COAST MOUNTAINS (CANADA)
The Scottish and the German open Game of Thrones (1,250 m, ED2, 6a) in
An impressive slope of this mountain of 3,572 m of the Coast Mountains
(British Columbia, Canada).
– Thursday, August 31, 2017 – Updated at 12: 03h
Micha Rinn, on the crest of the Monarch Mountain (Photo: Simon Richardson)
This story began at the end of century XX, when Simon
Richardson first climbed the Waddington (4,019 m), the highest peak of
The Coast Mountain of British Columbia (western Canada). About 70 km more to
North, stood alone the figure of the second summit of this mountain range,
The Monarch Mountain (3,572 m).
That peak had been first scaled in 1936, but
No one had done it for its most impressive slope, the southwest face.
In fact, little was known of that wall until 2007, when the pilot and photographer
John Scurlock shared on the internet a large series of photographs
That was the trigger for several expeditions to perform
Attempts, which were met with the usual bad weather of the area and with the problems
Logistics derived from their remoteness. This summer, came the turn of Simon
Richardson who allied with Micha Rinn to carry out his own attempt.
Three days on the wall
The Scotsman and the German moved by helicopter to the
Coast Mountains on July 28th. Once there, it took a few days to
Analyze the wall before launching to climb its compact volcanic rock . Before
They, a wall of 1,250 meters of unevenness divided into three sections,
Marked respectively by two spurs and one edge. A wall that did not give
Option to withdrawal once exceeded approximately its midpoint.
On August 4 they began an ascent that would keep them
During three days on that slope. They had to climb a total of 32 long
of rope, in addition to other 400 meters simpler in assembly . They found
Some technical difficulties up to 5.10a (6a) with difficult stretches
Protection, especially in the upper part, where the rock is more solid.
They made the descent through the western face route more affordable and open
In 1953, in the second absolute ascent of the Monarch Mountain .
and they opted for one
ED2 grade proposal. In general, they compare the itinerary with the Ram Walker to the Great Jorasses ,
But with a higher level of exposure and an extra dose of isolation.