571 m in the Kjerag


Isaac Fernández / DESNIVEL
– Friday, July 28, 2017 – Updated at 12:00

Carlos Torija Muñoz 33 years old, lives in Hoyo de Manzanares ,
A village in the sierra of Madrid, although it spends half a life between the Pyrenees and
Trips to jump. In winter, it is ski instructor in Baqueira Beret and
In addition he earns his living as sponsored by Dream Walker, a project of jumps
With rope born in Poland and based on controlled free fall that
I practiced Dan
Osman
in Yosemite 20 years ago (died in an attempt to leap about 305 m)

" I've always been very restless and athletic this is in addition to my
Interest in experiencing new sensations has led me to practice everything
Type of sports: climbing, slackline-highline, diving, parachuting, rope jump .
The climbing, the slackline and highline with which I started, have
Been the basis of my mental training, very important in this type of
Sports ", explains Carlos Torija .

First tried the rope jump by the hand of
Dream Walker. It was an "experience that marked a
An after in my life
and since then I have not stopped jumping. When
You face your fears and you win you feel unstoppable and everything
That you have seen from afar and with what you have dreamed of
Suddenly becomes tangible and within reach of your hand. "

Last July 6, all that trajectory crystallized in a
jump with record rope in Kjerag (Norway). After a month of
Expedition, that day made a jump of 571 meters of total fall and 424 meters
Of free fall
. Nearly 100 meters more than total fall than the previous record

"I've been doing rope jump for over 4 years"

We talked to Carlos to tell us the details of a
Little-known and scary activity with just watching the videos.

When did you start to
To practice this modality?
I've been doing rope jump for over 4 years.
Dream Walker. I started with small jumps and little by little – training and doing
Skydiving – I increased my height, making bigger jumps. A jump
Of these characteristics requires a lot of preparation and training time.
For this, I combined jumps with ropes, with airplane and wind tunnel. Fly
With strings is not easy, and as you increase the height they become more
dangerous. After the first 4 seconds, the air attached to the speed is
Makes it a very important factor to take into account. The strength and
Resistance you need to deal with requires great control and
Concentration, since every movement of the body has an effect. This
Difficulty, you have to add the many meters of rope that fly with you.

I am currently a sponsored professional by Dream Walker and,
Thanks to that, it is possible for me to train everything I need.

"Since I was little, Dan Osman was a referent for me"

Who was for you
Dan Osman?
Ever since I was little, it was a benchmark for me. The climbing
Has always been very present in my life and later
The rope jump arrived without looking for it. I was hallucinating watching the videos of
The jumps he made in Yosemite in the 90's and his solo climbs
integral; He had a privileged mind. He was a pioneer in the rope jump, something that
Should not have been simple since, as I mentioned earlier, the assembly
That entail is complex and, above all, there are many small details
Important to keep in mind for everything to work properly.
He was the first to develop and experience this kind of
Jumps and unfortunately died in one of them.

What other jumps

I jumped in the canyon of Verdon (France), in the 2nd edition of Dream
Walker. In the paradisiacal Navagio Beach or Shipwreck Beach in Zakynthos (Greece),
During the 3rd edition of Dream Walker. On the cliff of Matera Basilicata (Italy),
In the 5th edition of Dream Walker. At the Princess Tower in Dubai, the project
The world's largest and most difficult, together with Redbull and Skydive Dubai,
Part of the 6th edition of Dream Walker; A skyscraper 414 meters high
In which we used more than 13 kilometers of rope and we mounted two zip-lines and
Two jumping systems for combined jumps, base jumps and rope jump.
Also at the Hotel Bali in Benidorm in the 7th edition of Dream Walker. In
Poland, in the Dream Tower of 222 meters, a fixed point of jumps and one of my
Training places. But undoubtedly, that of Kjerag in Norway, has been the
Jump bigger and harder than I have done being the 10th edition of Dream Walker.

"The assembly of the system to jump is a rather long process and
Complicated "

How do you plan a jump
Of these characteristics?
The person in charge of the planning of the jumps is Tomasz Zielinski, the
Director and founder of the Dream Walker project. He has a lot of experience and
A bright head.

First, it is necessary to visit the area, record it with
Dron and measure distances with laser to be able to analyze everything
Carefully and know exactly what you will need and if possible
the jump. Then the
Permits to carry out the project. Jump points that we usually choose
Are points famous for the BASE jump. If you can do BASE, you can skip
With ropes, as long as the zone allows the assembly of the system. Is a
Rather long and complicated process.

After the jump, depending on the chosen enclave, or you get off
With the ropes to the ground or you get up again. In the rope jump you can
Achieve more free fall seconds and adjust more the meters that separate you from the
Ground, since you do not need to open parachutes. On the other hand, it is safer
That the BASE jump and at the same time is a very good training if your goal is
Get to do BASE jump. With the rope jump, you can safely train
Exits or train acrobatic jumps and one of the most important things is that
Allows a large number of jumps in a single day, which
Intensive training, well oriented to the BASE leap or to perfect the
Rope jump technique.

What leap did I have until
Now the world record?
The previous world record had a team of Russians who made a
Jump of 392 meters of free fall and 486 meters of total fall. It was carried out
On the Siduhe Bridge, located in China, in 2015.

"The rope jump is a team sport"

What are the
Main difficulties and risks of this practice?
The rope jump is a team sport. Assembly and control
Of the complex system of ropes and platform is of vital importance.
Therefore, it is very important to have the best professionals at your side, because
It is they who make the jump possible. The jumper – I in this case –
It's just one more piece of gear.

It is a sport accessible to all types of people who
Have a previous training, and the
Exceed their capabilities. The longest jumps in free fall mean
Greater difficulty and require extensive experience and a high technical level.

Each site is different and the system must be adapted
To the characteristics of the place. It is important to have a great capacity of
Vision, planning and be prepared for the resolution of unforeseen
Constant. To the last detail it counts, and all this is acquired from
The experience, based on developing different projects in enclaves
Different. Thus each expedition brings you new knowledge.

In the case of Norway, we were not clear about the viability of
Project of the record until we were close to getting it. The conditions
Wind, water, snow and low temperatures
For days delayed the assembly and preparation of equipment and system.
We only had a month to do it and the rains did not stop; We must have
Waiting for a window of good conditions to start
Tests.

We live camped at the top a few feet from the wall.
We only had 5 days of truce in the whole month. When we finished assembling all
Systems and made the first test jump, we all thought it would be almost
Impossible to beat the record given the proximity of the wall to the vertical of the
Ropes The problem was the existence of a protrusion of almost 20 meters to 300
Meters in the vertical, which was necessary to do track a position that you adopt with the body to advance towards
Necessary to get around that first obstacle. He was wearing a tracksuit, a special suit for power
Fly greater distance. Another difficulty was the pendulum
Finish the free fall and play the ropes, this would move you with
Speed ​​towards the wall with the risk of impacting against it. The effect of
Pendulum is similar to swinging a swing, when the fall is over
Free and the ropes to which you are connected come into play. If you want
Avoid rocking instead of pushing it, drop it from the vertical
Thus minimizing anteroposterior movement. That's why we had to break
All the schemes and fly towards the vertical of the ropes very close to the
Wall helping me with a reference and when jumping I concentrated on flying towards
It was very difficult because at the same time she had to control the angle and
Speed ​​since it was possible to pass the reference and if that happened later
He would have problems with the pendulum. And on the contrary, if it did not reach the vertical and
I was short, I would also have problems with the pendulum. This is something that does not
It had never been done for the degree of danger since you fly very close to
The strings and the wall.

"In the pre-record jump I touched the wall with my feet … I had
Luck "

Thanks to the window of good weather that lasted 3 days,
We started with the tests. I did about 20 jumps in those 3 days. The last
4 jumps of the second day were decisive for the record as we started to
Add 25 meters more to each jump. Once the jump was over,
That the pendulum was minimal, that there was no risk of colliding with the wall, and
At the time, we analyzed the projections of this one to see if it was possible to insert still
More meters of rope. In the third jump we decided to add 50 meters more, this
It was the ninth jump of the day and I deviated a little from the line towards the
Left, which caused that during the pendulum it would end up touching the wall with
the feet. It was quite soft but I was lucky not to hit a ledge
Which was close to me. That was the first record jump but the GPS battery
Was exhausted with the cold, so we did not have exact reading of the jump.

The next day the plan was to make the last jump and record
Definitive adding 25 meters more. It was a difficult night and we were all
Quite nervous and tense given what had happened in the last jump. Up to date
Following at 9 in the morning I made the last jump well rested and very
Concentrated on making the perfect line to avoid the pendulum and collide again
against the wall. The jump was perfect, there was almost no pendulum and I stayed
Less than a meter from the wall. At the end of the jump, they were very
Difficult for the whole team since I lived it in first person but my
Colleagues from above did not see me and did not know what was happening until
I began to scream without stopping and I could not contain the tears. Too many
Contained emotions. Each jump, with more meters of rope, was like a jump
new. Psychologically it is quite hard and one has to keep the mind clean and
Very focused on what you have to do. In this jump I made a total of
571.7 meters, 424.8 meters of free fall and a distance traveled up to the
Vertical of the ropes of 759.4 meters, marks that I still find it hard to believe.

"We already have several projects in mind for next year"

Do you already have others
Projects in mind?
The project Dream Walker, whose objective is to go around the world in 80
Jump points, is a project open to all kinds of people who want
Experience a jump of these characteristics. It is an experience that
Change life.

Norway has been very difficult. We had more than 2,000
Kilos of material and we need a helicopter to raise it to the top of the
Wall where we installed the base camp. It has been very hard to live in
Campaign during a month with difficult climatic conditions.

To this day we have made 10 expeditions with what we
There are many incredible projects, more and more ambitious. We always try
Overcome and go beyond. We have several projects in mind for the year that
Comes

Tomasz Zieliński, director and creator of the Dream project
Walker (without him he would never have tried this jump); Agata Majerczak, her co-founder;
Łukasz Miłuch, who is part of the technical team and also beat in 2013
The first rope jump record of the project, also in Norway; Krzysztof
Sawicki, Łukasz Maziarz and Andrzej Wałasiewicz, all three of the technical team. Without
They would not have been possible. This new world record is from the entire Dream Walker team.

Finally, I want to thank Dream Walker, for having given me
The opportunity to participate in this great project and to have trusted me since
the beginning. Now it's time to train hard to be able to do bigger things.

                

How we can minimize human error

                                



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"We were 24 hours without water"


DEDICATES THE TOP OF ALBERTO ZERAIN

        

The Catalan alpinist has communicated with
His team in Tarragona this morning from the C1 (5,600 m), about to complete
the descent. They spent the night in the C3 after reaching the summit of the last of
Its fourteen ochomiles without oxygen.

        

Privacy Policy
– Friday, July 28, 2017 – Updated at 12:05 p.m.

                

                
                

 

                     Òscar Cadiach

Òscar Cadiach (Photo: Òscar Cadiach)

    

 
        
        

Òscar Cadiach has finally communicated this morning with his
Team in Tarragona to confirm that it was well and that there was almost
Completed the descent from the top of the Broad Peak (8,051 m). This was the
Last mountain that was missing to complete the fourteen ochomiles without oxygen
and accompanied by the Pakistanis Ali Sadpara and Yosuf and the Turkish Tunc
Findik
. It was also scaled yesterday by the Norwegian Kari Dybsjord Røstad and the Pakistani
Amin Ullah .

The longed-for call of Òscar Cadiach has been made since
The field 1 (5,600 m) . Last night, the batteries in your Racetracker device
Exhausted a few meters before reaching the field 3 (7,200 m), where finally
Spent the night after a very long attack of about 22 hours
from C3 to C3.

With the tranquility of being near the base of the
Mountain and after being able to hydrate itself, Òscar Cadiach counted on declarations
To Tarragona Ràdio:

Yesterday was one of the
Happiest days of my life
but also one of the most suffered. I proposed
Do top yes or yes, and the conditions were very hard because I needed water
And I could not get it. They were 24 hours without liquid and that slowed me down a lot,
Especially in the descent. Broad Peak has the peculiarity that you have
That being 10 hours above the area of ​​death because, in addition to arriving
To the top, you have to travel a long way over an edge until you do not
You come to the bamboo cane, which is what we call the true summit.

In addition, he also had an emotional memory for his friend
Alberto Zerain with whom he shared expedition to Broad Peak does a couple of
Years, as well as other expeditions, and that passed away in the edge Mazeno of Nanga
Parbat a few weeks ago:

Sufrí very cold
During all the ascent
and when arriving at the hill I decided to rise to the top yes or yes.
The wind was incessant both the going and the return and finally this
satisfaction. Evidently, my memory was addressed to Alberto Zerain who without
He is going to be very hard to continue making these mountains

According to Òscar Cadiach, his expedition has had much
Luck
to have had the possibility of completing the ascension, because today
Friday has recorded a major time change in the Karakorum

                



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Basque route from the interior, from north to south by an ancestral road


Friday, July 28, 2017 – Updated at 08:00

The tunnel of St. Adrian is, for
Above a geological curiosity, an example of how nature dictated the
Tracing the primitive ways of communication. This natural corridor that
Crosses the mountain range of Aizkorri communicating the hard lands of Gipuzkoa
With the smooth plains of Alava has been used since time immemorial. In the
Middle Ages had to be built the first road, which guided soldiers, travelers,
Merchants and, of course, pilgrims heading for Santiago. The "Mouth of the
Hell "
as it came to be called, became the emblem of a route
Which made the same French Way pale. The south exit of the tunnel
Of San Adrián is made by a pointed arch door. The tunnel and the causeway
Which crosses it were declared World Heritage as part of the Roads
Of Santiago del Norte.

Autopista de Castilla

Although it seems strange now, the road that crosses the tunnel of San Adrián was the main route of communication between Castile and France . And it was for
Wish of the Castilian king Alfonso VIII who named it Camino Real and noted it
As main way to connect his kingdom with the rest of the continent without passing
By Navarre. To give a path this category meant that it was under the protection
Of the king, which made it a safe route. This is why
During the Middle Ages, many pilgrims from the south-west of France
On their journey to the tomb of the apostle. Although they would eventually be the
Ports of Roncesvalles and Somport which would take the cat to the water, the
Basque Road of the Interior continued being used of habitual form until well
Entered the eighteenth century. There is the testimony of a French tailor named
Guillaume Manier who wrote in his Voyage d'Espangne ​​ that «this mountain of Saint
Adrian is one of the highest in the world. "

Rescued from oblivion

After a long period of
Oblivion, the Basque Way of the Interior has revived thanks to the
Associations of Friends of the Road and the own Basque Government .

The Basque Way
Of the Interior, also known as Way of Bayona begins in Irún in the
Bridge of Santiago, where it coincides briefly with the North Road of which
Separates to enter in the rural environment until Astigarraga. There at the top
Of a small hill, has been challenging the elements for centuries hermitage of
Santiagomendi
.

The first stage ends in the
villa of Hernani whose old town is qualified as Bien Cultural . TO
From here, the road fits into the valley of the river Oria, a corridor
Natural by which passed the Camino Real, then the national highway,
Later the railway and then the motorway. Of course, being a
Primordial route of communication, here the
Important parts of Gipuzkoa and also its industries, so that the pilgrim
Will arrive until Beasain after crossing a long stretch of houses and polygons,
Although the bidegorris facilitate and make transit completely safe.

To avoid this stretch the
Pilgrim can opt for the variant of Saiatz which separates in Hernani to
Return to join the main branch in Segura after two days of
(19459007) (with its strategic sale of Iturriotz), Bidegoian ,
Beasain Mutiloa and Zerain among other localities. This way is
Infinitely more rural but also more difficult, when crossing a territory
Mountainous with altitudes that reach to the eight hundred meters. On the other hand, the
Pilgrim who opts for this route loses several villas founded by Alfonso X
The Wise person in order to maintain this important route, such as Tolosa and Ordizia ,
Which retain their original medieval paths.

Rural reunion

In Olaberria just outside of
Beasain, shortly after crossing the N-I, the pilgrim who has opted for
The route of the river Oria is rediscovered with a rural landscape that no longer
He will abandon what he has left. In Segura the mountain alternative
Returns to the main route. The pilgrim has before him the imposing Sierra
Of Aizkorri
a wall of more than seven hundred meters of unevenness drilled by
The tunnel of San Adrián

Once passed the "Boca del
Hell "the traveler has overcome the major obstacle of the Basque Road. The route
Descends towards the Llanada Alavesa and the landscape changes radically: the
Steep green hills of Gipuzkoa give way to the extensive fields of
Cereal dotted with small hills. The first Alava village that comes to pass
Is Zalduondo a strategic enclave for merchants and pilgrims from
yesteryear. The stage – the fourth – is finished in Salvatierra a villa
Walled on a hill with two churches fortress.

Salvatierra is distant from Vitoria
Twenty-eight kilometers, a simple stage that the pilgrim will thank later
Of the sacrificed previous day. The road is practically level, and for
There are plenty of reasons to take it easy, like the church of San
Martin of Tours in Gazeo
famous for the paintings that cover his apse. Like
Of an illustrated book, a complex narrative appears before our
Eyes. In the vault, the life of Christ is reflected in different moments:
Childhood, public life, passion and resurrection. Below, in front of the altar, the
Painter locates the Calvary and the Judgment of the souls. In the wall on the right the
Condemned are led to hell. A whole religion lesson that
Remained hidden under a layer of plaster until 1967.

Although not found properly
On the Camino, it is worth to turn three kilometers to Alaitza and enter
In the church of the Assumption . The temple contains enigmatic paintings by
Military theme of the XIV century; Something that one would not expect to see inside a temple.
Between schematic figures of soldiers appear some others that seem
To represent pilgrims.

Also out of the way, but to
A stone's throw, lies the sanctuary of Our Lady of Estíbaliz .
Raised on top of a steep promontory almost in the center of the plain
Of Alava, this set of the eleventh century is a true jewel of Romanesque art
Which protects the landlord of the Alaveses.

The Old Cathedral

Vitoria-Gasteiz capital of
Euskadi, deserves a day of rest "active" because there are many things there
To see, including its Gothic urban center and its Old Cathedral declared
World Heritage as part of the Way of Saint James of the North, together with
The tunnel and the road of San Adrián. The cathedral is the protagonist of the program
Opened by Works
that allows to discover on the ground the process of
Construction of a cathedral. An unforgettable visit.

El Camino leaves behind Vitoria
While advancing along the Llanada Alavesa towards Rioja lands. The day
Ends in La ​​Puebla de Arganzón a population belonging to the County of
Treviño, an island "burgalesa" in the heart of Álava. But before arriving at
Wander around its interesting old town with an old
Hospital of pilgrims, the walker has to overcome the "small" obstacle
That offer the Montes de Vitoria.

In the small village of Estavillo ,
Once again in the territory of Alava, the pilgrim has to decide for one of the
Two alternatives offered by the Camino: or go to Miranda del Ebro and
Connect, in five stages, with the French Way in Burgos, or continue towards
The south by Berantevilla Zambrana and Salinillas de Buradón the last population
Alava The Camino does not enter the historical center but it is worth taking
A break and access through the north gate of the wall to discover this
location. A short but intense ascent to the Lobera gate
Between the traveler and Briñas, the first
meeting. This town has no services for the pilgrim who is to continue
Crossing the Ebro by a nice medieval bridge to go to Haro, about
Four kilometers, which has a hostel of pilgrims. Santo Domingo de
La Calzada
where the pilgrims of all times linked with the Camino
French to continue his journey towards the tomb of the Apostle, is only twenty
Kilometers.

                

We travel to change, not of place, but of ideas

                                

Restless vascones

Travel stories of Basque and Navarrese writers

«We travel to change, not of place, but of ideas». This phrase of the French philosopher Hippolyte Taine perfectly defines the spirit of Restless Basques a firm literary gestation gestated with a desire only solidarity. In this choral work the travelers' stories of the most distinguished specialists of the Basque Country and Navarre are gathered for the first time. The result is a forceful piece in which nothing is missing: humor, tragedy, adventure …
                                



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The 14 ochomiles without oxygen of Òscar Cadiach


Privacy Policy
– Thursday, July 27, 2017 – Updated at 16: 01h

Òscar
Cadiach
has made it up this morning in Broad Peak the last of
The fourteen ochomiles he had left to climb. His attack on top
Began the dawn of Monday, July 24, when he left the
Base camp and has
Culminated today in the summit, after a last day of ascension of 14 hours. It was, in fact, the third attempt he made, along with Ali Sadpara and Tunc Findik, during this expedition, and the fourth consecutive summer at the Broad Peak base camp.

The
Fourteen-year-old older

The
Cadmach's road to Òscar in the ochomiles has been long and tortuous.
In fact, he did not consider trying to complete the Fourteen until his return from the summit of Manaslu
(8,163 m) in October 2011. At that time it had eight summits
Of more than 8,000 meters and elaborated a plan to ascend
The six that he lacked as quickly as possible. Thus, in 2012
He achieved three summits ( Annapurna and Dhaulagiri in spring, and K2 in
Summer) and in 2013 made another two ( Kangchenjunga and Gasherbrum I ),
Although Broad Peak choked on its 2014, 2015 and 2016 attempts.
Finally, this summer has managed to complete the list.

Summit in the Manaslu was a turning point in his career. And it is
That they had spent more than ten years without having done any
Top of an ochomil, from the Lhotse (8,516 m) of the spring of
2001. Far his first two ochomiles were left, Nanga Parbat
(8,125 m) and Everest (8,848 m) respectively reached in
Summer of 1984 and summer of 1985. In that ascent to Everest,
Carried out in the middle of the monsoon season, Òscar Cadiach
One of his great milestones as a climber, when he realized the first
Climbing in free of the Second Step
(difficulty V + to 8,610 m).

That
Of summits for ten years is one of the explanations of the
A long time that has passed from the first to the last of the
Fourteen cadillacs from Cadiach. In total, 32 years, 11 months and
20 days
nine years more than invested Italian Mario
Panzeri
who until now was the fourteen-year-old who had the longest
He had needed to complete them. In addition, Òscar Cadiach is
64 years the fourteen-year-old older surpassing 58 years
Who had the Polish Piotr Pustelnik when he finished his list in
2010.

20th
Person with 14×8000 without oxygen

Òscar
Cadiach
has ascended all its eight-horns without using oxygen
bottling. In this way, he becomes the 20th person in the world
To do so, and is number 38 on the official list of all
14×8000. It is the second Catalan mountaineer to get it (first without oxygen) and the
Spanish fifth, after Juanito Oiarzabal (1999), Alberto
Iñurrategi
(2002), Edurne Pasaban (2010) and Ferran Latorre (2017). This list does not include
Carlos
Pauner
and Jorge Egocheaga : several witnesses argue that the
Aragon did not reach the top of the Shisha
Pangma
(2012), while the Asturian recognized that there were no
Climbed by few meters to the highest point in K2
(2009).

In
The count by nationalities, the Spanish mountaineers conform
The third largest group of fourteen-masters, only surpassed
By Italians and Koreans, with five each. From behind, Poles and
Kazakhs are three.

The
Fourteen eighths of Cadmach Òscar

This
Is the order in which Òscar Cadiach has ascended the fourteen ochomiles,
And the date when it reached the top of each of them:

1.
Nanga Parbat (8,126 m), August 7, 1984
2. Everest (8,848 m),
28 August 1985 and 17 May 1993
3. Shisha Pangma (8,027
M), 4 October 1993
4. Cho Oyu (8.188 m), 29 September
1996 and 4 May 1997
. Makalu (8,485 m), 19 May
1998
6. Gasherbrum II (8,034 m), 7 July 1999
7. Lhotse
(8,516 m), 23 May 2001
8. Manaslu (8.163 m), October 4
Of 2011
9. Annapurna (8.091 m), May 6, 2012
10.
Dhaulagiri (8,167 m), May 25, 2012
11. K2 (8,611 m), 31
July 2012
12. Kangchenjunga (8,586 m), May 20, 2013
13.
Gasherbrum I (8,080 m), July 29, 2013
14. Broad Peak (8,051
M), July 9, 2017

Current list of
14 ochomiles without oxygen

1. Reinhold Messner (Italy): 1986
2. Erdhard Loretan (Switzerland): 1995
3. Juanito Oiarzabal (Spain): 1999
4. Alberto Iñurrategi (Spain): 2002
5. Ed Viesturs (United States): 2005
6. Silvio Mondinelli (Italy): 2007
7. Iván Vallejo (Ecuador): 2008
8. Denis Urubko (Kazakhstan): 2009
9. Viekka Gustafsson (Finland): 2009
10. João Garcia (Portugal): 2010
11. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (Austria): 2011
12. Maksut Zhumayev (Kazakhstan): 2011
13. Mario Panzeri (Italy): 2012
14. Chang-ho Kim (Korea): 2013
15. Radek Jaros (Czech Republic): 2014
16. Nives Meroi (Italy): 2017
17. Roman Benet (Italy): 2017
18. Peter Hámor (Slovakia): 2017
19. Azim Geychisaz (Iran): 2017
20. Òscar Cadiach (Spain): 2017

                

A novel based on Òscar Cadiach

                                

The camí dels estels

A novel based on Òscar Cadiach

by Eduard Sallent

Samples of the book in PDF: : Free Chapter (586 kb)

L'escriptor i mountaineer Edu Sallent gives a vegas month a report of sentiments of poetry basat in the life of the Vuitmilista Òscar Cadiach. A record that will reveal a trajectory full of vital and sportive experiences, which will be translatable from the ex situ scenarios of the seventh first adventure to Africa, passing through the world, First western climber to trepitjar the cim of Everest pel vessant tibetà, escalant in lliure the mythical Segon Esglaó. In order to finish this vital viatge, mateix Òscar, in the first person, will guide the Magic Line to the cim of the great K2.

A great novella full of conquests esportivas però, sobretot, of human conquests: d'amistat, d'amor, passions i també de pèrdues. Life in your state more pur. L'Òscar Cadiach in the seva essència.

                                



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Picos de Europa proposes to regulate and regulate the sports that are practiced in the protected space


In the document prior to the PRUG

        

The National Park of Picos de Europa proposes to order mountaineering, climbing and sports tests to adapt them to the capacity of reception that has the protected space. The document has included proposals from sports, cultural and neighborhood organizations. It also proposes to create a committee of expert mountaineers that guarantees the practice of sports.

        

Great Spaces
– Thursday, July 27, 2017 – Updated at 10: 28h

                

                
                

 

                     A climber on the summit of Peña Santa, in the western massif of Picos de Europa.

A climber on the summit of Peña Santa, in the western massif of Picos de Europa. (Fernando Calvo)

    

 
        
        



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Keiichiro Korenaga, Anak Verhoeven, Yoshiyuki Ogata and Stasa Gejo shine in the World Games 2017


LAST EDITION?

        

Japanese climbers take the gold
In both men's difficulty and boulder categories, while the Belgian and
The Serbian surprise with their victories in the female category.

        

Privacy Policy
– Thursday, July 27, 2017 – Updated at 09:00

                

                
                

 

                     World Games 2017 in Wroclaw (Poland)

World Games 2017 in Wroclaw (Poland).

    

 
        
        



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Òscar Cadiach makes top in the Broad Peak


COMPLETE THE CATCHES OCHOMILES

        

The tarraconense alpinist has reached the
8,051 m from the summit at 11:30 p.m. (Pakistani time) and thus completes the
Fourteen ochomiles without oxygen

        

Privacy Policy
– Thursday, July 27, 2017 – Updated at 08:27 am

                

                
                

 

                     Image of the Racetracker of Òscar Cadiach on the peak of the Broad Peak

Image of the Racetracker by Òscar Cadiach at the top of the Broad Peak

    

 
        
        



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Video of Seb Bouin rehearsing Move 9b / b + in Flatanger


Norway

        

Some plans of Seb Bouin in "Move", 9b / b +, an open and
Chained by Adam Ondra in Flatanger and waiting for his first
Repetition

        

Wednesday, July 26, 2017 – Updated at 12: 33h

                

                
                

 

                     Seb Bouin in 'Little badder' 9a from Flatanger (Norway)

Seb Bouin in 'Little badder' 9a from Flatanger (Norway) (Col. S. Bouin / Bealplanet)

    

 
        
        



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"Now I want to settle pending accounts"


Isaac Fernández / DESNIVEL
– Wednesday, July 26, 2017 – Updated at 1:45 pm

Chatting with Ferran Latorre is always interesting. The
Last spring, the climber of Vic became the fourth Spanish and
First Catalan in complete
The fourteen ochomiles
after treading the summit of Everest
Using artificial oxygen. Everything is already counted from that expedition. We take advantage
The occasion to coincide with him in Barcelona, ​​on the occasion of event
Overcoming makes us unique
de
The Sea to Summit and Leatherman brands, to have a conversation
More generic about its trajectory and some subjects of always.

We decided to break the ice by asking you to choose a favorite
In each of the issues raised.

"Punta Alta was my first three thousand with 13 years, there began
All "

A mountain of the world
With which you stay.
Punta Alta, my first three thousand. It was the first three thousand I made when
I was 13 years old and for me it's a very special place. Other than that I was lucky
Of which it is a beautiful mountain, a very alpine mountain located in the center of the
Aigüestortes National Park, which is one of the most beautiful places in
planet Earth. I have a very special relationship with this mountain. Maybe it's the
Mountain that I love most of all

I did it with the school, with my classmates and my
Two teachers. And that was where my passion for the mountain was born. In fact, no
Where it was born but where it was consolidated, because when I went down to the shelter, I signed the
Book of jokes: "One day I will climb the Everest". There everything began

"Peter Habeler is the historical person I love the most;
As a reference for me "

You are a person with
A great mountain culture, you know the history of many climbers … With
What myth or idol would you stay?
More than myth, I would say that the historical person that I love more, perhaps it would be
Peter Habeler. He was the first one to climb Everest without oxygen, a great
Climber who was a companion of rope of Reinhold Messner … It has always been
A guy who liked me. Even when I did not know it, I took many
Years in knowing him and in fact very recently I know him.

For me, as a young man it was as a referent. I do not know why. You
I took affection to him. I suppose that by the fact to read his book Victory alone … It is the most myth
Important because it was the first, and in the end the first love is sometimes the
important. Years later, when I met him, everything I imagined was confirmed.
This character: was a great climber and is an excellent person: super
Affable, super friendly, super-open, super-positive, majestic. Further,
He has always been very generous … I suppose the affinities I had with him were
Because he was a little like me: he was as little as I was, he weighed little, he was good
scaler. Sometimes you reflect on those you are like.

"Montserrat has a force that has no other place in the
World "

You comment that Peter
Habeler was a good climber. You have also had times at a great level
Of climbing. With what climbing area would you stay?
Montserrat, and then the Sierra de Prades. I think that Montserrat has a
A force that has no other place in the world. It is a unique, magical, spiritual …
A site that, when you are climbing there, you enter like in another world. Really,
It has a magic that has no other places. Although perhaps as a pleasure
Of scaling is not the best, because I like the calcareous more, but the environment of
Montserrat is unique.

"Thomas Hornbein and his ascent to Everest of 1963 have
Always fascinated "

An ascension

The American ascent to Everest by the Hornbein corridor in 1963.
As you know, some went up the normal route and others opened the western edge
Entering the Hornbein corridor. I do not know … first, because I really like the
place; I think Hornbein is one of the coolest places. Yes me
"A place where you would like a helicopter to
I would say "in the Hornbein corridor." And then because the book of
Thomas Hornbein, Everest West Ridge me
charm. In him it is seen that Thomas Hornbein is more than a climber: a
Very sensitive person. It's a free I always have with me and that's why
Ascension has fascinated me and the character as well.

With this answer me
You steal the next question: A mountain book? Would this be or is there any
Other?
Yes, I would say it would be West Ridge ,
But I want to explain why. As a mountain book, it is not a book
Incredible, because it is directly an account of what happened, but it is a book
Which contains many historical quotes from Mallory, by Mummery … It is a very
Sensitive, has good photographs and many poems too, from poets
Anglo-Saxons. It has that special point, to have that counterpoint of having
Many quotations that I have used a lot for my writings and in my ascensions.

A moment
Especially beautiful lived in the mountains?
I would tell you the summit of the GIV with my colleagues At the edge of the impossible my first ochomil in 1992 in the Shisha
Pangma Central … With only one I can not stay. Too many experiences
As if to stay with only one. Yes I would choose you three: the two I said and the
Annapurna with To the edge … which was very
pretty. And he would also add the summit on Everest, with which everything ends.

The unique moments
In the mountains are for you milestones or rather what you share with colleagues?
I would say that the GIV was both, because it was a great milestone, but
In addition to people I love very much: Tamayo, who is like a brother, Juan
Vallejo, Mikel Zabalza, Alberto Iñurrategi … to make a summit with these … Although
In general, both pass, because in 1992 also … Now I realize
That important summits I have done with very important people in my
lifetime. They coincide both. The first ochomil in the Shisha Pangma also,
With Araceli Segarra and all the people with whom he had climbed and with whom he still
I keep in touch.

I imagine that, in the
Next line, when we talk about a partner in the mountains, you can not
To stay with one either …
No, impossible. I have met many and all the people with whom I have
Shared summits have ended up being practically like siblings. And it is a
Very long list, in addition.

Your career has
Been too long. You said that your first ochomil was in 1992 and have already
25 years … A difficult moment of all these years?
When Xavi Lamas died in 1995, in an accident that he had with an avalanche and that
We live very close because it almost hooked us, maybe it's the moment
harder. In Everest, although it was not properly in Everest but in a
Up close acclimatizing for Everest, the Changzeng. Another tough time was
When I had an accident at the Annapurna and I broke and the cruciate ligament. Y
Later also the death of Miguel Angel Perez in the K2, that also was very
Hard, because it seemed that the expedition had ended well, but did not end as
I would have wanted.

To finish: now

Making mountaineering and climbing, I will continue doing it my whole life, and now I will do it.
That I would like to finish pending bills: open a route to an ochomil,
That we will see if we will go to Nanga Parbat; Climb to Everest without oxygen; climb
The Cerro Torre; The north face of the Eiger … Do some ascents of these
To stay calm

                

How we can minimize human error

                                



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The reservation center of the Circuito del Aneto and Posets is born. Desnivel


BUFF® BETWEEN SHELTERS

        
        

Great Spaces
– Wednesday, July 26, 2017 – Updated at 09: 52h

                

                
                

 

                     Milestone on the Pyrenean Trail

Milestone in the Pyrenean Trail.

    

 
        
        



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