of the
Everest, consecrated him as an outstanding athlete.

Hermann Buhl retained
an exemplary modesty, even when his exploits put
knees to the alpine world of his time

Buhl conquered the summit after a
solo nightclub This is described by Kurt Diember who
was his roped partner and the last one who saw him alive in the
fateful expedition of Chogolisa:

"He started solo since the last
camp located under the Silver Chair towards the Nanga summit
that mountain disputed for years by which they had
More than thirty climbers died. Without oxygen equipment, with a
backpack, ice ax and ski poles, had been found
alone, under that dark sky, in the area of ​​death, where no
living being can resist a long time, "wrote his friend.
"He reached the top and came back. With severe freezing, after
incredible pains and fatigue, after an endless bivouac to the
outdoors, at eight thousand meters of height, still, standing on a
small landing Accompanied by strange, wobbly voices
fatigue, to the limit of his self ".

From Tirol to Nanga Parbat collects
this and other outstanding chapters of the life of Hermann Buhl.
It also allows you to discover your passionate and overflowing personality,
alien to any kind of employer, and his humility outside the mountain.
In spite of the obtained profits, was a simple man that conserved
an exemplary modesty, even when his exploits put
knees to the alpine world of his time.


Hermann Buhl, the biography of a pioneer:


 Cover of the book 'From Tirol to Nanga Parbat', by Hermann Buhl. "Src =" -9788498294040.jpg "style =" width: 150px; height: 230px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; margin: 5px; float: left; "/> </p>
<p> From Tirol to Nanga Parbat </p>
<p> <em> by Hermann Buhl </em> </p>
<p> From Tirol to Nanga Parbat is a unique autobiographical book that Desnivel reissues commemorating the 60th anniversary of his death, occurred during his attempt to Chogolisa in 1957, and a few weeks after having achieved, along with Kurt Diemberger, the first ascent to Broad Peak. </p>
<p>                                </p></div>
<p><br />
<br /><a href=Source link

Watch Ascent of French Route on Cholatse

Four New Zealand Alpine Team members recently climbed the north face of Cholatse via the French Route.

Steve Fortune, Matthew Scholes, Kim Ladiges and Daniel Joll spent two nights and three days climbing the route and descending the South Ridge.

Cholaste is a 6,440-metre peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepalese Himalaya. The Chola glacier descends off the east face. The north and east faces of Cholatse can be seen from Dughla, on the trail to Mount Everest base camp.

Cholatse means “lake pass peak” and was first climbed via the southwest ridge on April 22, 1982 by Vern Clevenger, Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Bill O’Connor and Peter Hackett.

In 2005, Ueli Steck soloed a new route up the north face. It was the first solo ascent of the peak.

The French Route was first climbed in 1995. In 2010, Russian climber climbers added a direct variation to the route, which is still the most difficult climb up the wall.

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