Miles Adamson Bags Year of the Snake in Squamish


Miles Adamson has made the third ascent of Year of the Snake 5.13bR in Squamish after a number of days working on it.

The hard line was first climbed climbed by Jeremy Smith in the spring of 2013 and repeated shortly after by Tim Emmett. Watch Emmett take a ground fall on the run-out line below.

Year of the Snake climbs an aesthetic line on the Cacodemon Boulder, which is found on the forest floor at the base of The Chief, close to Squamish.

Adamson’s send comes shortly after being the first to complete the list of 25 best high-ball boulder problems in Sqaumish set out in the local guidebook.

His hard sends include a tick of The Path 5.14R at Back of the Lake in Alberta. Adamson once competed on Team Canada and finished 17th at the Bouldering World Cup in Toronto.



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Russian Ice Competitor Banned for Drug Use


Russian ice climber Pavel Batushev is not allowed to compete for four years. He has been banned by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) after testing positive for meldonium.

The veteran comp climber had to provide a sample in January at the Rabenstein World Cup in Italy, after winning gold in the Men’s Speed event.

Pavel Batushev before winning gold this winter

“An imposed period of suspension of four years from the date of the provisional suspension (March 29, 2017) until March 28, 2021,” the UIAA noted.

“Disqualified results in the competition which produced the positive sample and in all other competitions between this event, the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 in Rabenstein, and the date of the provisional suspension.”

Meldonium was developed in Latvia and added to the banned list on January 1, 2016 because “evidence of its use by athletes with the intention of enhancing performance.” Read the official statement here.



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Urko Carmona and Francisco J. Aguilar, gold in the World Cup of Briançon 2017


Privacy Policy
– Monday, July 31, 2017 – Updated at 16:34 p.m.

The World Cup of Climbing has stopped during the
Last days in the French town of Briançon where they have been disputed in
The categories of paraescalada and climbing difficulty. While the
Spanish team shone in the first place, with two first places and a total
Of four podiums, the leaders of the circuit Romain Desgranges and Janja Garnbret
secured their position with a new victory.

Urko Carmona and Francisco
J. Aguilar, the best

The first test of the World Cup Paraescalada
once again crowned Urko Carmona as the best in the disputed category
Of leg amputees. Both he and Albert Guària and Iván Germán got
Get into the final, after doing top in the two qualifying ways. In the
Final round, Urko was the only one able to chain the route, adjudicating the
Victory ahead of Julien Gasc . Albert Guàrdia stayed in half movement
Of the French, and took the third step of the podium, while Ivan Germán
Ranked in sixth place.

Francisco Javier Aguilar participated this time in the category
Of the visually impaired B2 (partial blindness), because their category B1
(Total blindness) did not have enough participants. He started with doubts in
Although he managed to pass as fifth and
final. There, he had an impeccable performance – focused on the flash by David
Gambús
– and it was raised with a meritorious first place, surpassing the competitive ones
Italian climbers: Matteo Stefani and Giulio Cevenini accompanied him in the
podium. Raúl Simón (6th) and Marc Oller (10th) were the other participants
Spanish in this category.

The other medal for the Spanish delegation was for Ismael
Ewan Sánchez
who managed to get second place in the category
AU-2 (forearm amputees). Finally, mention is also made for Juan Pipo Gil ,
Which was out of the final (it was 6th) in the category RP3.

Romain Desgranges y
Janja Garnbret, a whole train

A couple of days after the paraescalada competition,
It was the turn of the absolute category of difficulty, in which the leaders of
The general classification for both men and women took a step forward
plus. Romain Desgranges and Janja Garnbret added victories that the
In the first place.

For the Slovenian, this is the third triumph in three events,
And is launched towards its second consecutive World Cup title. But not
It was easy for her and she had to work hard. In fact, he reached the final
After having chained the three ways (two of qualifying and the one of
Semifinals), something they also did Anak Verhoeven and Jain Kim . In the round
Definitive, only surpassed the Belgian by a movement of difference and by three to
The Korean.

Also the men's competition was very even, with five
Of the eight finalists with the same exact result in the semifinals. In the
Final, Romain Desgranges showed superior to all and excelled in two
Movements to Sean McColl and in six to Stefano Ghisolfi (curiously, the
Canadian and Italian were the last two classified for the final.)

Classifications

World Cup of
Climbing of Difficulty, Briançon (France)

Men:
1. Romain Desgranges (France): 41
2. Sean McColl (Canada): 39
3. Stefano Ghisolfi (Italy): 35
4. Masahiro Higuchi (Japan): 29
5. Sean Bailey (United States): 28+
6. Marcello Bombardi (Italy): 27
7. Naoki Shimatani (Japan): 22.5
8. Sebastian Halenke (Germany): 13+

Women:
1. Janja Garnbret (Slovenia): 39+
2. Anak Verhoeven (Belgium): 38+
3. Jain Kim (South Korea): 36+
4. Julia Chanourdie (France): 30+
5. Jessica Pilz (Austria): 26+
6. Margo Hayes (United States): 26+
7. Salomé Romain (France): 26+
8. Mine Markovic (Slovenia): 20+

Overall ranking
Provisional World Cup, after test 3/8

Men:
1. Romain Desgranges (France): 255 points
2. Marcello Bombardi (Italy): 163 points
3. Keiichiro Korenaga (Japan): 148 points
4. Domen Skofic (Slovenia): 142 points
5. Stefano Ghisolfi (Italy): 139 points
6. Sean McColl (Canada): 127 points
7. Yuki Hada (Japan): 116 points
8. Sean Bailey (United States): 107 points
9. Jan Hojer (Germany): 86 points
10. Loïc Timmermans (Belgium): 83 points
10. Hannes Puman (Sweden): 83 points

Women:
1. Janja Garnbret (Slovenia): 300 points
2. Anak Verhoeven (Belgium): 210 points
3. Jain Kim (South Korea): 200 points
4. Jessica Pilz (Austria): 153 points
5. Mine Markovic (Slovenia): 146 points
6. Julia Chanourdie (France): 136 points
7. Hannah Schubert (Austria): 85 points
8. Anne-Sophie Koller (Switzerland): 83 points
9. Salomé Romain (France): 79 points
10. Ievgeniia Kazbekova (Ukraine): 69 points

                



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Watch Sean McColl’s First Bouldering Gold in 2013


Sean McColl is one of the world’s most decorated competition climbers and has been at it for more than 15 years.

In this clip by Onbouldering.com, McColl tops the last problem at Slovenian Finals in 2013 for his first Bouldering World Cup gold. The route setting four years ago was much different.

Sean McColl’s Gold Finishes
2002: Male Youth B Lead Youth World Championships
2003: Male Youth A Lead Youth World Championships
2004: Male Youth A Lead Youth World Championships
2006: Male Juniors Speed Youth World Championships
2006: Male Juniors Speed Youth World Championships
2006: North America Championships
2008: North America Championships
2011: Kranj Lead World Cup (first World Cup gold)
2012: Xining Lead World Cup
2012: PanAmerican Championships (x2)
2013: Log-Dragomer Bouldering Word Cup (above video)
2013: Arco Rockmasters Speed
2014: Arco Rockmasters Speed
2015: Congqing Bouldering World Cup
2016: Villars Lead World Cup



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New Granite Big Wall Climbed Near Terrace in B.C.


Deep in the B.C. mountains near Terrace is a sharp looking wall on Split Mountain. Fuzzy images of it have circulated on the internet for years, but no one reported climbing the fine looking big wall.

In 2016, Grant Stewart and Tim Russell made the first ascent of the face via a nearly 500-metre steep granite line in 14 long pitches at 5.11+ A1.

Looking down Split Mountain during their first ascent. Photo Grant Stewart

The two climbers noted that their new route and another 650-metre line up a tributary of the Skeena River are the only big wall lines in the area.

The Split Mountain line was a multi-year project. Russell made a few short trips to the peak with Gary McQuaid and Nick Black to scope the approach and climb the first six pitches.

Then in 2015, Tyler McDivitt and Stewart spent eight days on the wall and climbed to a new high point. The full story on the route will be featured in the October/November issue of Gripped magazine.

Split Mountain in B.C.



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Slovenians Climb Big New Kishtwar Himalaya Lines


Slovenian climbers Ales Cesen, Marko Prezelj and Urban Novak climbed a few big new routes up 6,000-metre+ mountains in Kishtwar Himalaya in alpine style. They were based in the remote Kijaj Nullah Valley.

Novak told Planetmountain.com in an interview, “The Kishtwar region offers some interesting climbing objectives. The Kijaj Nullah valley is not an exception. This whole area has exceptional playground for the modern style of climbing..” Full article here.

Up the west face of the 6,250-metre Arjuna they made the first ascent of All or Nothing, a 1,400-metre M7+ WI5+ A0 which was the second ascent of the peak; the first was in 1983.

Up the 6,038-metre P6013, they climbed made the first ascent of the North Ridge for the second ascent of the mountain after the 1979 first ascent by a number of Polish climbers.

Prezelj had visited the area before with Novak, Manu Pellissier and Hayden Kennedy and made first ascents of other big lines.

On Cerro Kishtwar, they called their new 1,200-metre route Light Before Wisdom 5.11 WI6 M6 A2. Novak noted after here, “After a successful descent from the summit, the view on the wall from below revealed very different conditions.

“We caught the perfect time for climbing, because after we descended, the bottom part of the face had no more ice which had enabled us – in spite of its questionable quality – a successful ascent.”



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Nicole Deuchar Sends New Receiving Rainbows in Squamish


Nicole Deuchar has climbed an aesthetic new line on the Malamute she called Receiving Rainblows 5.11b.

It follows a technical dyke that snakes up the wall left of the classic 35-metre Chasing Rainbows 5.10d. Watch Deuchar on her send below.

Stu Smith spent about eight hours cleaning the dyke for Deuchar so she had a project to work while he continued work on his new and difficult crack.

“Receiving Rainbows finishes with a fun and sharp arête laybacking with polished feet,” said Smith.

The Malamute is a popular west-facing cliff that hides from from street-view and is across the street from the main parking area of The Chief.

About his hard project, Smith said, “Nearly there I can do it just need to summon the demon for the last move.” Watch Smith on his project below, clip to play.



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Sean McColl Gets Silver at Briancon 2017


Sean McColl finished in second place for silver at the IFSC Briancon World Cup, the third Lead World Cup of the year. McColl is fresh off third at The World Games.

After his climb in front of 8,000 spectators, he told the IFSC commentators in an interview, “The bottom was a lot harder than I anticipated, which was good because I like routes that are really hard at the beginning.”

Sean McColl after his silver medal climb. Photo IFSC

On his way up, there was a dyno where McColl nearly fell, but he stuck the big move.

“At the top before I fell, I was really happy because I barely hit that hold, but managed to get my feet up, re-established and get my hand up for a good plus,” said McColl.

When talking about reading the upper crux, McColl said he was expecting a Rose move because he noted, “They always do a Rose move in Briancon.” Watch McColl’s dyno below.

About his hair cut, he said that he told his buddy if he made Finals, then his buddy could cut his hair.

Sean McColl at his high point in Finals. Photo IFSC

Other Canadians who made the trip include: Elan Jonas McRae finished in 25th, Kyle Murdoch in 61st, Becca Frangos in 40th and Elina Avramova in 57th. Watch Finals below.

The first place finishers were Janja Garnbret and Romain Desgranges. This in Garnbret’s third Lead World Cup gold medal of the season and the second for Desgranes. Both are ranked first in the world.

Sean McColl milks a rest. Photo IFSC

The next Lead World Cup will be in Arco at the end of August. For full results here.

Finals Results Female/Male
1. Janja Garnbret / Romain Desgranges
2. Anak Verhoeven / Sean McColl
3. Jain Kim / Stefano Ghisolfi
4. Julia Chanourdie / Masahiro Higuchi
5. Jess Pilz / Sean Baily
6. Margo Hayes / Marcello Bombardi
7. Salome Romain / Naoki Shimatani
8. Mina Markovic / Seb Halenke



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7 Sherpas and their 5 clients, first tops in K2 since 2014


UNDER THE LEADERSHIP OF MINGMA GYALJE

        

The expedition led by Mingma Gyalje
Sherpa has brought to the summit three Chinese climbers, the
British-American Vanessa O'Brien and Icelandic John Snorri Sigurjonsson
In a 16 hour attack to the top with an unreliable meteo.

        

Privacy Policy
– Saturday, July 29, 2017 – Updated at 08:00

                

                
                

 

                     Expedition of Dreamers Destination to K2 2017, in the base field

Expedition of Dreamers Destination to K2 2017, in the base camp (Photo: Dreamers Destination)

    

 
        
        

The K2 (8.611 m) has had a very exciting day. The
Meteorological conditions were not objectively good and the various
Expeditions that had trusted in the window of good weather had to decide on
The C4 if you risk and continue up or turn around and wait for a
More auspicious occasion.

The Swedish Fredrik Sträng and the Polish Andrzej Bargiel were
Among those who decided to get off. The latter had the objective of
Descent of the K2 in skis, after to have skied other ochomiles and wrote in
Their social networks: "After a couple of days in bad weather, snowfall and without
Visibility, finally the sun has left today. There is a small window, but
According to different forecasts, the weather will change again this afternoon.
There simply is not enough time to think about a summit attack.
We have to patiently wait for the conditions to improve … "

In addition to them, a
Important group of Nepali agency Dreamers Destinations, under the leadership
Of Mingma Gyalje Sherpa . In all, there were nine Sherpas and five clients. They
Took the risky decision to go ahead and face an effort
Very hard

In the end, Mingma Gyalje, six other Sherpas, the
British-American Vanessa O'Brien Icelandic John Snorri Sigurjonsson
and the Chinese Azong, Zhang Liang and Jing Xue reached the summit between
Four and five in the afternoon. There were 16 hours of ascension followed
Later of a long descent. For now, there has only been confirmation
Of the summit, carried out through social networks by Mingma himself
Gyalje.

First peaks since 2014

With these summits, the K2 closes a record of three years without
Summits, since the previous ones go back to 2014. In fact, of the last nine
Seasons (since 2009), its summit has only been reached in three
Normal route (2012, 2014 and 2017; in addition, the group of Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Achieved by the northern slope in 2011). In the other six summers nobody was able
To climb. In addition, some of those who tried it suffered accidents that
Ended with their lives as Fredrik Ericsson in 2010 and Marty and
Denali Schmidt
in 2013.

                



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Watch Sean McColl in Briancon World Cup Finals


Sean McColl is hot off his third-place finish at The World Games and is heading into Finals at the Briancon World Cup.

Climbing strong in Qualifications and Semis, McColl is moving forward in seventh place. In 2016, McColl finished in third place in Briancon.

Other Canadians who made the trip include: Elan Jonas McRae finished in 25th, Kyle Murdoch in 61st, Becca Frangos in 40th and Elina Avramova in 57th. Watch Finals below.

Finals Climbers Male/Female:
1. Romain Desgranges (FRA) / Janja Garnbret (SLO)
2. Seba Halenke (GER) / Jain Kim (KOR)
3. Masahiro Higuchi (JPN) / Anak Verhoeven (BEL)
4. Marcello Bombardi (ITA) / Jess Pilz (AUT)
5. Sean Bailey (USA) / Mina Markovic (SLO)
6. Sean McColl (CAN) / Julia Chanourdie (FRA)
7. Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA) / Margo Hayes (USA)
8. Loic Shimatani (JPN) / Salmoe Romain (FRA)

Pre-comp report from IFSC: Briançon has been gathering top Lead athletes for the IFSC World Cup since 2011, and several thousand fans regularly attend finals. This week the commune in southeast France welcomes a new talented group of The World Games champions, IFSC World Cup season champions and rising stars.

Keiichiro Korenaga of Japan excelled in Wroclaw, claiming a Gold medal at The World Games amongst the most elite Lead athletes. Sean McColl of Canada joined him on the podium and will also compete in Briançon.

Romain Desgranges just missed out on a medal at Wroclaw and the first IFSC World Cup in France this year at Chamonix, but he will again have the support of his home crowd this week.

For the women, Anak Verhoeven of Belgium has been climbing well all season, finishing among the top athletes at every Lead event. She will again be in the spotlight in Briançon after winning Gold at Wroclaw. Also follow the results of Julia Chanourdie, competing at home like Desgranges. She won a Bronze medal at The World Games and is a strong contender for another podium.

Reigning season champions Janja Garnbret and Domen Skofic were in control last year in Briançon, bringing two Gold medals back to Slovenia. Garnbret has yet to lose an IFSC Lead World Cup in 2017, and Skofic will look to rebound after missing finals at Chamonix. Their teammate Mina Markovic missed Briançon last year and should be among the top finishers this year.

A number of rising stars will be competing on Friday. Ukranian Fedir Samoilov set the bar high at Villars with his first IFSC World Cup podium, and he will look to rebound after an early fall in Chamonix semi-finals. Also falling early was Margo Hayes of the USA, who will climb alongside teammates Brooke Raboutou and Kai Lightner.

For France, Nolwenn Arc has not yet qualified for finals, but she was on the cusp at both Chamonix and Villars. Hannah Schubert of Austria broke the barrier for the first time at Villars and will look to repeat the feat in Briançon. Also track the progress of Giorgio Bendazzoli of Italy. The 18-year-old world youth champion will be competing at his first IFSC World Cup this season.



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