Marek Holecek opens with Zdenek Hák his new route to the southwest face of the G1


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– Tuesday, August 1, 2017 – Updated at 1:33 pm

The Karakorum pakistani gave news expected yesterday from
Years ago by Himalayan fans. The Czech Marek Holecek got
Finally his goal to reach the top of the Gasherbrum I (8,080 m) through
Of a new route on the southwest face. A goal I was trying for fifth
Time this summer, having accumulated countless hard times in years
Above. He has done it in cordon with his compatriot Zdenek Hák .

Ascension in style
Alpine

Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hák were surprised this year
In the base camp by the presence of a powerful Ukrainian expedition with the
Same objective as yours. However, they were not intimidated and
Sign their plan, waiting for a window of good weather that would allow them
Launch an attack on your line. While the Ukrainians canceled the expedition
When one of its members was found wrong, on July 24 the two Czechs left
The base camp to go to sleep at the foot of the southwest wall of the Gasherbrum
I
.

The wall has had several suitors along the
history. The Slovenians Andrej Stremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik opened a route in
1977 beginning on the southwest face as a gateway to the edge
southwest. The Poles Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojciech Kurtyka faced the
Southwest face in 1983, although in the final stretch they drifted southwards and linked
With the original American route of 1958. Also Valeri Babanov and Victor
Afanasieff
drew a new itinerary on the southwest wall, although in its
Section on the left. The direct ascent of more than 3,000 meters
Slope of the southwest face was still pending.

And the Czechs have done it in alpine style, in an effort
Of six days,
that took them to step on the summit on Sunday, July 30. The
Course of the ascension has not been simple
. The first two days, the
Tuesday 25 and Wednesday, July 26, progressed as planned: first
Climbed to 6,800 m, under an unexpected snowfall; And then continued
Until the 7.400 m, after surpassing the first steps of mixed.

The next step in the plan of attack was to achieve
7,900 m on the third day, but reality began to prevail differently.
They needed another three hard days to reach that height. Before, they had
That sail through a sea of ​​snow to the top of a set and solve
Stretches of bad ice
to reach the rock barrier of the 7,700 m

Having overcome that rocky barrier, a
mixed hostile terrain which led them to another rock ledge at 7,880 m . When
Already thought of reaching the summit, they still had to make another bivouac
Unwanted on the edge, just 40 meters from the summit
of Gasherbrum I, at the
Which arrived on July 30.

Five years of
Attempts

The first attempt of Marek Holecek on the southwest face of
Gasherbrum I goes back to 2009 when it was with the experienced Zdenek Hruby
-president of the Czech mountaineering federation. On that occasion, Hruby had
health problems at 7,500 m and Holecek had to strive to achieve
Get him out of there and escape with life.

Recovered from that fright, both returned to the mountain in
2013 with the same objective. However, bad luck was fueled by the
expedition. Zdenek
Hruby
suffered a fall to 6,800 m that precipitated him, according to his companion, thousand
Meters. He left behind a woman, two children and a long list of awards including
Eight ochomiles.

Marek Holecek gave a parenthesis of a year, but returned
To the Hidden Peak in 2015 now accompanied by Tomas Petrecek . Both launched their attempt
On August 7, but the arrival of bad weather surprised them on August 10 to
7,300 m
. Almost a week passed at that height, with temperatures of up to -30ºC
And strong winds
. Finally, they managed to undo the way to the field
Base, where
arrived
Safe and sound on August 18
.

That experience did not discourage Marek Holecek who
Returned to the G1 the following year 2016 although it had to change of companion. This time
Shared expedition with Ondra Mandula and history was repeated, corrected and
Increased. The two climbers were left blocked
For bad weather at 7,700 m
without batteries for the phone or just
Food and fuel. They had left the base camp on 9 August and
Returned to the foot of the mountain until the 22 of August, is
Say, exactly 14 days later.

                



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Russell Brice leaves, Mingma Gyalje consolidates


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– Tuesday, August 1, 2017 – Updated at 09:25 am

Last Friday came the first
Tops in the K2
(8,611 m) in three years. The protagonists were not
Media climbers or characters of great international prestige
. Good is
Certain that in the group was included John Snorri Sigurjónsson the first Icelandic
That reached the highest peak of Pakistan, and also was the Chinese
Zhang Liang who added his eighteenth number, and even Vanessa O'Brien the
First American woman to climb the K2

But the main protagonism was not for them but for
Its leader, the Nepalese Mingma Gyalje Sherpa . He made the decision to
Continue up when the rest of the expeditions were turned around
To the dangerous conditions and the unreliability of forecasts
Meteorological conditions. He and his six Sherpa guides were in charge of opening a footprint
And fix ropes where it was necessary to leave the path of the expedition summit.
Subsequently, the 12 members of the summit group completed the descent
To the base camp
safe and sound.

Who is Mingma
Gyalje Sherpa?

It is not the first time we mentioned in www.desnivel.com to
Mingma Gyalje Sherpa visible head of the Nepalese agency Dreamers Destination .
The first time he came out was in the spring of 2013, when he made summit in Kangchenjunga
(8,586 m) as Sherpa of an Iranian expedition and coincided at the top with Òscar
Cadiach
. At that time, he had already climbed four times to Everest (with
Oxygen) and had made the first ascent of the ChekiGo (6,257 m), which
Shortly after that of BamonGo (6,400 m), both in the Rolwaling Valley .

In fact, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa has distinguished itself from many
Other Nepali guides during their trajectory for having wrought a
Own race In 2015, he made an impressive solo adventure at
Climb the virgin west face of the Chobutse
(6,685 m), in the same valley of the Rolwaling. That activity earned him his
Inclusion in the Big
List of Piolets d'Or of 2016
the list of 56 ascensions that opted to
The world's highest mountaineering award that year.

In recent seasons, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa has highlighted
For guiding the expeditions that premiered at the top: he obtained the first peaks in
Gasherbrum
I
(8,080 m) and the Pakistan eight-thousand in 2016, and also the first
In the Dhaulagiri
(8,167 m) and all eight thousand in the spring of 2017. In his record,
They consist of at least seven ochomiles without oxygen: K2, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Cho
Oyu, Manaslu, Annapurna and Gasherbrum I
.

Russell's Farewell
Brice

The good work of Mingma Gyalje Sherpa has coincided in the
Same K2 base camp with another important piece of news
expedition. In this case, it is Russell Brice one of the most important
Of recent years, who has decided to end a long career of work
Of field to the front of groups in the ochomiles.

In a letter published as a newsletter on the website of
Himalayan Experience, the New Zealander recognized his error of judgment in the K2 this
summer. His expedition did not take advantage of the window of good weather of Friday 28 of
July. The following is the last paragraph of that letter:

"Once again, it seems
That I have made a bad judgment and that we should have stayed on the mountain. I
I came here at the request of my members because they trusted me. I took it
As an honor, but also as a great challenge, to deal with this mountain. He
Failed, it's time for me to leave this game
. I enjoyed the
Experiences along the way, has not given me wealth nor a stable home life,
But I have managed to see many parts of the world and meet many people
Interesting along the way. It's time to hang your guide boots and fit
My personal boots. "

                



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13 Top Toronto Area Climbing Gyms to Visit


While there are many outdoor climbing areas to visit on the weekends around Toronto, finding a place to pull down during the week would be hard without the many quality climbing gyms.

The gyms are spread around the GTA, include new and old walls to climb on and range from short bouldering walls to big lead lines.

Below are 15 climbing gyms in the Toronto area to follow on Instagram and to visit if you’re in the area, looking for a work out or hoping to meet some climbers to get on the rock. (Click to play clips)

Joe Rockheads

Up the Bloc

Boulderz Climbing Centre

Hub Climbing

True North

Basecamp

Toronto Climbing Academy

The Cave

Aspire

Climber’s Rock

Of Rock and Chalk

Rock Oasis

Gravity Climbing Gym



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