New 2017 Alpine Routes in Alaska’s Revelation Mountain

The Revelation Mountains in Alaska have long been a destination for keen alpinists to establish new routes. The first recorded trip to the range was 1967 by David Roberts and party.

In 2014, Canadian Ian Welsted, Darren Vonk and Kris Irwin visited the area and climbed a number of new routes.

Angel Peak. Photo Kris Irwin

In the spring of 2016, Europeans Gediminas Simutis and Frieder Wittmann spent three weeks in the area and climbed a number of new routes above the Fish Glacier in the Revelations.

s reported on their blog, the first route they climbed was up a new peak they called The Prophet. They called the long 450-metre ridge It’s a Girl.

They then aimed for another, likely unclimbed, peak they refer to as Mephisto. They climbed a long moderate neve line up an 800-metre feature with difficulties to M4 WI4.

The third route they established was a long mountaineering-style objective up a 600-metre feature on The Charlatan they called Piled Higher and Deeper.

The final and most difficult line was Alternative Facets up The Obelisk (first climbed by Clint Helander and John Giraldo a few years ago), a 900-metre M6 WI5 A1 up a steep alpine line.

In a story on, Simutis noted, “Our first attempt came to a halt when we retreated due to strong spindrift. After recuperating and allowing the snow to settle, we were back.

“A gully with good neve lead us to a series of mixed pitches that turned out to be the crux of the route and we had to aid through a couple of sections.

“After the mixed part, a snow ramp led us to a pitch of ice which looked deceivingly fat but its bottom part started disintegrating as we were climbing it. The remaining slopes went smoothly and we were soon brewing coffee on the summit as the sun was starting to hide behind other peaks.” Full story here.

First ascent of Alternative Facts. Photo Gediminas Simutis

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Andrea Cartas Ticks Rodellar 5.14c, First of the Grade

Spanish climber Andrea Cartas has climbed her first 5.14c at La Piscineta in Rodellar with a send of Così Fan Tutte.

This big first comes quickly after Anak Verhoeven’s new Sweet Neuf 5.15a and Margo Hayes first female ascent of Biographie 5.15a.

Sasha DiGiulian climbed Cosi Fan Tutte in 2011, as her third 5.14c. Other top climbers to have recently sent it include Matilda Söderlund and Brooke Raboutou.

Cartas first climbed 5.14b in 2012 with her climb of White Zombie at Cueva de Baltzola in Spain. Watch the send below.

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Helen Mort Interviews Legend Gwen Moffat, 93, for BBC

Legendary climber 93-year-old Gwen Moffat was Britain’s first ever female mountain guide and continued climbing into her late 80s.

Moffat lived the Bohemian lifestyle through the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s, making a living from climbing. In 1945, Moffat was in her twenties when she deserted her post as a driver and dispatch rider in the Army and went to live rough in Wales and Cornwall, climbing and living on practically nothing.

Watch a trailer for the 2016 film on Gwen Moffat, Operation Moffat, below.

As a description about Moffat’s book Space Below My Feet reads, “She hitchhiked her way around, travelling from Skye to Chamonix and many places in between, with all her possessions on her back, although these amounted to little more than a rope and a sleeping bag.

“When the money ran out, she worked as a forester, went winkle-picking on the Isle of Skye, acted as the helmsman of a schooner, and did a stint as an artist’s model. And always there were the mountains, drawing her away from a ‘proper’ job.

“Throughout this unique story, there are acutely observed accounts of mountaineering exploits as Moffat tackles the toughest climbs and goes on to become Britain’s leading female climber and the first woman to qualify as a mountain guide.”

In a new poetry commission, Helen Mort attempts to do so by weaving Moffat’s memories with an original poem and binaural recordings she made of a climb in Langdale in the Lake District.


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