– Wednesday, August 30, 2017 – Updated at 1:21 pm
Urko Carmona is one of the characters of the world of climbing
That less time loses. He lives on the road, sleeps in his van and goes from
Climbing area in climbing area. In the last semester, only one
Couple of weeks at home in Alicante . As it could not be otherwise, it has
Took all the juice to a summer of 2017 that still has weeks of life.
Just a couple of days ago he exclaimed his social networks that
Was: "Giving it all! 7c + onsight! ". It is the hardest climbing line in sight of
His trajectory, realized during the stage corresponding to Cantabria of his
It was only the last outstanding achievement of his summer, which began
Before the meteorological station started when it chained late in the
May Evil of loves 8a + in Rodellar . A
Which had been resisted for years,
Cusp of the hardest he has ever done .
Later, during the month of July, he participated in a pair
Of international climbing tests in Austria and France and obtained in
Briançon his eighth victory in an IFSC parachute competition (two
World Championships in 2012 and 2013, a test of the World Cup of Blder
2013 and four of the World Cup of Difficulty in 2015, 2016 and 2017.
We talked to him to give us some details about his
"I have come to do 8a to the second hit, but in view the maximum is
7c + "
7c + is the grade
Maximum you've done in sight?
Yes, yes. I have come to do 8a to the second hit, but in view the maximum is
It's a step
Important … I do not know if there will be another scaler with this degree …
I sure do. Maybe not in sight, but it depends on the way. And you already
I say, I've done 8a to the second hit here at La Hermida and a flood has started
important. It has begun to rain, to squeeze the jets and look, we abort
Mission and we are going down, I have to go to Italy.
The 7c +, what was it like?
You know the name of the track?
It was a pretty big crash, with a lot of knee tricks and stories.
I was lucky to see them, and some were good enough. Some rests, which
That was quite important, finding rest well. And the rest of the
Way, continuity and endure much. I took the piece of the
Exit, went to plate and as you did not see the grips well, you went fast.
"I did not imagine doing it in sight, but I was going to fight hard and see until
Where it arrived "
So, that neither
Was the ideal way to make a sight?
Power, you can, because it came out. At first I saw her quite a bit and had
Enough movements in which you doubted whether right or left, you see enough
Brands of magnesium … But you have a 8a next door that was the next one to you
I found it very hard compared to 7c +, especially for the
Block of entry, which was fatal. In this I was fortunate that the
Harder movements for people, I could get quite comfortable … And the
Luck I've had.
Did you imagine that the
Imagine me, no, but I did tell myself that I was going to fight her to the fullest and see until
Where it arrived.
It's important to you
That the routes meet certain requirements. Which side is better for you than
It depends on what the movements are like, but it usually suits me better than
Be to the right, to make the dynamics and so on. In crossings, when they are
Of inverted and all that, to the right I think that I come a little worse. Depends on
How the song is and depends on how the movement is, it comes best to me
Side than the other. It varies so much …
"On my condition, I have to block many times from bad things and stay at my feet
Flown almost always "
What's the most
Difficult to climb with one leg?
Often the subject of finding the good foot that will help you. Many times the
Tracks have feet to the right or left, but they are not helping you at all.
I need them to be centered and if not then I have to be constantly
Making adhesions … and also I have to rely very much on the only foot that
Does that force you to
To make many dynamic movements?
And having to block many times of very bad things and stay at your feet
Flown almost always.
I imagine the best
Of course, very collapsed tracks in which the feet play a minor role, and not
Are as important as on the plates. On the plates the problem is that many
Sometimes feet rise in adherence.
How was your
Summer so far?
Pretty quiet, really. I was doing some long way with my
Girl on a cliff in Cala Montgó (Girona). It was great because it leaves you
The boat, it leaves and there you stay; And the only way you have to get out is
Climbing And above the rock was damp, wet, dripping … The way
We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. I got it all released. There was some step that was not
Very, very difficult, but the subject of the wet complicated enough
" Evil of love 8a + was my project for two or
Three years "
You started there
summer. How did you follow?
Yes, in Catalonia. Then I went to Panticosa, the Tena valley, then
I went to the side of Jaca where it was also good and I made a 7c + that I tried
One day and I left the next day – and that I thought I was not going to leave
Nor praying all he knew. Quite well, the truth is that I am very
Happy … Well, I started the season in chains Evil of love [8a+, Rodellar]my project since two years ago or
three years. Last year I was testing it all the time I was in
Rodellar and had already tried it three years before. Many times, with this type of
Projects finish leaving them by another way, but look, this year has come out
Fast, as in four pegs.
Ibas with desire …
Yes, yes, with much desire. Then I also made another 8a + in the Cave of
Hunters, there in Rodellar … I'm very happy this summer, that I almost
Has gone to 8a per month. Although I have few accounts and if I do not
Notebook I forget, but I started the preseason in Margalef with Doctor Feelgood . Was like the
Training for preseason. And since then I've been doing one or two
8a's per month.
Right now, how many
8a's will you have in total?
I do not know, but there are 8a's that do seem 8a's to me and others to me
They look like 8b's or more. The graduations with me are very different.
Your degree and that of the
Bipeds have nothing to do, right?
What's up. I can do a 7b and then go to another 7b next and have nothing to
Which is the most
Hard that you have done for you?
It can be some 7c + and everything … Although the Evil
Of love cost me a lot. For me, it has been the hardest route I've ever
"Rodellar is still my favorite zone"
How are you Bad of love ? Are almost 40 meters of travel in which you are going from one block to another
Block and never stop. You have a good rest before the last block,
But all the way is very maintained; You can not even breathe. Then there is a knee
Quite good, but I can not do it.
Your favorite zone is
Yes, Rodellar is still my favorite zone at the moment
But it is an area in
The one that has to walk, and for you …
Yes, you have to walk a lot, but I like it. In the end you get used to it and
Also serves as a warm-up.
You never run out of
Fortunately not. There are days that cost you more or it costs you less. There are days that
You arrive at a sector to climb much in sight and all the entrances are in plate
Or you screw a lot, and you sweat to make a 7a or 7b … but hey, do not stop
Much and change of sector.
Been to escalando
Much in sight?
Yes, the preparation for the competitions is climbing in sight and, as I say
I, archiving movements in the brain muscle.
Also, you have also
Won a test of the World Cup during the summer …
Yes, but to see what happens, because they have annulled a test of the World Cup
And not to cancel the World Cup now. Because I think the minimum had
Than four cups and one outside Europe, which is in India and now
We will see if it can be done, because we are few and a trip to India is not
"I would like to do some long way with Alfredo García before
Do you have it now
No, we'll keep looking. I would like to do one before the
Winter with Alfredo García. Maybe some long way, either in Naranjo
Or where there is good weather.
Last year already
Did you do something like that?
Yes, last year I was with Juan Antonio, but this year he dedicates a
Little more to the family and is more detached from competition and climbing.
How long have you been
Been on the road this year?
Well enough. I went in February, I spent in Alicante two weeks and I went back to
What sentences do you have
"Strength and honor" and "Pure life". I like them very much. In addition to our motto " by the face by the face", which always
I say that even if there is nothing, you want to climb we have and even for the face
We will climb
Sure, because you at
End you survive practically with nothing …
With nothing. Minimum survival. Staying at a colleague's house for a few days,
A good shower and nothing, spend little and live a lot. Simple life.