– Tuesday, August 1, 2017 – Updated at 1:33 pm
The Karakorum pakistani gave news expected yesterday from
Years ago by Himalayan fans. The Czech Marek Holecek got
Finally his goal to reach the top of the Gasherbrum I (8,080 m) through
Of a new route on the southwest face. A goal I was trying for fifth
Time this summer, having accumulated countless hard times in years
Above. He has done it in cordon with his compatriot Zdenek Hák .
Ascension in style
Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hák were surprised this year
In the base camp by the presence of a powerful Ukrainian expedition with the
Same objective as yours. However, they were not intimidated and
Sign their plan, waiting for a window of good weather that would allow them
Launch an attack on your line. While the Ukrainians canceled the expedition
When one of its members was found wrong, on July 24 the two Czechs left
The base camp to go to sleep at the foot of the southwest wall of the Gasherbrum
The wall has had several suitors along the
history. The Slovenians Andrej Stremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik opened a route in
1977 beginning on the southwest face as a gateway to the edge
southwest. The Poles Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojciech Kurtyka faced the
Southwest face in 1983, although in the final stretch they drifted southwards and linked
With the original American route of 1958. Also Valeri Babanov and Victor
Afanasieff drew a new itinerary on the southwest wall, although in its
Section on the left. The direct ascent of more than 3,000 meters
Slope of the southwest face was still pending.
And the Czechs have done it in alpine style, in an effort
Of six days, that took them to step on the summit on Sunday, July 30. The
Course of the ascension has not been simple . The first two days, the
Tuesday 25 and Wednesday, July 26, progressed as planned: first
Climbed to 6,800 m, under an unexpected snowfall; And then continued
Until the 7.400 m, after surpassing the first steps of mixed.
The next step in the plan of attack was to achieve
7,900 m on the third day, but reality began to prevail differently.
They needed another three hard days to reach that height. Before, they had
That sail through a sea of snow to the top of a set and solve
Stretches of bad ice to reach the rock barrier of the 7,700 m
Having overcome that rocky barrier, a
mixed hostile terrain which led them to another rock ledge at 7,880 m . When
Already thought of reaching the summit, they still had to make another bivouac
Unwanted on the edge, just 40 meters from the summit of Gasherbrum I, at the
Which arrived on July 30.
Five years of
The first attempt of Marek Holecek on the southwest face of
Gasherbrum I goes back to 2009 when it was with the experienced Zdenek Hruby
-president of the Czech mountaineering federation. On that occasion, Hruby had
health problems at 7,500 m and Holecek had to strive to achieve
Get him out of there and escape with life.
Recovered from that fright, both returned to the mountain in
2013 with the same objective. However, bad luck was fueled by the
Hruby suffered a fall to 6,800 m that precipitated him, according to his companion, thousand
Meters. He left behind a woman, two children and a long list of awards including
Marek Holecek gave a parenthesis of a year, but returned
To the Hidden Peak in 2015 now accompanied by Tomas Petrecek . Both launched their attempt
On August 7, but the arrival of bad weather surprised them on August 10 to
7,300 m . Almost a week passed at that height, with temperatures of up to -30ºC
And strong winds . Finally, they managed to undo the way to the field
Base, where arrived
Safe and sound on August 18 .
That experience did not discourage Marek Holecek who
Returned to the G1 the following year 2016 although it had to change of companion. This time
Shared expedition with Ondra Mandula and history was repeated, corrected and
Increased. The two climbers were left blocked
For bad weather at 7,700 m without batteries for the phone or just
Food and fuel. They had left the base camp on 9 August and
Returned to the foot of the mountain until the 22 of August, is
Say, exactly 14 days later.