Jonatan Flor and Itziar Zabala win the 2nd Spanish Cup of Búlder 2017 in Bilbao


Desnivel.com
– Monday, October 30, 2017 – Updated at 11: 13h

The Spanish Cup of Block Climbing 2017 lived the past
Saturday the second round of the circuit, held at the PiuGaz climbing wall
Bilbao . In the same way as in the Championship
of Spain
from Barcelona a week earlier, Jonatan Flor and Itziar Zabala
climbed to the top of the podium in the men's and women's category,
respectively.

Second triumph of
Jonatan Flor

The competition in the men's category was marked by a
very equal qualifying phase, in which some of the
most illustrious names, such as Javi Cano, Alberto Rocasolano, Dani Andrada or Pol
Roca
to name just a few examples. He led that first phase the young man Mikel
Linacisoro
in search of his first victory among the elders. They also passed
to the final, in this order: Sergio Verdasco, Ander Mendieta, Eric Lopez, Jerome
González, Jonatan Flor, Cristian Gutiérrez and Carlos Catari
.

In the final, Jonatan Flor gave no option to his rivals and was
the only one capable of solving the four problems, taking victory.
Mikel Linacisoro kept the swords in full height until the end, and it was
second with three tops. The third step of the podium was very disputed between
four climbers with two blocks; finally, it was for Cristian Gutiérrez ,
after breaking the number of attempts and bonuses with Carlos Catari, Jerome
González and Eric López.

This is the second victory in the two contested races of
the 2017 Spanish Rock Climbing Cup for Jonatan Flor, who leads without
discussion the provisional general.

Itziar Zabala
maintains the level of the Championship

In the feminine category, things ended if it fits more
equaled that between the boys, although Itziar Zabala proved to be in a
great moment of form, as evidenced last week when winning the Championship
from Spain. In the qualifying phase, she was the best, although the surprising
Rebeca Pérez also stood out, making the eight blocks with some attempts
plus. They were accompanied to the final: Elba Pérez, Prudence Morgan, Maja Jonjic, Kati
Guillén, Mari Alarcón and Antia Freitas
.

In the final round, there was a total draw between Itziar
Zabala
and Maja Jonjic . Both chained three blocks in sight and obtained
four bonus to the first hit, so the result of the qualifying was worth
so that the Basque achieved the first place ahead of the Canary Islands. Rebecca
Pérez
who also solved three problems although with more attempts, achieved the
third place.

With this result, Itziar Zabala leads the classification
general, with a minimum difference on Mari Alarcón winner of the first
test in Madrid
and fourth now in Bilbao.

The third appointment of the calendar will arrive on November 11 in
the Cherry Wall wall of Plasencia .

                

For each step you pass

                                

 Cover of the book Psychology of training in climbing "src =" http://static.desnivel.com/images/2017/09/27/psicologia-del-entrenamiento-en-la-escalada_web.jpg "style =" width: 150px; height: 200px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; margin: 5px; float: left; "/> </p>
<h5>
</h5>
<p> Psychology of training in climbing </p>
<p> <em> by Luis Regueros Zapardiel </em> </p>
<p> Every step you take, do you do it under a state of full consciousness? How many times do we need to make mistakes to learn? The trial-error methodology can be very fruitful but, nevertheless, in this sport the practice sometimes does not give us the possibility of making mistakes twice. </p>
<p>                                </p></div>
</div>
</div>
</pre>
<p><br />
<br /><a href=Source link

Esteban Mena, Roberto José Morales and Nico Navarrete open 'Ecuadorian Direct' to Larkya Sur


Desnivel.com
– Monday, October 30, 2017 – Updated at 12:26 p.m.

The Ecuadorians Esteban Mena, Roberto José Morales and Nico
Navarrete
achieved a few days ago reach the summit of Larkya Sur (6.416 m)
through a new line that they have baptized as Ecuadorian Direct (VI, 5.11R, C2, 700 m). Esteban Mena himself
he advanced it in his social networks: "On October 19 at 3:30 p.m.
nepalí) a dream came true. After a long climb of two days
leaving everything on the wall and an extremely cold night on a small
ledge, we manage to reach the summit. Now we have a long and dangerous
decline ".

The descent culminated without major setbacks and the three
could hold at the base of the vertical wall and collapsed sections, at 5,600
meters high, and already quietly in the village of Dharamsala, to 4,500
meters, where they set their comfortable base camp.

Esteban Mena is one of the most promising climbers of
Ecuador. He was part of the project We are
Ecuador
promoted by Iván Vallejo which led a series of young people to the
great mountains Esteban Mena took advantage of it to make summit in the Manaslu
in 2012 and in Everest
in 2013, doing roped with his partner Carla
Pérez
whom he helped to climb without oxygen in 2016, already working as a guide
from the American agency Alpenglow Expeditions. In 2015, they two together
Nico Navarrete and Rafael Cáceres were included in the big list of
Piolets d'Or for its opening of Salt with
onion
(1,100 m, 5.12a, C1, WI5 +, M6 +) in capsule style to the east face
southeast of Kyzyl Asker without summit (up to about 5,700 m).

Two days of mountaineering

The expedition to Larkya Sur was born precisely in the
descent from the summit of Manaslu of 2012, when Esteban Mena was able to notice
a mountain that caught his attention and that was kept in the drawer of the
future projects. By then, the peak was still virgin and, although a
Georgian expedition came forward with that first absolute a few weeks earlier, the
Ecuadorian terceto did not lose an iota of motivation.

After a direct exploration of the mountain and settling in
its base camp, "on October 17 we had the first encounter with the rock of
this mountain ", according to Roberto José Morales . That day, " we set three
long
where we leave our only two strings and return to the store
happy and motivated with the quality of climbing. "

With those preparations, all that remained was to launch the attempt
definitive. How much like that Nico Navarrete :

The next day
our final attack began at 4:00 am, the first rays of the sun
They greeted us as we ascended the fixed ropes. We begin to decipher
the following sections of the wall enjoying a climbing quality . At
tenth, the rock instability and the difficulty of climbing began to
delay progress We quickly realized that the ambition to climb
in a single day it would not be possible and we prepared a site for the bivouac.

After one night
sitting in a small snowfield at 6,200 m, a cafe with scrambled eggs
hydrated they activated us at 5:00 o'clock. With the uncertainty of what we
I was waiting in the "headwall", we started to warm the skeleton. That morning and
late we lived intense moments, the final wall consisted of a series of
sections of vertical and sometimes collapsed rock that defied gravity: it was
Like climbing the giant scales of a dragon, we only expected that this time
the dragon will not wake up. With fears and euphoric screams, little by little we achieve
climb on the head of this beast. We were rewarded with a
beautiful somital edge after having scaled the most direct line, vertical
and aesthetics that our minds and bodies visualized
.

                

The methodology of training for mountaineering

                                

 Cover of the manual Training for the new mountaineering. By Steve House. "Src =" http://static.desnivel.com/images/2017/09/22/training-for-the-new-alpinism_web.jpg "style =" width: 150px; height: 212px; border-width: 0px; border-style: solid; margin: 5px; float: left; "/> </p>
<h5>
</h5>
<p> Training for the new mountaineering </p>
<p> <em> by Steve House </em> </p>
<p> Almost 450 pages full of information about resistance and strength training methodology, planning and its application to nutrition, adaptation to altitude, without forgetting mental training or evaluation </p>
<p>                                </p></div>
</div>
</div>
</pre>
<p><br />
<br /><a href=Source link

"The fruit of years of climbing and constancy"


Isaac Fernández / DESNIVEL
– Saturday, October 28, 2017 – Updated at 08:00 h.

José Enrique Agustí is one of the
classic figures of Spanish sport climbing. Although for insistence.
He tried the rope in the late '80s and let himself be bitten by the
fanaticism at the beginning of the '90s. Since then, and faithful to the aphorism 'without
hurry but without pause ', has been swelling a notebook full of chains
of eighth grade.

When you are about to arrive
1,000 eighths and about to fulfill the 41 years has made the leap to the ninth dimension
and it has been done with the repetition of L'ordre
dels factors + El super món
9a in Sant Miquel del Fai . A way equipped by
Martí Iglesias with first ascent of Diego
Marseille
in December 2012 and from which only the
illustrious repetitions of Ramon
Julian
and Dani Andrada .

José Enrique Agustí was born in Valencia
and lived there until 24 or 25 years old. "When I met Olga, my wife and mother
my son Aniol, I moved to Catalonia, first a couple of years ago in Lleida and
then in the city where my wife was born, in Terrassa "he explains himself. HE
dedicates to the tasks of professor of Physical Education in the ESO, in the Nicolau Institute
Copèrnic de Terrassa. I have been there for 5 years and, in addition to physical education,
to his students a optional subject of sport climbing, urban bouldering and parcours .

Family, work and, in
consequently, little time to climb. An obstacle that has never served
as an excuse and that continues to surpass each day to continue forward with his
passion. We talk to him to tell us how he takes it and the details of the
ascension.

"I've been climbing for 25 years, and I remember
fear with the chest harness and the chirukas "

Yours is practically the story of the
sport climbing in this country. When did you start climbing and what do you remember
of those moments?
Man, as well as saying that my story is the history of the
sports, I do not know … I've been climbing for 25 years, even though I'm 8 or 9 years old
1986 had already climbed in Peñas de Guaita in Puzol with my father, who
started in all this. Jose
Luis Agustí
climber and mountaineer, is the most guilty person that has
Come to where I am now.

From those beginnings I remember
go fear with the chest harness and climbing with chirukas. Already with 15 years old
father took me to the first youth competition of País Valencià in Tavernes
of Valldigna. There I met people of my age, like Joaquín Lechuga, and from
then I have not stopped climbing and enjoy trips and climbs, with the
goal of emulating the teacher and idol of youth Wolfgang Güllich, dead little
after starting to climb me.

"I have already shot the 1,000 eighths; the day
I'll make a party "

What has been the evolution of your escalation to
over time?
My evolution, I would define it as something progressive and slow. I've always
wanted to base my evolution on the accumulation of experience by climbing a lot to
sight, so for a long time I only climbed on sight and with few trials,
getting to do 8b at sight. Doing a lot of chained degree never interested me
too much, since I think I'm not doing very well.

Psychologically, it has cost me
a lot of performance when I already have the way to point, making many hits to roads that
I could have settled before. But I think that has forged in me a spirit of
calm, to know that insistently everything ends up coming. I think it has helped me
much that pyramid system, with a very broad base of eighths: I already have
I shot the thousand eighths, and the day I arrive I'll have a little party. My evolution
to get to do 9a, it's just the fruit of years of climbing and
constancy.

"Secret of youth? … As Dani says
Andrada, motivation is the key "

You're about to turn 41 and you've just
make your first 9a, what is your secret of youth?
Secret of youth … Man, I think that as Dani says
Andrada, one of the climbers that I admire most, motivation is the key.
In addition to being always motivated, an active lifestyle and eating
careful where seasonal and ecological products are important and a
daily session at six in the morning of yoga, I think they also help
stay young or rather healthy.

How would you describe L'ordre dels factors + The super mon ?
The way is a combination of those in the cave of Ali Baba in
Rodellar It consists of linking a crossing of about 24 movements as
8B -which can represent an 8b + track-, with a 40 meter roof track
of a very athletic and acrobatic style of an approximate difficulty of 8c +. The
via several resting points through kneebars where the use of knee pads is indispensable.

What does it have to do so well for the
Climbers of 40? Diego Marsella also chained her to that age …
I do not think it's a significant fact. Maybe the style based on
definition of resistance, capacity that allows us to recover from a
effort and delay the appearance of fatigue, be a style that
Climbers of advanced age like Diego and I can adapt well. But no
I think it has as much to do with age and yes more with patience to rehearse
the 150 movements of which this open-roof monster consists of another
monster, Martí Iglesias.

"The process on the road has been harassment and
knocked down three years ago "

How has the process been on the road? What do you
attracted from it and how have you been working?
The process has been consciously a trial or harassment and demolition
of the different variants of the cave. Three years ago I started doing Penjim penjam 8c, to continue with The super passeig another 8c that already
shares half of its route with 8c +.

Last year I got to do it
with this 8c +, which consists of repeating The super
passeig
but entering by a called 8b / + The reverse mon : the resulting path is called the reverse superm . And this year I decided to try the trip,
I did in three sessions. Then the heat came and I kept climbing in the cave and
making hits from time to time to the trave and the track, but focused on other
cave tracks and chaining two 8b +: Oxigen
and The llicenciat . Already at the end of September,
with cooler, I was able to chain the track and the track the same day and I started to try
the monster in one go. The trave left me so tired that when I reached the block
of 8c +, in the third plate, which is a two-handed jump, always fell. Until
this Wednesday, when I managed to pass and I chained …

What was the day of the chain?
The day of the chain came with much desire, since the week
previous had gone three afternoons to accumulate and, after almost three days of
I rest, I arrived full of energy. But the stars were not on my side and the
wind, which always circulates in this cave, did not appear throughout the afternoon,
the temperature and humidity are quite high. Maybe that's why I heated up without
pretensions and without pressure, knowing that it would not be the day. But when completing the
trave and rest well, I faced the haul with two hands without complexes and I did it; from
here to the chain was a struggle, since there are 35 meters of roof of 8c and I did not know
if the final part would be wet or not.

How can climbing be combined with
maximum level with the day to day of life?
To combine the escalation and the life consists in having a woman like the
mine, that lets me go out and takes care of my son, and in having a lot of desire and motivation
to perform in the few hours I dedicate to climbing.

"Doing 9a is now very normal
and that does not come close to elite escalation "

How much time do you spend on climbing?
Do you train planned?
As I say, I dedicate hours. Maybe one afternoon a week between
week and one morning and one afternoon during the weekend. But I'm going to death
than when I had more time. I do not follow any training; I started in September
last year with Pedro Bergua, but I had to leave because of lack of time.

From the perspective that gives the time,
How do you see the progression and current situation of the sport?
The escalation has been evolving a lot, as the
materials and trainings have been improving. The specialization and improvement
of young people's results, reaching limits previously unthinkable for
climbers, suggest that the limits are not written and
they will reach levels of performance superior to the tenth grade … something incredible.

Making 9a is now something
very normal and does not come close to elite climbing.

Which ones?
Are your next goals and projects?

My short-term projects is to try to scale a little bit and start
get into some other project that let me dedicate a few hours in the afternoon
under the light of the spotlights and the front … if I find some fanatic that
accompany, which is the most complicated for me.

                

For each step you pass

                                

 Cover of the book Psychology of training in climbing "src =" http://static.desnivel.com/images/2017/09/27/psicologia-del-entrenamiento-en-la-escalada_web.jpg "style =" width: 150px; height: 200px; border-width: 1px; border-style: solid; margin: 5px; float: left; "/> </p>
<h5>
</h5>
<p> Psychology of training in climbing </p>
<p> <em> by Luis Regueros Zapardiel </em> </p>
<p> Every step you take, do you do it under a state of full consciousness? How many times do we need to make mistakes to learn? The trial-error methodology can be very fruitful but, nevertheless, in this sport the practice sometimes does not give us the possibility of making mistakes twice. </p>
<p>                                </p></div>
</div>
</div>
</pre>
<p><br />
<br /><a href=Source link

Watch Stephan Vogt Send Classic Action Directe 5.14d


Stephan Vogt spent over 20 days in a span of five years projecting one the most famous sport routes. Watch the Frankenjura send below.

It’s often acknowledged as the world’s first 5.14d, Wolfgang Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA grade of XI.

It’s considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It’s also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off mono pockets.

Güllich invented the campus board to train the specific strength needed for it.

Milan Sykora bolted this line in the 1980s with a different start. Güllich climbed it in 1991. He used a 16-move sequence and a more direct start with a dynamic jump into a two-finger pocket.

Dai Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves.

List of Known Repeats
– Alexander Adler on Sept. 9, 1995
– Iker Pou on June 7, 2000
– Dave Graham on May 21, 2001
– Christian Bindhammer on May 24, 2003
– Rich Simpson (some have doubted) on Oct. 13, 2005
– Dai Koyamada on Oct. 15, 2005
– Markus Bock on Oct. 22, 2005
– Kilian Fischhuber on Sept. 25, 2006
– Adam Ondra on May 19, 2008
– Patxi Usobiaga on Oct. 24, 2008
– Gabriele Moroni on April 17, 2010
– Jan Hojer on May 22, 2010
– Adam Pustelnik on Oct. 10, 2010
– Felix Knaub on Oct. 22, 2011
– Rustam Gelmanov on March 26, 2012
– Alexander Megos on May 3, 2014
– Felix Neumärker on May 16, 2015
– Julius Westphal on June 25, 2015
– Stefano Carnati in 2016
– David Firnenburg in 2016
– Stephan Vogt in 2017
– Simon Lorenzi in 2017



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The 2017 Pan-Am Youth Championships in Montreal


The 2017 Pan-American Youth Championships will take place from Oct. 30 to Nov. 5 in Montreal.

Climbing Escalade Canada (CEC) and Accès Escalade Montréal (AEM) will be hosting the event at Horizon Roc.

See here for the event page.

There will be a Qualifications and Finals for each discipline. Plus a combined Olympic format Finals for Youth A as a qualifier for Buenos Aires Youth Olympics in 2018.

A special award for the Youth A Olympic combined will be handed out. All other categories will be standard podium finishes.



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First Ascent of Pedra Baina, Brazilian Big Wall


Watch the first ascent of the east face of Pedra Baiana, which resulted in one of the hardest big wall in Brazil.

Pedra Baina

The 800-metre route called Sangue Latino took 14 days to free and resulted in 17 pitches to 5.13a.

The climbers are Edemilson Padilha, Valdesir Machado, Willian Lacerda, Horacio Gratton and Wagner Borges.

For more photos and reports on the climb visit here.



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New Alpine Mixed Route on Shivling in Himalayas


Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini have made the first ascent of a new route on Shivling, a stunning 6,543-metre peak in the Indian Himalayas.

Their route is called Shiva’s Ice and it climbs up between the North Pillar and Shiva’s Line. The North Pillar was climbed by Hans Kammerlander and Christoph Hainz in 1993.

Climbing Shiva’s Ice. Photo Simon Gietl

As Planetmountain.com reported, Messini and Gietl worked on the difficult approach between the end of September and start of October. There were heavy snows that slowed things down.

Due to the conditions, their main objective wasn’t going to go. After stashing some gear and resting, they spent two days climbing up to nearly 6,000 metres before retreating for rest.

They then went back up their fixed ropes and joined the North Pillar. In total they spent three nights on the mountain.

They gave their new 1,500-metre route a grade of M6 WI5 and noted similar to routes on the Grandes Jorasses but 3,000 metres higher.

For more, visit Gietl’s Facebook page here.

Shiva’s Ice on Shivling. Photo Simon Gietl



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"I want to go to an ochomil in winter to try things that nobody has done"


Simone Moro turns 50 today.
"I have motivation, and this is like a summit," he says. We speak
with him the projects he has at hand: a new book in
Spanish ( Nanga who has just released Desnivel), his passion for
 helicopters and
his imminent winter project, whose goal he still does not want to reveal.
He also shares with us many other ideas: on the Everest
winter of Alex Txikon, the Everest of Kilian Jornet, the Nanga Parbat wintry …

Darío Rodríguez / DESNIVEL
– Thursday, October 26, 2017 – Updated at 10:15 p.m.

Simone Moro (Bergamo, 1967) leaves today
half a century behind – "with all the fingers and hands
feet, "he tells us – and with the first four winters in his
curriculum: the Shisha Pangma in 2005, the Makalu in 2009, the
Gasherbrum II in 2011 and Nanga Parbat in 2016 . "I have
motivation, and this is already a summit, "he says in this
interview. "I train like a horse every day. Carlos
Soria is a classic example of ardent fire within the soul, with
78 years! "
.

What is your next project?
I can not detail it yet, but I
would like to make a expedition in winter . It will be an exploration,
a winter climb complicated by the environmental factor, a rise
very technical and very hard. I like to go to the ochomiles in winter
to try things that no one has done as crossings, new routes
or tracks in alpine style. What is certain is that the next
project will not be an ochomil.

Why do you like the olympism
winter?

Because it's another sport, another world. Is
an adventure and an exploration in which there are only ten percent
of possibilities to climb to the summit. It is really an exploration,
a rare but very exhilarating way of living the mountain.

"Maybe you can land
in Collado Sur with a helicopter to rescue people "

Apart from mountaineering, you have
dedicated in recent years to rescue helicopters in Nepal.
What is the most complicated of that other facet? The part
economic part?

The economic part of the rescue does not
usually gives problems if it is with climbers or trekkers, because they usually
have insurance that pays. The most delicate thing is the local people, who
have money. There are thirty million people in Nepal and very few
can pay insurance. With regard to technical problems,
main are height or bad weather by wind or clouds. Is a
adventure rescue someone in the Himalayas.

How do you combine mountaineering and

I eat as a climber, and I spend
what won in the helicopters. Surely it will be a situation
temporary, I hope to start earning some money soon. To buy
a helicopter costs a lot of money and I have not done it to earn it, but as a solidarity project but I need it in the end
of the year the accounts are at least zero. It can not be
negative.

Your incursion into the world of
helicopters are also making you explore the limits of rescue in height …

The pilot can make the decision of
how much risk to take. If you are going to fly to 6,500 or 7,000 meters you know that
you are at the operational limit of the machine and your physical limit. The
The highest rescue ever made in the world was with a helicopter of mine
to 7,800 meters
on the yellow band of Everest. It may be that in
a future some can repeat it and can also land
in Collado Sur to rescue people.

"The summit in the Nanga I'm going to
save in my heart because it was a historical moment "

It has just been published Nanga
(Ediciones Desnivel), tu
fourth book in Spanish. What do you count in it?

The book tells the story of The
first winter ascent to Nanga Parbat
with Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara
and Tamara Lunger
. It is an authentic story of one of the
most beautiful expeditions of my life. The summit at the Nanga is going to
keep in my heart because it was a historical moment, not just for
be the first winter in that mountain, but because it was my fourth to
an ochomil in winter.

A pity that later there were those who wanted to put it in doubt …
Fortunately I have photos and small
videos in the cumbe. I liked that on the climb that made one
expedition a little earlier were made photos at the summit in which it was seen
exactly the rock that appears later in mine, just as the
nail that is on the top. This is the confirmation that Simone,
Alex, Ali and Tamara are not liars
. It's a shame that with those
there are people who have doubts. Today people do not believe anything: no
trust what you hear and believe only 50% of what you see.

Stars on the Annapurna on his dramatic expedition of 1997 where his companions died Dimitri Sobolev and Anatoli Bukreev; The voice of the ice on winter ochomiles; Nanga the account of the first ascent to the Nanga Parbat, just published]

Wings in the heart which explores his facet as a helicopter pilot,

                

The first winter to Nanga Parbat:

                                

 Book cover Nanga by Simone Moro. "Src =" http://static.desnivel.com/images/2017/10/26/nanga_web.jpg "style =" margin: 5px; padding: 0px; line-height: normal; border: 0px solid; font-size: 1em; width: 150px; height: 230px; float: left; "/> </p>
<h5>
</h5>
<p> NANGA </p>
<p> <em> by Simone Moro </em> </p>
<p> Step by step, with the necessary tenacity not to surrender, and with the permanent respect towards the mountain, the nature and the limits of the human being.</p>
<p>; & nbsp </p>
<p>; & nbsp </p>
<p>                                </p></div>
</div>
<div class=

Simone Moro and her passion for flying:

                                

Wings in the heart

by Simone Moro

Passion for flight and rescue missions in height gathers the vertigo of flight, the claim of the highest peaks of Earth, personal challenge and the desire to help other people.

                                

Ochomilismo invernal:

                                

The voice of the ice

The ochomiles in winter: my dream almost impossible

by Simone Moro

The voice of the ice is a great story of motivation and passion for exploration and, in particular, for the winter ochomilismo.

                                



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Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini open a new route to Shivling


'SHIVA'S ICE' (1.500 M, WI5, M6)

        

The rope of surtiroleses mountaineers
ascend this 6,543 m peak of the Gharwal Himalayas through Shiva's ice a new line of 1,500 m
with difficulties of up to WI5 and M6 open with three vivacs in wall.

        

Desnivel.com
– Friday, October 27, 2017 – Updated at 1:45 pm

                

                
                

 

                     Vittorio Messini and Simon Gietl on top of Shivling after climbing 'Shiva's ice'

Vittorio Messini and Simon Gietl on top of Shivling after climbing 'Shiva's ice' (Col. S. Gietl)

    

 
        
        

The Shivling (6,543 m) is a mountain that has its small
portion of mountaineering history since the year 2000, when Thomas Huber and Iwan
Wolf
traced in it Shiva's line and
they obtained the Piolet d'Or . The beak had been first touched
in 1974 by an Indian-Tibetan expedition, and in 1993 was also the scene of
another good ascension, in charge of the surtiroleses Christoph Hainz and Hans
Kammerlander
by the North Pillar.

The impressive relief of the mountain has attracted
numerous expeditions, such as that of Jordi Tosas with
Eva Zarzuelo and José M. Buenaga in 2002; the one of Alberto
Iñurrategi
Jon Beloki and Eneka Guenetxea
in 2006; the one of Santi
Padrós and Elies Coll
in 2010, or that of the Russian Valery
Rozov
who jumped in a wing suit from its summit in 2012. It is, therefore, a peak
which proves a certain popularity, so it has double merit the fact
ascending to it by a new route and that is what they have done Simon Gietl and
Vittorio Messini
.

The two surtiroleses initially intended to follow the
steps of Thomas Huber and Iwan Wolf and repeat the demanding Shiva's line . However, they soon saw that the conditions of
Intense cold and lots of fresh snowfall
with the project. Precisely these conditions exposed a line
new
by snow corridors, ice sections and mixed terrain between
Huber-Wolf and Hainz-Kammerlander lines. And for her they left.

According to account Vittorio Messini in the blog
of their guide company, made two climbs along the line, two days
each, to prepare the most complicated sections facing the attempt
definitive. In the first one, they made a deposit of material to 5,500
m, and in the second they climbed to 5,900 m and fixed some stretches of
rope

Last October 9 they launched the top attempt from the
base camp, located at 4,300 m. In the first day, they rose to 5,500
meters from their warehouse, where they spent the first night. Then,
negotiated the section equipped with fixed ropes and connected with the north pillar
to almost 6,000 meters
. At that point, where it had been 24 years before two
of their idols Christoph Hainz and Hans Kammerlander, bivouacked for the second time

Initially, they had planned to go to the summit on the
high of the Shiva's line but of
again the cold made them give up that idea and change it for another itinerary more
to the right that connected with the route Japanese .
After noon on October 11, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini reached
the summit of Shivling
.

They carried out the descent along the same line of the
ascension, although they had to interrupt it by the arrival of the dark
for bivouac for the third time at the same point as the previous night. To the
final, arrived at the base camp on October 12 and christened the line as Shiva's ice (1,500 m, WI5, M6).

                



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Hans Kammerlander, Manaslu CB Road 26 years later


Desnivel.com
– Thursday, October 26, 2017 – Updated at 4:30 p.m.

Hans Kammerlander is already found
in Nepal and on the way to the base camp of Manaslu (8,163 m). Accompany him
Stephan Keck as a chord companion, as well as a film crew that
has the objective of capturing the last sequences of the documentary Manaslu – mountain of souls who will narrate
the haphazard trajectory of the surtirolés alpinista and that should be able to premiere
on the big screen for fall 2018.

A life of film

The truth is that in the argument,
as they say, reality surpasses fiction. The life of Hans
Kammerlander
is plagued with ups and downs. It became known in the '80s as
the last companion of chord of Reinhold Messner with whom this one
The last fourteen ochomiles finished. In 1983, he began in Cho Oyu ,
opening route along the west side, along with Michel Dacher . In 1984,
shared the historic first crossing of two ochomiles, to link in
Alpine style the G2 and G1
. The Dhaulagiri and the opening of the route
of the northwestern side of Annapurna arrived in 1985. And the Makalu and
the Lhotse fell in 1986, hastily because came Kukuczka (who
finally finished the Fourteen in 1987). With the Lhotse, Messner finished the
collection

Kammerlander was left without
-Messner had promised his mother not to return to the great
mountains, "but he went his own way, dividing his time between eighteen thousand
and difficult climbs. Like the Cerro Torre for the Maestri in
1988 in 17 hours, in its time the fastest climb. To the ochomiles, several
in autonomy, he adds descents with skis as it did in Nanga Parbat,
Everest
or Kangchenjunga (since
7.500 m). His promotion to Everest in 1996 was a record: 16h40m from the CBA
(6,400 m) of the Tibetan slope, a time not even Kilian Jornet has been able to reduce.

In 2001 after climbing his
thirteenth ochomil (actually, the 12th), the K2 by the route Cesen
with Jean-Christophe Lafaille stated that he would leave it and that it would not end
the Fourteen because he would not return to Manaslu, where his friends died. A
decision similar to that taken by Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner in 2011, who only
returned to K2 by the north face because he did not want to see the face again
south where he fell before his eyes Fredrik Ericsson . In fact, Surinrol will not
by the same north face as in 1991, but will do so by the south face

Your K2 was in the history of
Kammerlander as a final – timing – of one stage, while opening another. TO
continued to climb the Ama Dablam for television, opened a path in
the Nuptse East (7,804 m) and after two attempts in 2005 and 2006
open road in the Jasemba (7,350 m) in 2007 with several companions.
Subsequently, he entered the project of the Seven Summits and the Second Seven Summits which announced that he had finished in
2012, although later Christian Stangl argued that some of
those peaks were not the second highest of its continent.

That same 2012, got into a
new project of the Cervins of the World with the aim of scaling the
mountains of the planet regardless of its height. But in 2013
his life suffered a major setback, having been involved in an accident
automobile
in which a person died when he was driving under the
effects of alcohol.

The Manaslu out of season

Of course, Hans Kammerlander
will attempt to ascend to Manaslu without artificial oxygen . Something that should be
more normal in this mountain and that nevertheless its everestización
during this postmontonic season has become almost exceptional.

Not to meet
commercial expeditions and enjoy a more pure form of Manaslu, Hans
Kammerlander has decided to choose a period significantly different from what
usual
. Instead of going in August to climb in September, it has gone on
October to attempt the summit during the month of November already at the gates
of winter and with a decreasing amount of daily hours of light that secure
will mark the expedition.

At age 60, this is the
expedition number 41 of Hans Kammerlander to Nepal. On his website, himself
notes that " this time is different . I am not directed towards an end
performance, no thoughts of a hard goal in my mind, my head no
it has a desire to hunt a new route. Work for the film will be
always in the background. Of course, I want to climb the Manaslu, that's clear,
but if in the end I do not get it because of the conditions, the world is not going to
to finish
".

For the time being, it is
the next few days the team arrives at Manaslu base camp to start the
work in the mountains.

                

The methodology of training of the new mountaineering

                                

 Cover of the manual Training for the new mountaineering. By Steve House. "Src =" http://static.desnivel.com/images/2017/09/22/training-for-the-new-alpinism_web.jpg "style =" width: 150px; height: 212px; border-width: 0px; border-style: solid; margin: 5px; float: left; "/> </p>
<h5>
</h5>
<p> Training for the new mountaineering </p>
<p> <em> by Steve House </em> </p>
<p> Nearly 450 pages filled with information about resistance training methodology and strength, planning and its application to nutrition, altitude adaptation, not forgetting mental training or evaluation </p>
<p>                                </p></div>
</div>
</div>
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