Rad Footage of Big Rockies Goat and Remote Ice


Canadian Rockies climbing guide Kris Irwin was gearing up at the base of Club Tropicana in Paradise Valley near Lake Louise when he captured a big mountain goat on video.

He and photographer Bryce Brown then made a direct mixed start to Club Tropicana. But before they started up, a big mountain goat (Oreamnos americanus), also known as the Rocky Mountain goat, stopped by to say hello.

It’s a sure-footed climber commonly seen on cliffs and ice but hard to get close to.

“We were on our way to check out The Tease when we noticed this cool looking line on the southeast face of Mount Sheol,” said Irwin.

“It currently goes at a thin M4 WI4 and is worth the over-two-hour ski approach. Bring a single rack to 3”, a few pitons, 12 alpine draws, set of screws for a 55-metre ice pitch and two 60-metre ropes.

They left a v-thread at the top of the third pitch, cord around a tree at the top of the second pitch and two nuts at the top of the first pitch. Approach on skis recommended and bring avalanche gear.

There has been a lot of ice action in the Rockies of late, including a new pitch to Buddha Nature in Storm Creek by Ian Welsted and Jonny Simms. The north face of Mount Cromwell was attempted and the rarely-formed Arterial Spurt is being lapped. A good fall in the Rockies.



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Results from 2018 Asian Championships in Japan


The annual Asian Championships took place this year from Nov. 7 to 11 in Kurayoshi, Japan, and athletes from Indonesia and Japan climbed to all but four spots on the Bouldering, Lead, Speed and Combined podiums. The following is the IFSC press release.

Youth stars dominated in Bouldering finals on Friday. Five of the top six athletes were under 20 years old, including winners Futaba Ito and Meichi Narasaki of Japan. Ito edged compatriot Nanako Kura by top attempts and bested a stacked field of Japanese finalists which included Saki Kikuchi in 3rd place, IFSC World Cup Bouldering season champion Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi.

Narasaki, the only finalist who completed four tops, also prevailed among IFSC World Cup standouts and joined teammate Keita Watabe and recent Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018 finalist YuFei Pan of China on the men’s podium. Click here to watch highlights of Bouldering finals on OlympicChannel.com, which featured Ito in the Olympic Channel original series Going Olympic: Tokyo 2020.

Indonesian athletes equally impressed on the Speed wall the following day, occupying five of the top six spots like Japan did in Bouldering. The men’s big final was nearly too close to call, with Alfian Muhammad and Sabri Sabri slapping the finishing pad atop the 15-metre Speed climbing wall at the same moment.

Muhammad gained the victory by three thousandths of a second on the fastest time of the round (5.833 seconds), and Aspar Jaelolo raced past Veddriq Leonardo in a close small final. Sari Agustina kept a steady pace throughout the women’s Speed final and beat YiLing Song of China in the final race.

Aries Susanti Rahayu scored the fastest time of the round (7.816 seconds) but settled for 3rd place after committing a false start in the semi-final, and Iqomah Nurul placed 4th.

On the Lead wall, Jain Kim topped four routes in Kurayoshi and earned a victory for Korea. Noguchi fell just shy of the top in finals and completed tops in every other round, and Mei Kotake joined them on the women’s podium. Countback to semi-finals separated a three-way tie in the men’s Lead final.

Kokoro Fujii’s top in semi-finals handed him the win, followed by Hidemasa Nishida and Tomoaki Takata. Click here to watch Kim rise to the top and the thrilling Speed finish in the Olympic Channel video highlights.

In the Combined finals on Sunday, Japan concluded the Asian Championships by placing five more athletes on the podium as in Lead and Bouldering. After nonstop Bouldering, Lead and Speed climbing between the six top men and women, Noguchi and Narasaki stood tallest and joined arms with Nonaka and Rei Sugimoto, Ito and Pan.



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Allison Vest Comes Second At Boulderfest North in Minneapolis


Boulderfest North took place this weekend at Minneapolis Bouldering Project (MBP). This was the gym’s first big comp held as a community event in the style of its sister Bouldering Project gyms in Austin and Seattle.

For the third time, head route setters from each gym – Chad Walker (SBP), Christine Deyo (ABP) and Canadian transplant Ayo Sopeju (MBP) – teamed up with a crew to set a final round of creative and tough boulders to challenge the top-tier athletes who showed up to compete.

The Setters

Canada’s Allison Vest threw down in a very strong field of women, including seasoned competitor Alex Johnson and Kyra Condie, who finished 13th overall on the 2018 IFSC World Cup bouldering circuit. Not to mention Michaela Kiersch, who won the previous Bouldering Project comp in Seattle last month.

Kiersch took the top spot once again on Saturday; she was the only competitor to finish two problems. The rest of the women all had one top, so ranking was determined by count backs and attempts. Vest’s flash of boulder four landed her in second place and Abigail York, who also flashed the problem, came third. Condie and Johnson ended up in a very close 4th and 5th respectively. Interestingly, if the scoring had counted bonuses (zones) before attempts to top, as per the new IFSC rules, the final ranking would have been shuffled quite a bit.

For the men, Drew Ruana won the event with two tops, and the only send of problem three. Sean Bailey finished second with some impressive climbing, and Noah Ridge rounded out the podium in third. The problems were a tiny bit hard, but the climbing was still excellent.

And according to emcee Pete Woods, the Minneapolis crowd “was the best yet… They were amazing. Stayed involved the whole time… there was close to 500 people watching!”

Men’s Podium

Final Results Men/Women
Drew Ruana/Michaela Kiersch
Sean Bailey/Allison Vest
Noah Ridge/Abigail York
Weijing Tilleskjor/Kyra Condie
Kyle Struthers/Alex Johnson



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The Ultimate Crack Climbers’ Hangboard


The Rockstone Adjustable Crack Board is the ultimate hangboard for crack climbers.

The board allows you to train finger, hand and fist jams with full body weight.

“We conducting a Presale of our Crack Board and if you’re interested then contact us via email info@rockstonegear.com and you will get extra discount for Crack Board.”

Crack Board



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Reports of Chipping and Torching in Squamish


There are reports of chipping and torching going on in the Squamish boulders and locals aren’t happy.

Chipping is when climbers use chisels or drills to enhance a hold. Torching is when climbers use blow torches to dry damp/wet holds for better friction.

For those who don’t know, chipping and torching rock climbs, boulders and projects is an absolute no.

This is the first confirmed boulder that we know of in Squamish to be chipped. Hopefully it is the last… On a recent trip, Randy Puro revisited this old project of his and mentioned it felt different, that perhaps it had been chipped. It was confirmed by some locals and is obviously as seen in the photo. One of the most beautiful, unclimbed lines, has been altered to fix the needs of some turd without vision, too weak to send it as it was. I doubt if the person responsible for this act will step forth but for the record, 99% of the climbing community does not condone chipping. Chipping is NOT ok. Vandalism in a provincial park is NOT ok. Chipping is vandalism. This action is a complete disrespect to the rock, the forest and to those trying it. What has come of climbing and the respect we should have on the outdoors? I had hoped we moved past this sort of act. Leaving tick marks and garbage is one thing but this..? This beauty should have been left as it was. For those strong enough to do it. For those with vision. FYI- this problem is the project on the Octagon boulder, to the right of beyond 4 and Shelter. Word is, Shelter might also have been altered. Yet to be confirmed. If anyone has information on this, please come forth. It is safe to assume it was done by someone strong enough to even entertain climbing it, which really narrows it down… 🤬 @randypuro . . #chippedrock #notokay #boulderingethics #itspossible #project #squamishboulders #squamishbouldering #squeezejob #chipped #dreamtheimpossiblepossible #climbing #squamishclimbing #boulderingproject #oneday #getstronger #protect #granite #rock #beautifulrock @metoliusclimbing @grippedmagazine @rockrespect

A post shared by thomasina pidgeon (@thomopijon) on

Bill Ramsey wrote an article in 2012 called Making the Grade, which digs into the deeper philosophy of chipping. He notes that some of the world’s most classic routes have been chipped, such as Just Do It 5.14c (America’s hardest route at the time) in Smith Rock and The Rose and the Vampire in France (the world’s first 5.13d).

In it, he says, ” The problem with this argument is that it has nothing to do with the issue. Of course, most things done badly are bad. But that has nothing to do with the propriety of the practice done responsibly. Note that few people think the existence of bad bolting entails the need to abolish all bolting.

“Route preparers who engage in irresponsible and gratuitous manufacturing await the same condemnation as those who engage in irresponsible and gratuitous bolting. Because my argument is a defense of the limited sort of manufacturing described above, the possibility of other kinds of manufacturing is largely irrelevant. Remember that irresponsible manufacturing sometimes occurs now; our current condemnation hasn’t prevented it from happening.”

Chipping holds is not accepted in Squamish and those climbers who are doing it should stop. The granite in the area is a finite resource and once a problem is chipped, it’s damaged forever.



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How to be the Coolest Climber at the Gym


In between wicked sends and sick gains at the gym, nothing says, “I’m awesome and I care about the people around me” like ol’ fashioned etiquette.

Whether you’re new to the gym and don’t want to look like a new climber or are an experienced plastic crusher, watch this video.

Some great tips for rope climbers, belayers and boulderers to help make you the best, most awesome person at the gym.

Do’s and Don’ts of Gym Climbing



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A block sector of Zillertal, at risk for a quarry


 

THE CLIMBERS ARE ORGANIZED

One of the most representative climbing areas in Austria, with 180 blocks and 320 tracks at 70 km from Innsbruck, is under threat. The climbing community has organized its defense through an online initiative that already has thousands of adhesions.

 

The alarm went off on Thursday, November 8, when the local newspaper Tiroler Tageszeitung published an article in which it reported that next week the authorities are planning to decide on the application for ] expansion of a quarry dedicated to block mining located in Zillertal . Its objective is to add new areas to the farm, among them the idyllic forest of Zillergrund one of the main climbing areas of Zillertal where some 180 blocks and 320 tracks are accumulated.

The response of the local climbing community, warned by those responsible for the sports climbing section of the Österreichischen Alpenverein (Alpine Club of Austria), was not long in coming. On the same Friday, November 9, a popular initiative was launched to capture online signatures against the project. In the three days it has been in force, almost 9,000 people have already joined it in Austria and the rest of the world .

Renowned accessions

The accessions of renowned climbers, with many followers in their social networks, have not been lacking either. The recent champion of the World Cup of Difficulty, Jakob Schubert asked for help by contributing a photograph of him in the Zillergrund forest in 2007: "It may have been one of the first block experiences in rock of my life. A very nice 7C that I hope will be there forever ".

His compatriot, four times winner of the World Cup of Boulder, Anna Stöhr also added to the request through his social networks: "When I was young, I used to pass all on weekends in Zillergrund, and that's how my love for climbing and nature developed. If the excavated area expands, the entire boulder area of ​​the Zillergrund forest will be destroyed forever! ". So has another Austrian five-time World Cup champion like Kilian Fischhuber from Yosemite.

Even climbers of other nationalities have posted support messages sharing their experiences in the area. The Finnish Nalle Hukkataival said: "I have really enjoyed climbing here and I would hate to see it fall into the hands of a mining company to be destroyed." Also the German Alex Megos has wanted to add to the international appeal, explaining that "I have only been to Zillertal once, but I was amazed by the beauty of the area" … where by the way he made the first repetition of his way harder, Companion of change 9a +, in the Jagdgründe sector.

History repeats itself

The area of ​​ Zillertal already lost part of its sectors about ten years ago for the same reasons, despite the opposition of the climbers. In 2008, Zillertal had just been the destination of a Roc Trip by Petzl, but neither that nor the appearance on national television of local climbers as prestigious as David Lama or Anna Stöhr managed to stop the excavations. In those lost sectors for climbing, "today you can see the wounds in nature, which are visited daily by dozens of trucks and where the construction machinery is spinning" lament the Stone Monkeys , local organization of climbers who led that protest.

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