Urko Carmona, first 7c + at sight and a well used summer


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– Wednesday, August 30, 2017 – Updated at 1:21 pm

Urko Carmona is one of the characters of the world of climbing
That less time loses. He lives on the road, sleeps in his van and goes from
Climbing area in climbing area. In the last semester, only one
Couple of weeks at home in Alicante . As it could not be otherwise, it has
Took all the juice to a summer of 2017 that still has weeks of life.

Just a couple of days ago he exclaimed his social networks that
Was: "Giving it all! 7c + onsight! ". It is the hardest climbing line in sight of
His trajectory, realized during the stage corresponding to Cantabria of his
Pilgrimage peninsular.

It was only the last outstanding achievement of his summer, which began
Before the meteorological station started when it chained late in the
May Evil of loves 8a + in Rodellar . A
Which had been resisted for years,
Cusp of the hardest he has ever done .

Later, during the month of July, he participated in a pair
Of international climbing tests in Austria and France and obtained in
Briançon his eighth victory in an IFSC parachute competition (two
World Championships in 2012 and 2013, a test of the World Cup of Blder
2013 and four of the World Cup of Difficulty in 2015, 2016 and 2017.

We talked to him to give us some details about his
Summer activity.

"I have come to do 8a to the second hit, but in view the maximum is
7c + "

7c + is the grade
Maximum you've done in sight?
Yes, yes. I have come to do 8a to the second hit, but in view the maximum is
7c +.

It's a step
Important … I do not know if there will be another scaler with this degree …
I sure do. Maybe not in sight, but it depends on the way. And you already
I say, I've done 8a to the second hit here at La Hermida and a flood has started
important. It has begun to rain, to squeeze the jets and look, we abort
Mission and we are going down, I have to go to Italy.

The 7c +, what was it like?
You know the name of the track?
It was a pretty big crash, with a lot of knee tricks and stories.
I was lucky to see them, and some were good enough. Some rests, which
That was quite important, finding rest well. And the rest of the
Way, continuity and endure much. I took the piece of the
Exit, went to plate and as you did not see the grips well, you went fast.

"I did not imagine doing it in sight, but I was going to fight hard and see until
Where it arrived "

So, that neither
Was the ideal way to make a sight?
Power, you can, because it came out. At first I saw her quite a bit and had
Enough movements in which you doubted whether right or left, you see enough
Brands of magnesium … But you have a 8a next door that was the next one to you
I found it very hard compared to 7c +, especially for the
Block of entry, which was fatal. In this I was fortunate that the
Harder movements for people, I could get quite comfortable … And the
Luck I've had.

Did you imagine that the

Imagine me, no, but I did tell myself that I was going to fight her to the fullest and see until
Where it arrived.

It's important to you
That the routes meet certain requirements. Which side is better for you than

It depends on what the movements are like, but it usually suits me better than
Be to the right, to make the dynamics and so on. In crossings, when they are
Of inverted and all that, to the right I think that I come a little worse. Depends on
How the song is and depends on how the movement is, it comes best to me
Side than the other. It varies so much …

"On my condition, I have to block many times from bad things and stay at my feet
Flown almost always "

What's the most
Difficult to climb with one leg?
Often the subject of finding the good foot that will help you. Many times the
Tracks have feet to the right or left, but they are not helping you at all.
I need them to be centered and if not then I have to be constantly
Making adhesions … and also I have to rely very much on the only foot that
I have.

Does that force you to
To make many dynamic movements?
And having to block many times of very bad things and stay at your feet
Flown almost always.

I imagine the best

Of course, very collapsed tracks in which the feet play a minor role, and not
Are as important as on the plates. On the plates the problem is that many
Sometimes feet rise in adherence.

How was your
Summer so far?
Pretty quiet, really. I was doing some long way with my
Girl on a cliff in Cala Montgó (Girona). It was great because it leaves you
The boat, it leaves and there you stay; And the only way you have to get out is
Climbing And above the rock was damp, wet, dripping … The way
We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. I got it all released. There was some step that was not
Very, very difficult, but the subject of the wet complicated enough

" Evil of love 8a + was my project for two or
Three years "

You started there
summer. How did you follow?
Yes, in Catalonia. Then I went to Panticosa, the Tena valley, then
I went to the side of Jaca where it was also good and I made a 7c + that I tried
One day and I left the next day – and that I thought I was not going to leave
Nor praying all he knew. Quite well, the truth is that I am very
Happy … Well, I started the season in chains Evil of love [8a+, Rodellar]my project since two years ago or
three years. Last year I was testing it all the time I was in
Rodellar and had already tried it three years before. Many times, with this type of
Projects finish leaving them by another way, but look, this year has come out
Fast, as in four pegs.

Ibas with desire …
Yes, yes, with much desire. Then I also made another 8a + in the Cave of
Hunters, there in Rodellar … I'm very happy this summer, that I almost
Has gone to 8a per month. Although I have few accounts and if I do not
Notebook I forget, but I started the preseason in Margalef with Doctor Feelgood . Was like the
Training for preseason. And since then I've been doing one or two
8a's per month.

Right now, how many
8a's will you have in total?
I do not know, but there are 8a's that do seem 8a's to me and others to me
They look like 8b's or more. The graduations with me are very different.

Your degree and that of the
Bipeds have nothing to do, right?
What's up. I can do a 7b and then go to another 7b next and have nothing to
See

Which is the most
Hard that you have done for you?
It can be some 7c + and everything … Although the Evil
Of love
cost me a lot. For me, it has been the hardest route I've ever
Fact.

"Rodellar is still my favorite zone"

How are you Bad of love ? Are almost 40 meters of travel in which you are going from one block to another
Block and never stop. You have a good rest before the last block,
But all the way is very maintained; You can not even breathe. Then there is a knee
Quite good, but I can not do it.

Your favorite zone is
Rodellar?
Yes, Rodellar is still my favorite zone at the moment

But it is an area in
The one that has to walk, and for you …
Yes, you have to walk a lot, but I like it. In the end you get used to it and
Also serves as a warm-up.

You never run out of
Motivation?
Fortunately not. There are days that cost you more or it costs you less. There are days that
You arrive at a sector to climb much in sight and all the entrances are in plate
Or you screw a lot, and you sweat to make a 7a or 7b … but hey, do not stop
Much and change of sector.

Been to escalando
Much in sight?
Yes, the preparation for the competitions is climbing in sight and, as I say
I, archiving movements in the brain muscle.

Also, you have also
Won a test of the World Cup during the summer …
Yes, but to see what happens, because they have annulled a test of the World Cup
And not to cancel the World Cup now. Because I think the minimum had
Than four cups and one outside Europe, which is in India and now
We will see if it can be done, because we are few and a trip to India is not
Cheap.

"I would like to do some long way with Alfredo García before
Winter "

Do you have it now
Projects, tracks?
No, we'll keep looking. I would like to do one before the
Winter with Alfredo García. Maybe some long way, either in Naranjo
Or where there is good weather.

Last year already
Did you do something like that?
Yes, last year I was with Juan Antonio, but this year he dedicates a
Little more to the family and is more detached from competition and climbing.

How long have you been
Been on the road this year?
Well enough. I went in February, I spent in Alicante two weeks and I went back to
To go

What sentences do you have
Inspire more?
"Strength and honor" and "Pure life". I like them very much. In addition to our motto " by the face by the face", which always
I say that even if there is nothing, you want to climb we have and even for the face
We will climb

Sure, because you at
End you survive practically with nothing …
With nothing. Minimum survival. Staying at a colleague's house for a few days,
A good shower and nothing, spend little and live a lot. Simple life.

                



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Words with Evan Hau on His New Canadian 5.15


Evan Hau recently made the first ascent of Canada’s second 5.15 and became the first Canadian to climb a 5.15 route.

His hard climb is called Honour and Glory 5.15a and is found at The Coliseum in Echo Canyon above Canmore. Hau has written a feature on his climb that you can find in the October/November issue of Gripped magazine.

We recently touched base with him to get a quick insight into his historic ascent.

How does if feel to be the first Canadian to climb 5.15? It feels surreal. Actually I’m a little surprised it hasn’t been done yet, but hopefully this will inspire others to push for the grade.

Why did you call it Honour and Glory? For a long time I didn’t have a name for this climb. I wanted to stick with the Coliseum theme and I felt like a gladiator going up there all the time battling on this climb and I decided to name it after what gladiators fought for at The Roman Colosseum.

What is the hardest move or serious of moves? Honour and Glory is more of a power endurance climb; there aren’t any seriously difficult sections. The hardest individual move is about V10 or so but it’s all the V10 sections stacked on top of each other with hardly any rests which makes it difficult.

Was there ever any doubt? Like all my harder projects, in the beginning, I didn’t really think about trying to send it. It was just a really cool line I had bolted and I wanted to climb on it. Once I started to get bigger links, I knew I would do it some day but had no idea how long it would take.

How many attempts over how long? I don’t typically count number of attempts on projects but definitely took over 100 attempts. I started bolting Honour and Glory in April 2016. The Coliseum gets both sun and shade depending on time of day and I’m pretty hardcore so I tried it pretty consistently since then except for 3 months in Dec/Jan/Feb.

Did anyone else try it before or after your send? It has been tried by a few others without too much success. Hopefully more people will get on it in the future.

Why did you give it 5.15a? It’s definitely harder than my two 5.14d ascents, Bunda de Fora and Seleccio Natural. Though I haven’t sent any others, I have tried numerous routes in the 14d-15b range, mostly in Spain, and Honour and Glory does feel on par with the 15a’s that I have tried.

What’s the next project? Stereotypical sport climbing answer: 10 feet to the right of Honour and Glory I bolted a second line which is completely independent. I’ve only tried it a few times but so far it’s just as good and seems like it will be roughly the same difficulty.

Did you do anything to celebrate? Not really, I tend to “celebrate” after any fun day out climbing regardless of if anyone sent anything or not, so it was just more of the usual, but I guess I partied just a little harder that night.

Who is your climbing hero? Growing up as a climber, my climbing hero was Chris Sharma. I think I’ve modeled my climbing after his in a lot of ways. These days I don’t really have a hero anymore and I’m trying to make my own way as a climber.



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Watch Chris Sharma Climb Wild 5.14 DWS


Chris Sharma has climbed “a perfect line” up the Vallon Pont d’Arc in Southern France. His new deep water solo (DWS) route is a 30-metre 5.14 that took him four days to piece together.

He started from the water and worked on the route without rappelling in to inspect the line. On Instagram he wrote, “Free soloing has never been my cup of tea. But put some deep water below and now you’re talking.”

“Last week I climbed one of the best routes of my life. After so many years, it’s amazing to keep finding routes that inspire me in new ways. The Pont d’Arc is an absolute dream line.”

Sharma helped put put DWS on the map with his Es Pontas 5.15 line in Spain, his many videos featuring the sport and his Psicobloc DWS competition in Utah.

“It’s hard to believe something like this even exists,” Sharma noted. “It tops out at around 30 meters on the far side of the arch (that you can’t see in the photo). A perfect line, on perfect rock in a perfect location.

“Although it felt plenty hard, it may not be the most difficult climb I’ve ever climbed.” Watch him on his new big deep water solo below.



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Canadian Youth Heading to World Championships 2017


The IFSC Youth World Championships will be taking place from Aug. 30 to Sept. 10 in Innsbruck, Austria. There are over 1,000 registered climbers.

The big event will have 24 category rankings where climbers from the around the world will compete head to head. Visit here to watch the live streams.

You can find all of the competition information here.

The Canadian Youth Heading to World Championships:
Male Youth A Lead: David Trudeau
Male Youth B Lead: Victor Baudrand, Brennan Doyle
Male Juniors Lead: Tosh Sherkat, Lucas Uchida
Female Youth A Lead: Bronwen Karnis, Chloe Earle, Dana Montieth, Sophie Buitendyk, Alejandra Contreras
Female Youth B Lead: Riley Galloway
Female Juniors Lead: Mika Hosoi, Eva Thompson
Male Youth A Speed: Sam Bouchard
Male Youth B Speed: Brennan Doyle
Male Juniosr Speed: Alex Closset
Female Youth A Speed: —
Female Youth B Speed: Sonya Johanson, Teyha Rogers
Female Juniors Speed: —
Male Youth A Boulder: Zach Richardson, Mitchell Haight, David Trudeau
Male Youth B Boulder: Owen Gambling
Male Juniors Boulder: Rahul Sapra, Lucas Uchida, Tosh Sherkat
Female Youth A Boulder: Madison Fischer, Bronwen Karnis, Sophie Buitendyk
Female Youth B Boulder: —
Female Juniors Boulder: Elizabeth Vince, Eva Thompson, Justine McCarney, Mika Hosoi
Male Youth A Combined: Aidan Doyle, Manh Ellis
Male Youth B Combined: Guy and Kindar McNamee
Male Juniors Combined: Kyle Murdoch, Alex Fricker
Female Youth A Combined: Aggy St-Jacques, Cat Carkner
Female Youth B Combined: Indiana Chapman, Babette Roy
Female Juniors Combined: Zoe Beauchemin



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New Film ‘Pretty Strong’ is Much Needed


This new film project called ‘Pretty Strong’ promises to be an action-packed and inspiring project once complete.

The film’s production team have started a kickstarter page, on which they note, “A climbing film about women, by women, for everyone.

“This isn’t a film about gender imbalance or the sexualization of women or what it’s like to have your period at the crag. This is a film about five of the best climbers in the world doing what they do best: crushing.

“Pretty Strong will follow five female climbers around the world as they explore new climbing areas, find projects and push the boundaries of our sport.”

The team explains that out of 91 main segments in high production climbing films (which they watched as research), there were only eight segments that featured a female climber as the main character (and the same woman was the subject in three of those).

For more on the project and the team be sure to visit their fundraising page here. We look forward to this one! Click to watch a trailer below.



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Ten dead in the Alps on a weekend, reflections on the ascent in assembly


Isaac Fernández / DESNIVEL
– Tuesday, August 29, 2017 – Updated at 7:45 pm

The last weekend of August has been fateful in
The Alps . A mountaineer was killed by a fall on the north side of the Cervino .
Another one rushed into the vacuum about 40 meters
In the 3,000 m height when it descended from Monte Vioz (3,645 m, mass of
Ortles). A third still died of a rock fall in the
Gavia pass . But the two most serious accidents have
Protagonists the chordates. In total, ten dead in five accidents in two days.

Six chord with five dead

The first of the two chordates, of six members of nationality
German
was about 2,900 meters high in the Zillertal Alps
(Austria), below the Mannlkarscharte pass . Snow conditions
Hard and presence of ice, apparently one of them slipped, dragging the
Rest of the group to a fall of about 200 meters by the slope until finishing
In a crack.

Five of the injured (34, 56, 65, 69 and 70)
Died as a result of the fall
. Only the oldest, aged 75,
Survived with wounds. He was evacuated by helicopter and taken to the hospital.
Salzburg.

The rescue groups have not yet given a clear version
of what happened. Some sources speak of the possible rope breakage as
Cause of multiple fall.

Three chords of three,
With three dead and two seriously injured

The second rope-related accident affected
nine people of Italian nationality members of two families. HE
Distributed in three chords of three to traverse the glacier of the
Presanella
(Trentino). They departed in the morning from the Denza refuge and
Slope at about 3,200 m high, near the forcella Freshfield (3,375 m), when one of the chordates lost control and rushed downhill.

Another rope tried to maneuver to help
The injured when, in turn, also lost foot and suffered the same
luck. With the added misfortune that in their fall, they have dragged the
Third rope.

Two persons of 41 and 45 died instantly after
Falling into a crack, while three others were seriously injured. One of
They died later, after their transfer to the hospital.

Reflections on the
: False security

Without going into the concrete causes of accidents
Happened this weekend in the Alps, we talked to the mountain guide Maximo
Murcia
about the chords, the precautions and their risks. Although
Any analysis "depends on the difficulty of the terrain, the exposure and
Of the concrete place ", as a general summary, two ideas: " the big chordates are
Synonym of danger "
and " a rope without anchors during an ascent, does not serve
Of nothing "
.

From your perspective, a professional guide "can monitor two
Or three people maximum
if the ascent is easy. On routes where there are
That climbing or in which there may be falls, you can only carry one person.
In Zermatt, for example, the ratio for climbing the Matterhorn is from one customer per
Guide, while in the normal route of Mont Blanc serious companies do not
They go from two customers per guide. " Of course, when the chordate is not
Led by a professional guide, should be further
Precautions.

" Go
All tied together in a single rope, the only thing they have is the solidarity that if
One falls, one falls all
… "

Risks for large chordata are evident and have been
Demonstrated in both actual and controlled experiments. " Go
All tied to the same rope, the only thing they have is the solidarity that if
One falls, one falls all
. At the time, the German DAV (Deutscher Alpenverein)
Made many tests to see the possibilities that were there, going strung
And without assurance, one would stop another if one fell on a slope. And the
Possibilities are 0.01%; Is practically impossible. If the rope is used,
Has to be with all the consequences: putting anchorages in the mountain
. Yes
No, it is better to go unsettled and rely on self-detention. Staying without any
Anchorage in the mountains, not worth at all; Is a false sense of security.
They all go down, with the added risk that a chord will take
Ahead of all who go under. "

The only exception would be the progression in flat glaciers,
Where "you are not putting anchorages; Rope is a preventive measure for not
Fall into the cracks. But in that case, you must have a distance of
Security of about 15 meters
if they are two people and about 10-12 meters if they are
more people". In any case, the glacier chords should not exceed
The four people: "more than four are still crowds, because it is very
Difficult to coordinate when walking together. "

                



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Gord McArthur on His World’s First D16


Gord McArthur is one of Canada’s top winter climbers, with ascents of hard drytool routes around the world.

This summer, he made the first ascent of his monster 85-metre Storm Giant in southeastern B.C. He has given the climb a D16 grade, making it the hardest drytool route in the world.

A number of top international climbers are making their way to try the big line. We touched base with McArthur after his send.

When did you start projecting Storm Giant? I saw the line over three years ago, but it took some time to bolt it. Actually working on it took about two years.

How does it compare to other routes like it? I’ve spent a lot of time on routes around the world, recently this winter on Tom Bollard’s A Line Above the Sky D15 in Italy. It was the longest and hardest in the world at about 50 metres. It’s an amazing route. Storm Giant is around 30 metres longer.

What makes a drytool route difficult? There’s a bunch of different variables, but mostly the length, angle and difficulty of moves, like how powerful and technical.

What was your training like? It was very specific with a lot of endurance training, which is just time spent on tools. I spent countless hours on the route, working the moves, trying to build the movement into my muscle memory.

What did you do to celebrate? I sat down and drank beer and ate chips with friends. It was a great celebration.

What’s the future of drytooling in Canada? I think drytooling has certainly become more popular, but the future of the sport depends on those who are keen. If there aren’t

What was the determining factor for you to send on that day? I decided to skip a number of quickdraws through the crux. That saved me enough energy to make it through and get to the last rest before the chains. That’s when I knew it was the right day.

How many international climbers are on their way to try it? Top Korean and Russian climber are on their way. It’s always fun to watch people climb your routes.

Click to watch McArthur on Storm Giant below and stay tuned for a longer film.



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They deny the top of Mingma Gyalje to the Broad Peak


Privacy Policy
– Tuesday, August 29, 2017 – Updated at 12:30 p.m.

About three weeks ago, in early August, we reported
Of the ascent of Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and nine companions to the summit of Broad Peak (8,051 m). A
Top doubly celebrated by the fact of coming after the K2 (8,611
M), that the same protagonists had trodden a week before for the first time
In three years.

Already in that first news on the ascent to Broad
Peak
Elevation reported the discrepancies between GPS readings of John
Snorri Sigurjónsson
-Indianese and member of the expedition of Mingma Gyalje- y
The ones he had published Òscar Cadiach a few weeks earlier. Those data
Pointed out that the Nepalese guide group might have stayed on the front
(8,030 m), without traversing the final section of the crest summit to the summit
Principal.

At the time, however, there were no other available
Data or evidence to determine the veracity of the summit. There have been
Wait a few weeks until experts like Eberhard Jurgalski will analyze with
Detail other elements as the photographs from above.

Fredrik Sträng brings all the facts of what happened

The early summit team of
August in Broad Peak was formed by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa other four
Nepali sherpas ( Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, Tsering Pemba Sherpa, Mingma Nuru Sherpa
And Ngima Norbu Sherpa
), the Chinese mountaineers Liu Yong Zhong and Dong Hongjuan the
Pakistani Ali Raza Icelandic John Snorri Sigurjónsson and the Swedish adventurer
Fredrik Sträng . The latter – officially not part of the same
Last week of his previous opinion of
Made summit. He announced it with a reasoned text in his social networks:

The reason why
Quit my claim [de haber hecho cumbre en el Broad Peak] is that no longer
I am 100% sure if we reach the main summit or not
. When we
(5 Sherpas, 1 Pakistani and 3 clients of the Mingma Sherpa team and I) "we did
Summit " there was a blizzard of snow, low visibility and treacherous terrain.

"Ali Raza, who had been on the top three times, claimed that we were at the summit"

Immediately le
I asked Ali Raza at the "summit", "Is this the summit?" Ali had been in
The main summit a week before our attempt and had made summit two
Times before. He should know where the main summit is and
I do not see why I should lie about whether we were at the wrong summit. When
I asked him for the third time "is this really the summit?" Answered
Irritated that "yes!". I looked around, I was confused, there was
I studied the route many times (I even did 3 summit attempts in 2012) but
At that altitude and in that snow blizzard he simply did not recognize her in the
Photos I had seen. But I also felt repressed by Ali Raza and others
Members who were fully convinced that this was the right place.
For those who have not been to Broad Peak I would like to inform you that
The summit is complicated, above all, in a snowstorm.

Eberhard Jurgalski [19459109] Thus contrasted the information the documentalist

The altimeter of Nima Sherpa
It showed 8.047 m
so should this be? When I got home, the
Investigator Eberhard Jurgalski contacted the expedition leader Mingma Sherpa
and with me asking about our videos of the summit . I had long conversations
With Eberhard, we sent images by email and started a cross-sectional investigation.
Our photos of the summit with other photos of the summit. Something was not right.
The majority of our group was still in Pakistan with a very Internet
Slow, so it was difficult to analyze the material as we simply could not
send it. Finally we get the GPS coordinates of John Snorri Sigurjónsson
who carried oxygen with us the Broad Peak and the GPS showed 8,030.89 m
(Probably 17 m below the summit). Check position twice
Of the GPS coordinates and do not match the main summit. Something was
Clearly bad, but we also know that GPS sometimes does not work very well and,
For example, when John made summit in K2 with oxygen in the Mingma group
A week earlier, the GPS did not show the correct altitude at the summit of K2. In
Its place showed around 8,600 m (about 11 meters from the summit) so the
GPS alone could not verify our true position.

We went further and
We began to compare the videos of the summit of for example the Turkish Tunc Findik ,
Who had been at the main summit of Broad Peak a week before
Our attempt [en compañía de Òscar Cadiach] and when we zoomed the images (remember that our video
Of the summit is in full snowstorm so this was a hard job)
It seemed to me and also to Eberhard that they did not match 100%.

"I'm not 100% sure
Of the main summit despite the fact that Ali Raza is 100% sure, that
The Nima Sherpa altimeter will show 8,047 m … "

A summit is when
There is nothing more up, just down, there is snowstorm or not.

I'm not 100% sure
Of the main summit despite the fact that Ali Raza is 100% sure, that
The Nima Sherpa altimeter will show 8.047 m and the approval of other climbers
Who have seen our photos and videos. The leader of the expedition Mingma Sherpa
Is 100% sure that we reached the main summit, I did not. Therefore, in
All this confusion I prefer to live with the words of the Dalai Lama that guide me
In life "if there is doubt then there is no doubt" rather than pretend
Something that is questionable. It's sad because if we do not reach the summit
Principal, our group had the strength and time on their side to have
Was able to reach the main summit and go back down
.

Other
No-tops of Mingma Gyalje Sherpa

This was not the first time that a
Up to Mingma Gyalje Sherpa . For one reason or another, Nepalese has
More of an incident with certain similarities to this one, and even this same year
2017 has been forced to rectify on occasion.

The track record of Mingma Gyalje Sherpa included, when it started
The year 2017, the ascension to seven principal eighteen, six of them without oxygen.
However, the documentary filmmaker of the eighties Eberhard Jurgalski puts in doubt
Two of them, Lhotse and Cho Oyu of which he has never provided evidence
any. According to Alan Arnette in his blog citing the same protagonist, in
That time Mingma Gyalje did not yet intend to complete the list
Of the Fourteen and therefore did not bother to prove with such evidence
Ascensions. Today, I would be making arrangements to receive the
Respective summit certificates of the Nepalese authorities

In this 2017, the activity of Mingma Gyalje Sherpa in the
High mountains has been frantic. He has made expeditions to Dhaulagiri,
Makalu, Nanga Parbat, K2 and Broad Peak
and in all these peaks has made summit …
Or almost. In fact, he claims to have climbed all of them except Nanga Parbat ,
Where he admits that they were wrong of the top and did not ascend the main.

                



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The New DMM Dragon 7 and 8 are Big Cams


The biggest announcement (literally) from DMM this year is the addition of two large siblings to the Dragon Cam family, a size 7 and 8.

These are for those difficult-to-protect wide cracks up to 195 mm (7.5 inches). They share the same standout features as the smaller Dragons, including the hot forged lobes and spindle block with a complex, yet lightweight design.

If you’re one of those folks who like offwidths, it’s always good to have the right sized protection. These aren’t the most revolutionary pieces of new gear, but they do employ DMM’s cutting edge cam design, which means more bite and durability.

We love the smaller versions of the Dragons and always have them on our rack. Hopefully we won’t find ourselves in too many places where we need a number 7 or 8, but we can’t wait to try them out. Look for them in spring 2018.



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Watch Yann Gauthier Send New 5.13 in Quebec


Yann Gauthier has made the first ascent of a new 5.13 called L’arrogance du grimpeur at Mont Bédard near the town of Chibougamau.

The climbing at Mont Bédard was mostly developed in the past few years and the routes range from 5.7 to 5.13 and up to 30 metres.

Gauthier has established many of the lines, including bolted climbs like Yin and Yann 5.12, P38 Traverse 5.12, Time is Luck 5.12, and trad climbs like Chibougamau with love 5.10 and Golden Goose 5.9. Full topo here.

Four Top Quebec 5.13s
Energie Potentielle 5.13a at Champlain
Ulysee 5.13a at Baldy
Le Toit de Ben 5.13a at Val-David
The Beast 5.13b at Eardley Escarpment



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